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11-22-2015, 01:48 PM | #21 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Reversing the polarity can mess with the coil and the generator. The generator can be re-polarized. The coil may be damaged, might need to have it checked. Might consider sending it to Babba or at least PMing him.
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11-22-2015, 06:03 PM | #22 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
I don't believe you can damage a coil by connecting it with the wrong polarity. Like other kinds of transformers it has a soft iron core that has the magnetic property of being easily magnetized and de-magnetized, so there will be no lasting effect of reversed polarity.
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11-22-2015, 06:34 PM | #23 | |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
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11-22-2015, 09:34 PM | #24 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Just did a little quick research, from what I can find reverse polarity reduces coil output (while reversed) but results in no permanent damage.
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11-22-2015, 10:05 PM | #25 | |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
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11-22-2015, 10:24 PM | #26 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
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11-22-2015, 11:51 PM | #27 | |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
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11-23-2015, 07:43 AM | #28 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
It's supposed to be positive ground. Nobody answered that part of this which I find unusual.
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11-23-2015, 08:14 AM | #29 | |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Quote:
"The executor whom I purchased the car from had a new 6 volt battery installed as a negative ground. The car was driven a few times short distances before I purchased it saw the error and changed to a positive ground. Do not know if this could have caused some damage." |
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11-23-2015, 09:50 AM | #30 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Polarity??
A coil aqquires some residual magnetism over a period of time. Once a given polarity is put into a coil either positive or negative then that coil will retain that polarity. When reversed the coil loose some of its output. Some GM bullitins say as much as 80% of the maximum output. Polarity over the years has been reversed by incorrect wiring on factory cars. The effect was a more frequent tune up needed. Lets say the coil has a reserve max out put level of 25,000 volts from the factory, reversing the polarity would lower the max output to 5-10,000 volts. If you kept your car tuned you might not ever notice the difference. However underload ( when you might need the extra voltage) and acceleration it might miss fire. As i find some spare time i can hook up a scope and fire a test plug to show the actual differences firing in a backwards polarity..... |
11-23-2015, 10:34 AM | #31 | |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
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11-23-2015, 11:50 AM | #32 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Another observation , over the years we have tested a lot of early Ford helmet coils on our Allen coil tester.
If i forget and wire it negative ground they usually put out less spark than if i wire it positive ground. Nowdays i check both directions just to make sure the coil is good... BTW did we ever get this car running ??????????? |
11-23-2015, 12:00 PM | #33 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Theres a big difference between a ignition coil and a normal transformer.
The normal transformer has ac going through with a reversing magnetic field. The ignition coil has a chopped dc and the magnetic field just rise and fall. |
11-23-2015, 03:14 PM | #34 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Engine, from what I can see on tag, seems to be a wartime Canadian 239, distributor is '42-end of war Canadian iron crab.
On removing the distributor...though you have a tighter engine compartment, I believe you can remove it the same way I would on my '48 without much trouble. It will only be hard the first time...once you see how it all goes you'll be able to do it in the dark. Pop loose the clips holding cap and push cap forward loose. Remove distributor bolts...one you can see, other is 180 around. Open end wrench. Note how rotor is pointing...distributor will only go back on the right way, and seeing where it is in its rotation will help you get there. Wire (primary) is already off. stick fingers into gap between cap and distributor, push rotor forward and off. cap can stay there, dangling on its wires. Wiggle distributor forward a very short distance and it's loose, weasel it out sideways and you have it, now easy to work on. R&R does NOT affect timing. On re-installation, get rotor into about same position you noted earlier, push distributor towards its seat, and go back and forth with rotor until tab slips into its slot. |
11-24-2015, 11:06 AM | #35 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Didn't see any mention of the points (may have missed it) but point surfaces oxidize when a car just sits. This corrosion acts as insulation so current can't flow through and energize the coil. While distributor is out clean, gap and test point resistance.
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11-28-2015, 10:44 AM | #36 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Hey thanks for the advise.
Bruce Lancastor your instructions were very helpful. Have the distributor off now and will be taking it to a friend to see where the problem is next week. Appreciate all the advise. Will report results after distributor is reinstalled |
11-30-2015, 03:43 PM | #37 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
The first time you attack one of these things, it looks impossible to service. Once you have been through the minor tricks to removal, you can get it off in about a minute by braille and have it comfortably inside the house to rebuild. You may find this easier, in fact, than draping yourself over the fender to service a more modern distributor...
Ford released a "field expedient" timing system in its 1946 service book...I suspect this came out of WWII. I've checked this and a similar method foe '32-41 distributord against a KRW Ford timing fixture, and all is good. It is summarized online here: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...str-timing.htm You will find a lot of other good information on that site. |
12-06-2015, 10:12 AM | #38 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Well I finally got the car going again yesterday.
Thanks to everyone for their input. A special thanks to my friend Ted who was a big help on this issue. It does not appear that it was a single problem but a combination of little issues. To recap - the car had been running last summer and then after sitting for three weeks it would not start. Through the process of elimination I changed the coil and condenser. Still no start. Removed the distributor. Points were corroded so they were cleaned up and re gaped. Plugs were fouled. Cleaned and re-gaped them. Still no start. Cleaned the connections to starter and coil and after some coaxing got the car running again. Drove the car for about 30 minutes. Shut if off and it started right up. Better than my 2008 car. Now I am going to proceed to clean every electrical connection on the car. Hopefully this will keep things working. Of course it is now almost winter so it will not getting any use til the spring, but hey it is running!!!! |
12-06-2015, 12:10 PM | #39 |
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Re: 1939 Distributor Problem
Sound like good progress!
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