Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Early V8 (1932-53)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-10-2016, 08:16 PM   #21
karasmer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Duluth MN
Posts: 594
Default Re: 1940 convertible restoration started

Well that's good to know I was thinking Ford had spacers of different thicknesses at different locations, but if I can bolt the mounting spots directly then shim from there, that;s great. What I like is the sturdiness of this body compared to the Model A roadsters I have worked on, so many of them have been put on there side then you end up racking the cowl or body, I really don't see the need to be tacking braces anywhere because the body is going to do what it wants once the tacks are cut loose, maybe I'm wrong here. So floor pan sandwiched between body brackets and frame, bolted tight then shim as needed? will have to get the door hinge pins dialed in also before final adjustments.
karasmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2016, 09:02 PM   #22
karasmer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Duluth MN
Posts: 594
Default Re: 1940 convertible restoration started

Another thing I have done, spent a whopping $12 on a rustoleum satin black paint job to keep it rusting and looking decent during the restoration because there will be lulls especially this fall (busy work schedule) coming up. Feeling really blessed to have found this project on Ebay, looked really rough in the photos and had no clue that all the extra parts were included especially the full set of top irons I just jumped on the deal when the seller shot me a price, barely a dent on it just a rotted out floor. Dash is nice except the instrument cluster (non original standard) is rusty.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg project 1.jpg (49.6 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg project 2.jpg (53.7 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg project 3.jpg (62.7 KB, 36 views)
karasmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 09-11-2016, 01:59 PM   #23
V8COOPMAN
Senior Member
 
V8COOPMAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,106
Default Re: 1940 convertible restoration started

Quote:
Originally Posted by karasmer View Post
I really don't see the need to be tacking braces anywhere because the body is going to do what it wants once the tacks are cut loose, maybe I'm wrong here.
The thirst for information/advice in this thread by the OP reminds me of an old adage......something along the lines of showing a thirsty horse where the water trough is, yet somehow not being able to convince him to drink any of it. DD
__________________
Click Links Below __


'35-'36 W/8BA & MECHANICAL FAN


T5 W/TORQUE TUBE
V8COOPMAN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2016, 03:49 PM   #24
Kube
Senior Member
 
Kube's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 8,937
Default Re: 1940 convertible restoration started

Quote:
Originally Posted by karasmer View Post
Well that's good to know I was thinking Ford had spacers of different thicknesses at different locations, but if I can bolt the mounting spots directly then shim from there, that;s great. What I like is the sturdiness of this body compared to the Model A roadsters I have worked on, so many of them have been put on there side then you end up racking the cowl or body, I really don't see the need to be tacking braces anywhere because the body is going to do what it wants once the tacks are cut loose, maybe I'm wrong here. So floor pan sandwiched between body brackets and frame, bolted tight then shim as needed? will have to get the door hinge pins dialed in also before final adjustments.
ARGGGHH!!! No need to brace? Are you kidding? There's an old saying (piece of advice actually) that when doing one of these '39 - '40 open cars... "once you have braced the body enough, go back and do some more".

This is one piece of advice that can't be argued away. If you want to end up with a car that
fits "so -so" at best and struggle to get it that "good" go ahead - don't brace.

Door hinge pins "dialed in"? I trust that means pins replaced in to refurbished (read: round and aligned) holes.
__________________
"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".
Kube is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2016, 09:47 PM   #25
karasmer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Duluth MN
Posts: 594
Default Re: 1940 convertible restoration started

I have done this before but only when lifting a complete body off the frame so nothing gets tweaked. I can see the logic here in once the door gaps are set with bracing in place then the hinge work can begin to make sure the doors open and close correctly with the gaps being maintained. I assume the hinge pin holes will need re-drilling/ reaming and oversize pins also.
karasmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:49 AM.