Transmission headace

[dragonrider]

My transmission started to grind going into second and third about 3 weeks ago. the books said it could be the shift tower. Tried three no change. Re built mine just to be sure, still no change. Was told it was the bearings in the transmission. Pulled it out and checked. bearings seemed ok but the cluster gear and shaft didn't look too good. So, bought a rebuilt trans from Snyders. Installed it and still have the same problem. I've checked the pressure plate fingers and the clutch seems to be working as it should. Any ideas as to where to go next would be greatly appreciated .

[GRutter]

You stated that it's grinding "going into gear". Once in gear, is your transmission quiet ?
If the problem is just "going into gear" check the clutch linkage (clutch pedal to release shaft) You may find that the hole is very worn or the casting has cracked.

[dragonrider]

Already checked. Installed new bushings, shaft and hardware.

[Big hammer]

A higher idle can cause the gears to grind, has your idle speed changed? does the engine slow down between gears?

[rocket1]

The only thing left is the pilot brg. and pressure plate and clutch disc,3 quarters to one inch free play at clutch pedal.Did you try double clutching? you shouldn't have to,only when downshifting,but give it a try to see what happens,shame you had to go for that trans.I'm thinking what about the flywheel bolts,loosened and flywheel wobbeling,remote but something to check.

[Brendan]

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don't they all grind going in to gear? do you now how to shift it?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

TWO words to learn, PAUSE & WAIT!
You can't "hurry up" a Model A Transmission, just practice until you understand the speeds it needs & the pause times.
When you get the "hang" of it, you'll be able to downshift, even, from High to Second, at 35MPH, easily. AND, you better learn to do this, before doing MOUNTAINS!!!
I think about that DEEP GRAVEL Escape Ramp, for RUNAWAY Trucks, on the 99 Freeways' "Grapevine Grade" & "wonder" what it would be like to "FLY" into it, in a RUNAWAY Model A????
With the LOAN of a SHOVEL, you could just BURY it, in place & hitch hike home.
Seriously, you just have to learn to adapt to the transmission design, IT IS WHAT IT IS.
Put a Little Kid in the seat & he'll teach you "downshifting", with his MOUTHY SOUNDS!!! He lurned it frum watchin' Saturdays' Cartoons. OH, to be YOUNG again !
Chief & I would sit in the car & make MOTOR sounds, as I "practiced" UP & DOWN shifting. Chief said it was EASIER on the TRANSMISSION, that way!
POOR SOUL, he was NEVER able to teach Momma to drive!!!---We'd just "DRIVE MISS DAISY" & put her in the back, so she couldn't read the SPEEDO. Model As are GREAT FUN!---Look up the REAL definition of FUN, in the BIG DICTIONARY, if you can reach it???
Bill Barelyawake

[larrys40]

I agree with Big Hammer... you should make sure you idle isn't too high... it makes it more difficult for a smooth shift. Remember these are all straight cut gears and the "synchronizer is your hand and movement on the gear shift at the right time, right speed, and engine rpm. I tell folks to kind of lazy shift them. Count 1,2 if you need to and it will help.

Check idle speed, be patient, shift a little slower and try not to grind them. Go to a large parking lot if need be and practice. Next thing to learn is correct double clutching to match your engine speed to road speed to shift down the next lower gear.

Larry Shepard

[cpf240]

What lubricant is being used in the transmission? I've read that standard 600W slows down the gears a bit for the shift, and a 'modern' or lighter-weight oil may not, leading to some clashing of gears.


At least that is what I read on the Internet, so it must be true! :-)

[Jacksonlll]

Sounds like a binding, worn out pilot brg.

[eagle]

Theres a way to tell if its a clutch release issue. Keep the car stopped, transmission in nuetral, clutch out. Blip the throttle then push in the clutch, and shift into a gear. If it grinds then, your clutch is not disengaging. When you push in the clutch in this situation, the turning gears should stop very quickly. If they are not, then the clutch/throw out brg/etc is causing the issue.

[CT Jack]

Dragonrider I assume you are aware the gears in your tranny are all straight tooth and not tapered syncromesh. Many good driver operational points have been given in the previous posts (i.e. shift slowly, double clutch, lower idle speed, heavier oil viscosity, lower engine speed before changing gears). You might want to try some of these suggestions and find you have spent a lot of time and $ looking for a mechanical problem that is unrelated.

[rocket1]

Originally Posted by rocket1

The only thing left is the pilot brg. and pressure plate and clutch disc,3 quarters to one inch free play at clutch pedal.Did you try double clutching? you shouldn't have to,only when downshifting,but give it a try to see what happens,shame you had to go for that trans.I'm thinking what about the flywheel bolts,loosened and flywheel wobbeling,remote but something to check.

You claim this happened three weeks ago,was this the first time you had the A out after a prolonged storage? If not had you done any previous work on it? I'm thinking what if the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel or clutch plate.I had a problem recently when I took the A out after it sat all winter,I shifted into high and it would not go in started grinding and I finally got it to shift,then the problem disappeared after a couple of miles,I drove 175 miles last week no trans problem,go figure!

[Benson]

Try this get under bell housing and look at clutch release lever on bell housing while someone else pushes clutch pedal repeatedly to floor. Look closely for a crack to appear and/or for movement. Many times the crack cannot be seen with no tension on the lever because crack closes back up when released.

[ryanheacox]

+1 for the release arm