1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

[Hot Rod Reverend]

I had a little time to hit the shop again today and I was able to get the upper control arms all back together and ready for paint.


I blasted them in the cabinet and then coated them with the solution you see pictured. It is an off the shelf product from Lowe's. It took some time to dry, but that could be because of the lower temperatures at this time of this year.

After that I fitted the rear bushings to both control arms. The rear bushing is the one with the "step" that will stop you from driving it all the way to the lip. I advise you to be careful if you ever replace your bushings... that step on the bushings I had did not look too pronounced. It looked more like a "line" drawn around the circumference of the bushing.


Since I don't have a press, I decided to drive the bushings home with some pipe that fit just over the rubber, but met the lip of the bushing head - on. 1 and 1/2 inch pipe is what I used. It worked very well as you can see and I simply placed the arm on the vise and hammered each bushing home. I did do some preliminary painting to a few parts, but that was just so when I painted after they were assembled I could already have paint in those hard to reach areas. Also, beating and banging with a hammer on anything painted is going to mar it up big time.


I used some anti-seize on the shafts and the threads, but I was able to reuse all of the hardware. You can probably see that one of the old lock washers were broken - that was replaced from my hardware stash. Also, of the 3 washers that pertain to each control arm, one of them is larger than the other two. The larger one goes on the inside of the control arm at the rear after you slide the washer on the shaft. The other two washers go on the outside of the control arm on either side of course. One note here... the control arm is "springy" - in other words you can't get the second bushing on by simply "tightening down" the busing on the shaft using the threaded stud because the arm will bend with it. Both bushings have to be either pressed on or hammered on like I did.



I plan to paint them pretty soon, and I have started on the lower control arms with clean up. My sandblaster went out on me the other day because of the "el-cheapo" dead man valve so I am having to put those in the glassbead cabinet. The lower control arms are in a whole lot worse cosmetic shape than the upper control arms were. The passenger side arm is clean, blasted, and was just coated with the Prep Primer tonight.
On we go.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

For all of the success I have had, I did experience a "DUH!" moment last night when I was installing the bushings in the lower control arms. Note the photos... Maybe it was because it was thanksgiving week and I was distracted with deer hunting, smoking a turkey, having folks in, baking all kinds of food with the wife, Christmas decorations, blah, blah, blah. I don't know. The 55 Ford shop manual is a tick misleading when you look a the diagram. It shows the lower control arm bushing coming in from the front side, but if you look at it closely in the manual you can see a faint, dashed line, showing insertion from the BACK! Yep, I didn't catch all of this until I had fully seated the first bushing!!! When you do these, remember that both bushings, front and rear, are installed from the INSIDE of the arm facing out.... the large cupped washer should compress up against the rubber that is on the lip side of the bushing.



How I ended up getting that bushing back out of there without damaging it, I do not know. Patience and Henry Ford's spirit :satisfied: I guess...

Here are a couple of photos of the CORRECT installation

The other bushings and the other control arm all went well so we are about ready for paint. I did have to weld a nut onto the other control arm, but that was really a piece of cake. I will post photos later. I am about ready to clean up the spindles and start installing some of these items back on the frame. It will feel good to do that soon. Pilgrim's Progress lol...

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Basically one of the nuts had dislodged itself from the shock mounting location on the lower control arm. I think this happened when I was like 18 or something. Anyhow, I did get the nut to tighten down by sticking a screwdriver between the coils and hold it down while I put the bolt through. That was a long time ago. When I disassembled the front end, I knew I wanted to make sure those nuts were secure and that I needed to weld the loose one back to the control arm. Mission accomplished, and I decided to tack the other one in as well just for good measure.

[frank long island]

hrr just for future projects you could use a fold over nut as used on the fenders for the shock mount . you can get them at tractor supply home depot lowes and my favorite the mom and pop hardware store if you can find one it should fit with the springs still in just my 2 cents worth possibly a problem solver for another barner

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Originally Posted by frank long island

hrr just for future projects you could use a fold over nut as used on the fenders for the shock mount . you can get them at tractor supply home depot lowes and my favorite the mom and pop hardware store if you can find one it should fit with the springs still in just my 2 cents worth possibly a problem solver for another barner

Good idea --- did not think about that one. I guess I could have used one of the fender nuts that have those special clips. I have about 1000 in my stash in different places!

[alt63bird]

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How did you get the bushing out? I've had mine installed from the wrong side for 30 years now and think maybe it's time to do it right.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Originally Posted by alt63bird

How did you get the bushing out? I've had mine installed from the wrong side for 30 years now and think maybe it's time to do it right.

I used an air chisel and a lot of finesse on the lip of the bushing itself. As you can tell from the photo, there is quite a bit of the bushing protruding enough from the control arm to let you get an air chisel on the lip at a decent angle. If this was being removed from the INSIDE of the arm there would be no way an air chisel would work.

If you look back through some of my posts you can see how I removed the bushings from these arms. I "think" I posted a few photos.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Well the Christmas and New Year's Holiday was good - we had an excellent time with our kids, and a lot of in laws and out laws showed up. I had planned to spend some time in the shop since I would have a few more days off for Christmas but my plans were made in vain. I looked at my calendar and most recent post... it has been well over a month since I have accomplished anything out there. Anyhow, I decided to fire up the diesel "turbo" heater in the garage (you know the kind - it sounds like a jet aircraft taking off and when you run cheap fuel in it you gag over the fumes :w00t. I have owned the one I have for 5 years. I believe it is 210K BTU and all if you run the higher pressure. Over the past 5 years - no problems... until tonight. I hit the switch and the spark plug makes it usual noise, then the fan and fuel pump engage, but no FIRE... when I look inside the cavity--- there is raw fuel on the bottom and it eventually runs out and down the side of the tank. What gives? I thought "Well, that's probably the fuel being sprayed that would not ignite so where else could it go?" I look at the display panel on the side of the unit and wouldn't you know it, the panel reads "E1". I get out the trusty manual and it looks like it could be a dirty photocell that needs to be cleaned off. No biggie. I take off the top cover of the tube and have a "look see". I was shocked at the condition of the two fuel hoses - no wonder the thing was leaking fuel. I took pictures of the hoses and posted them below. Dry rot central. I have never seen rubber hoses go so bad in only 5 years and with very limited use at that. I guess I should have inspected under the cover each year before firing it up just to check on things, but there never has been a problem with this thing and I keep it very clean. Word to the wise if you own one of these units - the manufacturer uses CHEAP hoses and get this... NO CLAMPS!!! on a fuel pump that runs 8 psi!!!. I looked through my bins and found two, new, fuel injection, automotive grade hoses to install. Much more rigid and probably overkill. Suffice to say, the unit fired right up when I put it all back together and we were ready for action.




After the garage warmed up a bit, I decided to drill the drain holes for the front cross member and take a look at the Internal Frame Coating product from Eastwood (is it a 14 oz load of crap or is it the real deal? - I have no idea). Anyway, the idea is that the long narrow hose attaches to the aerosol can and using the 3 hole tip on the end, the user can slide the hose into the frame and coat the interior walls of the frame as he pulls the hose back out while he is spraying. Let me tell you that if you have any notion to use this kind of product, be prepared for a mess! :crazy: I believe it worked well. As you can see from the photos, I did enough heavy coats to have the product coming out the drain holes of the cross member. It was messy enough that I need to go back and repaint the satin black on parts of the frame, but that's no bid deal. This cross member is going to out last my lifetime that is for sure! I already have the upper and lower control arms painted so we are getting close to beginning reassembly. I need to get the car rolling again so that I can move it in and out of the shop for body work.

[darrell]

how far does a can go.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

The only part of the frame I was doing was this crossmember so I did not use very much of the can. Although I did go over it 3 x which was overkill and the coating started running out of my weep holes. I would think for our 55/56 Ford frames it would take 3 cans to do the entire job.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

I like progress! Last night I cleaned up the mounting bolts and did some work to the front end by installing the upper and lower control arms. When you get to a stage like this, it makes you very happy that you took notes and bagged and tagged your hardware. For instance, I decided to bag and label those shims that are used to align the wheels on the upper control arms. I also did that for the lower control arms where the large shim washers are used for the front of the control arm where it attaches to the cross member (more on that later though).



The hardware was blasted where needed and threads cleaned with a wire wheel. I also used copious amounts of bearing grease on the large shoulder bolts and a good does of anti-seize on the mounting bolts for the upper control arms. I started with the driver's side lower control arm first. After laying down some fresh cardboard to keep my arms from getting scratched by the floor, I put the driver's side into position. Immediately I noticed that it was not a tight fit, and that if I installed the arm there would be play back and forth as the arm's bushings would slide on the shoulder bolts. Thinking I would rather have some "springiness" in there and make it tight rather than letting it slide around, I chose the shim(s) I needed to take out play and even had to use a pry bar to wedge it back in (not a lot of prying but enough to bring 1/8" in to meet up the holes). So I slid both bolts into the holes but did not put them all the way through. I then got the holes of the arms to line up with the holes on the cross members. After that, the bolts went through with just a little tap and we were set to reinstall the cup washer, lock washer, and nut. A word of advice on the shim--- grease the side that goes towards the crossmember. It will stay put for you as you align the arms since they are very snug. I did take a photo of the bolt being placed in the front crossmember and where the shim washer goes. Note that the straight edge goes towards to the top to fit up under the lip of the cross member itself. It would be a good idea to check the fitment of all of your bolts and hardware before starting the installation process anyway. The shoulder bolts have a whopping 1 1/8" head and the nuts are 15/16". I decided to NOT tighten these arms to spec on their torque, just leaving them a little loose until I install the spindle and ball joints. I am not so sure whether or not anything will bind up, but I thought it wise to wait. Maybe someone out there can tell me different on that.




The upper control arms attach to the frame mounts with out much fanfare...especially if you kept your shims labeled. I am not sure how much this will help with the front end alignment because of new parts, etc. But I believe it will help things out until I get the car to the shop and they are able to put it on the alignment rack. Note the orientation of the upper control arm also - the mount for the upper ball joint goes towards the REAR of the car. You need a 3/4" socket and/or wrench to meet the head and nut size. I put each control arm up into position and then slide the bolts through. I attached the lock washers and nuts, leaving things loose, and then I placed the shims in their correct locations. After that, the arms were torqued to spec and allowed to rest.



The picture below has a little back story. As I located all of the shoulder bolts and hardware for the lower control arms, I could not find one of the cup washers. "What did I do with that thing?" I asked myself. "Surely I didn't throw it away!" I groaned as I rummaged around. I finally decided to check my junk pile. Wouldn't you know it but one of the bushings that had basically disintegrated and fell off in my hands during disassembly CARRIED THE CUP WASHER with it. Glad I didn't just chuck it all in the trash! I rescued it, shook my head, and the cleaned it up for reinstallation.


The last photo here is of the extra shims. I did save all of the shims and bagged them for which side, etc, when I removed the lower control arms a few months ago. So, why didn't I need to reinstall them? I figure it had to do with this... installing new bushings meant that the overall distance from end to end on where the arms would mount up to the crossmember holes CHANGED. There is no way I would be duplicating the same distance from the factory and I believe that is why the shims are there in the first place - to take out the play from front to rear so the arm itself does not slide. The only movement it should have is rotating on the shoulder bolts themselves.


Time to get those spindles cleaned up! They are soaking in the parts washer as I write this post. And... I have new front springs to install. I have not yet purchased the shocks for the front end. Any suggestions? The springs are the Aerostar springs that will lower things about 2 inches. I already have new upper and lower ball joints and hardware.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Sometimes you have moments when you stand back and admire your work. Other times you stand back and look and you say to yourself... "There's a reason I don't make a livin' doing this kind of thing."
If you are a very observant individual and know your 55/56 Fords very well, you noticed that I left out the two "collars" that surround the front bushing on the lower control arm. I really do not know what overall purpose they serve, but I reckon since Ford installed them originally I should probably put them back. So... off with the arms and on with the collars and reinstall the bolts and nuts! :hehe:

Here is a photo of what I am talking about...


I did get the upper and lower ball joints installed, but I did not have the bumpers for the upper joints. The irony is that the kit I received had 3 bolts, nuts, and washers per upper ball joint, and then 2 bolts, nuts, and washers for the lower ball joints. There are 3 holes for each joint. I have the lower bumpers.... guess I need to order the upper bumpers or is there a reason why they are no longer needed?


I have a set of the Aerostar coil springs and new rubber to insulate them in the frame all ready to go. They are waiting their turn. I did get the spindles cleaned today and gave them their first coat of paint.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

I got off my rear end last night and reinstalled both spindles and the new coil springs. My 11 year old son came in the garage and said, "Dad, it looks like a new car!" J And so it is looking pretty good. To install the coil spring and spindle, I basically set up a floor jack with some cardboard so as not scratch the new paint on the lower arm. The coil spring rubber goes on the top of the spring where the coil is flat. The other side of course matches an indentation in the lower control arm where the end (and bottom coil of the spring) rests. I was sure to get it into the groove as the lower control arm made its way up. But before I started jacking anything, I took a good look at the ball joints and decided to take a small punch into the cotter pin hole and orient the stud so that when the spindle was installed I would not have a problem inserting/removing the cotter pin. There is very little room behind that upright on the spindle.





You can tell that I cut down the lower bump stop about 1" and I did decide to install the bumper for the upper control arm. For the record, I cut the lower bumper before installing the spindle and spring. A sawzall made quick work of the problem. With the lower ride height that I am expecting from the Aerostar coils the car is going to need the extra room. Thanks to fellas on this site for that recommendation.



After orienting the studs, I actually install the spindle to the upper arm and get the nut as tight as I can. Then, I pump the jack and bring the lower control arm up to seat the coil in its pocket. On its way up the lower hole in the spindle is filled by the stud in the lower ball joint and with just a few more pumps the stud is all the way through. The top nut is 7/8" and the lower nut is 15/16" socket size. When the stud is all the way through I do like to rap the upper ball joint with a hammer/wood combination to get it to "seat" and take out play (if there is any). That may not be the most ASE certified way to do it, but it gets the job done. I will most probably check those nuts again after the engine is reinstalled and before the car goes to the alignment shop. The large bolts that connect both the upper and lower arms to the frame will be left just tight enough to hold until the full weight of the engine and front end is put back on the suspension and the car is sitting at ride height. Then we will tighten all four down before it moves out to the alignment shop.



I snapped a couple of photos of the differences in front sway bar bushings as well. The old bushing and bracket that was used for the wagon bar was original and was "wallowed" out, dry rotted, and just plain useless as you can see. The new bushings from Energy Suspension (again, due to a lead by Jeff on this site) are made of polyurethane and are also able to be greased. Once my tube of synthetic grease arrives in the mail I will reinstall the front sway bar, but again only just to keep it on snug until the full weight of the car is down. I did see a big difference between the old bolts and bushings that held the bar to the control arm when I compared the old ones from the wagon bar to the new ones I received. Hopefully it is just a difference in the size/compacting of the rubber grommets.



And finally, a couple shots of the Aerostar Coil Springs before installation. I purchased new rubber insulators and capped them off before putting each one in position. I guess it goes without saying, but you want to make sure you put the flat end up in the frame, and the end with the coil "sticking out" sits in the pocket of your lower control arm. You can follow the guide of the indentation in the tray of the arm to get the correct orientation.





Waiting on shocks now and we should be good to go here!

[Y-Blockhead]

What shocks are you using? If you haven't decided yet, may I recommend KYB Gas-a-Just all around. They work great on these old Fords, takes the 'wallow' out. With the KYB's and Aerostar Springs you won't believe how well it handles.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

KYB 3014/3015 shocks... they are GR2 gas units

do you have a part number for KYB Gas-a-Just? what would be the difference?

[Y-Blockhead]

Daniel, I'm not familiar with KYB GR2. The Gas-aJust #'s are Front KG4503, Rear KG5517

[Hot Rod Reverend]

I will look those numbers up - thank you. I measured those shocks for the front end tonight - 1" longer than what I had!!! If I am going with a lower stance by at least 2 ", then a 3" overall taller shock just aint' gonna work too well - don't you think?

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Today I had some time to install the sway bar with the new Energy Suspension brand polyurethane bushings and the stabilizer hardware kit to attach the sway bar to the lower control arm. I had snapped more photos but my camera went haywire when I got back inside the house and my SD card was EMPTY! go figure. The nice things about these ES bushings are: polyurethane, the 7/8" size was in stock, they come with new brackets, and the bushings are greasable! I used a synthetic grease from Super Lube. I also like the small plastic caps that cover your Zerk fittings but I don't know how long they will last. No modification needed for the brackets - they fit the frame perfectly. Basically, I laid the sway bar in position and let it rest on the lower control arms. I then slipped a bushing on each end (I greased them inside first too) and slid them into position on the bar so that they would go right up the frame. Next, I put the brackets on loosely and checked the fitment. Once I was satisfied with it I pivoted the bar in the bushings back and forth to get the grease worked into the bushings and bar real good. Then I installed the hardware kits on each lower control arm. Notice that the hardware kits were not cinched down too tightly. I think it will be best to tighten those down once the weight of the car is back on the front end like it should be. I did cinch down the brackets to the frame however, and after doing so I greased them with synthetic lube. The sway bar is a station wagon sway bar with a 7/8" diameter. I think I got it from a 56 Ford Ranchwagon. The hardware kit and the bolts that attach the brackets to the frame have a 9/16" head by the way.


The photo above is the difference of the old worn out bushings in the station wagon sway bar and what the new ones look like. Think it will help? :P
On to the Backing Plates and the Spindle Arms. They cleaned up nicely. I only put one coat of Rustoleum on the inside of the backing plate. Not too sure how the paint will hold up in there anyway but thought it would be good to at least try to control some of the rust. I use silicone brake fluid anyway so we should be ok. I think it worth mentioning here again about the location of your bolts that hold the castle nut and cotter pin. I like to make sure I have mine oriented all the same way and in a location that I can get to just in case I have to start fishing those cotter pins out again anytime soon. I face them up so I can find things easily and see how to twist/turn the ears made by bending the cotter pin so as to get the cotter pin back out more easily next time. I also used a little anti-seize on the threads. You will need a 3/4" and a 9/16" wrench to tighten them down, but only one each... the grease guard plate acts as a head stop on the front side.



A quick word about hardware and some photos to explain. I like using as much of the old hardware as I can, provided it is in good condition. Two reasons... odd ball sizes as far as lengths can be a pain to locate at the local hardware store and it saves money in the long run. A while back I started using a small Ultrasonic Cleaner to degrease hardware and parts. You would not believe how well it does with carburetors!!! I stopped using solvent and Berryman's a long time ago. Basically a bottle or two of the $ store "Awesome" brand cleaner and some water in the tank. Heat it up with the touch of button, set the unit to run for several minutes and you are good to go. Take out the parts, rinse, dry, and then over to the blast cabinet. Blast cabinet you say? what about all those washers and nuts that fall through the cracks? Well, here is the answer - a cricket tube from Wal-Mart. It is the perfect size to hold in your hand. You can rotate the tube while you blast and you can see everything in it. There is no way for any part to escape. Shake the tube when done and all the media falls out and you are left with clean hardware. I like it and it has served me well. Bolts that need to be chucked because of wear or corrosion show up pretty easily as you can see.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

Been down and out the past few days with a serious sinus infection. I started antibiotics yesterday and only just a few hours ago have I felt any better. At any rate, my KG4503 KYB front shocks finally arrived so I was a little motivated to move out to the 18 degree garage and install them up front. I must say, those things are gas charged and tight! It took me quite a bit to force one in on itself to bench test its "action" The shocks came with new washers, nuts, and rubber grommets of course, but they also had instructions written in about 57 different languages with plenty of "well duh!" diagrams so you get the mounting correct. What in the world could be the issue with mounting shocks you ask? The only thing I see that someone could goof up would maybe be the grommet positioning? Either side of the grommet is different as you can see in the photos. The larger lip goes towards the washer and the smaller diameter lip goes toward the bracket or the shock tower mount on the frame. I assume most people know this but I thought I would point it out. I had already cleaned, blasted, and painted the original brackets even though I thought I had a lead on shocks that had its mounting tabs on the lower end that would work for the lower control arm. So, I simply pulled them back out of storage and mounted the brackets on the bench, making sure I did not get the "grommet bulge" past the washers. As you can see in the photos the shocks came with two nuts per stud, so I assume that one is to lock the other down. To be honest, most of the stud shocks I have ever seen only had one nut, I am not sure why this came with two unless there is something for a different application or what have you. I obviously decided to use the extra nut as a lock nut on each stud. I must admit that I cheated when installing the shocks. I used my floor jack to raise the bracket into position after I had attached the upper stud to the shock mount on the frame.






I also decided to replace the lens in my bead blast cabinet from TP tools. I will post photos on that later. Some of you have asked about the cabinet before so I think it a good time to show some of the maintenance work that needs to be done from time to time.

[Hot Rod Reverend]

My lens protector on my TP Tools Skat Blast Cabinet was getting kind of fuzzy. I have to replace it about twice a year. I have owned the cabinet for about 8 years, and it works very well. I have only had to replace the nozzle 3 times, and I would imagine I use this cabinet about 4-5 hours a week on average. I have had to replace/refill media also on 3 different occasions. I have tried all kinds of brands from TP's glass bead media (the best I have used in my opinion), to Harbor Freight, to Tractor Supply Company. I have only ever used glass beads in the cabinet. I would like to find a way to put another light in the cabinet because of the "shadow" effect with just one light bulb in there. Sometimes it is difficult to see what you are doing in there.
Whenever I replace the lens protector, I always get off all of the old adhesive. Goo Gone works the best for that job, and the new protector sheet always stick to the lens very well. It takes more work, but I never have my lens protector falling down on my gloves and I have never had to replace my lens!

The cabinet is the grey unit along the wall to the right of the engine run stand.