1953 Flathead into '36 Slant-back

[rbtaylor]

I just bought a 1953 EAB flathead Ford with a 3-speed manual tranny and R10 overdrive. I am getting ready to replace the 283 SBC and factory Ford 3-speed that is currently in my '36 Tudor Sedan. I have a couple of questions that maybe some of you guys will help me with:

1) Should I drop-in this tranny/OD combo, or sell it and put in a T5 set-up?
2) I just bought a two carburetor set-up with an Offerhauser intake and two Holley 94 carbs. The guy disassembled the carbs from the intake for shipping and I am not sure if the primary carb should go to the front of the engine, or nearer to the fuel pump. Any suggestions as to which way is correct?
3) The engine has been converted to 12V but still has the points/condenser ignition system. I am going to install a Pertronix electronic ignition system. Do I need a ballast resistor when after installing the Pertronix?

I appreciate any information that you can provide.

Robert

[39topless]

you finally came to your senses. Good luck on your project.

[rbtaylor]

[38 coupe]

Originally Posted by rbtaylor

1) Should I drop-in this tranny/OD combo, or sell it and put in a T5 set-up?
Neither. The 53 overdrive is an open drive transmission that is too long to fit into your car. The T5 is also an open drive transmission that is too long to fit into your car. To fit either of these you have to hack the center of your frame. If you are determined to get overdrive then a Mitchell unit requires much less surgery to your car to install. With a Mitchell you have to add clearance to your floor, typically in the truck or under the back seat.

2) I just bought a two carburetor set-up with an Offerhauser intake and two Holley 94 carbs. The guy disassembled the carbs from the intake for shipping and I am not sure if the primary carb should go to the front of the engine, or nearer to the fuel pump. Any suggestions as to which way is correct?
Use both carburetors with a straight linkage. On a flathead progressive linkage is for three carburetors.

3) The engine has been converted to 12V but still has the points/condenser ignition system. I am going to install a Pertronix electronic ignition system. Do I need a ballast resistor when after installing the Pertronix?
No. You do need to make sure your coil is compatible with the Pertronix unit. More importantly you need to run a non stock distributor since you are going dual carb. The stock 8BA distributor works great with a single stock carburetor and a stock camshaft. If you change either of those to then you need a distributor with a mechanical advance.

Others here will have more advice.

[uncle buck]

What are your plans for a cooling fan? The original setup used a fan bolted to the generator pulley

[rbtaylor]

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i haven't got that far yet. I just got the flathead running yesterday afternoon. I need to figure out how the engine will sit in the frame to understand if the fan will have fitment issues.

[rbtaylor]

Thanks "38 coupe" for the point by point response.

[rotorwrench]

I don't know if you are familiar with the Ford-Tremec T170 RTS transmission or not. They were used in a number of straight 6 and small block V8 appliactions for the early to mid 80s F150 pickups. This 3-speed with overdrive can be modified to work with the torque tube closed drive but the torque tube & shaft usually have to be shortened. There are now adapters available and it gives you a fully synchronized top shift similar the OEM but with 4-speed ratios in forward motion.

The old electric overdrives were all designed for open drive unless a person uses one of the long Lincoln type boxes but most all of them are side shift. They can be successfully installed but a lot of modifications have to be done depending on the type of suspension used, closed or open drive, and what type of shifter arrangement you want.

[rbtaylor]

I am installing a Ford 9" in the rear end, so an open tranny is OK.

[Ol' Ron]

A 9" is quit heavy, jMO. as for the ignition a stock distributor worn't work with dual carbs. The dual carbs are usually run together. Remember, tuning can be a bit*h

[Brian]

As much as I love early V8's, I cannot understand what you're trying to achieve here- You've got a [expletive] engine in a 36, which is bolted to a stock transmission? And you wanna put a late model flathead into it [which is not a direct bolt in- lotta work, and with less power], and change the transmission and rear end? For what? And then add an o/d? Good luck!! Hope you're happy with the result, which I doubt you'll achieve. Sorry to be so negative.

[rbtaylor]

Brian,
Maybe I am on the wrong forum. I am not trying to build a 100 point restoration. The car can never be put back to it's original condition because the flathead that it was born with is long dead and buried. My uncle put the 283 engine in it in 1965. He used the Chevy engine because it's installation did not necessitate cutting of the firewall.

I am building a streetrod. I will put this flathead into the car with only minor modifications now, and will supe-it-up after I get the rest of the car finished. The dual two-barrel set-up will be in the car for the next couple of years while I am saving the funds to build what I ultimately want. The engine will be supercharged with a target of 275-300HP, but for now I just need it to be drivable.

The Ford 9" rear end is being installed to handle the HP of the engine after it is built to it's final specification. I will likely change the transmission to a T5 set-up.

If I had the money, I would do everything at once, but I am 51 years old with two kids that I still support. Doubt it if you like, but I will get there...

[19Fordy]

Mr. Taylor, Install an 8 inch rear. it's lighter, less bulky, looks better and will handle any HP your flatty will produce. If you do go with a 9 in. stay away from Lincoln Versaille rear.

[rbtaylor]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Mr. Taylor, Install an 8 inch rear. it's lighter, less bulky, looks better and will handle any HP your flatty will produce. If you do go with a 9 in. stay away from Lincoln Versaille rear.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've already got a Ford 9" cut down to the correct width.

[weemark]

the std rear end will handle all the power you want to throw at it with a modified flathead. a 9" rear axle is overkill for a built flathead.

[rbtaylor]

Since reading "38 Coupe's" reposes, I have done a lot of research on running the dual Holley 94 carburetors with the stock distributor. I was about to buy a mechanical advance set-up, but then I found this article:

http://www.flatheadv8.org/286holley.htm

In reading this, it seems to me that the vacuum advance system can work fine. Any thoughts on this?

Robert

[JSeery]

Well, I read the link and I'm not sure what he is talking about as far as the vac distributor goes. Really don't think he knows what he is talking about, the original distributor requires a specific carb calibrated to it. There is a big difference between being able to get it to run and getting it to run correctly. But forgetting all of that why mess with it, get a modified replacement distributor that will provide the proper advance curve (see Bubba's information).

As far as the transmission goes it depends on where you what to end up. I am a T5 fan so that is the way I would go for a lot of reasons.

[tubman]

If you just want to get it running and driving while you collect parts and plan for the eventual build, why not get a '49 to early '51 Nerc bellhousing and keep the transmission that's in the car now for a while? If it stood up to the SBC, it should be fine for the later flatty. Actually, the internals of the two transmissions are quit similar. Trying to get the later transmission to fit through the X-member is not a simple chore, even without the OD. Merc bellhousings aren't that hard to find; I have several myself. An early '50's truck bellhousing (cast) would work as well. Just make sure you get the proper starter mounting plate that matches the transmission. I think a while with a setup like I am suggesting will get you more familiar with the car and help you decide what you really want to do. You can figure out what you want to do with brakes and steering etc. which will end up with a more satisfyingt build.

Using the later bellhousing and a set of later truck pumps make this almost a bolt in. One last comment; I can't see enough of your manifold to be sure, but it may be a "super" with widely spaced carbs. If it is, don't even think about progressive carb linkage. You'll also probably need an alternative way to mount your generator.

[36tudordeluxe]

Robert, what you're proposing to do is very similar to what I've done. I took the the advice of Ol'Ron and others on this forum and went with the Ford 8" and never regretted it. If you can find a '75-'80 unit out of a Ford Granada/Monarch you won't have to change the location of the spring pads and the overall width (58" flange to flange) is just right with reversed rims and 3.25" offset.

[tub1]

I will probally be banned after this but get it on the road with the old junker engine that's in it and enjoy the car until you can build it the way you would like, for heavens sake a garbage truck engine is better in the car than having it waiting in a shed till the day a flathead can be installed I have cars both flathead and other brand powered but if I was lucky enough to have a car my uncle built when I was a baby id leave it the way he did it