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Old 07-29-2016, 09:20 AM   #21
jheinrichs
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Default Re: Xmission Oil

I purchased the 1929 pickup this January and started driving it in May. I've put just under 200 miles on it. I drained the tranny last week and put in 100% Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I assume the old oil was 600W as the previous owner included a plain plastic quart bottle of oil and had labeled it 600W. I drove the truck 5 miles and had more trouble downshifting but did have to add about a half an inch of oil when Ichecked the next day.
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:18 PM   #22
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Tam's is the only supplier that I'm aware of selling the correct 600W. Use straight from container. Available in quarts or gallons.
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:01 AM   #23
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This is the real deal. There are a few other brands. Shell Omala S2 G 680
www.kellerheartt.com
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:08 AM   #24
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Well now that the car is running somewhat decent I crawled under to drain the transmission. Stuck a finger in the fill hole and it came out bone dry. Took out the drain plug and got all of 1/2 cup of black something........I double clutch and never had any problem shifting,or grinding but the car had what I thought sounded like gear whine. My friend up the road Quigely provided me with some 600W gear oil. I'll let this thing drain (drip) overnight per Tom W. suggestion, get some oil in there and go for a spin tomorrow. Cheers
Nothing good can come From that scenario...
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:17 AM   #25
William Kelchner
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I feel the same way every time I drive the car.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:58 AM   #26
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This whole 600W thing is frustrating. My car had straight STP in it when I got it. Everything seemed to work OK, I put 50/50 lucas 85w-90/stabilizer. Just because it was easy to obtain. I don't really notice any difference in the operation. The Lucas combo leaks quite a bit more. I was given some 600W from one of the A suppliers, was surprised it wasn't really any thicker consistency than what I already put in it.
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Old 07-31-2016, 02:33 PM   #27
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Default Re: Xmission Oil

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This is the real deal. There are a few other brands. Shell Omala S2 G 680
www.kellerheartt.com






Works out to about $6/Qt with free shipping.
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Old 07-31-2016, 02:38 PM   #28
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Works out to about $6/Qt with free shipping.
Can you buy less than 5 gallons?
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Old 07-31-2016, 03:03 PM   #29
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Can you buy less than 5 gallons?





Nope, doesn't appear so.
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Old 07-31-2016, 04:09 PM   #30
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Can you buy less than 5 gallons?
It's only sold in 5 gallon pails or larger drums
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:15 PM   #31
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This is the real deal. There are a few other brands. Shell Omala S2 G 680
www.kellerheartt.com

What makes you say this is the "real deal" as 600W is a Mobil trademark?

"The Mobil Cylinder Oil brand of lubricants represents the earliest lubricant product marketed by our Corporation's predecessor companies. 600W Cylinder Oil was produced by the Vacuum Oil Company in the second half of the 19th century and was a breakthrough product of its time. Continual upgrading and application of the latest base oil and additive technology has maintained this product series as a leader in its application areas. While steam cylinder applications are now less common, the reputation of Mobil Cylinder Oils in worm gear applications remains unmatched among mineral-based products."

The original 600w was ISO 680 with the nearest SAE gear oil equivalent being SAE 250. Ford changed to SAE 250 in 1932.

A Model A will survive almost anything (even straight STP!) or why else would there be so many survivors. Based on what I have read here over the years, seems a great many owners drive no more than a few hundred miles a year. With that just about anything will work and the effects would not be seen the owners lifetime.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:35 AM   #32
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Default Re: Xmission Oil

Depending on your climate, why not just use 90W or 140W?-----SIMPLE!
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Old 08-01-2016, 02:38 PM   #33
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Depending on your climate, why not just use 90W or 140W?-----SIMPLE!
Bill W.




Used to use only 140 weight years ago in just about everything. Bought it by the drum. Works fine. Oh, the days back when things were simpler.

The literature I've read shows 600W in the 160-240 range.

I've tried 90, 140, 250, 600W over the years and they work fine. The only I didn't like was the Lucas crap. Haven't tried STP and not about to.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:06 PM   #34
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A Model A will survive almost anything (even straight STP!) or why else would there be so many survivors. Based on what I have read here over the years, seems a great many owners drive no more than a few hundred miles a year. With that just about anything will work and the effects would not be seen the owners lifetime.
I've bought 2 Model As out of the US. When I received the first one, the gearbox was so dry there was just enough oil in the bottom for the big gear on the lower shaft to dip. When I asked the PO about that, he said "That might be right, I've never checked it". The gears were all galled but the bearings ran quiet so I flushed out the sparkly bits and refilled with my usual 250 grade transmission oil. I've done several thousand miles since and all is running well so far.
The second car had just been serviced by a current Ford dealer. WHAT A MESS. The brakes were so far out of adjustment they were dangerous, the diff was bone dry and the Mitchell O/D only contained about 200ml (6-7 ounces) of oil. My guess is that they didn't have the tool to undo the plugs with the square holes so they left them. I drained, flushed and refilled the diff. It survived. I drained and refilled the O/D with GL5 EP gear oil and it also is OK.
The car had been "serviced" only just before it was sold (to me) and had done only 13 miles since. The sticker on the windscreen said the next service was due 3,000 miles down the road. Must be some super oil to go that far without an oil filter. These people were IDIOTS, yet the Model A survived.
I won't identify the dealer other than to say they are in AZ unless someone asks in a PM.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:10 PM   #35
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I've bought 2 Model As out of the US. When I received the first one, the gearbox was so dry there was just enough oil in the bottom for the big gear on the lower shaft to dip. When I asked the PO about that, he said "That might be right, I've never checked it". The gears were all galled but the bearings ran quiet so I flushed out the sparkly bits and refilled with my usual 250 grade transmission oil. I've done several thousand miles since and all is running well so far.
The second car had just been serviced by a current Ford dealer. WHAT A MESS. The brakes were so far out of adjustment they were dangerous, the diff was bone dry and the Mitchell O/D only contained about 200ml (6-7 ounces) of oil. My guess is that they didn't have the tool to undo the plugs with the square holes so they left them. I drained, flushed and refilled the diff. It survived. I drained and refilled the O/D with GL5 EP gear oil and it also is OK.
The car had been "serviced" only just before it was sold (to me) and had done only 13 miles since. The sticker on the windscreen said the next service was due was 3,000 miles down the road. Must be some super oil to go that far without an oil filter. These people were IDIOTS!
I won't identify the dealer other than to say they are in AZ unless someone asks in a PM.
You don't have to ,, they are all the same..
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:12 PM   #36
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You don't have to ,, they are all the same..
Mitch, You're probably right. That's a scary thought.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:26 PM   #37
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I worked the dealership line for 15 years...
It's not what it used to be ..
All they look to do is sell unneeded cash services , p/s flushes, brake flushes etc.. Mileage services which is mostly check this and that for 300.00. Which in my state most of it falls under state inspection so it gets checked then.
They try and make the consumer think in order to keep the warranty valid the vehicle has to get serviced by them.. They hire these kids from tech schools who graduate and can't even air a tire properly or set a lift...
Probably the person that serviced your A was that kid from the other thread about the parts counter idiot.
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