Synthetic Oil?

[AnthonyG]

I use 5w-30 Synthetic Oil in my other vehicles & have used for many years & like it. I truly believe I noticed improved performance & what I’ve read it does reduce wear. I haven’t tried it on my 8BA but am considering it. Thoughts?

[GB SISSON]

Thoughts? Oh no an oil thread!

[Jack E/NJ]

I've switched to WalMart's 0W-20 full synthetic in my 21-studder 2 years ago. It had been running 5w-20 synblend since being re-done 10 years ago. Jack E/NJ

[tubman]

After my racing days were done, I found I had 2 cases of Mobil-1 15-50 synthetic left over. I am running it in my '51 with no problems.

[AnthonyG]

Jack E/NJ & tubman, I’m familiar with many of your threads / posts & respect your knowledge. I wanted to get some opinion on it & you both helped solidify it.
Thx

[corvette8n]

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I have used this in my Ford 8N and my ‘41 coupe, to slow down the smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. Overkill maybe but it makes me feel better.

[drolston]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

I have used this in my Ford 8N and my ‘41 coupe, to slow down the smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. Overkill maybe but it makes me feel better.

The Valvoline VR-1 is great break-in oil, as it contains a good amount of zinc, which is needed for flat tappet cams. But it does not contain much detergent, so sludge build up could be a concern if you expect to run the engine for 50,000 miles.

For changes, I now run one quart of VR-1 with four quarts of any good detergent oil.

[19Fordy]

I have been told that synthetic oil is more prone to leaking than conventional oil.
TRUE or FALSE?

[TomT/Williamsburg]

In my experience this is true - over time it finds or makes leaks. Had a 2000 Honda that I ran synthetics oil in. After about 8 months I developed a leak that mechanics said was the rear made n seal - the b expensive proposition. I had read about the sing synthetic oils in older cars and the subsequently leaked. Switched back to conventional oil and the leak went away.

May not work in all instances/situations but it seems to be prone to leak older cars.

[alanwoodieman]

I could pour it in my 40 engine and watch it leak out as it was idling. rear slinger did not sling it back too good, dripped out front seal--switched back to 20w50 kendal and have been using it since

[AnthonyG]

The oldest car I’ve put it in is my ‘67 442, rebuilt 10k miles ago, no leaks. Ran over 130k miles in my ‘98 BMW M, no significant leaks. Also in all my new cars with success. Just put it in the 8BA, guess I’ll find out 🤔😬😁

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

I could pour it in my 40 engine and watch it leak out as it was idling. rear slinger did not sling it back too good, dripped out front seal--switched back to 20w50 kendal and have been using it since

That Kendall oil you are running also has ZDDP in it.

Most of the guys around here that race use it.

[tubman]

I think that synthetic oil is the final exam for the class on installing rope seals.

[mhsprecher]

I use synthetic in my 39 V8. I have not put a ton of miles on it, but seems fine. I also use it in my Model As.

[Aarongriffey]

I use AMSOIL 10-40 with zink in my 51 F1.
Also in my MGB.
I hardly ever have to add, no leaks, no smoke.
At first you may find it will use oil and gradually quit.
It will make your engine run slightly cooler.
I like it because I don’t have to change oil so often.

[ford38v8]

I personally think the reports of leaks or no leaks are personal perception and specific to the observed engine. I don't think anyone can point to a scientific study of the question, unless sponsored by an oil company with sales at stake.

[mfirth]

I've heard that syn is fine in a new build, but to switch from regular to synthetic in an older engine is when leaks can happen. Still like Wolfs Head in an 8BA .......

[Frank Miller]

Ran 8100 miles in 26 days cross country and back. Used half a quart and sent a sample for analysis and the short story was, try 9000 next time. Mobil synthetice extended mileage 10-30. I probably could have run the Walmart brand and gotten the same results.

[Jack E/NJ]

My old 21-studder was a heavy drinker in the olden days. Went through 2 gallon cans of this premium labelled parafin wax about every 2K miles. But never needed changing and reasonably priced at less than $2 at WesternAuto. I don't think it cleaned too well as it lubed though. Jack E/NJ

[39portlander]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Thoughts? Oh no an oil thread!

Thoughts....I love it, I get a good chuckle and grin when we talk about oil. I love the stories, back and forth on this subject. I'm a regular 20W50 guy

Honestly fellas, if we keep the oil level between ADD and Full on the dip stick no matter what it is, I think we will make it to and from our desired destinations.

Hey life is short, get out there and enjoy/drive those old Fords this summer and keep the oil level...Level.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 39portlander

Thoughts....I love it, I get a good chuckle and grin when we talk about oil. I love the stories, back and forth on this subject. I'm a regular 20W50 guy

Honestly fellas, if we keep the oil level between ADD and Full on the dip stick no matter what it is, I think we will make it to and from our desired destinations.

Hey life is short, get out there and enjoy/drive those old Fords this summer and keep the oil level...Level.

This is the most level headed response yet!

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

This is the most level headed response yet!

Would also agree with those comments with addition of oil pressure at the gauge. Driving is always the best part for me down under.
Phil NZ

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Phil Gillespie

Would also agree with those comments with addition of oil pressure at the gauge. Driving is always the best part for me down under.
Phil NZ

Haha. It was trying to do a play on words with comments about the level being on the level.

A working oil pressure gauge is always good too!

[50fordcoupeman]

Phil.............do you have to use a special plug to keep the oil from running out of the dipstick tube since you guys are driving upside down?? :-)

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by 50fordcoupeman

Phil.............do you have to use a special plug to keep the oil from running out of the dipstick tube since you guys are driving upside down?? :-)

Good one! Upon scientific investigation in the southern hemisphere oil drains clockwise as opposed to counter clockwise for those in the northern hemisphere. Hence the gravitational pull sucks oil upwards thereby eliminating the need for special reverse engineered gaskets and such on the lower engine components. Just go flush your toilet to see this phenonem and report back on this thread.

[50fordcoupeman]

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Tom...........you are killin' me!!!

[Phil Gillespie]

Originally Posted by 50fordcoupeman

Phil.............do you have to use a special plug to keep the oil from running out of the dipstick tube since you guys are driving upside down?? :-)

Can I get back to you on that one. Have a wire on dipstick to prevent it coming out so yes probably!!
No wonder need to top oil up so regularly.
Phil NZ

[50fordcoupeman]

Originally Posted by Phil Gillespie

Can I get back to you on that one. Have a wire on dipstick to prevent it coming out so yes probably!!
No wonder need to top oil up so regularly.
Phil NZ

Hahaha............glad you have a sense of humor. The world needs more like you!!

[BobR35]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

I've switched to WalMart's 0W-20 full synthetic in my 21-studder 2 years ago. It had been running 5w-20 synblend since being re-done 10 years ago. Jack E/NJ

Curious! What kind of oil pressure are you getting at full heat? Do you drive it much? Thanks

[BobR35]

Originally Posted by 39portlander

Thoughts....I love it, I get a good chuckle and grin when we talk about oil. I love the stories, back and forth on this subject. I'm a regular 20W50 guy

Honestly fellas, if we keep the oil level between ADD and Full on the dip stick no matter what it is, I think we will make it to and from our desired destinations.

Hey life is short, get out there and enjoy/drive those old Fords this summer and keep the oil level...Level.

I'm with you, 20/50 Castrol is my final choice and very good results. 1/2 qt every 600 miles and change every 1000!

[Jack E/NJ]

20psi fast idle hot. Nearly the same cold. 30psi max revved. Less than 2K/yr. Jack E/NJ

[BobR35]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

20psi fast idle hot. Nearly the same cold. 30psi max revved. Less than 2K/yr. Jack E/NJ

I think those are amazing numbers on that light weight oil. Your engine must be "tight" ! I didn't think you could run that lo wt oil and then still get that kind of pressure. I get high, (35), cold, and it will do 15-20 @ idle in the cooler weather, ie: 70* outside or colder, but in the 80* + it drops significantly, and that's on 20/50! Good for you and thanks for the info.

[Jack E/NJ]

It's still rated a 20W oil hot. So 20psi at a fast idle doesn't seem too unusual. What I find amazing is almost no pressure dependence on temperature. My 64 & 05 vehicles show same behavior. Probably means viscosity doesn't change much with temperature and thus flows nearly as well on a cold startup as it does after it's warmed up. As Martha Stewart might say, that seems like a good thing. 8^) Jack E/NJ

[Holeshot]

motor oil is motor oil

https://youtu.be/oLeXpF1kzDU

[AnthonyG]

Originally Posted by Holeshot

motor oil is motor oil

https://youtu.be/oLeXpF1kzDU

🤔 Gotta think about that! I like the u-tube video & think it bears out, the case for Synthetic! While all Synthetic oils start from ground oil or from natural gas, the mfg process differs significantly technically with regard to its internal component engineering, big differences in use & effect characteristics. So in effect, yes Motor oil is motor oil but Sythetic motor oil is Superman compared to Batman. BTW I like Batman too😂!

[RalphInCA]

The problem with oil threads is that any advantage or disadvantage of one oil over another shows up so slowly that it is darn near impossible to prove any damage (or lack of damage) is due to the oil.

So, for the most part, we are left with gut feelings.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by RalphInCA

The problem with oil threads is tat any advantage or disadvantage of one oil over another shows up so slowly that it is darn near impossible to prove any damage (or lack of damage) is due to the oil.

So, for the most part, we are left with gut feelings.

I have the distinct feeling that my gut would not have difficulty distinguishing between cod liver oil and olive oil.

[tinkirk]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

I use 5w-30 Synthetic Oil in my other vehicles & have used for many years & like it. I truly believe I noticed improved performance & what I’ve read it does reduce wear. I haven’t tried it on my 8BA but am considering it. Thoughts?

Use it you won’t be sorry and,I doubt you will have an issue
Just keep a close eye on the level for awhile tell everything settles in
Just my thoughts on past experiences


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RalphInCA]

Use whatever you want.

The worst we have today is worlds better than anything they had in 1947.

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by RalphInCA

Use whatever you want.

The worst we have today is worlds better than anything they had in 1947.

A lot of great observations here. This one sums it up for me. Have heard about the increased leakage concern. I do believe it reduces engine wear in any engine and that's the decider for me. I'd like to see my flathead last the rest of my life without needing a rebuild. For my next oil change I'm going to use synthetic. I'll use whatever's closest to the original viscosity recommendation though, nothing thinner.



I know, flathead guys don't need no stinking torque wrench, but over the years, I've see a lot oil pan drain plugs stripped when torqued "by feel." Any thoughts on a reasonable torque value to prevent weepage AND protect thread integrity?

[Jack E/NJ]

>>>Any thoughts on a reasonable torque value to prevent weepage AND protect thread integrity?>>>


Snug. Not tight. Weepage is fine with me. Drippage, not so much. 8^)

[Jacques1960]

Rotella and MMO mix

[RalphInCA]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

I personally think the reports of leaks or no leaks are personal perception and specific to the observed engine. I don't think anyone can point to a scientific study of the question, unless sponsored by an oil company with sales at stake.

This is pretty much true.

There are independent studies that prove differences, but the differences are very slight.

[Karl]

Hmm -Apparently according to Einstein Gravitational forces are an illusion. Any force we experience is just a consequence of us travelling through space/time -I need to get out more !!

[joe 1950]

Ah remember the good old days at Western Auto and don’t forget JC Whitney good quality products and reasonable prices well at least Western Auto

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by joe 1950

Ah remember the good old days at Western Auto and don’t forget JC Whitney good quality products and reasonable prices well at least Western Auto

Up until about 10 years ago, I ordered rebuilt carburetors from J.C. Whitney. I wanted to get the original Quadrajet on my '68 Corvette redone, so I ordered a direct replacement for $179.95, no exchange. It worked great out of the box. I did the same thing with the original carb on my '70 el Camino. I think that one was $129.95, no exchange, and I sold it on eBay a few months later for $200.

[Robert/Texas]

Joe, Some of the good old days are still here. I bought my 1992 Wizard/Western Auto lawn tractor used in 1994 and we still mow our lawn with it.

[SoCalCoupe]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

>>>Any thoughts on a reasonable torque value to prevent weepage AND protect thread integrity?>>>


Snug. Not tight. Weepage is fine with me. Drippage, not so much. 8^)

Did the deed this weekend, changed the oil and put in 5w-40 Mobil-One European Formula oil. Not totally sure what European Formula means, best I can tell is different additives for extended oil change intervals. But, like RalphInCA said, everything today is so much better than what was available in the 1940's it shouldn't be a worry. Didn't sound poisonous to cast iron blocks.



Bought a new drain plug gasket only to find that it was about 3x the diameter of my drain plug. Must not be a stock oil pan. It has a much smaller diameter plug, maybe 5/8", but with plenty of threads in the pan, maybe at least 1/2". Since my new gasket wouldn't work, thought I'd make my own with a roll of Felpro gasket material.


Well, turns out there was a copper gasket on the drain plug that WAS NOT coming off. It turned, but the diameter was so small I couldn't engage it on the threads to turn it off. Gave up but did my best to clean it up and remove contamination along with contamination of the hole in the pan. Two gaskets are usually worse than one gasket.



Totally agree that ""Weepage is fine with me. Drippage, not so much." "Snug. Not tight" drives me crazy. I THINK that's what I did; I hope so. After 24 hours no drippage or weepage.



Been a long time but when I took my nearly new 1989 vehicle to a shop for an oil change three decades ago, there was A LOT of drippage. A lot of shouting ensued but they finally had to admit defeat and replace the oil pan. Snug, not tight didn't work so well for them.



Wasn't so lucky with another bolt in another part of the car. Have to buy another helicoil set this week, my second this year. Argghh!

[lotsagas4u]

The Valvoline VR-1 is great break-in oil, as it contains a good amount of zinc, which is needed for flat tappet cams. But it does not contain much detergent, so sludge build up could be a concern if you expect to run the engine for 50,000 miles,
There are two versions of this oil, one in black container, low detergent, silver container, normal detergent, both high in zinc.

[ct1932ford]

VR-1 20/50 is all I run. I change the oil as soon as it looks dirty.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by ct1932ford

VR-1 20/50 is all I run. I change the oil as soon as it looks dirty.

Same here. If you look around, sometimes you can find great deals like $25 a case. It's been a while since I've found a block buster deal like that, but last time I did, I loaded up.

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by lotsagas4u

The Valvoline VR-1 is great break-in oil, as it contains a good amount of zinc, which is needed for flat tappet cams. But it does not contain much detergent, so sludge build up could be a concern if you expect to run the engine for 50,000 miles,
There are two versions of this oil, one in black container, low detergent, silver container, normal detergent, both high in zinc.

To expand on your statement.
The black container is synthetic as stated on the label. The gray container does not mention anywhere that it is synthetic. It states for racing and classic cars "Specially designed for push-rod & flat- tappet engines".