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Old 06-01-2021, 10:15 PM   #1
sugarmaker
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Default 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Barn folks,
I am fairly new to the Ford Barn Forum. Sent here years ago by a Ford friend. I am in the early stages of a new to me project that I will need much help and guidance on in the future. I have posted a few pictures of this truck I was looking at. Today with the help of several friends I decided to secure this truck. Hopefully over the next few weeks we can get it home and start to look at it in more detail.

I had been looking for a project. I found one!

I tend to write a lot and post a lot of pictures I hope both will be ok? Being active on other forums for years I try to check in almost once a day.

Ok back to the project.
The truck was advertised in a small newsletter for our local antique tractor club. I called the number and went and looked at it several weeks ago. It was a local truck used in a water well drilling business. Today 6-1-21 I decided this should be my next Ford project. The plans will develop as we learn more about these!


Having only owned Ford trucks since the mid 70's it checked that box.
This 32 AAB dump truck has been stored up on blocks since about 1952 or 1953. It has 65K miles on the odometer. Its pretty complete and original except for maybe the turn signals and the headlights.


I am brand new to these vintage trucks. It appealed to me. Two other friends looked it over and give a nod of approval. The owner and I came to agreement on the price and hopefully it will be able to get out and see the light of day soon.


The dump bed is starting to grow on me. It was a "work truck"! It is a hydraulic lift. The dump bed is a Galion. Tag is on the right side rail: Might be a little hard to read? I thought it might be a GarWood from other truck pictures. I was wrong. It has a rounded inside corner. The GarWoods are sharp in the bed corners.




This truck is not running,it does roll, on some poor old tires, engine is stuck, dump bed is not hooked up or attached to the frame and the list goes on and on! But that's where we start! This truck falls into the category of Barn find, which should fit the Ford Barn nicely too!

Enough for tonight. Your comments are always welcome!

Regards,
Chris

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Old 06-01-2021, 10:25 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1932 AAB Duce, Dulley, Dump

Wow Looks awesome! Good luck!!!


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Old 06-01-2021, 11:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1932 AAB Duce, Dulley, Dump

That's fantastic! Great post on a great find. Please keep us updated.
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Old 06-01-2021, 11:16 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1932 AAB Duce, Dulley, Dump

Good find. Have fun with it. Be fun to watch progress.
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Old 06-01-2021, 11:19 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1932 AAB Duce, Dulley, Dump

What a charming score! I like trucks a lot, and the dump takes it to the next level of cool. Chris you've written a great posting.

My sarcastic side screams "get a tire sponsor." Sorry.

I bet those turn signals were comforting for the operator even if they aren't proper or pleasing. Rear visibility is near impossible in this rig, and you see there's no passenger outside mirror. I guess all the roads it was riding were single lane?

Well done you.
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Old 06-01-2021, 11:29 PM   #6
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Keep in mind when making changes what you will be using it for. If your plan is to scream down the highway and go to wallyworld or to go to some shows, tool around and have fun. But I have a feeling you know that.


Great truck as is! Cosmetically. Nothing beyound just cleaning up. Wiring and little stuff might need attention.


Might be more difficult with what you have, but their are resources and guys here that know every bolt.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269580
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Old 06-02-2021, 12:39 AM   #7
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Default Re: 1932 AAB Duce, Dulley, Dump

Nice.It even or appears to have the original evasive radiator cap.
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:51 AM   #8
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Default Re: 1932 AAB Deuce, Dulley, Dump

Ford Folks,
Thanks for the kind words and great resource information. The rough plan for this unit is
1. Get it out where people can see it. (Hope there will be some interest)
2. Service it to be running and moving/stopping safely.
3. Try to have some fun along the way meeting new folks and opening some new doors in life.
4. Trailer it to some events for show and tell. Its a good story.
5. If I could drive it to our local antique equipment shows within 40 miles within the next 2 years and not break the bank It will have met my expectations.
6. Meet some new friends that may help me along the way.
7. Long term goals = None Its just a day at a time.
8. Maybe the kids, grandkids, or great grandkids will have some fun with the truck at some point, even if its just to set in the shade next to it.

Lets see we may have some more pictures too?
The truck was last inspected around 1951 or 1952. Looks like Jan 31st. I was born Jan 3 52.:


Yep it has a roof:


Rears, yes tires will be on the list but not for a while.




Turn signal switch:


Cluster:


signals: These are kind of neat!


I believe this is the correct type B engine:


Ok must go work on something in the shop!

Regards,
Chris

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Old 06-02-2021, 06:08 AM   #9
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

I have a pair of.double-sided hooded arrow signal lights. Wont mount.them, just wanted a pair.
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Old 06-02-2021, 08:28 AM   #10
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

The Ford archives photo below shows what your truck's chassis looked like when new before the cab, firewall, hood, fenders, etc. were added.
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:07 AM   #11
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

That is a great find, I wouldn’t mind having a dump truck but space and money preclude that from ever happening. Do keep the pictures coming it will be interesting to see the project progress.
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:24 AM   #12
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

That is an amazing find! It is in perfect condition. Holy Cow, you really scored on the truck. Chuck's Trucks in Conneticut, Bob Selzam in NJ for big truck parts. I'll be following your thread.
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:49 AM   #13
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Try a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone to soak the cylinders/valves with to free up the engine. Time is your friend, don't rush the process. Great find. I'm a fan of big trucks so I'll be watching as your progress.
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:57 AM   #14
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Really cool truck, hope you don't plan on too much "restoration" it looks pretty killer as it sits!!!! Will be following your progress with it for sure
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:34 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Looks like you have a "Galion" dump body. I have a 1937 Dump with a Garwood body with power take off to run the hydraulic bed. Same wheel base as yours (131in). NICE BARN FIND!!!! Let me know if you need any "pointers". My 1937 has 35,000 miles. Was a truck to haul garbage to the dump. Was owned by a bank in NYC that had property North of NYC.
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:29 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidG View Post
The Ford archives photo below shows what your truck's chassis looked like when new before the cab, firewall, hood, fenders, etc. were added.
David,
That is a great picture! I would love to have a large picture like that for the wall!
Have seen lots of folks with frames looking like new again.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 51504bat View Post
Try a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone to soak the cylinders/valves with to free up the engine. Time is your friend, don't rush the process. Great find. I'm a fan of big trucks so I'll be watching as your progress.
Thanks, I will probably try this solution. In my previous travels in the stuck engine world I have done that. It did not help and the engine needed to be torn down and reworked to get it back in running order. I did have a 55 Crown that I got the engine unstuck and it burned a quart of oil every 200 miles! It now is in a friends Crown Vic after he did a complete rebuild.
I will be as gentle as possible.

Wonderful positive helpful comments from all I do appreciate the response. Now if the wife would appreciate it as much we would be golden!

Just some other random shots if duplicates sorry:








I am going to need input and I will ask some newbee questions. Like this one:
What is the small selector lever on the left side of the shift lever just under the knob? It has a rod connected going down the left side of the shift lever. Is this a two speed range selector or something??


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:52 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Don't know for sure on the Ford but on a '33 chevy 1 1/2 toner I used to have it was a reverse lock out. Had to lift it to reach reverse.
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4t8v8 View Post
Don't know for sure on the Ford but on a '33 chevy 1 1/2 toner I used to have it was a reverse lock out. Had to lift it to reach reverse.
Well that sure could be it? I have seen these on Allis WC long shifter transmissions.
We will see if others confirm that too. Thanks
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Old 06-02-2021, 06:13 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

That's a nice truck Chris, and should be a fun project for you getting that back in drivable condition.
I bought one similar to that about 15 years ago. It was also a 131" wb, but had a stake bed rather than dump. Wound up selling it about 5 years ago. Had too many other projects going, and no time to work on that one. I could post some pics if you'd like to see your trucks brother

PS, will post pics when I can go back into my old computer and find them.
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Old 06-02-2021, 06:16 PM   #21
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This small rod on the side of the shift lever is for reverse. Use your thumb on the little lever and pull up and at the same time push the shift lever to the right and then back toward the seat and that selects reverse. Push the lever to the left and forward is creeper low, straight back toward the seat is first, push the lever forward to neutral, then to the right, then forward and that gives second, then straight back toward the seat and your in third. When in neutral, by pulling up on the little lever on the left side of the shift lever allows further travel to the right to engage reverse. You will need to double clutch during shifting except for reverse and starting from dead stop.. My father had a 33 ton and half with the V8. I remember it well. You will enjoy. Nice truck.
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Old 06-02-2021, 07:19 PM   #22
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

W-O-W !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!
I LOVE IT!!!


Post all the pictures you can this will be a GREAT project!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-02-2021, 07:34 PM   #23
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Very very nice. I use the dump on mine often. You'll find it useful to have around. Great find.
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:05 PM   #24
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Folks,
Thank all of you for the responses! Obviously there are still a lot of old Ford lovers out there. Bill OH, Thanks for the explanation of the reverse lock out thumb lever! Its cute as a button! My Allis tractors have a spring loaded feature to keep you from going into reverse too. Also the same shift "H" pattern. So that will be easy to remember!

By the way in my life these are some of the other projects! I hope you dont mind me sharing. I can go a little over the top some times!
1954 Allis-Chalmers WD45 that I did a (RCP) Refurb, Clean and Paint. The mounted 3 bottom plows are the same ones I used when I was a kid.


A friend on my WD45 at plow day:


Also just built a new shop since this time last year. Still much to do but made it through winter OK. This is one of the reasons I was looking for a new project too. Ok I like to show it off. So far I like it a lot! Should be a nice place to work on the 32 also!




The wife caught me actually trying to do some work on the shop:


Added a jib crane during the build:




another Allis WD:


My home away from home!


1/2 mile of PEX in the floor:


The wife and I:


some concrete:


Working on the inside now: still lots to do . This will be the home for the 32.
I have a spot picked out.


We have some winter too was happy to be dried in for first snow last fall:


interior walls (two zones of heat):


Stairs to the loft:


Some of my toys in the shop. Yes I will make room for the 32 for sure. I have a spot picked out already!


R38 in ceiling:


cont:
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:06 PM   #25
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Folks cont:
Yes I have a 53 Ford Jubilee also and a F250 Super Crew to keep the dump truck company


Utility room with boiler and half bath:


White liner panels for the ceiling and 3 foot up the walls:


lighting and jib with 2 ton Dayton hoist:


Brought back this Allis F40 fork lift from the brink of being scraped. Grandson the master electrician on the job running it:


Rough cut Hemlock for the interior above the white steel on the walls:


Current look: It is 40 x 64. 10 foot eaves, 6/12 outside roof pitch with 3/12 inside in the high bay area. Loft is 28 x 14 x 7'2".


Yea I know picture overload sorry!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan View Post
That's a nice truck Chris, and should be a fun project for you getting that back in drivable condition.
I bought one similar to that about 15 years ago. It was also a 131" wb, but had a stake bed rather than dump. Wound up selling it about 5 years ago. Had too many other projects going, and no time to work on that one. I could post some pics if you'd like to see your trucks brother
I would love to see the brother of my proposed truck. I say that because till its in the shop, I am never ready to call it mine.
So did you get yours drive able? Biggest challenges??
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:54 PM   #27
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BEAUTIFUL SHOP...… just takes my breath away...…..
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:04 AM   #28
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And radiant floor heating. What a dream that would be for me. If I have to be on concrete at least it should be warm. Please keep posting your progress.
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:30 AM   #29
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And radiant floor heating. What a dream that would be for me. If I have to be on concrete at least it should be warm. Please keep posting your progress.
Amen to that! Heck, any kind of heat would be welcome... And I too am a lover of the heavier Ford trucks. I have owned no fewer than 25 of them over the years. First was a '28 AA 1 1'/2 ton when I was 19 (born in '53). I have exhibited Trucks, tractors, and Hit n Miss engines at Our show in August at Lynden Wa every year for 34 years. Here's my '32.
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Old 06-03-2021, 03:38 AM   #30
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Your shop and truck are amazing!!!!......Great tractor collection!!!.....to find a dump truck without a dented roof is awesome!!! Great post, I’ll be looking forward to reading/seeing more....... Mark
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Old 06-03-2021, 07:07 AM   #31
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Thanks Guys!
The shop is a dream I have had for 20 years or more. Being of similar age as Mr Sisson (I was born in early 52) and of reasonable health I decided to take the plunge and just build it! I have not regreted it yet. Still gobs of work to do on the inside. I already have enough "junk" as the wife calls it to fill it too!
GB, Man your 32 looks awesome! I think these look great with the flat bed. I see your headlights look just like mine too. So I assume this was a typical change to go up to the sealed beam headlights? Your rims and tires look awesome! Now Im jealous!!

Off to the shop to help Jim work on his 29 Doodle Tug. We got it started for the first time in maybe 20 years?? John, The Model A guy, provide the parts and details for the final testing and start up. We think this is a factory tug that moved product? Today we evaluate why the axle has moved forward on the left side of the rear end. Also to get the battery box and new battery in place, and attach the seat, and secure the muffler and put in a gas shut off .......:

A glimpse:






Just added a pintle hitch for him to attach his nice wagon to it!


Yea he need to get on here and start his own thread! He has a 29 Doodle bug also,Its next to come over to the shop. We are trying to get this stuff ready for the July 16th Pioneer Steam and Gas Engine Show in Sagertown PA featuring Ford Tractors. Hoping to have the debut of the 32 there also.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-03-2021, 07:17 AM   #32
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Wow Sugarmaker, I have a 50 X 60 shop and have been pretty fortunate and happy to have my shop and all that's in it. You've managed to make me jealous with your shop, sans the heated floor.....Give me A/C as here in No Fla "Heat" is only needed for "MAYBE" 20 to 30 days max! If that. But the heat and humidity 80% of the time is my enemy. AND yellow flies & Mosquitos. Fantastic collection you have there!!!
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Old 06-03-2021, 09:22 AM   #33
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That Tug looks like one of the little trucks used at a airport. But, it’s to early for that. Doesn’t look to be “homemade” either...... Mark
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Old 06-03-2021, 05:27 PM   #34
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Sugarmaker,
That is one nice truck. The condition is amazing considering that dump trucks usually have a very hard life.
I've got lots of parts for 32 BB trucks. Let me know when you find you need something.
Good luck,
John
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Old 06-03-2021, 09:48 PM   #35
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Rock,
Sounds like you have a nice shop also! Mine is not yet organized, maybe never will be??

Flatford8,
Not sure of the history of the tug, It started right up easily today after Jim completed the gas line and installed the battery! Still have to look at the 1 inch axle movement issue.

John,
Thanks, I will probably be talking with you at some point.

We set a date of next Wednesday to bring the 32 home.
Should be able to pull it into the shop on the trailer and take a deep breath. I will have some pictures of the move for sure.
Regards,
Chris

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Old 06-03-2021, 11:07 PM   #36
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Sooo... how's the truck going. Nice pictures. I'm a old tractor hit/miss guy too. Shop pictures are neat.
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Old 06-04-2021, 02:24 AM   #37
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I'm really glad to see that the truck has been bought by someone who has a good grasp of the situation. Too often these trucks are bought by a newcomer who thinks it can be driven for hours at highway speeds and will drive like a modern car or pickup. You, Sugarmaker, have a very nice shop and plenty of space to look after that old survivor. Good luck with it and always bear in mind often the best policy is to do as little as possible to it.
I look forward to seeing how the project progresses.
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Old 06-04-2021, 07:12 AM   #38
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Tinker, Mart, Folks,
Will try to get some pictures as the 32 comes out of the garage next week. The idea of doing less fits right in with getting to this age in life too! Great suggestion!
Lets see maybe a couple pictures I havent posted yet. Dont be suprized ifsomething comes up that was already talked about.
The seating:


Well to me the back of the seat looks original. I guess is that the bottom is from a car, because I have seen that theses are typically a split front seat. Someone is making new repro seat spring sections.
Anyway so do you remove the seat to fill the tank?? Just shows how much I dont know about these vintage machines.
Any seat info would help too.
It looks like it is VERY well worn! from 20 years of service.

The side mount. I think this is a neat feature on these too. I got a picture of the chassis from David G and it shows that the spare could have also been under the rear of the frame.


Regards,
Chris

Last edited by sugarmaker; 06-04-2021 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 06-04-2021, 10:29 AM   #39
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Here is a picture of the seat bottom.
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Old 06-04-2021, 09:40 PM   #40
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Bob C,
Thank you for posting this picture of the seat and gas tank. Was the passenger seat hinged? My seat was probably worn out and replaced, with a full seat of some type? May not even be Ford??
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Chris
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Old 06-05-2021, 09:51 AM   #41
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Chris,


As Bob C has noted, your front seat cushion is a replacement as the original was in two sections, each with its own wood frame to which the springs are attached. Neither was hinged or otherwise attached to the tank but rather their opening in the center of their wood frames fit snugly over raised areas stamped into the top of the gas tank. All of the '32 commercial vehicle and big truck front seat bottoms share that characteristic with the exception panel deliveries.
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Old 06-05-2021, 06:20 PM   #42
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Just my 4 cents; first two cent thought is to take the radiator cap and put it in the vault until you can keep an eye on it. Don't let it out of your sight.
second two cents would be to make it functionally perfect without disturbing any of the patina or age or character markings. It needs to be that well used work truck (but running and driving perfectly).
I had a friend who took an original untouched model T and rebuilt the running gear to perfection without disturbing any of the grease, dirt or rust on the engine, trans or rear end. Took extra time to perserve that but he has a perfect driving time capsule.
Congrats on your project!
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Old 06-05-2021, 07:40 PM   #43
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Just my 4 cents; first two cent thought is to take the radiator cap and put it in the vault until you can keep an eye on it. Don't let it out of your sight.
second two cents would be to make it functionally perfect without disturbing any of the patina or age or character markings. It needs to be that well used work truck (but running and driving perfectly).
I had a friend who took an original untouched model T and rebuilt the running gear to perfection without disturbing any of the grease, dirt or rust on the engine, trans or rear end. Took extra time to perserve that but he has a perfect driving time capsule.
Congrats on your project!
Floyd... you put that acrossed perfectly. I am in complete agreement with you. I think the singer Tom Waits once said "you musta read my mail" .
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Old 06-05-2021, 08:42 PM   #44
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Further to the good advice given about the radiator cap, you would think that since every '32 standard commercial vehicle and big truck came with one they would not be the equivalent of hen's teeth. By the end of the '32 model run there more than 111,000 of those caps in circulation. Where they've all gone is anybody's guess, but I suspect most were simply lost or misplaced or left behind at gas stations. In any event, when you get your truck up and running carry along a reproduction passenger car cap and when you park your truck out in public and leave the one presently on your truck inside the locked cab wrapped in a rag. They have a habit of taking flight if left in place on unattended commercial vehicles and big trucks and to replace it requires lots of luck and serious money.

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Old 06-05-2021, 09:15 PM   #45
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Folks thanks for the hints on the 32 radiator cap I would not have realized that.
What would be a good average value for one of these rad caps?
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Chris
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Old 06-06-2021, 07:44 AM   #46
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Between $400 and $800
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Old 06-06-2021, 02:01 PM   #47
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Yikes! I had no clue they would be that pricey? I would have guessed maybe $25?? A little out of touch on this end.
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Chris
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Old 06-06-2021, 02:35 PM   #48
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I think the problem with that 32 commercial radiator cap is that it looks like a plain ole garden variety sorta model A look and they never achieved any special status until a person goes to replace one and finds out they are 1 of 1. Case in point is a friend of mine is an expert on early V8 Fords, knows all the part numbers by heart ,has enough NOS parts to build a new '34, . He is a truck guru. I was there one day when he was sorting through a bucket of "stuff" and was about to throw away "an old probably model A radiator cap when I saw it. I screamed "stop, go get a white glove and carefully pick up that cap and put it in a safety deposit box"! He was going to give it to me or scrap it. True story and probably the same story for the other 100,000+ caps that went missing.
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Old 06-06-2021, 09:42 PM   #49
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Floyd,
That is a neat story. And your right, I gave the cap no mind what so ever. I will surely give it a better look when I get to the truck again! Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
This might be the best picture I have of the rad top, cap. Looks like it may have some dents??

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Chris
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Old 06-07-2021, 01:59 AM   #50
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Yikes! I had no clue they would be that pricey? I would have guessed maybe $25?? A little out of touch on this end.
Regards,
Chris

Welcome to the '32 Ford world.
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Old 06-07-2021, 06:44 AM   #51
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Folks,
I will try to check in in the morning and in the evening as I begin to learn more about the world some of you live in. I was looking at the picture of the dump bed and thinking about the notch cut in the lowest board on the headboard on the passengers side. I could not figure this out as to why it was not complete. Then it hit me. This truck was a well drillers he carried at tank of water and some pipe. I think the notch was to hold the, longer than bed, pipes in place? What do you think?


You guys got me worried about the radiator cap! what other surprises do you have for me??

Hope things are good in Ford land!

Just some notes about me: Currently driving a 2015 F250 Super Duty 6.7 Power Stroke. Lariat package. Its my daily driver and play toy hauler.
Wife Cheryl has 2016 Edge
Have 53 Ford Jubilee which does most of the work around here while the orange tractors get washed and set inside!
Also a Ford LGT100 garden tractor that is in need of much work.
Have several Cub Cadets including a 147R and several implements that can be pulled as a train at shows.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-07-2021, 06:57 AM   #52
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Folks,
I do have a few more random pictues:










If I have posted duplicates sorry.


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-07-2021, 09:49 AM   #53
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Looks like the engine dust pans are missing or at least the left from your pic.The head lights have been replaced.The correct air cleaner is also a tough one to find. I see it does not have the assy dualtemp (fuel/temp)gauge.The few I have found were in the big trucks.Here is a pic of what it looks like.
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Old 06-07-2021, 08:55 PM   #54
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deuce lover,
Thanks for the information. I knew about the headlights. Didnt know about the dust pan??
Will need to get some more pictures Wednesday!
That gauge is a nice one!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-07-2021, 10:38 PM   #55
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Sheldon,

Early and mid-year '32 commercial vehicles and big trucks did not have any air cleaner or silencer as standard equipment, only the passenger car fours (and V8s) were so equipped. The first standard equipment attachment to big truck carburetors was a backfire arrestor (BB-9600) in early September (whose survival rate seems to be extremely low). Three oil bath air cleaners were released for service starting in June. The first, BB-9625, intended primarily for trucks, was followed in October by B-9625, intended for all '32 vehicles. Both of those oil bath air cleaners were mounted on the firewall. Lastly, late in the model year, a cylinder-head-mounted oil bath air cleaner (B-9625-B) was released for service for all fours, following the release for service of a cylinder-head-mounted oil bath air cleaner for V8s in October.


For obvious practical reasons, I would recommend having one of those alternatives on any '32 big truck.
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Old 06-07-2021, 11:08 PM   #56
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Thanks for that info.I presume that those big trucks had the dust pans?
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Old 06-08-2021, 05:58 AM   #57
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David, Deuce Lover, Folks,
Being a newbie, I will have a lot of catching up to do on items related to 32's. Also some research on some of these items. Have to look for the books David recommended too.

Here is what we worked on yesterday. Jim B's Doodle tug. Replaced U bolts on the right side spring perch and moved that side back 1 inch to re-align the axle. Torch and a lot of ground time.


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-08-2021, 12:36 PM   #58
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Sugarmaker
There is an ad in the swap meet section right now for a set of "commercial" headlights if you need a pair!!!! 06/08/2021 at 1:35pm est
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Old 06-08-2021, 01:48 PM   #59
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Unfortunately they sold quickly and they were good ones. I guess they are a little bit like the radiator caps, not in price, but in availability, despite over 222,000 having been produced. There's always the option of painting the buckets of a pair of passenger car head lamps as they are otherwise identical and there are lots of '32 passenger car lamps that have survived.
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Old 06-08-2021, 02:02 PM   #60
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Sheldon,


Ford designated them pans (engine) R.H. (BB-6775) and L.H. (BB-6776), not to be confused with pan (oil) assembly, basic part number 6675. I refer to them as engine splash pans. BB-6775 was not provided as a service part but rather the parts catalogs state that they are to be made from the B-6775 passenger car/commercial vehicle four-cylinder pan, which involved trimming the B-prefix pan. Unfortunately I do not have a photo of the BB-prefix pans to share.
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Old 06-08-2021, 03:20 PM   #61
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I learned to drive in my grandfathers '32 BB stake body truck. It worked on a farm with no air cleaner. That is probably why it went in for an overhaul about every five years. The brakes were terrible for a skinny 15 year old. Took both feet to slow it down on that hill in the orchard. With a load of fire wood, my grandfather had to back up one hill, maybe because reverse was a lower gear than low gear; maybe to maintain gravity fuel flow to the carb.
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Old 06-08-2021, 09:14 PM   #62
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Sugarmaker
There is an ad in the swap meet section right now for a set of "commercial" headlights if you need a pair!!!! 06/08/2021 at 1:35pm est
Rock,
I did attempt to secure those headlights, but as most times a day late and a couple dollars short. Alan was nice enough to get back to me and let me know.

Tomorrow the 32 should be coming home unless something strange happens. I will try to get some pictures. Friend Jim is going to meet me to help sucure the truck and the bed for transport.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-08-2021, 09:16 PM   #63
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I learned to drive in my grandfathers '32 BB stake body truck. It worked on a farm with no air cleaner. That is probably why it went in for an overhaul about every five years. The brakes were terrible for a skinny 15 year old. Took both feet to slow it down on that hill in the orchard. With a load of fire wood, my grandfather had to back up one hill, maybe because reverse was a lower gear than low gear; maybe to maintain gravity fuel flow to the carb.
That is a cool but scary story. Ok So maybe I won't drive it that much!
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Chris
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Old 06-09-2021, 08:03 AM   #64
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I learned to drive in my grandfathers '32 BB stake body truck. It worked on a farm with no air cleaner. That is probably why it went in for an overhaul about every five years. The brakes were terrible for a skinny 15 year old. Took both feet to slow it down on that hill in the orchard. With a load of fire wood, my grandfather had to back up one hill, maybe because reverse was a lower gear than low gear; maybe to maintain gravity fuel flow to the carb.

Didn't '32's have a fuel pump? Or just on the cars, not the big trucks?
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Old 06-09-2021, 11:54 AM   #65
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They ('32s) all had fuel pumps.
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Old 06-09-2021, 01:17 PM   #66
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They ('32s) all had fuel pumps.
Guess I remembered that fuel flow idea from the Model T.
So it was the lower gear needed to get him up the hill with a full load.
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Old 06-09-2021, 06:28 PM   #67
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The lever and rod on the shifter is the reverse lockout. Pulling it up towards the gearshift knob allows you to push the shifter to the left and down (not up I think) to engage the reverse gear. You can try this without the engine running. You should be able to make an H pattern for 1-2-3-4 gears and then add the reverse position by pulling the lever up.

You have a nice truck. Virtually all of the 1932 BB trucks came with a 4-cylinder engine.
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Old 06-09-2021, 06:50 PM   #68
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To add to Model51 last sentence, given the relatively late release of the V8 engines for installation in big trucks, of the 74,978 '32 model big trucks produced world wide, only 3,682 were V8 powered.
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Old 06-11-2021, 06:24 AM   #69
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Folks,
Good morning! We have been busy here! Summer and a new Ford in the family. Also 49 years ago our oldest son was born. Going to spend some time with him today too!
Back to this old AAB truck, Wow and I in learning mode! Thanks to all for the responses, suggestions and recommendations. Based on other threads on othwer forums, you probably should get some popcorn make your self comfortable and enjoy the ride in this case the FORD ride!
Wednesday June 9 the 32 was loaded and picked up from the garage it had been stored in.
Some pictures have friend Jim and or the previous owner of the dump truck. (Larry). I am the old guy in the orange (thats from another forum).
The 32 sees the light of day for first time in several decades!


We used the 8K Warn winch to gently tug the 32 from its home onto my car hauler.






Larry and his wife and my 32.


Ready for the short journey home to Albion. (about 25 miles)


The ride home was uneventful. The 32 liked it's hair blowing in the breeze!

Not knowing the curb weight it pulled about like one of my heavier Allis tractors at 5000 lbs. I have not looked up specs on weight yet.
Ecpect to have the PA title in 8 weeks. Larry wrote me a receipt for the cost on a book that he found in the truck that must have been from the late 40's! Very cool!
Much more to come just need to load some additional pictures in imgur.

I have been playing with it every chance I can.

By the way the radiator cap rode home in the center console of the 2015 F250 SuperCrew!

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 06:40 AM   #70
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Folks,
I will have these little items, questions and things that I should go do the research on but I am human and will probably ask first rather than do the work. I am lazy some times.
Here is one. So the drivers door handle was some what longer and pointer than the passengers side? Behind the seat we found the one that matches the passenger side (shorter stubbier. Ok which one is correct? I have changed to the stubby one, they match and it seems happy there too. So I could be wrong. I did a google search and did not really get a visual match for either one. I will get some pictures. Or if you have pictures and want to teach me that would be ok too.

This is what we found behind the seat, and I installed on the drivers side door.


We found other goodies too! Along with 16 gallons of mouse nests in the seat bottom

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 06:46 AM   #71
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Body lines matching on the door and cab, good sign, most doors would be drooping. That color combination is the same as my tudor and would look good repainted as most trucks were red or black.
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Old 06-11-2021, 07:39 AM   #72
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I had noticed that the left side outside door handle had been replaced. What you show in your latest photo is the original version, which you've now reinstalled. If any of your inside handles need replacement, please me know I have some good originals with patina that are yours for the asking.


I'm looking forward to a photo of the right side of your engine compartment.
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Old 06-11-2021, 10:52 AM   #73
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Looks like an original mirror bracket also, take care of it.
If you need chassis parts such as front axle, brakes and transmission
a lot were the same from 1930-34.
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Old 06-11-2021, 11:41 AM   #74
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A good bath, a tune up and a new old seat cover and you are ready for the show circuit!
Congrats.
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Old 06-11-2021, 01:36 PM   #75
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I don't care what anyone says; that is in NICE shape!
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Old 06-11-2021, 06:11 PM   #76
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All those small items, radiator cap, door knobs, window cranks, side and rear mirrors and license plate brackets, rear stop light assembly, take a look and make sure they are secured and by themselves are worth a small fortune! Man oh man what a treasure!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! I would be sleeping out in the barn all night with it. WOWEE!!!!!
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Old 06-11-2021, 07:51 PM   #77
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Body lines matching on the door and cab, good sign, most doors would be drooping. That color combination is the same as my tudor and would look good repainted as most trucks were red or black.
Jim,
Thanks for the notes on the truck. Not being a good judge of these I felt it was pretty good. I have seen a lot of vehicles that I have run away from. This old 32 looked pretty good. And Cheryl likes the color. Which to my eye is a teal (green/ blue).
Most folks that are also not experts think its in pretty good shape.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 07:54 PM   #78
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I had noticed that the left side outside door handle had been replaced. What you show in your latest photo is the original version, which you've now reinstalled. If any of your inside handles need replacement, please me know I have some good originals with patina that are yours for the asking.


I'm looking forward to a photo of the right side of your engine compartment.
David,
I will get that picture for you! Thanks for the offer on the hardware too. Very generous of you.
You ask about some features on the truck. I will try to get back to all them but if I dont please remind me too. I did look under the visor and it has a brace in the center. I believe that was in reference to when the truck may have actually been assembled.

So it makes me wonder about the guy that owned it. Here is my story.
The door original door handle was damaged or broke. HE went and found the pointed handle that fit and worked . Later found a correct handle and placed it behind the seat for me to put in 80 years later???
The new handle fit and works fine!
Note there is some door damage at theis drivers handle area. Slight push in of the door metal around the handle.

Question. I need door checks (to keep doors from swinging too far). I will research for those.
Regards,
Chris

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Old 06-11-2021, 07:55 PM   #79
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Looks like an original mirror bracket also, take care of it.
If you need chassis parts such as front axle, brakes and transmission
a lot were the same from 1930-34.
Bob,
I will try to tuck that away in the old memory bank too.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:09 PM   #80
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A good bath, a tune up and a new old seat cover and you are ready for the show circuit!
Congrats.
Floyd,
The bath. I am afraid to! It has not seen water in 70 years.
On the seats: The back looks to be original but the bottom is not.
I checked with my local upholstery guy and he said the original material looked like his samples of "truck and Bus seat material.
He had a black and a dark blue material that I liked.
So I will ask a question, and I know everyone has a different view of things. Would a guy get the seats back to some like new condition?? That is what I feel is the thing to do.
So the seat back springs are salvageable. and recoverable. Clean and adde a wooden 1/4 inch backer board to attach and stiffen the springs was the suggestion for the seat shop.
The bottoms he suggested buying reproduction spring sets and he could cover them the same. (split seat) Looked in Snyders and saw some 32 springs I think for $140 each??
So I have this seat base with pretty good springs. Dont think I am going to use it. (Could take it apart and maybe build the split seats but a lot of moneking around and might not be close to being correct.

So what would you do with seating up grade? I dont think its going to cut it for me to use the very worn and very sad wrong bottom seat. If I get this drivable in the future I want my old butt to be comfy!

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:21 PM   #81
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I don't care what anyone says; that is in NICE shape!
Tubman,
Thanks for the comments! Man I am trying to learn a whole new language.
I repaired the left front hood latch last night so that the knob on the spring would not pull through. It was worn. I was very surprised that the nuts on the screws loosened and I was able to remove it and gently close up the worn slot by moving the metal on both sides closer. Minor enlargement of the screw holes so the bolt pattern would align with the car. This could have fallen off on a road trip or been easily lost. Not a expert on any of these items but years of doing other refurb work, gives me some skills to correct and repair items if at all possible.

One thing I kind of like on a unit that your not going to strip and paint is that the time to fix this one item was maybe a hour. but required no real clean up or paint. Original hardware went right back in after cleaning the threads and apply a little lube.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:37 PM   #82
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I can't help myself; here is a picture of a "deuce, dually ... truck" I found (it is European).
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Old 06-11-2021, 09:01 PM   #83
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My comment about "new-old" seat cover would be to find some period correct for the truck material and use that IF you cannot find old correct material that is somewhat worn but not worn out. I agree that worn out/torn/ ripped/ stained material is not acceptable. You want it to look nice and inviting but somewhat lived in to go with the patina of the truck. This might be the hardest part to getting the truck show ready.
Be brave and give him a good bath. Then you will be done with the exterior "restoration"!
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Old 06-11-2021, 10:23 PM   #84
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I can't help myself; here is a picture of a "deuce, dually ... truck" I found (it is European).
tubman,
Ok that was not what I was expecting! Someone had way to much time on there hands that summer! Wow! I can see some similarities!
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Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 10:25 PM   #85
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My comment about "new-old" seat cover would be to find some period correct for the truck material and use that IF you cannot find old correct material that is somewhat worn but not worn out. I agree that worn out/torn/ ripped/ stained material is not acceptable. You want it to look nice and inviting but somewhat lived in to go with the patina of the truck. This might be the hardest part to getting the truck show ready.
Be brave and give him a good bath. Then you will be done with the exterior "restoration"!
Floyd,
I think your right on the money here at least with my way of thinking. I want it nice enough anyone could climb in and be somewhat comfortable.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 10:40 PM   #86
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Snyders has new seat springs S-806 and S-807.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/S...ord?word=s-806
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Old 06-11-2021, 11:16 PM   #87
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Folks,
Random pictures:
Straightened the louvers this side:


Reverse lock out:


Right side engine for David:










Door checks missing:


Start cable (needs work)






Map holder??


Behind rear seat crusty but there:




Light switch:


mirror:




Found this in my tool cabinet have had for many years I tred it and it works for water pump.


Door damage and new old handle installed:




Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-11-2021, 11:16 PM   #88
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Some more:
Good luck key fob. Not sure what position key comes out?? Sorry not good picture!


Hub cap:


Into the brakes: Steel from the pedal to the wheel!:










Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-12-2021, 07:22 AM   #89
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Woven linings are better than molded linings and those look good. You have lots of "correct" stuff on that truck.
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Old 06-12-2021, 07:40 AM   #90
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Chris,
Many tire options available, here’s just one.

Jim

https://www.millertire.com/6-00-20-f...py-truck-tire/
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Old 06-12-2021, 08:45 AM   #91
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That is a great looking, original truck. It would be good to treat the areas where there were mouse nests with Ospho or some other rust neutralizing product.
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Old 06-12-2021, 09:23 AM   #92
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As jimTN noted, lots of original, correct, stuff on your truck.
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Old 06-12-2021, 08:41 PM   #93
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Ford folks,
Thanks guys For the brake info. So could these be used as is? I took the clevis off this brake rod and the bottom mechanism moves down and moves the shoes out.

Havent touched the 32 today. Helped at our local tractor show grounds.
As I cleaned up the outer wheel bearing, I can see FORD script on the inner race!

Random stuff:


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-12-2021, 08:47 PM   #94
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Chris,
Many tire options available, here’s just one.

Jim

https://www.millertire.com/6-00-20-f...py-truck-tire/

Jim,
Thanks, They (Miller) are in Wauseon! We could load up your Doodle Tug and Bug and head out for the show and pick up tires, tubes and flaps for the 32! I think it may be a big Allis show??
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-12-2021, 08:50 PM   #95
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Snyders has new seat springs S-806 and S-807.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/S...ord?word=s-806
Bob,
I saw those for like $150 or less that might be the right way to get the correct units. Then I would need to make the wood bases?? Or do the bases come withe them? I may try to call them Monday.
Getting all three spring units new might be the way to go. The back has been whipped on pretty hard also, and the spring assembly needs repairs.
Regards,
Chris

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Old 06-13-2021, 06:32 AM   #96
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This should go without saying but if you are not familiar with truck rims, when those tires are mounted, they should be in a cage when inflated and a clamp on inflater used. Clean those woven linings with a commercial brake cleaning spray. Also use a covid mask when working on those brakes because they are most likely asbestos.
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Old 06-13-2021, 12:45 PM   #97
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JimTN, Folks,
Thanks for the reminders I do understand the safety aspects of the split rims. They are at a tire shop and they have the cage to re assemble these.
Glad I was setting down last night as I got the prices of the 6,00-20 Firestone tires, tubes and flaps. Just about $300 per wheel for the new rubber. & are on the list on the list.
The linings on this one brake system, I did spray down with brake clean. I will not fuss with the Asbestos shoe material with out a mask. Thanks for the reminder.
Ok, So I have a plan for seats, tires and brakes. Total cost would be about $3k. So like most things this will stretch over some time to allow some funds to be available.
I have done several tractors and other things and there usually is plenty to do to be ready to spend money. I also still need to get the books David G recommended.
Then the engine. Well I did pick up new spark plugs at NAPA. Beyond that I will start to look at basic items and systems. Fuel, Ignition, compression, and timing! Fluids and tuneup would be on the list too.
Way much to learn on this truck! But on the other hand these are very similar to the 4 cyl tractors I have been working on for 6-7 years. I like the simplicity.

Thanks for checking in on me! Hope things are good in FORD land!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-13-2021, 01:23 PM   #98
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A set of NOS seat springs would be great but probably not going to happen. Snyder's is the go-to for springs. Their new ones will fit and work just fine. Old spring sets are broken and worn out and in most cases not worth messing with.
As to the brakes, the way to make them perfect is to check each and every clevis , pin and rod hole. You will find them with some or a lot of play. When you add up all the links that are in series you get a lot of slop and the brakes will never be acceptable. The solution is to buy the oversize pins from one of the good vendors (you want hardened pins) and fit them. the clevis's will be OK but you may find some of the rod holes worn too big. These can be welded up or look for good Ford rods to replace. The bushings in the cross shaft assembly will be shot and need to be dealt with. I am not familiar with the pieces for big trucks but you can probably find (with Fordbarn help) the cams, links and pins for the mechanisms in the backing plates. None of this is expensive but will take time to do and when done (perfectly) you will have "new truck" brakes. No shortcuts allowed or you will defeat the whole process. I know that perfectly done brakes on a '32 car will stop as good as any system.
I am still curious about who will be the hero that shows up with correct seat upholstery material. The new springs with quality padding will make for a comfy ride.
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Old 06-13-2021, 06:53 PM   #99
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Nice truck! Congrats!
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Old 06-13-2021, 09:51 PM   #100
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Chris,


You should be able to withdraw the key in the full clockwise position which occurs when the steering column shaft is locked in place.
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:33 AM   #101
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Floyd, 38 Coupe, David, Folks,
Thanks for the information! And positive comments. That is very helpful in the begining of a new project.
I will try to get some pictures today on the status of things on the 32.
Brief recap:
- Both front drums and brake systems are in review. Found a couple things.
- The gear shift lever is out for repair
- Incorrect reflectors and bed lights have been removed from sides.
- All the wood on the bed has been removed.
- Decision has been made to keep the patina look on the truck rims. (not blast and paint. exterior of spoke portion)
- engine, well nothing yet.
- I have gone through a couple rolls of paper towels, wiping the drool off of it when friends come over!
- The truck is starting to grow on me.
- The wife and I are talking again!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:38 AM   #102
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David, Folks,
The key lock is quite stiff. I will rotate it clockwise and try that. Not sure of the steering lock but will very carefully try both positions. The lock may be very dry inside? I will update you.
Was there anything on the pictures of the right side of the engine that you can comment on?
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:09 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarmaker View Post
Floyd, 38 Coupe, David, Folks,
Thanks for the information! And positive comments. That is very helpful in the begining of a new project.
I will try to get some pictures today on the status of things on the 32.
Brief recap:
- Both front drums and brake systems are in review. Found a couple things.
- The gear shift lever is out for repair
- Incorrect reflectors and bed lights have been removed from sides.
- All the wood on the bed has been removed.
- Decision has been made to keep the patina look on the truck rims. (not blast and paint. exterior of spoke portion)
- engine, well nothing yet.
- I have gone through a couple rolls of paper towels, wiping the drool off of it when friends come over!
- The truck is starting to grow on me.
- The wife and I are talking again!
Regards,
Chris

In regards to the split rims. Make sure the mounting services on the wheel and ring are clean and rust free. Don't want to have a ring fail to seat properly and come loose, either while mounting or sometime down the road. But then I'm sure you know this. Can't say enough about your truck. Looking forward to continuing updates.
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Old 06-14-2021, 11:29 AM   #104
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Chris,

In response to your question, the left side of the engine compartment is pretty much as it was the day it was built allowing for decades of use. It has the early version of the intake manifold with the long vacuum line for the windshield wiper motor (slightly bent downward) consistent with it being a fairly early production vehicle. As with the left side, the engine splash pan attached to the frame side rail and front cross member is missing.

It has no air cleaner/silencer, engine steady rods, nor firewall-mounted oscillation damper, but then it did not have them when new, unlike the fours in '32 passenger cars and commercial vehicles. The air line for the gas gauge is missing and both the flex line into the fuel pump and the tubing from the pump to the carburetor have been replaced as has the original two-blade fan (the four-blade four-cylinder fan was adopted during the '33 model year). The rubber portion of the hood side bumper attached on top of the front fender flange is missing and the radiator hose clamps are not the originals.

It appears that the handle of the early hood latch that shows up in one of photos was originally chrome plated, which is unusual as the hood latches on standard commercial vehicles and big trucks were normally all black painted with the chrome-handled versions reserved for passenger cars and deluxe commercial vehicles. Are the other three hood latch handles the same?

When it is convenient, may we see a photo of the left side of the engine compartment that differs from that you provided previously. I noted in an earlier photo that it still has its original early small diameter oil filler tube and cap, but there is a characteristic of the early B cylinder block casting that I am curious to learn if it still survived at the time your truck's engine was manufactured. In your previous photo, the left side of the block is largely obscured by the water inlet pipe and its two sections of rubber radiator hose.

Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2021, 09:28 PM   #105
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David, 51504bat, Folks
I will try to get some pictures of the left side of the engine too.
Some random shots from today:
Right side brake review, Well when I took the drum off there was a oval washer laying in the drum.


Found this to be the outer retainer/ guide for the sliding portion of the brake actuator. So this had to be taken apart and repaired. Basically re attaching the oval plate.




Upper adjuster rod cleaned up,


Just hanging out in the shop:


Got the left side brake drum back on and ready to tune the brake rods when I get a new set of the over sized pins:






Weather was great! Low humidity and mid 70's:


Jim and I worked a little on his Doddle Tug today also. Mainly getting ready to put on new brake rods and ends,

In this last shot the mud flaps and cross bar have been removed. Bed is setting down in home position, Door check on drivers side was found in the door and repaired and reinstalled.


Key was turned all the way to the clockwise position and wiggled out of the ignition. Then WD40 was squirted in the key hole and into the lock above it. Way much better!

Have new seat springs (all three) at Snyder's for pick up on Friday. Haven't been there before so looking forward to seeing there store too.

Regards,
Chris

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Old 06-14-2021, 09:42 PM   #106
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Tell the Snyder's guys.... "HELLO" from all of us at the Barn! We love those guys!!! They will be happy to help you and they will enjoy seeing your progress too!!
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:02 PM   #107
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Sugarmaker! Nice find! I too am working on a '32 BB. It belongs to a local farmer who's family bought it new. It's pretty beat being a farm truck, but we're getting there. Frame, running gear, engine, and radiator are all done and back together. Waiting on my body guy to finish the body. If you need any advice, call someone who knows more than me! I've been at it for about a year and a half now, and I've learned a lot about it, mostly the hard way since I am in Eastern Oregon and there are very few mechanics out here other than me, who work on this old stuff. I'm mostly a Model A guy, but figured I'd broaden my horizon! There are a few good sources, Renner's Corner to name a good one. One thing I've learned is that the '32 is unique in that there seems to be few parts to come by, and then they are expensive! I still need a radiator cap, but have never seen one for sale. I did acquire a choke cable, which was missing, for $300. Pretty spendy I thought! Keep us informed! If I can help in any way, don't hesitate to contact me. Good luck!
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Old 06-15-2021, 03:55 AM   #108
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al,
I will try to remember to tell Snyder's about the good folks here!

Seebees,
Point me to your thread if you have one too please. or post some pictures here.

Folks,
Leg cramps have me up in the middle of the night! So I thought I would check in
Looking at the Firestone 6.00-20 tires from Miller or Coker. Going to start with getting 3 here soon. Tires, tubes and flaps.
Will need to make masks for each side of each wheel if I get them sand blasted. the split ring will have to be blasted on just the tire side maybe?? Would like to keep as much of the barn find look as possible. Any other suggestions are welcome too.

Another small project is to weld up the gear shift positioning slot that is worn out and rework back to a slot, from a current "Y" shape. I will get a picture.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-15-2021, 10:58 AM   #109
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I've never used Lucas Tire in Long Beach, CA but they list a 6.00x20 Firestone truck tire with a tread pattern IMO that would be perfect for your truck.
https://www.lucasclassictires.com/60...ll-761399L.htm
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Old 06-15-2021, 04:33 PM   #110
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51504bat,
Yes that is the tire. Same tire Miller and Coker have too. The short time I have researched this looks like the only version that might work. They are all about the same price.
Now I did talk to Snyder and they have a actual Lucas tire that is not the same for a 1 ton truck, it is $159 and 1350 lb load rating but I dont like the tread pattern as well.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-15-2021, 06:15 PM   #111
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As for leg cramps, put a bar of lavender soap under your bed sheet near your legs. Your leg cramps will be a thing of the past, i know it sounds crazy, but it WORKS! you are very fortunate to have such a neat truck.
Tom
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Old 06-15-2021, 06:30 PM   #112
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I ended up getting 6 Firestone truck tires from Coker, tubes and rim guards from Miller. They look great on the truck.
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Old 06-16-2021, 06:49 AM   #113
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Hotcoupe, KDL, Folks,
Thanks for the cramp suggestion. We have used the over the counter Leg Cramp pills and they work in about 5 -10 minutes.

I need to call Coker and Millers on the tires. I need 7 of those rascals. Just goes with the territory of these projects. I am used to it as almost all my tractors have required new rubber. Those are about the same price range too. Just only need two for the rear of a tractor!

I completed the right front brake review. repair, clean and reassemble. Also greased the zerks on both sides of the front end. All but one took grease. Took the front brake rods off and cleaned up the adjusters and lubed with a dab of never seize. They will be ready for tuning the brakes when needed.
Will get the over size pins and open all the holes to .340+ dia. and install the new pins at some point. Forf now its just back as it was. No parts laying around! The only new items used up to this point has been cotter pins.



On to the rear brakes:
Have the right rear wheels off. (learnig about the double stud over stud system)


Of course one stud stayed in the wheel. We got it apart. Just took a little noodling, cleaning, and wire brushing of the treads. Correct tooling and paitence!


Now the hub seems to be VERY tight! Probably just stuck on stud areas and the axle. I did release the brake shoes, by turning the adjuster counter clockwise (if you are looking at the backing plate from under the truck). Tried my puller and it broke so she is tight. Suggestions welcome here but My guess it just will take time, blaster, and the right tooling and it will pop off? Maybe a BFH too? I see the key in the axle.

shot of disrtributor: Need to check MAC's for parts.


need drivers side door guide (missing) Drivers door has damage where this attaches.


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-16-2021, 10:32 AM   #114
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Hub should be pulled from the snout,not from the studs- at least that's how the pass car and pickups are done.
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Old 06-16-2021, 09:02 PM   #115
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deuce lover,
Humm from the snout? There only fine threads for the cap to screw on the snout. I brought home a stout puller from a friend and need to see if it will fit/ work. It is heavy and made for pulling hubs.

Have done some checking on tires. I kind of like the look of the Firestone 6.00-20. I looked at the Lucas too. They might be fine, They look a little more like a rounder car tire??
Tire, tubes, and flap availability is a issue.
Some pictures requested by David of the drivers side of the "B" engine:










Also the rad cap is about 3.5 inches in dia I dont see any markings under the cap but it is very dirty. Lots of dents!




The rust:
(repeat picture) Lower passangers door:



Rear inboard area at spare well.


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-16-2021, 09:04 PM   #116
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Ford folks,
Some other shots:
Rear hub:




Anothe engine shot:


My wife asked me tonight if I was going ot paint it all up. I said no. I think she was a little disappointed!

Headlights:






Repaired the very worn shift lever where the cross pin and the slot meet.
Before:


After, used a 17/64 pin and enlarged the hole in the tower.


Which one of these dip sticks is correct? The long one was in the engine. The short one was behind the seat:


Hope to visit Snyder's Friday and get seat springs and a few other goodies too.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-16-2021, 10:09 PM   #117
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Chris,


Both the starter and generator are the original versions.

The firewall is the non-early version and loaded up with non-original electrical system stuff on the left side.

The shorter of the two oil dipsticks is the original.

The left side engine splash pan did survive after all. The bump in the engine block casting that I thought might be there is not, so it had been eliminated by the time that block had been cast.

When you clean up the underside of the radiator cap you may (or may not) find the name "Eaton" stamped there. They manufactured the cap for Ford (and they are still in business making cooling system components).

In the minutia department, the front grease fitting on the water pump was replaced with the zerk type, possibly as soon as in 1933.
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Old 06-17-2021, 09:19 AM   #118
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David,
Thanks for the details under the hood.
Found tires at Miller. Tubes and flaps at Lucas.
Springs at Snyder's. And catalog coming from MAC's. Still haven't worked hard on getting the books you suggested.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-17-2021, 10:13 AM   #119
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Mac's catalog may be good for reference but there are better vendors.
https://thirdgenauto.com/
https://cgfordparts.com/
https://www.earlyfordstore.com/
http://www.southsideobsolete.com/Sou...e/Welcome.html

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Old 06-17-2021, 11:25 AM   #120
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Bob C is correct here. Mac's is a good catalog for armchair reading. Don't get taken in by "easy- just order it from the catalogitis". For this truck you want NOS only or contact the people noted above. There are enough people following this thread that they as a group can come up with all the NOS stuff you need.
As to mama bear.
Go back to my original thought may pages ago.
Tell her that Mr. truck is going to get a good bath and shampoo and a new set of clothes (aka seat upholstery) and new shoes and he will be looking good to go back to work.
Give it a try.
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Old 06-17-2021, 04:23 PM   #121
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Floyd,
Bob,
Folks,
I checked out the links thank you for posting these sources for parts. So far I have not had to buy much. This 32 is pretty complete luckily.
Cheryl will hopefully take a ride in the 32 some day. If I get off the couch it may happen.
Not much action today. Went to Pittsburgh today. Again tomorrow and may try to stop and get seat springs on the way back too.
Thanks to David for seat information on the dual seat system of these trucks.
Off to see if I can pull a hub on the rear.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-18-2021, 05:20 AM   #122
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Folks,
I called in a several favors for the rear brakes on the 32 AAB.
Borrower a well seasoned puller for the hub. Being on a tapered shaft and key way this was no match for my HF 3 jaw.
Pictured here is the correct puller for the job. Lots of gentle tapping with a 2 lb hammer them some love taps on the end of the puller with a 12 lb mall.











During breaks ( no pun intended) I assisted Jim in working on his brake adjusters on the Doodle Tug.

Also took the shifter out of the truck and rebuilt the ball to larger dimension to raise it about 3/32. This allows the move from second to third gear much smoother. Shifter snout was hitting the shift forks just a tad.



Back to the brakes, Once broke free the drum slid off.
Shoes all look really good. Lots of brake Kleen and will add some light drops of lube to moving joints:


Found the air conditioning system still ready to blow icy cold. (if you open it in the winter



Ordered tubes and flaps from Russ at Lucas. Have 7 Firestone 6.00-20 set aside for me to pick up at Millers next week. Tire shop should have first three tires dismounted today. Then to determine the rim clean up process.

Picked up seat springs and misc parts from Snyder's today. Joe is really nice and took a look at my 32 picrtres. Nice place Nice people. I told them the folks on the Ford Barn Forum said HI!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:55 AM   #123
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Folks,
Was too pooped to post last night. I spent the afternoon in the shop mostly working on the rear brakes. Greased the bearings on the passengers side rear and re installed the drum onto the axle. I did lube the ebrake pivot points lightly.
Then to the left side. Wheel lug nuts came off the same as the right side. (one nut came off the inner stud with the wheel.


Came up with a way to remove that nut / stud with the wheel off. The right sized Cresent wrench!:


While at Snyder's I got some info on the exhaust pipe connection which may be about wht I need for the 32? This is a model A type flange. I picked up a clamp just in case, but will try use mine with some new bolts.
Bottom line is I may have to have a custom pipe made with this flange and the correct bends. I was trying to maybe get something on the exhaust prior to a attempt to strart the engine.




The model A manifold as a ref.


The springs- set them in position for fit check.


I had to set on them, with some cadrboard,. At 6'-2" tall this truck is going to be a tight fit on the old man! I think these will be a really good addition to the 32. Dang that shifter is smooth as silk now! Little things make me happy!

I will start to look at my stock of ash boards to make the seat bases. Also may use the old hangers from the original seat spring back. Thge ash is from a tree here on the property. That will be another post another day!


Last brake drum removal for review:





Rear drivers. I thought I was doing well until the puller started to move. I though the hub had broke free? No it had pulled the nut off one of the studs. I was about sick! I dont every intend to damage anything and try to be really careful. (Hard to do when the tools are a 2 lb hammer for the turning, and a 12 lb mall for the persuading!) But in this case I forgot to tighten the left handed nuts down with a wrench. I took the puller off and moved to another set of studs. Did a quick evaluation of the damage and found that most of the damage was to the nut not the thread on the truck! Whew!!
Proceeded to pound and beat on the puller. Added a little heat to the hub with a MAP gas propane torch. Stopped took a breath, sipped a cool beverage, called a friend, and then went back at it slowly! About 10:30 it popped off!
I was very happy. ( by the way I did turn the adjusters to increase the shoe to drum clearance.
Looks very good in the brake shoe area.




Yea its not show quality in there but it looks pretty well maintained: Pads look ok to me.


E brake pads and actuator:


Here is the back and the large seal:



** I think I need a inner seal for the hub ( shown above), anyone have one or know where I might get one? I dont have the part number yet! its the big one that goes in after the huge needle bearings then a snap ring retains it. I can see the spring of the seal and there is some grease that came out into the backer plate area. hope this is not one of those unobtainable items?? **Off to try to do something besides ride the couch! Hope things ar good In Ford land. Thanks for checking in on me.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:52 AM   #124
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Check with barnfind08 or Michael at Third Gen Automotive for the seal.
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Old 06-19-2021, 09:40 AM   #125
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Snyder's shows the seals, AA-1175-A and AA-4245-D.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...truck/aa-truck
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:50 PM   #126
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Thanks guys!
To tired for much work on the deuce tonight. Hope to pick it up again Monday.
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Chris
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Old 06-20-2021, 05:54 AM   #127
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Folks,
Open to opinions on 6 volt vs 12 volt. I have my own thoughts on this too. And at some point will have to burn that bridge!
I await your input. I know this is almost a FORD vs Chevy topic or a Political type area. We all have our reasons for both.
I understand both.
My preference would be to convert to 12 volt. I have done that on many of my tractor projects and I really do like the dependability and reliability. But I also have a 1953 Jubilee that is still 6 volts and it has not failed me in 8 years. if all the systems are in good working order 6 volt does work and work well too.
So we have this pretty good original 32 setting here waiting. Pros and cons is the way I try to sort through these type of discussions.
Ford made them 6 volt and they worked. Improved technology came along (12volt) and it works even better!
FYI I probably will pull the 6 volt battery from the Jubilee, if I try to crank this 32 engine over at some point.
Still many moves before that happens!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-20-2021, 10:06 AM   #128
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Converted my '39 p/u to 12 volts. But its not stock, has an 8ba. I'm happier with 12 volts but there are many who will tell you that a 6 volt system in good shape is all you need. In the end its up to you.
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Old 06-20-2021, 11:58 AM   #129
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Chris,


B fours tend to be quicker to fire up than V8s so there's less drain on the battery at start up and less advantage in switching to 12 volts.
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Old 06-20-2021, 12:06 PM   #130
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6 volts done perfectly ,like when Henry built it , will work perfectly. 6 volts will crank and start that B engine just fine ,like it has for almost 90 years.
I have a 32 and a 40 (cars) and they are 6 volt and run perfectly. You have no real electrical loads to run on a 32 besides horn, lights , ignition coil and one dash light.
Having said that, an Optima 6 V battery in a Ford script battery case (I have done this to both of my cars) is a good idea.
For my '32, I did change the headlights to 6V halogen (the low wattage German bulbs)_ and did use the Bob Drake reflectors. The regular 6 volt halogen bulbs are 55w and too much for the generator. This worked out great as the focal point is perfect, the pattern is perfect and the current draw is exactly the same as the old bulbs, so the generator is more than happy. I don't know what can be done for the truck lights, but if the new -made for -halogenbulb reflectors can be fitted, I would do that. Paint the inside of the tail light white and use the brighter 6V bulb. It will be as bright as a new car, providing the wiring and connections are perfect or better.
Saying it is "6 Volt " is a badge of honor, just like mechanical brakes and original paint. Having to say or answer the inevitable question about " did you convert to 12 volts?" would be admitting defeat. Proudly saying "it is ALL original" has a lot of charm, pride and the fact that you found the perfect vehicle for that should weigh heavily on your decision.
Besides, what is 12V going to do for you (really)?
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Old 06-20-2021, 12:12 PM   #131
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In my opinion, the advent of the Optima battery (800 CCA) makes the question moot for anything other than modified cars. get the faux Ford script case, and you're golden. It's a given that the wiring and grounds are all in top shape.)
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Old 06-20-2021, 01:29 PM   #132
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Totally agree, Tubman. It take almost nothing to start a perfectly (here is that term again) tuned flathead, B or V8. I liked the optima for the reason of letting the cars sit for a long period of time while holding a charge. I know how easy it is to forget to plug in the battery tender.
Anyway, a new 6 volt wet, or AGM or spiral (Optima) will be much better than the original wet lead-acid batteries from 1932.
Following this kind of logic (?) , a new 6 Volt battery will by definition be an upgrade. It will spin that good/perfect 6 volt starter and you will be off and running. Every time.
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Old 06-20-2021, 07:22 PM   #133
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Thank you folks for your thoughts and suggestions on the 6V vs 12 V systems.
I did not know about the Optima battery option. Will check that out too.
This is not going to be a show truck by any means. Just a survivor in its work clothes!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:21 AM   #134
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Folks,
Hope to have a update on rims today. Need to drop these off at the shop. If they can save any of these tires my friend Jim might use them on his Doodle bug?




I was able to save the original starter knob and cable. much cleaning and lubing. It is not perfect and may not work the end of the wire broke off and it may be too short?? But it feels like it will function. Rebuilding a engine might have been easier??
Yea I had to get that patina off to get rust out and lube in:


Pulled for start position:


I thought this was black but in the picture it looks brown??:


Here is one of the brake shackles drilled for the new oversized pin from Snyder's. I need to get some drill bits .340 dai to run in my right angled driver head. As I plan to drill the levers on the truck while still in position. That should be fun! Have to pick up some new 5/16 fine thread nuts to replace these rusted away ones on the rods. Yea they may be the correct ones But when I want to tighten these down I want good wrench flats. Original ones are very corroded. But have not had one the would not come apart yet!


Spending some quality time under the truck and find the gas line coming off the bottom of the tank with a shut off valve. Will try to get a picture. Looks maybe a rework/ repair/ rigged???

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Chris
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:45 AM   #135
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There was a shutoff valve on the bottom of the tank originally. It was a carryover Model A part. Your photo of it will tell us all. Snyder's carry what appears to be a faithful reproduction of the original as well as new packing if yours is otherwise okay.

If you want an operable original fuel gauge, Mike McKennett (Restorations and Reproductions, Portland, OR) makes a faithful reproduction of the siamesed (fused together) fuel/air lines in copper-plated steel as original. Likely the air line portion from the tank unit to the gauge is beyond saving. Likely also will be that the tiny tubing on the back of the gauge is blocked and the gauge cannot function as designed. There have been numerous threads herein on the subject of restoring original hydrostatic gauges such as yours.

All '32 instrument panel and starter switch cable knobs were brown on North American-produced '32s. Yours cleaned up nicely.

Two more items have shown up in your informative photos that suggest your truck was not an especially early production version, namely the later type firewall and cowl vent.
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:59 AM   #136
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If the tubes are no good save the valve stems as they may be originals.
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Old 06-21-2021, 12:18 PM   #137
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As David said, the brown starter knob is original and another high value item. Reproductions are junk. For nuts, bolts and fasteners in general, call Micheal at Thirdgen in Tenn. He has ALL of the correctly correct thick headed bolts, nuts washers and in the proper finish ,etc. for your truck. Don't even try the hardware store, even though they do have some fine thread stuff. Micheal took over the world famous "Fordbolts " company when Roy passed away. He is your friend for this stuff.
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Old 06-21-2021, 12:41 PM   #138
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Chris,

Just a post to say THANKS for all of the high quality photos and text describing what they show. They sure make it easier to understand.

Charlie Stephens
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:26 PM   #139
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Charlie,


I could not have said it better. Seeing the details of the brakes inside the removed hubs/drums has been a special treat.
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:34 PM   #140
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From the "humor" side of things it looks as if you have to have tools/tools to work on that "BB" truck IE "Large" sized tools for a "large" sized truck!!!


Agree with Charlie & David, this has been a fantastic post, AND a Fantastic truck!!!!
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Old 06-21-2021, 06:08 PM   #141
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Those tires are in GREAT shape! There aren't any cotton strands showing yet. Awesome photos of everything! Keep up the good work.

Red
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:05 PM   #142
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You will need to find a 30's vintage flashlight to snap into the bracket on top of the steering column under the dash.
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Old 06-21-2021, 10:58 PM   #143
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Bob C, Floyd, David and Charlie, Reds34, and drolston,
Spent some quality time with the 32 this afternoon as were in the middle of a rinse cycle!
The fuel tank looks to have a brass/ copper turn type shut off.
Met a knew neighbor tonight that pulled in driving a 48 Ford coupe! Very nice. Great to meet some like minded Ford guys!
So on my adventures today I stopped a NAPA and picked up a piece of 2 inch exhaust pipe. It was enlarged on one end for another piece of 2 inch to slide into. I used that end to prototype a flanged end to fit on the "B" exhaust manifold:
Made a "die" from a piece of plywood, with a radius routered in.














on the truck:




Should work just fine for a little while!

The tires / wheels are all at the tire shop. We may not be able to save the tires> Hoping the wheels will be in acceptable shape for new rubber!
I did get a flashlight when I was at Snyder's. I also ordered the seals for the hubs today from them and a zinc additive for the oil. Picked up 5 qts of 30 weight non detergent from NAPA.

Pulled the fuel pump and started cleaning it up. Had a lot of rust inside, under the cover.
Will try to pull the carb and side cover off the valves tomorrow for a look at the valves.

Sure glad you folks approve of the pictures! That is pretty much how I document these types of things.

My other world since retirement looks like this: I get lengthy and very long winded. Just go here when you cant sleep. I think lots of Allis folks do!
https://www.allischalmers.com/FORUM/...pic143835.html

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-21-2021, 11:23 PM   #144
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Folks,
pictures took a while to load from my phone. I did get some shots of the fuel tank bottom and the gas line. I accidentally broke the fuel line that may not be original going in to the fuel pump, Looks like maybe a special end fitting on that line into the fuel pump??:






Gas tank bottom and valve:


Maybe this is the original outlet? Or is this for the fuel gauge system??




carb:


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:10 AM   #145
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Hey Chris: You should have the fuel pump rebuilt with a diaphragm that is designed for our modern fuels. Look up Charlie NY here on the barn - he does really good work and will get your pump rebuilt as it should be.

Love your truck and your approach to it. It is in exceptional shape and was obviously not abused and well cared for - kind of rare for trucks like these. So many of them were used and abused over many years - beat up from one end to the other. Really nice find and glad that it is in YOUR hands!
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:16 AM   #146
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Also, if it was mine, I'd pull the pan and clean out all the old oil and probably the layer of settled sludge that is in it. On every old/sitting car/truck that I've taken apart, there was a big mess in the bottom of the oil-pans . . . you won't get it out by draining the oil.

You really don't want to start it, loosen up some of that old sludge and pump it through the bearings. It is not a hard task and you'll be happy to know that that you'll be starting the ole' girl with a clean blood transfusion.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:21 AM   #147
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Chris,

There's no grass growing under your feet; your progress is amazing.

The first photo below shows a NOS BB muffler inlet pipe with its deep bend to clear the cross member. Snyder's have a tapered composite copper seal for between the exhaust manifold and the muffler inlet pipe.

The fuel shut off valve is an original as is the tank sending unit for the gas gauge (with the open threaded fitting). The air line that connects to that fitting is long gone as expected from your earlier photos. An inexpensive reprint of the 1932 Service Bulletins will provide you with excellent information on the entire gas gauge system (and lots of other useful information as well).

The flex hose leading into the fuel pump and the tube exiting the pump to the carburetor are both non-original. The second photo shows a NOS flex hose and a accurate reproduction of the original copper-plated steel tube (from Michael Driskell, Third Gen Automotive - 35fordtn on this site). The last photo shows them in place.

Expect to find the same sort of mess in the carburetor float bowl as you encountered in the fuel pump.
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Old 06-23-2021, 06:44 AM   #148
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David, Bored&Stroked, Folks,
Thank you for the pictures and suggestions/ Comments too. The right thing to do would be to pull the engine and do and really good review. I also know how this goes and the time to do it right almost always out weighs the time to to it over. Many lessons learned in life. like this.
Yesterday Jim and I worked most of the afternoon and evening on the 32. Just things that need to be done to get back to a starting point for the truck to function.
The brakes:
New seals (4.00 inch o.d> x 2.875 I.D. x .40 thick lip seals) needed for both sides coming from Snyder's. Here are the ones I took out:






The seal on the left side had been bad for a long time and wore a shallow groove in the axle. it is maybe .010 deep?

I will smooth the edges of that to assure no sharp corners and install the new seals. I believe it will be just fine for another maybe 90 years of very light use. So my great grandson Rhett will be 95 when he tears it apart again!

While the seals were out might as well look at the bearings too.
Two of these bad boys each wheel.


So two or three of the roller bearings had some rust on the rollers. I polished these to remove any rough spots. I know folks may cringe at this, Sorry. But this is not going to the INDY speed way. So sometimes we compromise and do the best we can and move on in life.
This looks worse than it is in person. I tend to share the good and the bad because life gives us both. After these were smoothed, I dont believe it will ever do any damage to the shaft the it rides on. Basically giving it just a little clearance where I removed the surface rust. It is actually good that I found this, as the rust would not have been great on the shaft interface.








All in all I was very pleased with how these bearings looked. They will be packed full and the zerks will be checked for function to add grease after assembly too.
The hub where the bearings and seal reside:


Ok not a great picture but 13 of these brke rod joints were reworked to accept the larger over sized pins (.340 dia) If you havent done this I would recommend it! But it was my first time so I am excited about it. Some of the old pins were very worn and sloppy. I used a 90 degree driver with a hex driven 11/32 drill to get in to the tight areas and drill the actuator parts on the truck that were not going to be removed. It worked great! The rods were all taken off, moved to the wire brush for cleaning the threads, carefully lubed and disassembled. New NAPA fine thread nuts installed. (yes, I know there not the correct ones) But guys, this is going to be a driver too. Not a show truck. Please dont get me wrong I appreciate the leads to the folks that have all the NOS items. I also want to get this functional and back on its wheels within a couple months.


That took the majority of yesterday. Lots of moves! Also testing the front brakes and getting them adjusted since the drums were on. All adjustments are functioning and acts like it will stop good. Final tuning will be needed at some point but we are now prepared to do that with minor effort, as all rod and drum components have been reviewed / repaired tested and approved in a static shop environment. "Steel from the pedal to the Wheel"!

Several other items:
Jim and I planned the moves for the reattachment of the PTO shaft to the hydraulic pump under the dump bed. This meant moving the dump bed back several inches and aligning the square shaft of the PTO as the bed moved forward into the home position. Sounds easy!

We raised the bed a half inch, inserted 4 bolts each corner as rollers, pried the bed back away from the cab, then pushed it forward with a strategically placed porta power, as I aligned the shaft and socket under the truck. It helped to hold your mouth just right for this also!

Just another check box. Will it function?? I don't have a clue? But it wasn't going to, if never hooked up! Lots of greasy, grimy, oil leaking units under this truck too!

While under the truck, spending some quality time on the creeper, I gently pushed up on the floor board and opened up a whole new world!
We found the linkages for the PTO and the hydraulic pump to need attention too. Not surprising. So those came off for some cleaning and will be evaluated for tightening upo worn areas too.
Found the battery box 98% intact. Found the well worn foot pedal pivots.



Some original paint still clings to the steel on these levers:




Well worn lever needs to go to the guys in the fab shop! Those guys get all the fun stuff to do! This is the PTO actuator lever on the side of the tranny.
Goal is to get these servicable tight and back in the truck soon too.


Big thanks to Jim B. from Bugs&Tugs for helping with the 32 all day!

We did take his tug for a ride down the road too! Wasn't all work yesterday! The Model A engine sounds sweet!




Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-23-2021, 07:06 AM   #149
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Quote:
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Chris,

There's no grass growing under your feet; your progress is amazing.

The first photo below shows a NOS BB muffler inlet pipe with its deep bend to clear the cross member. Snyder's have a tapered composite copper seal for between the exhaust manifold and the muffler inlet pipe.

The fuel shut off valve is an original as is the tank sending unit for the gas gauge (with the open threaded fitting). The air line that connects to that fitting is long gone as expected from your earlier photos. An inexpensive reprint of the 1932 Service Bulletins will provide you with excellent information on the entire gas gauge system (and lots of other useful information as well).

The flex hose leading into the fuel pump and the tube exiting the pump to the carburetor are both non-original. The second photo shows a NOS flex hose and a accurate reproduction of the original copper-plated steel tube (from Michael Driskell, Third Gen Automotive - 35fordtn on this site). The last photo shows them in place.

Expect to find the same sort of mess in the carburetor float bowl as you encountered in the fuel pump.
David,
The exhaust that was hanging on the truck did not have the big dip in it. Now it probable was not original because it looked like a flange had been welded on to the manifold end.

Question what is the bracket and rod bolted to the side of the block just below the exhaust pipe to manifold connection? My truck doest have anything bolted on there??
I will need that flex hose so may have to contact Third Gen Automotive. Thanks!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-23-2021, 10:26 AM   #150
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Check out Vince's site for pictures of the steady rods, the big trucks don't use them.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/brearmotormounts.htm
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Old 06-23-2021, 11:50 AM   #151
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Bob,
Thanks! That makes sense. So maybe no one cared if the trucks shook?
Regards,
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Old 06-23-2021, 12:47 PM   #152
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Chris,


That's right, no steady rods originally, so no brackets for them on the side of the cylinder block. Before anyone asks about your lack of a vibration damper mounted on the firewall and attached to the back of the cylinder block, like the steady rods, the big trucks did not come with one originally.


Good new about your battery box, Chris, as it is the original judging from your photos. They are often badly rusted with most or all of the tray and stone shield portion long gone.
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:16 PM   #153
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Folks,
For some reason this just does not want to post correctly tonight?
Anyway I have rim issues. The tire shop got the old tires off but they do not feel comfortable at all in using the lock rings. They feel they have lost there spring or ability to hold their shape.
So If anyone has suggestions as to sources for these lock rings please let me know.
I am planning a trip to Miller tire tomorrow to get the 6.00-20 tires. Sure hope this is the right move and I can find lock rings to put these back together.
One of the original tires cut off the rim:


old tube:
Yea is says Made in Rubber City and is red in color.










This is what I am looking for x 7!


Did get the seals today:


Also got a box of tubes and flaps for 6.00-20 tires.


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:29 PM   #154
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

I would use those rims and rings, but I'm probably not as careful as I should be sometimes. I don't usually use chains or a cage to inflate split rim tires.

Red
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Old 06-23-2021, 09:50 PM   #155
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Red,
I see one is distorted and looks like it may have been forced a little? Maybe needed some help getting it off at the shop?? They (tire shop) does not like these old lock rings. But can I find something better/ New / used? I really dont want to get new rubber and then not be able to use the tires on these rims!
They said the rims will clean up fine its the darn lock rings that they feel are not retaining their shape/ spring??
Thanks for your input.
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Chris
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Old 06-23-2021, 11:06 PM   #156
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I would use those rims and rings, but I'm probably not as careful as I should be sometimes. I don't usually use chains or a cage to inflate split rim tires.

Red



Hi Red, I'm sure there are plenty of stories out there, about
the DANGER of some of those old style of split rims.

Many years ago, a fellow was airing up an old split rim, and
the story in the paper described, as gentle as they could, that
as he was down airing it up, the outer Ring Exploded off the
wheel, and killed the man instantly.

I heard, from people who were there, that it was Very Very Gory




.
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Old 06-23-2021, 11:48 PM   #157
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

I would also use them.... Where is TruckDog (Stu) when we need him? Oh, and I also LOVE this thread!!!
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Old 06-24-2021, 12:02 AM   #158
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Always as in always either chain the ring to the rim in 2 places or better yet use a cage. Use a clip on inflater chuck with about a 4 foot hose between the chuck and the air valve. If you do buy different rings they must be a correct match for the other part of the wheel. And somewhere in the back of my mind IIRC Model AA/BB wheels were different than later model dually splits and the later ones couldn't be used on the AA/BB's. Of course I could be wrong. Just saying make sure any wheels/rings you buy will be correct. Hope you get the wheel situation sorted. Can't wait to see it on new rubber and ready for the maiden test drive.
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Old 06-24-2021, 04:20 AM   #159
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Folks,
Well the tire/ rim thing is new to me. Dont feel all that great about it today! You will have that sometimes on these old pieces. So we will try to go forward. Yes as I try to find some information about these antique lock rings it's apparent that it will not be a easy task. That is one of the reasons I come to these forums. The answer is probably waiting from someone on here.
I have seen many posts from Stu (truckdog) on rims and widowmakers.
Sun is coming up on a new day. Jim from Bugs&Tugs and I will travel today to Waeson OH to the Thrashermans and Allis show probably stop at Millers and look at Firestone tires too.
In hind site. maybe should have had the rims apart first?
Glad GB is liking the thread! Hope I can keep this going too.
Have thought a lot about the engine and starting and all the correct suggestions. The right thing to do would be to pull the engine and give it a really good look.
That my friends will be for another day to discuss.

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:09 AM   #160
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I may have a complete rim and ring or two I'd part with. Let me know if your interested.
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Old 06-24-2021, 10:13 AM   #161
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Seems to me the 47 two ton I recently sold had the rings without the split. They went on and off because there is a partial cut-out on the retainer lip. I know you cant mix rings and wheels. What is the lug pattern on a '32 big truck? I feel like I used a tonner wheel (5 on 6 7/8") for a roller on my '32, but that was at least 25 years ago...... Have fun at Thrashermans!
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Old 06-24-2021, 01:13 PM   #162
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Take a break (a short one) and visit your other ole iron hobby. The wheel thing will sort itself out as word gets around. You should be able to find what you want somewhere in your neck of the woods. Otherwise we can look here in California where everything is. I will call a friend here in Ventura area who has a yard full of '32 trucks and buildings full of parts (car and Truck) He has big trucks, little trucks, long and short panels and even roadster pickups. The only part that stumped him was a rear bumper for a 32 sedan delivery, (David will appreciate that).
This project has taken on a life of its own. The wheels will find you.
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Old 06-24-2021, 05:11 PM   #163
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I have to see that yard!
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:13 PM   #164
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Love your truck and this thread! It sure got in the right hands. I 2nd at least pulling the pan. The last 3 engines that had not been run for years of course has the 1 1/2" of the sludge and the killer is the moisture and acids that eats at the pickup tube and pan.
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:27 PM   #165
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Quote:
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I may have a complete rim and ring or two I'd part with. Let me know if your interested.
KDL,
Yes I may be interested in those rings. I will send you a P.M.
Trying to evaluate several possible options that will be safe and effective too.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:30 PM   #166
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Quote:
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Love your truck and this thread! It sure got in the right hands. I 2nd at least pulling the pan. The last 3 engines that had not been run for years of course has the 1 1/2" of the sludge and the killer is the moisture and acids that eats at the pickup tube and pan.
Steve

Steve,
Thanks for your positive comments and suggestions. When I do get time to work on the engine I believe I will remove it and do a through exam and clean up. Much easier to do if it is out I believe.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:42 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd View Post
Take a break (a short one) and visit your other ole iron hobby. The wheel thing will sort itself out as word gets around. You should be able to find what you want somewhere in your neck of the woods. Otherwise we can look here in California where everything is. I will call a friend here in Ventura area who has a yard full of '32 trucks and buildings full of parts (car and Truck) He has big trucks, little trucks, long and short panels and even roadster pickups. The only part that stumped him was a rear bumper for a 32 sedan delivery, (David will appreciate that).
This project has taken on a life of its own. The wheels will find you.
Floyd,
I did make two other contacts today in my travels that may have some lock rings. And with KDL thats 3, so yes I will Attempt to be patient. I did bring the tires home today. So I have the 6.00-20 Firestone style tires, tubes and flaps. That may be a little premature, but I think a tire in the hand is better than two on the internet!
Rims will be cleaned ( sandblasted ) and evaluated again when cleaned of rust and scale. The lock rings will be cleaned and reviewed too.





Thanks you for your work on this old wheel issue, that may help a lot!
I would really like to use the old wheels on this truck! But I also would it like to be safe too!

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:50 PM   #168
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Folks,
The Waseon show is always great! We had warm sunny weather with a nice breeze! Looked at lots of tractors, Steam engines, Doodle bugs, and trucks!
I would recommend this show to anyone!





Thanks to Jim from Bugs & Tugs for the pictures. Yea that's me in the AC shirt.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:13 PM   #169
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Barn folks,
Well I will visit a local shop that has worked on these old rims and locks tomorrow and get some lessons.
Also talked to Stu (truckdog) and he viewed the pictures of the lock rings and felt they could be reworked gently and would work. So that's the plan. I am needle scaling all the big chunks off. A very light sanding of the lock ring feature. Lots of needle scaling on the rim groove.
I was able to gently tweak the one ring that was distorted, back very close to the others.
Will try to gently compress the rings to bring them back to near original shapes.
I think I will paint the inside of the rim and lock ring with POR? Called several local sandblasters and they could not get to this custom work for a month or two. So I am going to descale clean and paint them.
Late night with the 32, much to do!


Got all the lock rings cleaned and ready for tuning.


one rim is done, 6 more to work on!


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:40 PM   #170
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Nice work! Love it.


Treat the rust with ospho after cleaning all the big stuff off. Or whatever rust convertor. (acid etch convertor) and spray it with an epoxy. Oshpo is just a lite 15% phosphoric solution (also in coke-cola) used for marine paint prep mostly. Converts lite rust to a neutral state and leaves a lite coat for flash rust if you blast it. Por15 is a good product remove all oil and etch if you do that. It's what they recommend also.


Coker has tube liners if your are worried about the surface on the tube. or a round of duct tape.

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Old 06-26-2021, 06:31 AM   #171
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Tinker,
Folks,
Thanks for the hints on the rust conversion, and coating. They will get something. Using my current method of cleaning, I should be able to keep the original look of the wheels to match the truck.
I have the tubes and flaps from Lucas. Coker and Miller did not have them.

Should have some additional wheel updates tonight. Keeping my fingers crossed!

I have done repair work on almost every tractor tire rim on my 4 tractor refurb projects. and these truck rims look WAY better than tractor rims. I have sectioned, widened and repaired about a dozen I think? Trying to block that out of my mind right now Its a lot of work to get these units back on there feet. Also some dollars leave the old wallet in a hurry too. But that is one of my pet peeves I go after the brakes, tires and lights on almost every project I start. I guess those are all safety related items. It comes from growing up on the farm with no brakes and no lights ?
Some non related rim work:
28 inch tractor rims. These are Case combine rims split to make wider for new rubber.


5 inch band of 1/8 steel added to make 15 inch wide rim:


The primed view:


Some pretty:


New rubber:


Allis WZ' in its work clothes with new 14.9-28s on rear.


Hope its ok to post some stuff about no Ford stuff that I have. If not let me know please.

Off to play in the big sandbox!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-26-2021, 07:29 AM   #172
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It is all related knowledge and while I'll never own a tractor or big BB truck, I find your photos and text interesting and informative.
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:14 AM   #173
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Hey Chris, just out of curiosity, do you start with flat 1/8" plate? Do you have a roller of some sort to create the necessary arc? Was wondering how you managed to get just the radius you needed. Nice work by the way!
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Old 06-26-2021, 05:30 PM   #174
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David,
I never thought I would own a Truck like this also. Just happened. Be prepared!
Bored&Stroked,
I started with a 5 inch strip of flat stock. I set two heavy metal saw horses about 4 inches apart. Spanned the gap with the steel. Picked up the 2 lb hammer and went to work "blacksmithing" a ring of steel. I calculated the length, but left the stock just little longer for trimming. I have done three sets like this for new tires. Most of the rims also had some rust out due to calcium leakage.
I met with friend Chuck a old school mechanic that felt all the wheel components will be able to be used. But he did suggest a added safety precaution. That would be to weld a nut or spacer on each side of the split on the lock rings. Then add a bolt to draw the lock ring into the home position. while airing up with chains and or cage. I have a little more clean up to do the assure the groove in the wheel is clean. I will start to look at that feature.
So At this point I am more confident to go ahead with the rim cleaning.
Regards,
Chris
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Some Cub Cadets

Last edited by sugarmaker; 06-27-2021 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 06-26-2021, 09:34 PM   #175
cmbrucew
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

Chris
The skills and knowledge shown in your work suggest you attended FFA classes in high school.
Bruce
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:15 PM   #176
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Bruce,
No I attended about 2 months and realized I was learning more on the farm from Dad and Grandpa than in that class. We never had much and had to make something out of nothing most of the time as kids. Working on the farms for 40 years you pick up a few things.

Folks,
Update on the wheels and lock rings. Started trying to come up with a way to squeeze these rings to get them back round and close together at the seam. It is a process that you need to "feel" somewhat as you apply the pressure. I also removed the offset twist by stretching them apart until they laid flat on the work table. Drew a chalk line around the perimeter of a rim to have a guide line for the shape of the lock ring too.
This is the tooling and method. Pipe clamp had just enough stroke to compress the lock ring just enough to start to bring it back. Several applications at strategic points. Its all about the tooling!:


You can see it is squezzed a couple inches past the joint, then will spring back.


Here is one of the 7 that came out tight. most have 1/2 inch gap that can easily be moved together.


This is the stack of 7 lock rings. I think I am going to put these together without the nuts welded and bolt holding them at the joint:


Next to work on the rims, needle scaling and very light grinding to clean up the groove area. May pick up a quart of POR for the inside of the rims and lock ring.
Heard a lot about it, never used it?

Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:51 PM   #177
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Farmers fix things. Can't wait around all day. Nice work.
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Old 06-26-2021, 11:21 PM   #178
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Chris, Good on You!!!! The school of Life teaches more than any college and degree or diploma on the wall. Old fashioned common sense and practical use of basic tools can get the job done today just as when these old trucks and cars were new 90 years ago. Thanks for continuing to post your progress for us and God Speed you'll have it running this summer.
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Old 06-27-2021, 06:22 AM   #179
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Tinker, Al, Ford Folks,
Thanks for the support! That is also some of the reason I know these forums work for me and my projects. I get the ideas and an occasional jump start to get out there and do something! The more I work on this 32, I realized that similar to other machines of that time they were designed and built so that most folks could actually work on them. As compared to my newer truck where there are too many electronics and gizmos to go wrong or need serious dealer/ technician shop time.

May have some basic questions about engine stuff soon. like this ok now!
easier to pull just the engine?
Pull engine and transmission?
Leave engine in place and pull head and pan?
Gaskets?
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-27-2021, 06:44 AM   #180
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With its closed center cross member, pulling the engine and transmission together is the only realistic option unless you can do everything that you want to do by removing the cylinder head and oil pan (a project in itself given the V-shaped front axle radius rod(s) beneath the pan interfering with the pan's removal). Snyder's has all the gaskets you will need. I recommend that you rebuild the oil pump while you have the oil pan off (again, Snyder's has what you'll need). Both the rod and main bearings are poured and machined babbitt, not insert and hopefully all remain within specification. Given your engine number, it will likely not have the later counterbalanced crankshaft (unless the original was replaced along the way), which you might consider if you have to have any of the bearings re-poured and machined.
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Old 06-27-2021, 10:21 AM   #181
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David,
Dang was hoping for some Ford transition year improvements! Like the balanced crank shaft. Thanks for the warning. My plan is to have this opened to do a review. But I do know how this slippery slope goes on these projects! You pull the engine and then will be working on the tail lights!
Oil pump, yes understand! I did not do that on a Allis engine and had to pull it again and go through it.
My friend John said he would come and help remove the "B" engine. I will evaluate the transmission removal combo. Since he is a Model A guru that should help a bunch too. Not sure how the frame and commercial configuration is compared to a car??

Used a dremel and sanding sleeves to remove the slight ridge in the axle where the old worn out seal had worn into it. Better that what it was smoothed out. I did price a speedia sleeve. it was about $50. I have install them before, this one would be a challenge because it is at the back end of the shaft near the base.


I got the seals installed in the rear inner drums, after packing the bearings.
The red is the seal. Filled the spring side with grease then used my all-thread contraption with a set of plates and spacers to pull the seals into the home position. Crude but effective!
Bearings in, ready for the seal. Thease are 4 inch o.d. 2.875 i.d. x .40 inches thick, from Snyder's


Seal started:




The set up for holding the drum.




Seal tucked in with snap ring in position:


Drivers side done. Also completed the Passengers side. Just will need to do final brake tuning.


Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-27-2021, 11:31 AM   #182
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Chris,

One of the advantages of a '32 BB over the '33-'34 versions is the high degree of commonality they share with the passenger cars and commercial vehicles starting with the cab, firewall, hood, radiator shell, radiator, and your left front fender, etc.

Of course the chassis is unique, but the components involved in removing the engine and transmission are similar, just larger. The four-cylinder engine/transmission assembly is a tight squeeze exiting and entering the engine compartment. Hopefully you have one of the attachments for your chain fall that permits you to vary the angle of that which you are lifting as that makes the job a lot easier. The crank pulley is cast iron and far from chip proof so be extra careful when clearing the upside-down U-bolts on top of the highest point of the front cross member which retain the front spring beneath.
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Old 06-27-2021, 08:57 PM   #183
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David,
Yes I do have a engine leveler too. Will watch the pulley. Thanks for the heads up on that.
The next few days I am going to try to get the rims ready for tires. Have decided to clean the inside portion and paint with Rustoelum 2X flat black primer. Recommended by John the "A" guy. Sounds good to me, so picked up 4 cans of that today at Wally world.
No work on the 32 this p.m. as I helped shock barley at our club grounds. then hauled a Allis D17 to the daughters for her to use for brush hoging work on her farm.






Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-28-2021, 09:54 AM   #184
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Default Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

It's been a long time since I saw a working grain binder. Not exactly pleasant memories.It was my job growing up to grease and oil, install the canvas aprons , load the binder twine and thread the needle. As to shocking that was an all day job in the field, hot sweaty & itchey. Ah, the good old days. Really like your truck.
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Old 06-30-2021, 06:27 AM   #185
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Folk,
Laptop is down. Limited usage on my phone.
4 wheels are cleaned and painted. Have appointment next Tuesday to get tires installed on rims.
Rain today.
Contracted with upholstery guy, Dave to do the three piece seat.

Need pictures of your 32 truck back seat fit in! New Snyder springs fit just under the wooden band below the window. Old springs are 2 inches taller? Like the base they my not be original to truck???
Picked a color for material. It's a dark blue almost black called tuxedo blue. Grandson Devin helped pick it out! Matches the color of the exterior nicely. Could have done black but this caught my eye.
Have to work on attachment brackets for the seat back. Wait let me ask does your 32 seat back fasten to the wood under the window??
I do need to work on the wood for the seat bases too. Will build two sets. Should have it figured out by then.
Pictures will be lagging due to computer issues, sorry.
Hope things are good in Ford land!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-30-2021, 07:20 AM   #186
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Chris,

Judging from your earlier photos the seat back was replaced, likely when the bottom cushions were replaced. It appears to be about 2" too high, which is consistent with your comparison with the springs from Snyder's. You can see part of one of the three upper seat back retaining brackets in the photo below. There's three different brackets that catch the bottom edge of the spring that attach to the three wood uprights behind the springs. I'll take a photo of both brackets later today; they are easy to make if missing.

I've added another photo showing one of the original lower seat back retaining bracket in place.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg closed cab seat back.jpg (74.6 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg closed cab lower seat back retainiing bracket.jpg (52.8 KB, 45 views)

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Old 06-30-2021, 11:19 AM   #187
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David, folks,
Exactly why I came here. Great information in a timely manner to keep me moving. Ok I had the wrong seats in the truck! Makes perfect sense. I have call into Chris at Snyder's but David have provided details an pictures confirming that both the back and bottom were wrong. Makes me glad a bought all three new from the seat spring experts at Snyder's! Ok I have the bottom brackets in place. Ok I will rework the upper ones to fit the wood and the seat springs and get them attached to the seat springs. Sorry about my lack of pictures right now.
May work on the seats a little today.
My upholstery guy ask if the trucks had head liners or cardboard around the rear window??
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-30-2021, 11:30 AM   #188
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What a great find, I would be excited too. Have fun i will enjoy following this one
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Old 06-30-2021, 12:37 PM   #189
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Chris,


The original interior was bare of headliner and all other cab upholstery beyond the seats, cowl trim panels, and wind lacing around the doors.
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Old 06-30-2021, 04:59 PM   #190
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David, folks,
Thank you. I had that feeling that it was spartan in the cab!
One more wheel to clean and prime.
Had a very good phone call with Chris from Snyder's today. He is going to build me some custom springs for the truck that will be thinner giving me a couple inches of leg room, and head room too. Plan to exchange mine wit h the new set Friday. Awesome. The cab is pretty tight, so any extra room should be very good!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-30-2021, 05:04 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Early Ford Junkie View Post
What a great find, I would be excited too. Have fun i will enjoy following this one
Thanks! I am learning as fast as I cŕn. Trying to make the thread interesting. I go off in weeds often. Keep me on track!
Regards,
Chris
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Old 06-30-2021, 05:45 PM   #192
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“ but I think a tire in the hand is better than two on the internet! ”.......something very prophetic in this statement.......Mark
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Old 06-30-2021, 09:18 PM   #193
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Mark, Folks,
Just a brief update:
Worked the wheels in the yard do to the mess made getting the crust off them:
It was shady and had a cool breeze too.


After clean up I found the garbage can lid was a prefect fit for a mask.




The lock ring:


Springs:


Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:44 PM   #194
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Chris:

Looking good; I sand blasted my wheels on '37 1 1/2 ton and painted gloss black (spray can). Bought tires from Coker, 6:50 x 20 and mounted myself( used chain around when inflating and was careful with the splint rim). Used plywood for floor in cab. Made/cut out floor mat out of rubber I got from Lebaron Bonney(before they went belly up) and got "kick panels" from them as well. There was a "map" pouch on passenger side(made out of metal that Macks sell out of Moberly,MO.

Henry
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Old 07-01-2021, 10:02 PM   #195
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Henry, Folks,
Thank you for the tips. I had to resist the urge to clean and paint the entire wheel! That what I usually do when putting on new rubber on anything around here. 7 rims and lock rings ready,


I had help in the shop tonight! Cooper (great grandson) Thought the 32 was pretty nice!


Had a chance to clean the radiator cap. Yep it is a EATON!


Filled rad with water took about a gallon to top it off. Dont see any leaks


Drained the oil in the engine. Well there was sludge at the drain, that I had to poke through.
Got it drained and filled the crankcase with kerosene for a day or so.

Drained the gas tank, will look at the shut off it was plugged solid. Had about 2 gallons of very clear liquid in the gas tank that that smelled like kerosene? This may have help preserve the inside bottom of the tank???

Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-01-2021, 10:23 PM   #196
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Great stuff!

Only thing I can add is I agree with DavidG on Synders. Good group.

Really enjoying the updates!
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Old 07-01-2021, 10:29 PM   #197
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Tinker,
Thanks! Will pickup the new custom seat springs tomorrow from Snyder's.
Here is the material color being ordered for the seats, Tuxedo Blue color:




Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-02-2021, 06:32 PM   #198
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Folks,
We swung by Snyders again today. Met with Don Snyder and Chris the seat guy! Bought a gasket kit for the engine, rebuild kit for the zenith carb, rebuild kit for the fuel pump, and repro fuel shut off for gas tank bottom. If those items and some time and elbow grease I may be able to get fuel to the engine. And 3 quarts of 600 wt lube for the transmission.
Exchanged the spring seat bases and the seat back for reduced thickness units! Very quick turn around on these for my truck project! A tip of the hat to Chris at Snyder's, I gave each of them a pint of our Maple Syrup for their efforts!
Thanks for checking in on me!

Tinker ,
Forgot to mention I have the floor board and the metal cover around the levers and shifter.
Also the glove box is intact and is currently holding the insurance I.D.card!

Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-02-2021, 08:07 PM   #199
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Ford folks,
Just hanging out and listening to old 60's music which is what I grew up on! Kenny Rodgers What condition my condition is in! Also The band Cripple Creek, and Lovin Spoonful, what memories flash back form those late 60's songs! My 32 was resting in storage waiting to be set free 50 years later!

Our triple 'D' thread has reached the magic number of 8266 views. WOW! My wife's birthday is 8-26. I watch numbers! The Deuce serial number missed having her numbers by just one. Close enough for me. I have bought tractors that have her numbers in the casting codes. Ok I am weird! Sorry to digress. Cheryl and I celebrate 50 years this December. Just amazing!

Long day, heading out to check on the 32 and try those seat springs from Snyders custom made for this some how special, magic, truck! Just a old truck! Met so many new friends already. Its doing its job!

Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-03-2021, 05:57 AM   #200
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Folks,
Son Adam sent the dice to me!


The springs are different for sure. I think with some minor adjustments to placement and attachment for the seat back they will be great. And they should provide additional leg room in the cab for me too!
May adjust the seat base up or the back down just a little to close the gap? Will talk to my upholstery guy (Dave) before I do to much moving of things. Not sure how much material (padding) is added?


About 1.5 inches of gap at this time


The pieces of plywood just show the gap.


Off to try to clean up that zenith carb.
Thanks for checking on me! Hope things are good in Ford land too.
Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-03-2021, 08:03 AM   #201
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