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Old 06-14-2020, 02:28 PM   #21
Jack Shaft
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Your assumption is correct comrade,the peoples republic of commiefornia..I live in the Central Valley with the rest of the slaves.
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Old 06-21-2020, 09:19 AM   #22
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Went back to the well,the water is dirt cheap . 2 8BA builders,truck bellhousing.Got a degree in banger engines,now I'm going to V8 school.
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Old 06-21-2020, 10:43 AM   #23
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Chuck those engines into a tank of water and leave them to soak for a month, then try a big block of wood and tap the pistons. If they still wont budge, then put it back into the water another month and try again. Motors with severe rust may take up to 3 months to come loose.
Water caused the rust and will also disolve it, works better than penetrating oil or acetone.
I recently did a Model A motor that was rusted solid, after a month, I got all the pistons and valves out, plus got the rings and gudgeon pins out, no problem.
Got this info out of a Aussie hot rod mag and believe me it works, you will be amazed
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Old 06-21-2020, 10:53 AM   #24
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Went back to the well,the water is dirt cheap . 2 8BA builders,truck bellhousing.Got a degree in banger engines,now I'm going to V8 school.

I do believe that lower pan in the picture is one of those 'nice-to-have' truck pans with the removable clutch/flywheel cover, like this one. DD


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Old 06-21-2020, 11:10 AM   #25
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Got the full truck lash up,that drives me to the T5, figuring open driveshaft and 9" rear end
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Old 06-21-2020, 11:26 AM   #26
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Got the full truck lash up,that drives me to the T5, figuring open driveshaft and 9" rear end

You'll LOVE that T5, especially if you're CAREFUL about gear RATIO selection. Using the 'wrong' gear set can certainly mess-up an otherwise WONDERFUL and successful swap experience. It's too easy to assemble the 'perfect' combination with just a little research. DD
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Old 06-21-2020, 01:14 PM   #27
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Im hip on the ratio selection and admire the conversion you did.
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Old 06-21-2020, 01:20 PM   #28
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Chuck those engines into a tank of water and leave them to soak for a month, then try a big block of wood and tap the pistons. If they still wont budge, then put it back into the water another month and try again. Motors with severe rust may take up to 3 months to come loose.
Water caused the rust and will also disolve it, works better than penetrating oil or acetone.
I recently did a Model A motor that was rusted solid, after a month, I got all the pistons and valves out, plus got the rings and gudgeon pins out, no problem.
Got this info out of a Aussie hot rod mag and believe me it works, you will be amazed
Thanks for the tip Viv...the 59's will get done but they have fallen to the back of the line.Plenty of time to soak them.
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Old 06-21-2020, 01:34 PM   #29
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Im hip on the ratio selection and admire the conversion you did.

Thank you....MUCH appreciated! DD
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Old 06-21-2020, 01:44 PM   #30
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Just my sugestion; before going bonkers, 55 gal drum put block in with lye caustic
some water fire wood light fire some "Jack" and "Bud" sit back till the steam comes out
enjoy, cheap, nothing to lose, with some sticks mixed with charcoal brick'kets. Lots of
heat is your friend. Pistons just may fall out. old saying "keep the fire burning" this is
no joke It works and works for cheap. Then dissembled and pretty clean have it thermo
clean'ed comes back pure cast iron: Note the Jack and Bud = women can see through
concrete, well proven at my age LOL try it sam
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Old 06-21-2020, 02:45 PM   #31
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The lye solution will destroy your front and rear main seal retainers, I believe.
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Old 06-21-2020, 03:14 PM   #32
Graeme / New Zealand
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Betcha Mart could save that motor
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Old 06-21-2020, 04:27 PM   #33
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Dont know Mart..Im a one trick pony,done this kind of crap for a living the last forty years and am that special kind of stupid that also does it for a hobby.
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Old 06-21-2020, 05:36 PM   #34
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The lye solution will destroy your front and rear main seal retainers, I believe.
No; boiling solution; boiling without crank, bearings, seal retainers, cam shaft and cam bearings even rod bearings oil pump all the basic stuff....sam
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Old 06-21-2020, 06:13 PM   #35
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I just bust the pistons out with a 5X air hammer and a 401 chisel bit after using a small hole saw or large drill bit to start relieving some of the aluminum there. A person just has to be careful to stay away from the cylinder walls & con rods but they will break out pretty quick after you get used to it. Once a few big chunks break out, the piston & rod can easily be pulled out.
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Old 06-21-2020, 10:47 PM   #36
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Dont know Mart..Im a one trick pony,done this kind of crap for a living the last forty years and am that special kind of stupid that also does it for a hobby.
Mart is from the UK and posts here and did a You-tube series on rebuilding his "crusty" knackered/seized flathead. Shows from getting it stripped down to the point where he could run it in his 34 cpe. A budget rebuild by his own admission on a block that some would have considered a "boat anchor". Worth looking at it for the entertainment value as well.

GB
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Old 06-21-2020, 11:38 PM   #37
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Budget build is my mantra..typical cheap ass ford owner..aint nothing cheap about a 34 coupe..
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Old 06-22-2020, 12:03 AM   #38
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This method I saw online from some Aussie hillbilly. One rainy day I did two stuck blocks and kept 16 cylinders blazing for about 4 hours. I ran out of diesel fuel after a bit so started burning paint thinner mixed with marvel mystery oil. When that started running out I added brake fluid and carb cleaner mix and when that ran out I drank the last of the jack daniels and got all 16 pistons out with a 5 lb sledge and a roll of 2" wide lead flashing about 3" in diameter. Conformed beautifully to the piston's crown.
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:03 AM   #39
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Looks like she fired up just fine GB
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Old 07-16-2020, 08:06 AM   #40
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Right bank of the best 8BA,no cracks in the bad areas..some stud leakage but I figure sealing them will take care of it.On to the left side..The rusty 59AB's are still soaking,if nothing else they will become donors to convert the 8BA to center outlet heads and front distributor...I've heard that is possible,any side effects?
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