The Ford Barn

37 truck · 12-29-2018, 02:53 PM

I have a 1940 flathead that I am putting Edelbrock block letter aluminum heads on. I have a set of new studs from Speedway that are Offenhauser brand. Do you install them all the way down to the point that the shank stops them? What stop leak is recommended? I have never installed new studs before, so want to do it right.

Bored&Stroked · 12-29-2018, 04:04 PM

Here is what I do:

1) Buy a 'thread chaser' 7/16 NC tap: This will not cut the threads any deeper - but will clean them out. Do Not use a normal 7/16 tap - it will ruin the threads and cause a different 'fit' than the factory and contribute to sealing issues:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0004/overview/

2) Buy ARP Teflon Stud Sealer: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...AaAiIkEALw_wcB

3) PTFE Sealer: Coat the coarse/bottom threads with the PTFE sealer - hand tighten them into the block. If you can't quite do it by hand, then just double-nut them and gently run them down until they just stop (due to the non-threaded area). DO NOT tighten them into the block!

4) Anti-Seize: Liberally coat the sides of the studs with anti-seize. I always have a bunch of Permatex anti-seize on hand (silver gunk) and I put a lot of it on the sides of the studs. This really helps you get the heads BACK OFF the engine at a later date!

5) Thread Lubricant: Use ARP Thread Lubricant for the top fine-threaded ends. This helps ensure that you receive accurate torque readings on the fine threads.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...waAv7GEALw_wcB

6) PTFE Setup: Don't fill it with water and start it for at least a day. Also, use just WATER when you first start the engine - do the first heat cycles and torque operations with water. You can change to an anti-freeze coolant mixture after you've done the retorque and heat cycle work.

When using the PTFE, it normally needs to 'set up' for a bit - so don't just throw it together, put water in it and start it. I'd put the studs in one day, do the rest of the assembly work and then put water in it and start it at least a day later.

You may still see a couple studs "weap" a bit - this is common. Re-torque the studs a couple times and heat cycle the engine a few times and see if they magically seal (which is what usually happens).

Ronnieroadster · 12-29-2018, 04:17 PM

Those head studs are not the greatest we have found the threads are not straight and they are so loose in the block threaded holes its difficult to near impossible to get them to not leak. They appear to be are poor quality off shore made. A few guys I know tried those studs they felt better not spending the extra money for quality ARP studs. Well after the problems they experienced with those Offy brand studs they finally scraped them and went with ARP. Trying to save money actually cost more in the end. Good luck.

Bored&Stroked · 12-29-2018, 04:21 PM

Personally, I do agree with Ronnie - I've found just about all the supposed 'Grade 8' head stud kits to be of poor quality. I've had problems torquing the heads - too much stud stretch and also washer deformation - and leaks as noted. As Ron said - while they are expensive, paying the extra money for ARP studs, washers and nuts is worth it. I run only ARP studs on all my flathead builds.

barnfind08 · 12-29-2018, 04:32 PM

How come nobody ever mentions the ford nos studs?

Bored&Stroked · 12-29-2018, 04:38 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by barnfind08

How come nobody ever mentions the ford nos studs?

Probably because I've never had a set!

I would have no problem running original/NOS Ford stuff. One thing to note - depending on the aftermarket heads, the lower row of stock studs may NOT be long enough.

If I'm correct, the Block Letter Edelbrock heads need longer studs on the bottom . . . but as I'm away from home, can't remember what length?

Ol' Ron · 12-29-2018, 08:42 PM

The right studs have only 8/19 threads on the course side. I use some gunk used in steam pipes that never hardens, torque to 10/15 lbs. However I stopped usng studs 40 years ago. Torque to 45/50 lbs thru 3 heat cycles. Alum or cast iron heads.

Ronnieroadster · 12-29-2018, 10:20 PM

If anyone is hesitant to using the inferior studs and hardware Allensfasteners.com is where I buy any ARP studs and related hardware I need the prices are very reasonable compared to everyone else selling ARP products hes an authorized dealer for the hardware. Any of my race flatheads and numerous builds for others all use hardware from Allens site. Using studs eliminates the fear of pulling a thread out of these old castings. Like Dale mentioned above its really the best way to this. Of course if NOS original studs could be found those would work perfectly for the original posters project.
Ronnieroadster

Charlie ny · 12-29-2018, 11:14 PM

I have always had great goods from Speedway but the studs they sell are not right by a long stretch. Poor quality threads on both ends AND the threads are not on the same center line as the body of the stud. These studs actually wobble as you install them and good luck trying to get a head installed or removed.

Arp studs are the gold standard, but for my money you cannot beat studs from Roy Nacewicz. Roy rolls threads on his stud as does ARP, Speedways appear to be
chased (cut) which is a no no.
Be sure to order the lengths required....double check this.
Charlie ny

37 truck · 12-30-2018, 11:23 AM

Thanks for the replies, I think the ARP studs sound like the way to go. ARP 151-4101 head stud kit, 1938-48 Ford Flathead for Edelbrock heads. Speedway wants $517.99 for this set, free shipping, and acorn nut covers. That seems really expensive! I'll look around.

Bored&Stroked · 12-30-2018, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 37 truck

Thanks for the replies, I think the ARP studs sound like the way to go. ARP 151-4101 head stud kit, 1938-48 Ford Flathead for Edelbrock heads. Speedway wants $517.99 for this set, free shipping, and acorn nut covers. That seems really expensive! I'll look around.

Yes - this is the priciest option around. BUT - they are not acorn nut covers, they are high quality, high strength stainless acorns (solid machined material).

These contribute to the overall cost the most. You surely don't need these - but they are cool looking and don't corrode.

Bored&Stroked · 12-30-2018, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

Arp studs are the gold standard, but for my money you cannot beat studs from Roy Nacewicz. Roy rolls threads on his stud as does ARP, Speedways appear to be chased (cut) which is a no no.

Yes - I forgot about Roy . . . he is one solid dude, has great products and fantastic service. I'd not hesitate to use his stuff on any non-race type engine.

lotsagas4u · 12-30-2018, 07:40 PM

Just call Fred at Southside Obsolete and get the NOS stuff.

12-29-2018, 02:53 PM	#1
37 truck Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Omak, Washington Posts: 207	Installing Head studs I have a 1940 flathead that I am putting Edelbrock block letter aluminum heads on. I have a set of new studs from Speedway that are Offenhauser brand. Do you install them all the way down to the point that the shank stops them? What stop leak is recommended? I have never installed new studs before, so want to do it right.

12-29-2018, 04:04 PM	#2
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,064	Re: Installing Head studs Here is what I do: 1) Buy a 'thread chaser' 7/16 NC tap: This will not cut the threads any deeper - but will clean them out. Do Not use a normal 7/16 tap - it will ruin the threads and cause a different 'fit' than the factory and contribute to sealing issues: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0004/overview/ 2) Buy ARP Teflon Stud Sealer: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...AaAiIkEALw_wcB 3) PTFE Sealer: Coat the coarse/bottom threads with the PTFE sealer - hand tighten them into the block. If you can't quite do it by hand, then just double-nut them and gently run them down until they just stop (due to the non-threaded area). DO NOT tighten them into the block! 4) Anti-Seize: Liberally coat the sides of the studs with anti-seize. I always have a bunch of Permatex anti-seize on hand (silver gunk) and I put a lot of it on the sides of the studs. This really helps you get the heads BACK OFF the engine at a later date! 5) Thread Lubricant: Use ARP Thread Lubricant for the top fine-threaded ends. This helps ensure that you receive accurate torque readings on the fine threads. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...waAv7GEALw_wcB 6) PTFE Setup: Don't fill it with water and start it for at least a day. Also, use just WATER when you first start the engine - do the first heat cycles and torque operations with water. You can change to an anti-freeze coolant mixture after you've done the retorque and heat cycle work. When using the PTFE, it normally needs to 'set up' for a bit - so don't just throw it together, put water in it and start it. I'd put the studs in one day, do the rest of the assembly work and then put water in it and start it at least a day later. You may still see a couple studs "weap" a bit - this is common. Re-torque the studs a couple times and heat cycle the engine a few times and see if they magically seal (which is what usually happens). Last edited by Bored&Stroked; 12-29-2018 at 04:22 PM.

12-29-2018, 04:17 PM	#3
Ronnieroadster Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: East Coast in CT Posts: 1,528	Re: Installing Head studs Those head studs are not the greatest we have found the threads are not straight and they are so loose in the block threaded holes its difficult to near impossible to get them to not leak. They appear to be are poor quality off shore made. A few guys I know tried those studs they felt better not spending the extra money for quality ARP studs. Well after the problems they experienced with those Offy brand studs they finally scraped them and went with ARP. Trying to save money actually cost more in the end. Good luck. __________________ I use the F word a lot no not that word these words Flathead , Focus and Finish. "Life Member of the Bonneville 200 MPH Club using a Ford Flathead block" Owner , Builder, Driver of the First Ford Flathead bodied roadster to run 200 MPH Record July 13, 2018 LTA timing association 200.921 in one and a half miles burning gasoline. First ever gas burning Ford flathead powered roadster to run 200 MPH at Bonneville Salt Flats setting the record August 7th 2021 at 205.744 MPH

12-29-2018, 04:21 PM	#4
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,064	Re: Installing Head studs Personally, I do agree with Ronnie - I've found just about all the supposed 'Grade 8' head stud kits to be of poor quality. I've had problems torquing the heads - too much stud stretch and also washer deformation - and leaks as noted. As Ron said - while they are expensive, paying the extra money for ARP studs, washers and nuts is worth it. I run only ARP studs on all my flathead builds.

12-29-2018, 04:32 PM	#5
barnfind08 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 893	Re: Installing Head studs How come nobody ever mentions the ford nos studs?

12-29-2018, 08:42 PM	#7
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,859	Re: Installing Head studs The right studs have only 8/19 threads on the course side. I use some gunk used in steam pipes that never hardens, torque to 10/15 lbs. However I stopped usng studs 40 years ago. Torque to 45/50 lbs thru 3 heat cycles. Alum or cast iron heads.

12-29-2018, 10:20 PM	#8
Ronnieroadster Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: East Coast in CT Posts: 1,528	Re: Installing Head studs If anyone is hesitant to using the inferior studs and hardware Allensfasteners.com is where I buy any ARP studs and related hardware I need the prices are very reasonable compared to everyone else selling ARP products hes an authorized dealer for the hardware. Any of my race flatheads and numerous builds for others all use hardware from Allens site. Using studs eliminates the fear of pulling a thread out of these old castings. Like Dale mentioned above its really the best way to this. Of course if NOS original studs could be found those would work perfectly for the original posters project. Ronnieroadster __________________ I use the F word a lot no not that word these words Flathead , Focus and Finish. "Life Member of the Bonneville 200 MPH Club using a Ford Flathead block" Owner , Builder, Driver of the First Ford Flathead bodied roadster to run 200 MPH Record July 13, 2018 LTA timing association 200.921 in one and a half miles burning gasoline. First ever gas burning Ford flathead powered roadster to run 200 MPH at Bonneville Salt Flats setting the record August 7th 2021 at 205.744 MPH

12-29-2018, 11:14 PM	#9
Charlie ny BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,019	Re: Installing Head studs I have always had great goods from Speedway but the studs they sell are not right by a long stretch. Poor quality threads on both ends AND the threads are not on the same center line as the body of the stud. These studs actually wobble as you install them and good luck trying to get a head installed or removed. Arp studs are the gold standard, but for my money you cannot beat studs from Roy Nacewicz. Roy rolls threads on his stud as does ARP, Speedways appear to be chased (cut) which is a no no. Be sure to order the lengths required....double check this. Charlie ny

12-30-2018, 11:23 AM	#10
37 truck Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Omak, Washington Posts: 207	Re: Installing Head studs Thanks for the replies, I think the ARP studs sound like the way to go. ARP 151-4101 head stud kit, 1938-48 Ford Flathead for Edelbrock heads. Speedway wants $517.99 for this set, free shipping, and acorn nut covers. That seems really expensive! I'll look around.

12-30-2018, 07:40 PM	#13
lotsagas4u Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Plainview, Texas Posts: 757	Re: Installing Head studs Just call Fred at Southside Obsolete and get the NOS stuff.