Want to adapt a F-O-M to my flat 6. Advice?

[LazarusLong]

Just bought a 51 business coupe with the original flat 6,and the flat 6 is staying in the car. Given my advanced state of geezerism and Santa not bringing me the new knees I need last year,I'm starting to give some thought to adapting a Ford-O-Matic auto trans to my flat 6. I know that was a option in 51,but I doubt many people picked it.

Anybody ever done this or have any idea what I need to have to complete the process?

Am I stuck with a 51-53 FOM,or can I use one from a Y-Block? Are there any obvious appearance differences between a 51-53 FOM and one that was put behind OHV 6's and Y-Block V-8's? I want to keep the car as stock-appearing as possible. Even underneath.

Anybody have any idea where I can find a automatic shift column for a 51 Ford that is complete?

What about a torque convertor?

Anyone know the factory rear gear ratio for flat 6 automatic 51 Fords? I'm guessing there were at least 2 or 3 of them made and sold,so the info has to be out there somewhere.

Thanks for any help or suggestions in advance,as long as none of them are "replace the flat 6 with a sbc".

[51 MERC-CT]

There are virtually no differences between the transmissions. The bell housings are what determined which engine it fit. In your case you would need the proper bell housing as well as the torque converter/starter gear which in itself requires a different starter/bendix combination.
Then there's the rear motor mount, which is probably different.
And there is the accelerator to transmission kick down linkage.
You mentioned requiring an automatic column which should have a neutral safety switch attached and properly wired.
Don't know what the Ford rear gear ratio would be but the Merc.'s are 3.31

[oldskool]

I believe bendtsens makes a adaptor/kit to install a ford AOD trans for 6 cyl fords..

[JSeery]

AOD might be the way to go if it will fit in there. The overdrive would be nice.

[LazarusLong]

Thanks,51 Merc-CT.

Looks like this will be virtually undoable because it will be almost impossible to find a 6 cyl bellhousing,torque convertor,and starter.

[LazarusLong]

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Thanks,Oldskool. I really don't want to alter the car from original if I can avoid it,though.

[LazarusLong]

"AOD might be the way to go if it will fit in there. The overdrive would be nice."

Thanks,JSeery,but for me it is a F-O-M or I keep the manual+od original trans.

[JSeery]

Looks like manual it is! LOL

You could look for a parts car so you would have all the pieces you need in one place, but then it might be easier to just go with the new car if you could find one in as good of shape or better than your current one.

[LazarusLong]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Looks like manual it is! LOL

You could look for a parts car so you would have all the pieces you need in one place, but then it might be easier to just go with the new car if you could find one in as good of shape or better than your current one.

Thanks,but it would be almost impossible to find a complete 51 coupe with the original flat 6 and automatic. I doubt that Ford sold a dozen of them new. People who were thrifty enough to buy 6 cylinder base coupes with overdrive generally weren't about to spring for the added expense and poorer gas mileage of a car with an automatic trans.

And if the bellhousings,torque convertors,and starters aren't interchangeable between the flat 6 and the flat V-8,my search would be restricted to only 1951 cars. Ford came out with the OHV inline 6 in 1952.

In the unlikely event I ever replace my flat 6 with anything,it will by a Y-Block Ford. I don't see that happening,though. I spent all this time looking specifically for a coupe with the flat 6 because that's what I wanted.

[rotorwrench]

The Borg Warner electric overdrive option was close to being automatic when you start out in 2nd then shift into OD while driving around town. If the car is heavy with passengers, it is a bit sluggish to start out in 2nd but if it's just a couple of folks in there then it works OK. The 6-cylinder has plenty of torque so that should work.

The old Ford-O-Matics are not too bad when one is in good shape and is well cared for. It is getting harder and harder to find the hard parts for them. When overhauled, it takes a sharp technician to follow the procedures for overhaul in the appropriate manuals and then get them properly adjusted after. It really helps when you can find someone with experience with them. They have quirks and experience definitely helps get the job done correctly. Torque converters wear out and finding parts is getting to be a problem. The advice about an AOD or even a C4 transmission is an option worth considering.

[Ross F-1]

Does the crank on the 6 need to be machined for the t.c. hub?

[toby]

A Fordomatic was not offered in 51 for a 226, 6 cylinder. The bellhousing is completely different the way it bolts to the block. A 6 has a flat rear engine plate that the bell attaches to. A V8 bell will not match up(different shape, bolt positions etc.)

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by toby

A Fordomatic was not offered in 51 for a 226, 6 cylinder. The bellhousing is completely different the way it bolts to the block. A 6 has a flat rear engine plate that the bell attaches to. A V8 bell will not match up(different shape, bolt positions etc.)

Guess that solves that!

[Ol' Ron]

You might want to contact Gene at Flat o matic. He might be able to supply you with a C-4 kit. you could also use a V8 steering column.

[LazarusLong]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The Borg Warner electric overdrive option was close to being automatic when you start out in 2nd then shift into OD while driving around town. If the car is heavy with passengers, it is a bit sluggish to start out in 2nd but if it's just a couple of folks in there then it works OK. The 6-cylinder has plenty of torque so that should work.

The old Ford-O-Matics are not too bad when one is in good shape and is well cared for. It is getting harder and harder to find the hard parts for them. When overhauled, it takes a sharp technician to follow the procedures for overhaul in the appropriate manuals and then get them properly adjusted after. It really helps when you can find someone with experience with them. They have quirks and experience definitely helps get the job done correctly. Torque converters wear out and finding parts is getting to be a problem. The advice about an AOD or even a C4 transmission is an option worth considering.

Thank you for the well-thought out and informative reply. I am hoping against all odds that a Y-Block FOM will work because I know where I can get one of them. I sold it to a friend of mine a couple of years ago and he's never used it. And I know it to be good because I pulled it and 312 I am going to use in my 34 pu out of a 58 Ford drag car that I drove around some.

The point about finding someone experienced with FOM's is getting to be a scary problem because most of these people are already dead or unable to work anymore. I have no idea what to do about that other than wish for the best. If worse comes to worse,I will buy a manual and rebuild the damn thing myself.

I have no idea what to do about replacement hard parts made from Unobtanium,other than the wishing for the best thing.

I doubt I will be lucky enough to find a 6 cylinder bellhousing and torque converter anyhow,so the point may be mute.

Then again,I am probably the only one in the country looking for them,so the competition won't be fierce.

[LazarusLong]

Originally Posted by Ross F-1

Does the crank on the 6 need to be machined for the t.c. hub?

Beats me,but I am assuming not because it would have complicated the production process. It's not like they really expected to sell a lot of 6 cylinder automatic trans cars.

I'm hoping that somebody that knows for sure will pipe up and let us know,though.

Thank you for asking because I hadn't even wondered about that. No way am I pulling my crank out to have it machined and rebalanced. The engine runs too good to mess with it.

[LazarusLong]

Originally Posted by toby

A Fordomatic was not offered in 51 for a 226, 6 cylinder. The bellhousing is completely different the way it bolts to the block. A 6 has a flat rear engine plate that the bell attaches to. A V8 bell will not match up(different shape, bolt positions etc.)

I have read from another source that the automatic was an option for 6 cylinder cars in 1951.

I will look it up later tonight when I have more time and post a link to it on this thread tonight.

I seriously doubt they sold very many of them,though. Maybe to an occasional amputee or something,but most people that bought 6's back then were frugal and wanted fuel economy.

[LazarusLong]

Originally Posted by toby

A Fordomatic was not offered in 51 for a 226, 6 cylinder.

That sure is a pretty engine!

Are those Webers? Who manufactured the intake?

Did/does anyone manufacture a finned aluminum head for the 226?

[LazarusLong]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

You might want to contact Gene at Flat o matic. He might be able to supply you with a C-4 kit. you could also use a V8 steering column.

Thanks for the tips!

I have a couple of good C-4's laying around in the shop,but would much prefer to stay with the FOM if I can. I'm not a purist or show car restorer,but I'd still like to keep the car as original as possible as long as it's not a safety issue. I'm definitely going to go with a dual outlet non-power master cylinder under the floor once I recover from buying the car and spending the money to get it back on the road with a new original master cylinder.

Then again,if/when my left leg gets amputated I will be out of choices and have to do something. Botched operation at a VA hospital killed the circulation,and age and diabetes did the rest.

[toby]

The carbs are stock one barrels and the intake is an Edmunds.

In order to mate a Flat-O-Matic (C-4) you would have to change to a truck configuration with a truck rear engine plate, oil pan and pickup, half bell and then deal with the steering to clear the truck oil pan(the truck oil pan is towards the rear of the engine while the car is more towards the center). The center sump of the car makes room for the steering assembly.