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Old 06-25-2012, 11:04 AM   #1
FirstA
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Default How to remove Cadmiun Plating

Some of the new parts I have received are plated and incorrect for judging. Does anyone have a good method for removing the plating. Soaking the parts overnight in a lye solution has been suggested but a nasty process.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:40 AM   #2
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: How to remove Cadmiun Plating

Yes it is toxic and "nasty", ...but using a mild solution of Muratic acid will do the trick in about 30-45 seconds. Fumes are 'rough' so do it in proper ventilation and then neutralize with soap & water.

We actually use two paint mixing cups to do the soaking. What we do is put the solution in the lower cup, and drill several ¼" holes in the bottom of the upper cup. We place the part we want stripped in the upper cup and set the upper cup down inside of the lower cup. The acid will flow up through the holes and surround the part. Then instead of fishing out the part submerged in the acid, just lift out the upper cup and the acid drains out the holes and remains in the lower cup. Then you have easy access to the now stripped part.

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Old 06-25-2012, 04:31 PM   #3
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Default Re: How to remove Cadmiun Plating

Thank you!! You method sounds much better. Now would a castle nut pass for unfinished after coming out of the acid?
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:14 PM   #4
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Default Re: How to remove Cadmiun Plating

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Thank you!! You method sounds much better. Now would a castle nut pass for unfinished after coming out of the acid?
Richard,

Once out of the acid, as Brent says, it must be nutrulized...then buff it real well with a wire wheel on a bench type grinder so you get the very natural look of the metal.

Then there is some stuff that you can put on the unfinished bolt or nut to prevent it from rusting down the line and maintain the unfinished look.

Anybody have a name for that stuff used on unfinished items to keep them from rusting? Brent???

Thanks.

Pluck
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:39 AM   #5
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Default Re: How to remove Cadmiun Plating

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I/we have an old Crockpot that we have Kroil in that we leave on simmer. We drop the stripped parts into the hot oil and "boil" the penetrating oil into the metal pores for an hour or so. It seems to work well if the acid has been neutralized thoroughly.

I do not know of a protective coating that doesn't look phony. I judged Area 4 at Oshkosh and I saw a couple of cars that had some coating on the bare metal parts. Personally I thought it stood out, and although I did not deduct for it, I did think it detracted from the rest of their craftsmanship.
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