How much trouble am I in? '47 rear axel

[em1davis]

So in my attempts to remove my rear wheel bearing and drum I managed to foul the threads on the axle bolt.. Before I try to use a die on it can I just replace it bolt. It looks like there is a slotted pin that holds it in but really want to stop drowning and get back on the road again.
So I can't upload the picture using my phone but here is a link to it in my Google account.

Thanks for the help.


https://plus.google.com/app/basic/ph...a%26pgpnum%3D1

[Mart]

You can't replace it, it isn't a bolt. That thread is part of the axle shaft.

You might be able to retrieve enough of the thread for it to work again.

You need to get a split die onto the good threads and wind it off the axle, cleaning up the damaged threads as it winds off.

i have done this by buying a new die, slitting it part way through with a thin disc, then breaking it apart. I then used the die holder to hold it onto the threads.

The thread is 5/8-18 UNF.

Buy a die, fix it.

If you can't fix it you are into rear axle removal, shaft replacement and a whole world of pain.

You could try a series of sacrificial castle nuts, split in two and wound off in the same manner.

You need to improve your pulling technique.

Mart.

[Talkwrench]

I hear ya.. My R / H / s one is crapy, I shit myself when I have to do it up. Now that I'm removing the diff maybe I can find another , but won't hold my breath..

[Terry,OH]

The nut that holds the rear wheel brake drum and hub in place is on the end of the axle. The threads you may have messed up are part of the axle and they are not a common thread (the nut is also special thread). Being on the axle, to replace the threads requires the axle to be replaced. That requires the rear differential to come apart.
The nut and threads takes a lot of stress since they are usually attached together at about 200 Ft. Lb. of torque. If the threads are not good there is a POSSIBILITY the nut will not be able to torque to this value without stripping the threads off the axle.
The best way to remove the drum is to back off the brake shoe adjustment, remove the nut, remove the seal under the nut washer, then using a K R Wilson style rear brake drum removal tool remove the drum. The tool is sold as a high quality reproduction. This tool will not bend or warp the brake drum and cause damage to the threads on the axle shaft.
The brake drum hub (in the center of the drum) has a female tapered surface that matches the male taper on the axle shaft. Through this tapered surface is a 1/4" X 1/4" square key (to prevent the hub from rotating on the tapered surface) so the hub has to be pulled off the taper and the key straight off.
As Mart mentions above there is a split die repair tool, put it over the good threads and then thread it off the axle, this may be your best bet in repairing the messed up threads. The thread basic size and thread count is rather common what is special about the thread is the class of fit between the nut and axle threads.

[Mart]

Just found this:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...-i-cut.573842/

Mart.

[JM 35 Sedan]

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The axle nuts are also special in their material/heat treatment/hardness since they must maintain a high torque of 200-220 ft/#'s. If their threads are damaged, replace them with correct parts. You won't find these in a hardware store.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

The axle nuts are also special in their material/heat treatment/hardness since they must maintain a high torque of 200-220 ft/#'s. If their threads are damaged, replace them with correct parts. You won't find these in a hardware store.

John, I am with you on this one. REPLACE the axle.

[Al in MN]

I worked off and on 2 days trying to remove hub ,would not come so I built this puller and in 15 minuets had the hub off!! Al

[JM 35 Sedan]

Nice work Al. I made a crude/less eloquent drum/hub puller using 1/4" & 5/16" steel plates and machine bolts. Only had one Lincoln rear drum that this puller could not remove.

[joel]

Nice work! I may have to copy that.

[Al in MN]

Thanks guys, I could hardly beleive how good it worked.............
Al

[Bassman/NZ]

Those drum/hub pullers come up second hand. I got one real cheap from an auction site.

[JSeery]

The photo is not the best, but looks like almost all of the damage is in the nut castle part. If the threads are damaged at and toward the outside of the cotter pin hole they have little to no effect on the final torque and strength of the nut. If the threads are damaged very fare beyond the hole (towards the car) then it becomes a different matter. This type of thread damage has been repaired may time with great success, just depends on the extent of the damage.

See Mart #2

[Mart]

I just ordered a puller from vintage precision. They shipped it out the same day with very reasonable postage costs. Excellent service.

Mart.

[em1davis]

Believe it or not I used a bearing puller from these guys,

http://vintageprecision.com/products...ers/index.html

I'm not sure how it got fouled all up but the threads on the puller are dead now too. When we spun it on it went on fine with no issues so it didn't feel cross-threaded. The damage is only on the 1st 1/2 or so, so I'm pretty optimistic about if the Die set works having enough threads for torquing it down.

Now I need a new thrust plate nut for my puller.

Thanks for the help, I've got an adjustable die on order 2day shipping from amazon.

Jason

[Bob C]

Looking at the picture of your axle I think the key needs to
be turned end for end and rotated 180 degrees.

Bob

[em1davis]

Any pictures of what the key looks like installed properly?

[supereal]

The best rear hub puller, bar none, is the KRW repro sold by Winfield Tool Works. I've had one for years. Many axle threads have been damaged by using a "knock off" nut and a big hammer, or a three legged gear puller. The Winfield has gotten somewhat pricey over the years, but it will pay for itself with the first hub and drum saved.