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Old 04-24-2019, 08:05 PM   #61
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:02 AM   #62
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A word of caution, have the rods cleaned and the wrist pin bushing checked for ware. If over .0015" have them replaced. Now this can be a problem because some shops don't have the proper tools to do this because the bushing have to be waged into the rods. before honing. Fortunately most of the time they don't have to be replaced. Some people just do it because they think it a good idea.
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Old 04-25-2019, 02:37 PM   #63
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If you were able to get that oil pump out without much effort, consider yourself lucky! The real fun comes when you start taking the valves out, but yours may be easy. I had to rent a special tool to remove the cam bearings but that wasn't difficult. Highly recommend thermal cleaning the bare block once you get it all torn down. Good Luck!
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:13 PM   #64
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If you were able to get that oil pump out without much effort, consider yourself lucky! The real fun comes when you start taking the valves out, but yours may be easy. I had to rent a special tool to remove the cam bearings but that wasn't difficult. Highly recommend thermal cleaning the bare block once you get it all torn down. Good Luck!


Great to know. The pump came out very easily. Unbolted it, a little persuasion with the rubber mallet, and it wiggles right out.


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Old 04-25-2019, 03:13 PM   #65
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A word of caution, have the rods cleaned and the wrist pin bushing checked for ware. If over .0015" have them replaced. Now this can be a problem because some shops don't have the proper tools to do this because the bushing have to be waged into the rods. before honing. Fortunately most of the time they don't have to be replaced. Some people just do it because they think it a good idea.


Roger that, thanks.

Iím on a job in Cali right now but hope to get home for the weekend and keep wrenching


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Old 04-26-2019, 02:54 PM   #66
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Roger that, thanks.

Iím on a job in Cali right now but hope to get home for the weekend and keep wrenching


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If in California, try to contact Vern Tardel or San Fran Flatheads.

They were selling NOS french rods for real reasonable money. They are cheaper than getting them reconditioned.

Even if you don't use them, they are good to have. I believe I bought them many years ago when they were selling them for $125 a set. I'm sure the price has gone up since.
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Old 04-26-2019, 03:33 PM   #67
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What exactly is involved in reconditioning rods? Blasting and balancing?


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Old 04-26-2019, 05:32 PM   #68
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What exactly is involved in reconditioning rods? Blasting and balancing?


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A lot of checking for straightness, twist, proper sizing, that type of thing.
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:36 AM   #69
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The good news is: You very rarely find a bad one. When disassembling an engine i keep the rod sets together along with the crank. This way there is no need to have the assembly re balanced for just a piston replacement. Also if you change cranks the rebalancing is much cheaper. The rods come in balanced sets.
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Old 04-27-2019, 12:44 PM   #70
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The good news is: You very rarely find a bad one. When disassembling an engine i keep the rod sets together along with the crank. This way there is no need to have the assembly re balanced for just a piston replacement. Also if you change cranks the rebalancing is much cheaper. The rods come in balanced sets.


Iíve been keeping track of which cylinder they each cane from so Iíll make sure not to mix them up!


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Old 04-27-2019, 02:25 PM   #71
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Victory!




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Old 04-28-2019, 12:14 PM   #72
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Got the drivetrain freed up! Crank is spinning easily by hand and some of the valves are moving. The other appear to be stuck open.

Question. Iím not gonna reuse those valves am I? Any problem with given the open ones a tap with the hammer to free them up?


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Old 04-28-2019, 12:15 PM   #73
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Also, I posted a video on my instagram (@crushedcangarage) but am not sure how to post one here. Any ideas?


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Old 04-28-2019, 01:36 PM   #74
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I almost always cut the valves out of hard to disassemble engines. Makes the whole process easier IMO.
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:31 PM   #75
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There's several ways to get the old valves out and there's lots of threads to search on this forum regarding valve removal. Spray the stuck valves with e 50/50 mix of acetone & transmissions fluid and they might free up. I think most of the time folks end up replacing the valve assemblies (Egge is a good source for these).

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Old 04-28-2019, 11:26 PM   #76
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To post videos here, I have a free account on "YouTube". I post the video there (it is quite easy), and then cut and paste the "YouTube" link into the post I make on here. There are probably other, better ways to do it, but this works for me.
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:43 AM   #77
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https://youtu.be/fOu5in8Smhs

Here ya go!


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Old 04-29-2019, 09:37 AM   #78
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Glad that worked. It looks like you've got a better place to start than most. Now, hope for no cracks.
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:02 AM   #79
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Default Re: First Flathead Build

Hi "sharp", try to find a shop who will use a block-plate to finish-hone the bores, it's fairly important on these Flathead castings!

Also, make certain you have it pressure-tested, do not rely on "magging" only!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Would also strongly recommend some stainless valves and some bronze-lined guides so there will be no valves "hanging" down the road.
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:20 PM   #80
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Hi "sharp", try to find a shop who will use a block-plate to finish-hone the bores, it's fairly important on these Flathead castings!



Also, make certain you have it pressure-tested, do not rely on "magging" only!



Thanks, Gary in N.Y.



P.S. Would also strongly recommend some stainless valves and some bronze-lined guides so there will be no valves "hanging" down the road.


Copy that Gary, thanks. Itís gonna be a mild build with a focus on longevity, so itís tips like that Iím looking for.

Sean


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