Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Early V8 (1932-53)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-18-2019, 10:51 PM   #1
Clem Clement
Senior Member
 
Clem Clement's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,391
Default Oil change process

I have not run my restored 40MEREC since mid July. She waits for a oil change which I am fully remiss in doing. I'm in cardio rehab so my tin waits. The oil is dark

do I start it her and warm up the setting oil before draining out the oil; or drain it static? I do not have a filter.
Clem Clement is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2019, 10:53 PM   #2
dbtenner
Member
 
dbtenner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 84
Default Re: Oil change process

You always want to drain the oil warm as it decreases viscosity and drains out better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dbtenner is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 12-19-2019, 04:18 AM   #3
51 MERC-CT
Senior Member
 
51 MERC-CT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
Default Re: Oil change process

Since the car has not been run for a long period of time, the old crappy oil has drained into the oil pan.
Starting it to warm it up just pumps that oil that has managed to drain out of any lubricated parts back into the system.
In your case it really does'nt matter if it drains better or quicker.
Just drain it cold and let it do so for as long as it takes to stop dripping.
__________________
DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES

Last edited by 51 MERC-CT; 12-19-2019 at 05:06 AM.
51 MERC-CT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 07:18 AM   #4
chap52
Senior Member
 
chap52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,771
Default Re: Oil change process

I understand the "garage floor" cardio experience. I drain it cold. As stated no need to wake up the sleeping crud. Take out the drain plug and let it drain overnight. Next day replace the filter and fil put in the new oil... Chap
chap52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 09:56 AM   #5
Clem Clement
Senior Member
 
Clem Clement's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,391
Default Re: Oil change process

Thanks. In 6 months the big lumps should be at the bottom. When I gain strength I'll do it. Interestingly the restorer painted the big plug. I'll have to figure out how to release it without messing up the paint.
Merry Christmas
Clem Clement is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 09:57 AM   #6
Tim Ayers
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,144
Default Re: Oil change process

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.

Just another approach on how to do it
Tim Ayers is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 10:00 AM   #7
JSeery
Member Emeritus
 
JSeery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Ayers View Post
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.

Just another approach on how to do it
Agree with Tim, this is the approach I would take.
JSeery is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 10:03 AM   #8
JSeery
Member Emeritus
 
JSeery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem Clement View Post
Thanks. In 6 months the big lumps should be at the bottom. When I gain strength I'll do it. Interestingly the restorer painted the big plug. I'll have to figure out how to release it without messing up the paint.
Merry Christmas
I would use something like an Exacto knife to cut around where the plug meets the pan.
JSeery is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 12:27 PM   #9
Bored&Stroked
Senior Member
 
Bored&Stroked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,013
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem Clement View Post
Thanks. In 6 months the big lumps should be at the bottom. When I gain strength I'll do it. Interestingly the restorer painted the big plug. I'll have to figure out how to release it without messing up the paint.
Merry Christmas
Put masking tape on two sides and use a BIG crescent wrench - not a pair of Channel Locks like most tend to use. Or, maybe a big-ass socket. I have a crescent wrench the size of God - works well for that big ole' plug. No idea as to why Henry had to make it that way . . .
Bored&Stroked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 01:05 PM   #10
solidaxle
Senior Member
 
solidaxle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 475
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Ayers View Post
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.

Just another approach on how to do it
Not to say this is wrong, I would do this if it was sitting for years without starting. For six months it's probably not really necessary. With that said, if mine is pretty dirty, I will drain the pan ,wait for it to stop dripping and pour a half quart of new oil in the filler to push any left old oil out.


If you are using synthetic or blend, it's not a good idea to flush with mineral type oil.
solidaxle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 02:54 PM   #11
Tim Ayers
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,144
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by solidaxle View Post
Not to say this is wrong, I would do this if it was sitting for years without starting. For six months it's probably not really necessary. With that said, if mine is pretty dirty, I will drain the pan ,wait for it to stop dripping and pour a half quart of new oil in the filler to push any left old oil out.


If you are using synthetic or blend, it's not a good idea to flush with mineral type oil.
Deleted comment
Tim Ayers is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 02:59 PM   #12
Seth Swoboda
Senior Member
 
Seth Swoboda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 3,744
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked View Post
Put masking tape on two sides and use a BIG crescent wrench - not a pair of Channel Locks like most tend to use. Or, maybe a big-ass socket. I have a crescent wrench the size of God - works well for that big ole' plug. No idea as to why Henry had to make it that way . . .
It was the precursor to speedy lube. Fast drain times.
Seth Swoboda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 03:24 PM   #13
Merc Cruzer
Senior Member
 
Merc Cruzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Conifer, Colorado
Posts: 2,421
Default Re: Oil change process

Just changed the 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee cold. What I learned: Too may years of "old school", where you wind up with hot oil running down you hands and arms. Now on to the "cold oil change" for the 53' Merc and my wifes 70 Cougar. Thanks guys for the lesson learned.
Merc Cruzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 03:34 PM   #14
A bones
Senior Member
 
A bones's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: CLAYTON DE
Posts: 1,280
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Ayers View Post
A few times, I've drained them cold and then refilled with the cheapest oil I can find. Run the cheap oil for a warm up cycle and then drain that warm.

Once the cheap oil is drained, I refill with good stuff. Seems to catch the left overs from the cold drain.
What he said. When you consider what it protects, oil is cheap.
__________________
Enjoy yer day. Tom
Hate can't fix what it started.
A bones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2019, 04:17 PM   #15
51 MERC-CT
Senior Member
 
51 MERC-CT's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
Default Re: Oil change process

Speaking of a better way than crawling under the car to drain oil, this is a thread that I started about a year ago.-----


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253773
__________________
DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES
51 MERC-CT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2019, 10:17 AM   #16
19Fordy
Senior Member
 
19Fordy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 10,879
Default Re: Oil change process

Does the idea of draining the warm old oil and then putting in a quart of kerosene
(without the engine running) help in draining out the old oil and sledge that may have accumulated?

Add fresh oil after kerosene has drained out. QUESTION: Will the residual kerosene harm the engine by doing this?
19Fordy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2019, 11:06 AM   #17
A bones
Senior Member
 
A bones's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: CLAYTON DE
Posts: 1,280
Default Re: Oil change process

Old timers way back when would get hold of a customer's gummed up, neglected smoker. Drain the oil fill it with kero let it sit idling until the smoke quit (the rings now were free ) drain and fill with fresh oil. The neighbors loved it. NOT!

BTW Hydraulic Lifters ended such therapy.
__________________
Enjoy yer day. Tom
Hate can't fix what it started.

Last edited by A bones; 12-20-2019 at 11:15 AM. Reason: BTW
A bones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2019, 11:56 PM   #18
Bill S
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: H.B. So. Calif
Posts: 411
Default Re: Oil change process

A few years ago in the early 50s when I was in High School I worked in a SERVICE STATION. Note service. Well we would flush engines. 1/2 oil and 1/2 kerosene and run the engine until good and warm. Drain the engine and put fresh oil in.
Bill S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 12:11 AM   #19
40 Deluxe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,774
Default Re: Oil change process

Quote:
Originally Posted by 19Fordy View Post
Does the idea of draining the warm old oil and then putting in a quart of kerosene
(without the engine running) help in draining out the old oil and sledge that may have accumulated?

Add fresh oil after kerosene has drained out. QUESTION: Will the residual kerosene harm the engine by doing this?


Likely won't do any good. The kerosene will just make a beeline for the drain opening and be gone. To do any good, it has to slosh around in the engine awhile. And while many engines have been flushed (supposedly) with kerosene or Diesel fuel and survived, I don't want my engine's oil diluted with a non-lubricant!
40 Deluxe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2019, 12:33 AM   #20
Tinker
Senior Member
 
Tinker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,053
Default Re: Oil change process

Clem I bet your fine just draining the oil and doing a oil change. Better then not doing a oil change. If you didn't know the engine, then a pan drop.


Don't worry!


.
Tinker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:52 AM.