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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeast Mo
Posts: 43
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I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I did a search and couldn't find anything. I am preparing to assemble my engine (59 style block) and would like opinions on main cap fasteners. When I pulled this engine apart, it had bolts with lock washers on all the main caps. Another block I have here (scrap) has studs and castellated nuts. Should I just use the bolts that it had, or remove and use those studs from the scrap block, or just order a set of studs/nuts from ARP?
This is just a mild street motor and won't see much abuse, but I don't want to risk failure if reusing what I have is sketchy. Thanks. Ron |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 2,891
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As I don't know if your engine has been align bored or honed, I would consider using the bolts that came in it - as sometimes when you change hardware on the main caps, it can cause them to distort differently under torque load - causing inconsistent bearing clearances.
Now - with that said, this is probably not an issue with your engine - just something to know about when you put the crank in and check clearances and how easily it rotates. Personally, I use ARP Studs in all my builds - but they are really high-end engines, so I look for all the help I can get! |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 57
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I use original army french flathead bolts, never had an issue
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sweden
Posts: 3,045
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If you´re not planning to upgrade the maincaps the original bolts/studs will be stronger then the caps...
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 12,177
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Some of the really old motors had nuts on the bottom side but they weren't attached to studs. The bolts come through from the top. On a block that uses bolts, I would continue to use bolts myself. Studs can be in the way during overhaul and generally have to come out any way so I see no real advantage there.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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I just lowered the crankshaft into the block yesterday in my '52 C1BA/8RT, to check clearances, etc. The main caps have bolts only, no lockwashers or holes to add safety wire. Should I use lock-tite on the bolts? ...Terry |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 12,177
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The torque is such that the bolt is stretched a bit. This level of torque should not require a locking feature. The bolt threads should be clean & dry.
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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![]() Quote:
I over-think/over-worry too much, my dad gave me my Overkill nickname. ...Terry |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeast Mo
Posts: 43
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Thanks for all the info guys. I think I'll just use the bolts it had.
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