Help she no go....

[1930artdeco]

OK I finally got done putting Barb back together and she is liquored up oil and water with no leaks-so far . Went to fire her up and got a wimpy pop and then nothing. So here is what I have done so far:


-Timed her three times (according to Les)-the dimple is just past the timing pin hole.
-The rotor lines up with #1 (modern upper plate) and I have 6v with a meter at the points. I also hear and see a spark when I open and close the points.

-I pulled the plugs to make rotation easier and they were bone dry and I have been using starter fluid.
-I have gas going to the carb as I cracked the line and it started to leak.
-She does crank


Any other ideas? Tomorrow I will pull a plug and see if I get a spark at the plug.





Thanks,


Mike

[daren007]

Stop using starter fluid.

[Bulligen]

Did You put in a new timing gear? Is it installed on the corresponding tooth on the crank gear? It sounds like timing.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

To test - spark plug one should fire with spark lever up, ignition on, and the timing pin going into the dimple. Quickest easiest way to check timing and entire ignition.

[1930artdeco]

No timing gear, everything is moving correctly as far as I can tell. It has to be electrical, I just can't figure out where. If it is timing I don't think there is a way to be 180 out.

[Bill G]

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Make sure the rotor points to #1 at the same time the timing gear is set for the dimple. I once assumed that just because I took the distributor out and put it back in that nothing could go wrong. That was the wrong thing to assume. I had the biggest loudest backfire I ever had. Fixing it was as easy as loosening the cam screw and setting it correctly.

[Patrick L.]

You say there is voltage to the points, is there spark at the sparklers ? That should be checked.

Don't use any more ether !

Add some oil to the cylinders and spin the motor a bit, install the sparklers before trying to start it again.

[DD931]

There is a confusing statement in Les Andrew's book about timing. He says put the rotor arm "opposite" the #1 contact. He means AT, not across from!!!

[wmws]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

No timing gear, everything is moving correctly as far as I can tell. It has to be electrical, I just can't figure out where. If it is timing I don't think there is a way to be 180 out.

Be sure you are on the top of the compression stroke and not the top of the exhaust stroke when it fires.

[jhowes]

I am going to disagree with everyone. He says that the plugs are dry but there is gas at the input to the carburetor. If he removes the drain at the bottom of the carb does the gas flow? Dry plugs tells me that the gas is not getting to the cylinder. Jack

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by jhowes

I am going to disagree with everyone. He says that the plugs are dry but there is gas at the input to the carburetor. If he removes the drain at the bottom of the carb does the gas flow? Dry plugs tells me that the gas is not getting to the cylinder. Jack

X2, drain bolt test, and -


Just to confirm timing would still do my post above, does plug 1 fire when when the timing pin goes into the dimple?

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

-Timed her three times (according to Les)-the dimple is just past the timing pin hole.
-The rotor lines up with #1 (modern upper plate)

I'm not sure what you mean by "the dimple is just past the timing pin hole". The timing pin should fit into the dimple in the cam gear. The dimple and the timing pin hole should be in alignment.

When timed correctly, the rotor should be approximately in this position relative to the #1 contact on the distributor body with the lever on the column in the fully retarded (up) position.



The dotted lines are where the rotor should be with the lever on the column in the fully advanced (down) position.

[Railcarmover]

When you think its electrical,its fuel,when you think its fuel,its electrical.

starting fluid? in a model a?..

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

When you think its electrical,its fuel,when you think its fuel,its electrical.

starting fluid? in a model a?..

I think it's an acceptable way of determining if it is an electrical or carb problem. If it pops (and maybe even runs a few seconds) on the ether, it is probably not an electrical problem. If it won't even pop on the ether there is probably no spark (or spark at the wrong time).

I know some are dead set against the use of starting fluid...especially in diesels...but I believe it's a good diagnostic tool in small doses.

https://blog.amsoil.com/is-starting-...r-gas-engines/

[Railcarmover]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

I think it's an acceptable way of determining if it is an electrical or carb problem. If it pops (and maybe even runs a few seconds) on the ether, it is probably not an electrical problem. If it won't even pop on the ether there is probably no spark (or spark at the wrong time).

I know some are dead set against the use of starting fluid...especially in diesels...but I believe it's a good diagnostic tool in small doses.

https://blog.amsoil.com/is-starting-...r-gas-engines/

I use it,even in late high pressure common rail fuel systems on diesel engines,often the extra bit is needed when repriming a system.Sparingly is key,too much and they 'ether lock'..but on an A? pull plugs and drip a little gas in the cylinders..prior to doing it check spark at plugs.

[Purdy Swoft]

Timing and brake rod adjustment seems to be the main problem that most have .. When the timing pin drops in place , I loosen the distributor cam and adjust so that the TRAILING edge of the rotor tip aligns exactly with the number one contact in the distributor cap . Most model A's have some ROTATIONAL free play in the distributor shaft , that I call backlash . Make sure that all of the backlash is in the counter clockwise direction when the cam screw is tightened or the timing will end up retarded to whatever amount of rotational backlash that is allowed to remain after the cam screw is tightened . It usually takes a few tries To get the backlash correct when present . There are distributor cam wrenches sold that makes this adjustment easier . If the timing is the least bit retarded it will never have the pep and power that it should have and it will run higher temps . I would also check the gaps at the rotor tip . Ford recommended a conservative gap of .025 . More gap will give hotter spark at the spark plugs . I set my gap at the rotor tip at .035 . If more gap scares you then set the gap at .025 and it will be at Ford specs . As for dry plugs , If the compression is real low , it may not have enough suction to pull the gas up to the combustion chambers . The engine could have flooded and washed the oil from around the rings. When the oil gets washed away from the rings , compression can be lost to a great degree . Pour a little oil in the cylinders like Pat recommends in post number seven .

[CT Jack]

Use advise from Dick Steinkamp. If your timing pin and rotor are in alignment and you are getting fuel, you should have ignition. I would remove the carburetor and check the float valve. If the bowl is dry or has minimal fuel this is a sign of internal blockage. The float valve could be stuck closed due to varnish or particles. Clean out any sediment in the bowl and make sure the float valve tip and seat are clean. Good luck

[Wick]

Intake gasket is leaking,motor is drawing air instead of fuel.

[1930artdeco]

UPDATE.


I though the lack of spark was due to the fact that I anti-seized the base of the dizzy so that it would not rust into the head. Well removed the dizzy and cleaned it all off and still nothing. But I also changed the condenser out so will change it back to a known one this week. Unfortuantely, work is interfeiring with my hobby.


Mike

[1930artdeco]

Wick I will check the manifold as I put in new gland rings that may be a tad to wide.


Mike