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Old 11-30-2019, 10:22 AM   #21
AllenV
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Well, I am destined to find out, and add my own Pertronix anecdote in time.

On another topic: As I was changing spark plugs yesterday I found that cylinders 1,2, and 7 have had threaded inserts installed. See photos. remarkable in that the plugs with inserts sit substantially further out than the unmolested plugs. How common is this? Should I be concerned? shopping for heads?

The motor seemed to run well when I bought it. Though the choke was stuck full on during the test drive. That was due to a broken choke cable housing, since replaced. As such I have so far only experienced a very fast idle with full choke and a broken vacuum diaphragm on the distributor . I am expecting a much more civilized experience when I get the new distributor installed and timed. Thus I ask the collected expertise if having 3-of-8 plugs "helicoiled" might be a cause of rough or uneven idling.
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File Type: jpg plugHoles.jpg (51.1 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg Plugs.jpg (48.4 KB, 40 views)
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Old 11-30-2019, 11:47 AM   #22
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Those look like anti-fouling inserts, to help keep oil off the sparkplug tips.
.

Last edited by dmsfrr; 11-30-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 11-30-2019, 12:45 PM   #23
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

That is a new one for me. Didn't know of such things. I'll leave 'em for now. See how it runs and get through the compression and leak-down tests.

Thanks again
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Old 12-01-2019, 04:44 AM   #24
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Post Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Used to control poor cylinder oil control - fouled spark plug.
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File Type: jpg Spark Plug Non-Fouler.JPG (39.2 KB, 33 views)
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- DISCLAIMER -

The above posted information is in my opinion only (IMO) and may contain copy and paste material(s).

In addition, any above tech information is supplied in good faith. No responsibility implied or otherwise can be accepted for the way others use or interpret provided data.

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Old 05-29-2020, 12:27 PM   #25
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Smile Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

I am finally back at work on Nellie ( the F100)

Finished with the front spring replacement so she is now safe to roll on her own.

The new FBO distributor with the Pertonix III ignition is installed along with the flamethrower III coil and a new set of plug wires. Recall, that to get the manifold vacuum wanted by the new distributor I tapped into the manifold port used by the PCV, just forward of the carburetor. Then I plugged the ported vacuum on the carburetor.

After some fiddling of chokes and verifying of fueI, air, and spark she lit up! Very first operation since I flat-bedded her home. The uploaded picture is taken with the vacuum disconnect and vacuum line run to a vacuum gauge. The low RPM timing has only just been set at 14 degrees BTDC. It has only been running a few minutes. It is ticking along at some low idle RPM, as yet not measured. The chock is off. That vacuum needle is bouncing only less than 1 needle width.

Sounds decent, oil pressure shows okay pressure, vacuum look okay.

I found a fuel leak at the pressure gauge in front of the carb. I’ll fix that and hook up the vacuum advance….
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File Type: jpg vac guage.jpg (34.7 KB, 22 views)
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Old 05-29-2020, 01:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenV View Post
... new FBO distributor ... Recall, that to get the manifold vacuum wanted by the new distributor I tapped into the manifold port used by the PCV, just forward of the carburetor. Then I plugged the ported vacuum on the carburetor.
….
Unless the instructions for the aftermarket distributor specifically say "manifold vacuum", the vacuum line for the distributor is more correctly connected to the vacuum fitting on the carburetor.
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Old 05-29-2020, 02:14 PM   #27
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Not to worry, the FBO distributor definitely wants manifold vacuum. I verified this with them twice on the phone.

More data:
Idle is 950 rpm
oil pressure varies from 18psi at idle to 38 psi at higher rpm. This is at 190 F temperature. Indications are from an after market

BUT! The brake pedal goes right to the floor! I don't recall this "feature" during the test drive.
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:39 PM   #28
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenV View Post
...
BUT! The brake pedal goes right to the floor! I don't recall this "feature" during the test drive.
That's the 'Meet the neighbors' option. So you have to converse with the folks across the street about damage to their car when attempting to pull out of your driveway. My red '55 almost had that option when the brake booster failed.

The brake fluid may have leaked out somewhere or the seals in the master cyl are gone.
.

Last edited by dmsfrr; 05-29-2020 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 05-29-2020, 05:01 PM   #29
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Fortunately we only have llamas across the street

I was always imaging a complete brake rebuild would be needed. Just not right away. Debating with myself the relative merits of piece-mealing it versus just buying all new parts and doing everything now.
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Old 05-29-2020, 05:31 PM   #30
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Piece mealing generally works when thing are already functional but worn. You will have to see if your master & wheel cylinders are rusty or not.
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Old 05-30-2020, 06:19 PM   #31
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Results of Brake Inspection

Executive Summary: Lots of gunk. Lots of cracked and broken rubber. Creative use of heavy wire on the clutch mechanism. Novel threaded-rod clutch push rod.
Front brake shoe width: 1.75 inch
Rear brake shoe width: 2.00 inch
Evidence of too-wide shoes running in narrow rear drum
Front shoes were put on rear and vice-versa

No obvious fresh brake fluid oozing

Discussion: There is plenty of rust and gunk and most of the rubber is beyond its useful life. The shoes and drums will need to be replaced as the wide shoes in narrow drums have gouged the inner edge of the drum and the narrow shoes in the wide drums have created a wear “step” that would truly mess up operation if an attempt was made to install new wide shoes. The mechanic (me) recommends all new hydraulic cylinders, master and slave as well as new springs and clips. Will need to diagnose the function of the after-market heavy wire.

Photos attached

Bonus photo of the completed front spring install
Attached Images
File Type: jpg front brakes.jpg (37.0 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg rear brakes.jpg (48.1 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg master cyl.jpg (55.0 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg master close.jpg (57.1 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg springs.jpg (79.1 KB, 41 views)
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Old 05-31-2020, 12:11 PM   #32
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Poking at some more. I now see fresh seepage out of the master cylinder .
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Old 06-11-2020, 04:54 PM   #33
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Default Frame Crack

Well… As I was pulling the master brake cylinder I happened to spot a crack in the right side frame rail. See attached image. This is fully half-way through the frame. Location is just at the front edge of the battery box. It must be fixed, and soon. Now the brakes are on hold while I pull the cab off. My plan is to drill a hole at the lower terminus of the crack and then weld the entire length. Then add 1/8-inch doubling plates on the top and side.

Stay tuned.
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File Type: jpg frame_crack copy.jpg (48.0 KB, 23 views)
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Old 06-12-2020, 12:46 AM   #34
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

You might be able to have the drums with the grooves turned down and re-use them, but the other two may need to be scrapped. I noticed a lug bolt missing or twisted off of rear wheel hub.
Its a good idea to drill a hole to terminate that frame crack before welding. I noticed at the top where that crack starts, the lip appears to have been bent down. Maybe heat and straighten using 1/4 inch thick plates above and below tightened down with heavy duty C-clamps, but you would need to work real fast while the metal was hot.
1958 was the first year Fomoco had "FORD" letters embossed onto the valve covers. Earlier years had plain valve covers with a decal.
Those fittings in the heads look like spark-plug anti-foulers. They are there to protect the plugs from getting fouled with oil. May be necessary to replace rings, reem the cylinder wall ridges and do a valve job. After that, those old top oilers will no longer ever be necessary as todays oil is much better refined than it was in the '50's. You have a standard single-action fuel pump with a fuel pressure guage going to a '57 or later 2-bbl carb. There should be no need for a pressure guage with this application and no need for a regulator either, as this type of carb doesn't ordinarily have float inundation problems. But what are you doing about windshield wipers? Electric? If they are vacuum operated, most people would recommend swapping the single-action pump for the dual-action type with vacuum booster for the windshield wipers. I think wiper motor is mounted on firewall under the dashboard.
If you have converted to 12-volt electrical system, the '58 engine is already set up to use the small, stubby temperature sending unit which will not work right with the '55 guage. Maybe see if you can find a '58/59 guage that will fit the '55 cluster? Fuel guage and sending unit; maybe put in a resistor ahead of the guage power circuit?
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Old 06-12-2020, 08:11 AM   #35
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Dave55Sedan, you raise a lot of important issues. These are the things that are contributing to the to-do list. Let me try to work my way thru your list.
Brake drums: I bought 4 new from mid-fifty, along with new slave and master cylinders.
Frame crack: I am wondering why the frame is bent that way. There is no current evidence of something contacting that area. I’ll have to decide what to do about straightening after I have it exposed, the battery box off, those rivets removed. At the moment I am reluctant to put enough heat in there to pound it straight for fear of warping that frame section. But, heating before I weld the crack may be forgiving of distortion. It LOOKS like that bend is benign in that there is plenty of gap between the frame and cab.
The motor: yes, those are plug anti-foulers. If the motor needs a rebuild, I’ll do it. The oil pressure looks okay. I’ll have to monitor oil consumption for a bit. That said, it runs strong and I am sure it needs a valve adjustment. It drips copious amounts of oil and is covered in muck below. I think the rear main seal is shot and maybe the pan gasket. When the cab is off I plan to clean it thoroughly. I’ll pull the transmission and inspect/replace the rear seal. What is the general experience with these seals? Can it be removed/replaced with the crankshaft in-situ? Ideally, I would delay the motor rebuild while I complete another car project that has been pushed aside by this one. So popping in a new main seal, pan gasket, clutch and engine mounts while the cab is off is my preferred scheme at the moment. The fuel pump is an old aftermarket electric unit. I put the fuel pressure gauge on as I don’t trust the pump and I wanted to be sure it is a 4-5 psi unit. What do you mean by “ no need for a regulator either”? What have you spotted that I didn’t recognize?
Windshield wipers: I have no idea. I think they are electric. I don’t know if they work. I’ll have to investigate and get back to you. Sounds like your preference is for electric.
12V conversion: YES it is 12V. It has a Delco-style single-wire alternator and internal regulator. I’ll go hunting for the temperature sender. It has occurred to me that he MOTOR has always been 12V so the sensor would be a bit newer.
’55 cluster: as you can see, I have plenty to do. Putting the cluster back in working order can wait.
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Old 07-03-2020, 06:56 PM   #36
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Default The Frame is Revealed

Got the body work off of the frame.
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File Type: jpg FrontClip1.jpg (48.2 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg FrontClip2.jpg (48.4 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg CabLift5.jpg (84.4 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg CabLift3.jpg (76.1 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg CabLift4.jpg (98.5 KB, 35 views)
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Old 07-04-2020, 02:11 PM   #37
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Default Re: '55 F100 new project, new member

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe plumber View Post
There is nothing wrong with Petronix as long as you use the correct coil with it.Ive had one for 15 years with no problems
I also am using the Petronix in two engine applications. Have had them both for 5 plus years with no problems. Knock on wood!!
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Old 08-10-2020, 09:41 AM   #38
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Default Motor is out

I need to catch you guys up on a bunch of activity.
In preparation for the frame repair, the motor is out. here are some photos
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File Type: jpg motorOut1.jpg (88.7 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg motorOut2.jpg (73.6 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg motorOut3.jpg (78.6 KB, 23 views)
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Old 08-10-2020, 09:46 AM   #39
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Default details of the crack

Here are some shots of the main frame crack. I also found that the cross rail at the rear of the cab had a cracked section.
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File Type: jpg cracktopbefore1.jpg (29.7 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg crackinsidebefore1.jpg (49.5 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg CrossRailcrack.jpg (59.8 KB, 23 views)
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Old 08-10-2020, 09:55 AM   #40
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Default Straighten that which is bent

I needed to determine which part of the frame was bent to generate the offset seen in the previous post. Using a sight string and carefully measuring the distance from the string to the OUTSIDE rail edge I found that the bending was on the short section forward of the crack and aft of the transmission cross rail.

I drilled a hole at the tip of the crack to prevent it growing as I began to manipulate it.

Judicious heating and beating brought the rail back into position.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sightstring.jpg (56.3 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg crackaftertop2.jpg (49.0 KB, 20 views)
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