Airtex electric 6v pump

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Can anyone tell me which model to use please? I want it just for priming. I had it in my favourites but my computer crashed and I lost the data.

By way of update my coupe is nearing completion. just installed all the glass, the interior is in ( I still have to mount the front seat). Need to put the dome lights in and the window winder/door opener handles on the doors and install the front bumper. not long now and I can think about the "big warrant of fitness check" it has to go through before they let her back out on the road. Registration has been dead since 1974.


Thanks
GB

[4dFord/SC]

Originally Posted by Graeme / New Zealand

Can anyone tell me which model to use please? I want it just for priming. I had it in my favourites but my computer crashed and I lost the data.

Believe it's E8011 (6v, 5–8 psi).

[31chevy]

4dFord is correct, I have one on my 34 pickup & use it as a backup.
Gary.

[flatheadfan]

GB-

This what I am using on my '35 as a back-up. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...=airtex%20eo11

Tom

[koates]

Hi, I think the better pump to use is the low pressure Artex E8902 2.5 to 4 PSI WHICH WILL WORK BETTER WITH FLATHEAD CARBS. This is a 6 volt pump which will alow the mechanical pump to pull fuel through it OK. It can be used in both pos or neg ground vehicles. The E 8011 with its higher pressure of 5 to 8 PSI has been know to cause flooding on some carbs. Regards, Kevin.

[Planojc]

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I have the E8902 on three of my cars, As stated above it has lower pressure than the E8011 and can be used without a regulator if needed. For the best price, check Amazon.com

[47Merc]

Hi GB

I've got a 12V version of one of these on one of my vintage cars.

Low pressure, electronic, quiet and it works good.

Made in NZ

http://www.fuelflow.co.nz/FF_cms_03/...category_id=29

[Ken Bull]

I had a Airtex E8902 on my 40 Pick Up fead through the original pump with push rod removed. Worked great. Now in stalling an E8902 on my 36 as a primer & a Vapor lock assistant. Hope it helps-vapor lock is a big PIA/

[my4dv8]

Hi , check out Ajays , I think they have a 6v pump made local also.

[russcc]

Another great pump is the Factet, either 12 or 6V, maintains any pressure you select, no regulator needed, made in NY, USA by Purolater. The tech guys will put you onto to the right pump model for your application.

[trevo]

Graeme, I have here a 6v Fuel Flo NZ made pump that I used for priming its almost new I have since converted to Electronic Ignition so am now 12v and fitted a Fuel Flo pump to match works a treat. You can have my 6v pump at no cost to you they are around the $118 to buy new if you want it pm me with details I can send it down.

[Joe Immler]

Yes, the correct Airtex fuel pump is the E8902. It is a full flow through pump and can be switched on as needed for priming and vapor lock. Easy to install. Have one on my '41 and it works as advertised (as needed).

[Bluebell]

Pretty generous offer Trevo. Congratulations on your offer.
Now, anyone with a merc crank feel the same way?

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Thanks all for the replies folks. Yes it was the E8902 I had saved before the data was lost by crash computer.

GB

[52merc]

gmb you still got the plates off it or one plate ownership papers if you have these theres no problem its the proof its be registered in nz b4 you dont have to get it complied like imports thats a great offer from trevo us trevs like to help lol

[fottyjs]

e8902 is on sale at Am.....on with free shipping

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by koates

Hi, I think the better pump to use is the low pressure Artex E8902 2.5 to 4 PSI WHICH WILL WORK BETTER WITH FLATHEAD CARBS. This is a 6 volt pump which will alow the mechanical pump to pull fuel through it OK. It can be used in both pos or neg ground vehicles. The E 8011 with its higher pressure of 5 to 8 PSI has been know to cause flooding on some carbs. Regards, Kevin.

The Airtex E 8902 pump label does it state the lower pressure or does it state 5 to 8 psi on it? The ones I have seen state the higher pressure and the Airtex tech kids seem clueless,one told me they were using up old labels? I think what they are selling is a 12 volt pump that will work at 6 volt but pressure is half so I don't know what the big secret is. I could get mine to work 6 volt negative ground but would not work positive ground,I was able to return it. I may try again with the Amazon deal mayby I will get one that will work. I have been in a position before where the electric backup could have gotten my coupe off a major highway and home when mechanical rebuilt pump failed.

[4dFord/SC]

IMHO, if the pump is just to be used for priming, the higher psi should not be an issue.

[JM 35 Sedan]

This vapor lock situation will only get worse if the Ethanol % in our pump gas goes higher. I am going to get an E8902 Airtex pump for my 35 fordor and give it a try. I had a pretty dangerous shutdown caused by VL going over the Rocky Mts. in June. The EFV-8 Club will deduct points on the show field for an electric FP but that doesn't bother me.

[bobH]

Originally Posted by 4dFord/SC

IMHO, if the pump is just to be used for priming, the higher psi should not be an issue.

I'm thinking that if the electric pump is used for priming, and to overcome vapor lock, the higher pressure version would be beneficial. Seems to me, if you are trying to pressurize vapor, the lower pressure pump wouldn't be nearly as good as the higher pressure pump. This seems to contradict some of what's being said here. Comments? JMO

[Bluebell]

Bob, I don't believe it is necessary. If you are suffering from vapour lock, the needle valve is going to be open ( no resistance to flow and your engine has already died due to petrol starvation. All your electric pump has to do is push the clear petrol through your mechanical pump (which has been like a prop boat at the bottom of the Huka falls) it can't get any traction because the water is so full of air. (your electric pump is working on cold petrol)
You are better off with a pump that delivers the correct pressure, because next thing you won't be able to start the car because it's flooded, and you won't be sure which one it is (starved or flooded)
Don't go there mate.

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Originally Posted by 52merc

gmb you still got the plates off it or one plate ownership papers if you have these theres no problem its the proof its be registered in nz b4 you dont have to get it complied like imports thats a great offer from trevo us trevs like to help lol

Trev I do have one plate and the papers. Just need to supply the details of the parson i got it off and do a declaration and get the Police to say it is not stolen (which shouldn't be too hard) and then it has to go through a big WOF check.

GB

[37 Coupe]

The Airtex 8902 deal on Amazon is a good price with only 4 left at this point but only one review and it is bad,as most reviews are. Anybody else expierience the "early failure" that user has? Interesting what he states as the reasoning,an unprotected chip. But sounds like he got to talk to "tech kids" like I did,I think they are all interns.

[FlatheadTed]

I have two cars in the work shop that came in from the states both cars have these pumps, Art ex ? and pressure valve ,I removed this of the LA car .The only way I could get the car to run was tandem another electric pump on the motor end .as far as I can tell it lasted 4 years, there was another one in a box with the car that looked like it had failed and been removed .I had a flex and copper fuel line made up and replaced it and the pump with a mechanical one. As far as Fuel vapour lock goes I am a bit of a sceptic ,(but I have been wrong before ). I put it down to bad mechanical pumps ,fuel line sucking air ,Electrical ? etc, Ford tested there cars in the desert. The owner of this car lived in the CA for 30 years and regularly couriered cars through Interstate 40 Mojave desert sometimes up to 7 of the one make often they experienced vapour lock ? at 6 to 7000 ft on one or more of the cars ,they changed the pumps and they were on the road again ,(that tells me something ?),The pump pictured here has the tickler primer .I set up another non tickler pump for a 36 cabriolet and the owner tells me he can leave it for a month and it starts with only a couple of turns with out priming ,These have high quality diaphragms and neoprene valves .I have used this type of pump for 22years on my 34 with no problems .These electric pumps obviously need a pressure valve ,also they will not suck only push. The rubber diaphragm seems give problems is it the fuel that's used now ,or made in China .The Stromberg requires 2,1/2 PSI .If you want to run a electric pump maybe you should get the KIWI pump ,.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

The Airtex 8902 deal on Amazon is a good price with only 4 left at this point but only one review and it is bad,as most reviews are. Anybody else expierience the "early failure" that user has? Interesting what he states as the reasoning,an unprotected chip. But sounds like he got to talk to "tech kids" like I did,I think they are all interns.

Coupe, they did have 5 until I ordered mine last night . It is on the way and scheduled to arrive late this week or early next week. I won't have time to install it right away because of my schedule, but want to carry it with me on two trips as backup to the backup mechanical pump. Anyone who thinks that vapor lock caused by the ethanol that's in our pumped gas today, here in the USA, is not a real problem, should think again. It took heat, high altitude and the ethanol factor to bring it out on my car and all the other cars that took part in the EFV-8 Club cross country tour this past June. I hear others saying that they build their cars spot on and they don't have issues with VL, but then some of those guys rarely take their cars out of the garage or off their trailers.

[FlatheadTed]

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.Quote Anyone who thinks that vapor lock caused by the ethanol that's in our pumped gas today, here in the USA, is not a real problem, should think again.

John, I am thinking! , the anomaly of vapour lock has been going on for years with these cars so its not a resent phenomenon ,No one for sure can say since theres been no proper scientific testing done .If every one of the EFV-8 Club cross country tour cars that stopped had the same fuel then maybe , my friends testimonial who had brake downs in the desert must count for something ,I did a pump for a guy the other day that he fitted him self I went to great lengths to explain how to check the pump lift ,when he came back I asked what it was he said I duno . So long as were blaming the fuel were not dealing with the real culprit .Maybe pump parts made in China ?? Also Its been said here before GM I think ,that ninety per cent of fuel problems are electrical .

[FlatheadTed]

It would be interesting to find out how much vL the Chev boys get ?or the Models As for that matter and there carb is right near the exhaust ,I seldom hear of it then a gain they don't have a flex line or push rod ..How much pressure comes from a gravity feed tank as apposed to a v8 pump .

[JM 35 Sedan]

Ted, what George was saying about VL being 90% electrical was before most all of our gas was 10% ethanol. Now he acknowledges the problem of VL and has been experimenting with different approaches to keep the carburetor, fuel pump, gas lines, etc., cool enough to prevent VL. There were several threads posted here on this. I could remedy the VL on my car in less than 5 minutes by placing a towel soaked in ice water on the fuel pump, carburetor and gas lines. It would start right up and not happen again unless I had to stop for some reason. The fuel pump was a rebuilt by me '47-'48 glass bowl type with components that are resistant to alcohol. I could see the bubbles coming up from the bottom of the glass bowl caused by the ethanol boiling. This was creating a pressure buildup at the top of the bowl and into the gas line coming from the tank and going to the carburetor. I did borrow a rebuilt small steel top fuel pump from one of the other tour members and this seemed to work better than the glass bowl pump as far as having less VL problems, but I had to return that pump to him after the Tahoe meet and put the glass bowl pump back on for the return trip back east. The last VL problems I had were crossing the Rocky's and on a couple of the highest mountains in Yellowstone Nat. Park. After that it was smooth sailing all the way back to the East Coast. One of the best trips of my life for sure, even with the VL hassles .

[FlatheadTed]

John Thanks for the reply it sounds like you had a great time . I would like to do that my self some time ,You have given me food for thought that I would like to take up with you some time ,On Airtex pumps ,I have attached more shots of the two pumps and one on the other car that's obviously used for priming .I asked the agent about these pumps here ,they said that do not self prime so any car like a pre 36 may have problems because the fuel line come out the top of the tank ,like in one of the shots here ,They only will work if the tank is full

[JM 35 Sedan]

Ted, another thing I failed to mention is the glass bowl on the later fuel pumps sits right down next to the intake manifold and the intake deck of the block sucking up lots of heat coming from the engine. The engine temps were ~ 180-185°F most of the time. Now going up some of the highest mountain the temps were reading high, maybe 210 - 215°F or slightly higher at times. If I could have kept these temps down or shielded these temps from the fuel delivery components, the VL may not have been as much of a problem. Last week I installed some new can type thermostats that allow better coolant flow. Looks like average running temps are down maybe about 5° F. I may dig up a six blade generator mount fan to see if I can get temps down a little more.
Now from what you are saying about Airtex fuel pumps not work well on cars made before '36, that does not sound too good to me. I will probably give it a try anyway since I have one paid for and on the way.

[FlatheadTed]

I don't want to take over Graeme's thread .but john I cannot understand why the Radiator is not boiling but the fuel is ,The tempt under the hood should be hot enough to, if it boils the water then I would say then it will maybe boil the Fuel,???

[JM 35 Sedan]

Ted, I am running a low pressurized (3-4 psi) cooling system. The engine only sees the 210-215°F temps for a short duration as I would near the top of some pretty high elevations. Once I leveled off or started descending, the coolant temps came down quickly. The Ethanol (grain alcohol) in our fuel can boil at ~ 173°F at sea level and the boiling point becomes lower as atmospheric pressure decreases. I believe therein lies the problem.
Graeme, sorry about hijacking the original subject of your post.