The Ford Barn

Tinker · 01-08-2013, 04:33 PM

I plan to plastaguage the mains tonight.

What should I look for in exceptable clearances?

thank you

Tinker · 01-08-2013, 10:52 PM

I want to thank the people that chimed in and yblock thank you for the parts lead.

Tinker · 01-17-2013, 03:37 PM

Waiting on a few things to update.

But in the mean time if anyone is in need of a good "Cruise-O-Matic" I have a one. Will not ship.

sprink88 · 01-29-2013, 06:18 PM

Is it a Cruise-o or a Fordo? I have Fordo's laying around but may use a Cruise-o if my new(er) one is toast. I see your in MN/FL. Hope your talking from MN. here!

How much BTW?

Tinker · 02-18-2013, 01:24 PM

Update on the Y-Block.

I plasti'ed the mains and they are within the top end of the tolerances at .0025. No cracked mains. Bottom of cylinders to piston is .001. After talking to a few people I feel decent about running this engine for now.

After a bunch of block cleaning, special attention to the oil passages, I'm moving forward with bolting pieces on as they are cleaned and refurb'ed. New gaskets on everything.

Replaced the timing gears and chain as the old chain was so worn you could almost slip it off the gears, seriously! Installed at 3 o'clock position and 12 pins between.

New front oil seal and the timing cover is on. Harmonic balancer installed. New freeze plugs.

Truck oil pan, pickup tube. (I have to move the dipstick to the center location so the front dipstick tube hole was plugged and the side center location was opened up.)

A little blue paint. Was looking for the blue that had a little green in it (not quite turquoise though) but couldn't find any locally. So light blue it is.

Heads look good, no cracks. A bunch more cleaning to do, well a lot more to do over all. But I think this is going to work great for what I need. Time will tell once I get to a running engine again.

Hey at the very least I'm gathering the parts I need and will only be out a gasket set and a can of rattle can if it needs to be rebuilt sooner then later. Well some time too, but it's been a learning experience to say the least.

Tinker · 02-19-2013, 01:50 PM

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57 ford front truck motor mount located, cleaned, and sprayed.

Located a 3sp Bellhousing. Very nice shape. The only thing I had to do to it was paint it. Switching plan from the t5 direction and going to go with the 3sp setup. Have a flywheel from the 239 engine that is a 10in clutch flywheel. I think I should be able to use the clutch plate off the I6 if its a 10 as well. Makes me think that maybe I can use the flywheel too. But not sure if the flywheels from a I6 is the same for a Y-Block.

Waterpump almost cleaned up. I've been using Metal Rescue to get rid of light rust. Wire brush it and throw it in a bucket. Check it every couple hours. Works really well and is eco-safe. No stink, no gloves. Good stuff. Water pump needs one more dose with the wirewheel and then back into the bucket for a couple hours.

parklane · 02-19-2013, 09:15 PM

Why not use molasis and water to get rid of the rust?? It's envior friendly too.

Tinker · 02-20-2013, 09:00 AM

Your right, it is eco friendly too. Feedstores are about an hour from where I live now and gallon for gallon it's the same price, minus the gallons of gas to go get it. The MetalResue has no smell at all. The molasses and water trick does work well.

Tinker · 03-02-2013, 02:36 PM

Engine is off the engine stand and on to stage 2.

Heads cleaned and torqued on. Pushrods next.

Motorhead6 · 03-03-2013, 08:15 AM

I have a set of headers for sale from a y-block in an early F-100 that should bolt right up. Very good shape, but could use some cosmetics. $75.00 plus pick up or shipping. I live in Jacksonville, Fl area.

Tinker · 03-03-2013, 09:26 AM

I sent you a pm Motorhead6.

Motorhead6 · 03-03-2013, 10:46 AM

To answer your original question about the compression reading of 130 psi, that is a good number. There are no advertised compression number for a given engine because it is a function of compression ratio and valve timing. This makes the psi very dependent upon the cam you are using. To prove this, remove the valve rockers and turn the engine over; the psi will dramatically increase. This is why you need to compare high/low readings and guage the health of the engine by these numbers.

You are apparently lookng for exhaust manifolds, not what is commonly referred to as "headers". Headers as normally referred to is a collection of steel tubes that are welded to a header flange. To answer your question on this item, I have only one cast iron manifold which is for the right side of the style introduced in 1957 y-block. The ram-horn style I believe was for the old Lincoln and truck ohv V-8. I believe these were 287 and 317 cid engines although they will bolt onto the y-blocks. Someone will probably corect me on the issue of cid.

Tinker · 03-03-2013, 11:49 AM

My first choice would be ram horns, second would be headers. Looked at reds and have been looking for used decently priced truck manifolds. I am on a budget that is long gone aready.

Thanks for the advice. I know very little about y-blocks, the last 2 months have been a crash course on the basics. Cant wait to fire it up again and test it out.

parklane · 03-03-2013, 10:07 PM

[QUOTE=
You are apparently lookng for exhaust manifolds, not what is commonly referred to as "headers". Headers as normally referred to is a collection of steel tubes that are welded to a header flange. To answer your question on this item, I have only one cast iron manifold which is for the right side of the style introduced in 1957 y-block. The ram-horn style I believe was for the old Lincoln and truck ohv V-8. I believe these were 287 and 317 cid engines although they will bolt onto the y-blocks. Someone will probably corect me on the issue of cid.[/QUOTE]

Actually, there are 2 different 'ramshorn' type of manifolds. The ones for the Lincoln will not work on a Y block Ford engine. The Ford type have the bolt holes in a straight line across the manifold, where the Lincoln are staggard. More than a few guys looking for the Ford type have been duped by the seller telling them that they will fit.

Tinker · 03-03-2013, 10:14 PM

I was looking for parts numbers online but didnt find any, thank you that is very helpful. Im also having problems locating a water pump pully. The early 239 is to shallow and a later truck one 2.75" deep is too deep. Probably a very a common pully, but the details are adding up even though im trying to be smart about it. I know i will get there eventually.

shuffster · 03-03-2013, 10:14 PM

It seems like years ago when I did a Y block, I got the head gaskets on wrong which apparently is easy to do. Get them on wrong and the water doesn't flow right and the engine over heats and things get bad. Just a reminder. Engine looking good.

Tinker · 03-03-2013, 10:52 PM

Thanks. I bought a gasket set from speedway. Good set with some duplicates included. I think they are best gaskets. Head gaskets are fiber and are marked front. I also used copper spray as directed by best gaskets website.

I didnt drill any holes in the block or head for added cooling for the center of the heads. There is a few mods in the process that i didnt do. But i see how they could be very benifical. Next y-block i do.

Tinker · 03-06-2013, 03:55 PM

Pushrods in. Adjusted rockers with the quarter turn method.
Gapped and cleaned the old sparkplugs. .35
Gapped points. .16

Rigged a soleniod with a handheld starter button.

Carberator needs work so I'm bottle feeding it, hard to get an idle that way :]'

Have new wires,cap,rotor, and plugs to put on yet, but since the carb is still an issue I'll wait till it's a little farther along. Plan to also setup a makeshift coolant tank so I can go through the cooling system before installing it in the truck.

Oh yeah, here is the video link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbMDI...ature=youtu.be

Hot Rod Reverend · 03-06-2013, 10:02 PM

I like these headers. This video is with them installed on a 292 Y block on an engine run stand... the headers are a truck header I believe, but the race car drivers cut the hole through the fenders and make them fender well exits...

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...100_4309-1.mp4

Tinker · 03-07-2013, 08:49 AM

and supercharged too. Nice.

I'm thinking the stubbies might work but I can get ram horns for a little more. I don't want to cut into the wheel wells which I would have to do with the ones in the video.

Stubbies - I'll have to give reds a call and see if these will fit without cutting anything. Anybody use these on your truck?

01-08-2013, 04:33 PM	#21
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! I plan to plastaguage the mains tonight. What should I look for in exceptable clearances? thank you

01-08-2013, 10:52 PM	#22
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! I want to thank the people that chimed in and yblock thank you for the parts lead. Last edited by Tinker; 01-17-2013 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Re-read my post and thought it sounded wrong.

01-17-2013, 03:37 PM	#23
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! Waiting on a few things to update. But in the mean time if anyone is in need of a good "Cruise-O-Matic" I have a one. Will not ship.

01-29-2013, 06:18 PM	#24
sprink88 Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 39	Re: New to the Y Block! Is it a Cruise-o or a Fordo? I have Fordo's laying around but may use a Cruise-o if my new(er) one is toast. I see your in MN/FL. Hope your talking from MN. here! How much BTW?

02-19-2013, 09:15 PM	#27
parklane Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St.Thomas, ON Canada Posts: 598	Re: New to the Y Block! Why not use molasis and water to get rid of the rust?? It's envior friendly too. __________________ If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly

02-20-2013, 09:00 AM	#28
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! Your right, it is eco friendly too. Feedstores are about an hour from where I live now and gallon for gallon it's the same price, minus the gallons of gas to go get it. The MetalResue has no smell at all. The molasses and water trick does work well.

03-03-2013, 08:15 AM	#30
Motorhead6 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Orange Park, Fl Posts: 406	Re: New to the Y Block! I have a set of headers for sale from a y-block in an early F-100 that should bolt right up. Very good shape, but could use some cosmetics. $75.00 plus pick up or shipping. I live in Jacksonville, Fl area.

03-03-2013, 09:26 AM	#31
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! I sent you a pm Motorhead6.

03-03-2013, 10:46 AM	#32
Motorhead6 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Orange Park, Fl Posts: 406	Re: New to the Y Block! To answer your original question about the compression reading of 130 psi, that is a good number. There are no advertised compression number for a given engine because it is a function of compression ratio and valve timing. This makes the psi very dependent upon the cam you are using. To prove this, remove the valve rockers and turn the engine over; the psi will dramatically increase. This is why you need to compare high/low readings and guage the health of the engine by these numbers. You are apparently lookng for exhaust manifolds, not what is commonly referred to as "headers". Headers as normally referred to is a collection of steel tubes that are welded to a header flange. To answer your question on this item, I have only one cast iron manifold which is for the right side of the style introduced in 1957 y-block. The ram-horn style I believe was for the old Lincoln and truck ohv V-8. I believe these were 287 and 317 cid engines although they will bolt onto the y-blocks. Someone will probably corect me on the issue of cid.

03-03-2013, 11:49 AM	#33
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! My first choice would be ram horns, second would be headers. Looked at reds and have been looking for used decently priced truck manifolds. I am on a budget that is long gone aready. Thanks for the advice. I know very little about y-blocks, the last 2 months have been a crash course on the basics. Cant wait to fire it up again and test it out.

03-03-2013, 10:07 PM	#34
parklane Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St.Thomas, ON Canada Posts: 598	Re: New to the Y Block! [QUOTE= You are apparently lookng for exhaust manifolds, not what is commonly referred to as "headers". Headers as normally referred to is a collection of steel tubes that are welded to a header flange. To answer your question on this item, I have only one cast iron manifold which is for the right side of the style introduced in 1957 y-block. The ram-horn style I believe was for the old Lincoln and truck ohv V-8. I believe these were 287 and 317 cid engines although they will bolt onto the y-blocks. Someone will probably corect me on the issue of cid.[/QUOTE] Actually, there are 2 different 'ramshorn' type of manifolds. The ones for the Lincoln will not work on a Y block Ford engine. The Ford type have the bolt holes in a straight line across the manifold, where the Lincoln are staggard. More than a few guys looking for the Ford type have been duped by the seller telling them that they will fit. __________________ If brains were wire, some couldn't short circuit a firefly

03-03-2013, 10:14 PM	#35
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! I was looking for parts numbers online but didnt find any, thank you that is very helpful. Im also having problems locating a water pump pully. The early 239 is to shallow and a later truck one 2.75" deep is too deep. Probably a very a common pully, but the details are adding up even though im trying to be smart about it. I know i will get there eventually.

03-03-2013, 10:14 PM	#36
shuffster Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 15	Re: New to the Y Block! It seems like years ago when I did a Y block, I got the head gaskets on wrong which apparently is easy to do. Get them on wrong and the water doesn't flow right and the engine over heats and things get bad. Just a reminder. Engine looking good.

03-03-2013, 10:52 PM	#37
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! Thanks. I bought a gasket set from speedway. Good set with some duplicates included. I think they are best gaskets. Head gaskets are fiber and are marked front. I also used copper spray as directed by best gaskets website. I didnt drill any holes in the block or head for added cooling for the center of the heads. There is a few mods in the process that i didnt do. But i see how they could be very benifical. Next y-block i do.

03-06-2013, 03:55 PM	#38
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! Pushrods in. Adjusted rockers with the quarter turn method. Gapped and cleaned the old sparkplugs. .35 Gapped points. .16 Rigged a soleniod with a handheld starter button. Carberator needs work so I'm bottle feeding it, hard to get an idle that way :]' Have new wires,cap,rotor, and plugs to put on yet, but since the carb is still an issue I'll wait till it's a little farther along. Plan to also setup a makeshift coolant tank so I can go through the cooling system before installing it in the truck. Oh yeah, here is the video link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbMDI...ature=youtu.be

03-06-2013, 10:02 PM	#39
Hot Rod Reverend Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lancaster, CA Posts: 917	Re: New to the Y Block! I like these headers. This video is with them installed on a 292 Y block on an engine run stand... the headers are a truck header I believe, but the race car drivers cut the hole through the fenders and make them fender well exits... http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...100_4309-1.mp4 __________________ Lancaster, California Visit hotrodreverend.com to view hundreds of pictures and videos of the build of the 1955 Ford Club Sedan!

03-07-2013, 08:49 AM	#40
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: New to the Y Block! and supercharged too. Nice. I'm thinking the stubbies might work but I can get ram horns for a little more. I don't want to cut into the wheel wells which I would have to do with the ones in the video. Stubbies - I'll have to give reds a call and see if these will fit without cutting anything. Anybody use these on your truck?