DRAFT - Front End Rebuild Outline

[bogiediver]

After spending a fair amount of time (probably more than I should have...) reviewing various threads on front end work and not finding a 'guideline' (for lack of a better term) to follow if attempting to inspect, and rebuild as necessary, all the components of the front end - I put together an outline starting at the radius ball at the trans housing and working forward and out to the wheels, based on what I read in the various threads...

Now - I'm not sure I even qualify as a shade-tree mechanic, much less someone who actually knows what he's talking about; but I thought this might be a starting point for the true experts to chime in to possibly modify the draft to come up with something a newbie could use as a reasonable guide.

I'm willing to compile the info, so if you're interested...

FWIW


PDF will be the latest version after acknowledging input from contributors.

[dave in australia]

It's a good start. I'm sure others can make additions to the inspection list.
One I can think of is; steering - ensure there are no tight spots throughout full travel from left to right.

[Brentwood Bob]

Also, visual inspection of steering box shaft. When loaded(on the ground) any looseness when steering wheel is moved.
Bob

[KR500]

Bogie, I like your outline. I would give all the attention to the axle it deserves. If it is bent, the four holes which basically determine camber and spring pin perch location are at proper angles. A Bear axle gage or 4 rods and 4 cones which fit the axle holes such as the ones K R Wilson sold would at least help with a visual angle determination. Front spindles, which supplement the King pin inclination angle need also be checked. Check that the king pins if reused are file tough and case hardened. If somewhere in the past they were replaced by some Taiwan or foreign replacements, I would consider them junk and usually undersize in diameter to the proper .8125 diameter.

[bogiediver]

Dave & Bob:

Per your input revised (underlined portion) the following section:

- Steering Box
--- Verify tight on frame
--- Verify filled with 600W lube (not grease)
--- Verify adjustments per service bulletins
------ Rebuild if not able to satisfactorily make adjustments
--- Verify there are no tight spots throughout full travel from left to right
--- Visual inspection of steering box shaft – with wheels on the ground; look for any looseness when steering wheel is moved

KR500:

Per your input revised (underlined portion) the following sections:

- Axle
--- Verify not bent
--- Verify four holes which determine camber and spring pin perch location are at proper angles (A Bear axle gage; or 4 rods and 4 cones which fit the axle holes [such as the ones K R Wilson sold] would help with visual angle determination)


-King Pins
--- Verify smooth with no burrs
--- Verify properly tightened
--- Verify locking bolts are on the rear side
--- Verify case hardened
--- Verify the proper .8125 diameter
--- Front spindles, which supplement the King pin inclination angle need also be checked

Thanks for the input... please let me know if I interpreted anything incorrectly.

Anyone else...??

[Brentwood Bob]

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Looking good. Bob

[Kevin in NJ]

Here are some comments that you may want to put into the guide.

Axle,

Check that the spindle bolts are snug in the holes. If they are loose then move on to another axle. Axles are not very expensive and common.

Look for wear at the wish bone to axle point. These can be loose and wear. You may have to shim for tightness.

Signs of heat for removal of the perches means the axle is very soft. While it is not a safety issue, the axle bends with minimal force. If you plan on driving the car you might want to consider a different axle.

Spindles.

Check for wear at the bearing points. Look at the bottom. Some are very worn. This will cause the brakes to not center properly as the hub will be off center.
The spindle bushings should be honed to fit. A reamer will work, but not a good as honing.
Look for wear at the top where the bearing goes. Too much wear and you might want to consider a different spindle. Otherwise you will need shims.

The steering box sector bushings being sold at the parts places are not correct. The information in Les Andrews book (and Bratton's) on the sector shaft diameter is wrong.

For Sector balls, slight wear is ok as long as it is a smooth transition to the full size sides.

The wishbone perch ends need to be inspected for cracks.
You should suspect a loose perch nut if you see red rust dust in those areas.

You will find some gross details at my website in my technical information.

[Bruce_MO]

As Kevin says, the steering balls on the spindles and pitman arm can be slightly out of round...no more than 20 thousandths is what I've been going by. And with no burrs or stepped areas.