"29 Model A Engine stops like key was turned off

[Tommoore]

I recently upgraded the distributor with the modern upper and lower plates including points and condenser. The car would run for about 2 miles and then the engine would stop like the key had been turned off. Thinking the condenser was not holding a charge I replaced it. Now it would go about 5 miles before the same thing happened. In both cases I would wait about 5 minutes and the car would start up and go again.
Suggestions appreciated... Thanks, Tom

[1931 flamingo]

How's the fuel flow?? Gas cap vented??
Paul in CT

[mleder]

I would tend to look for an electrical ground in the distributor. Perhaps after moving for a few miles you have a vibration that is creating something to cause this or the heat off the engine is causing something inside to expend slightly and ground out or cause a loose connection.

[ford1]

fuel and spark are what makes an engine run, loose either one and engine dies, have an induction timing lite close, next time it dies hook up the timing lite as soon as the engine dies, try to start engine, if the timing lite flashes its not the ignition, have a wrench with you that fits the plug on the bottom of carb, when engine dies remove plug to see if you have a fuel flow to carb, a restricted fuel flow can act like an ignition problem, fuel slowly flows to carb letting it run for a short time and then dies, as the car sits the fuel slowly fill the carb and it lets the engine run again , check the spark first, its the easist to check, maybe the coil or condensor is getting hot and shorting out till they cool

[Tom Endy]

You may be losing the electrical contact on the lower modern plate. Try bending the contacts so there is more pressure on them. After about 1000 miles check them again and you will probably find burn marks from the constant arcing at the point where you start the car with the spark handle up and at the point where you normally drive with the spark advanced.

Tom Endy

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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Try loosening the armoured cable just tad. Maybe 1/8 turn or so. Bill W.

[James Rogers]

Run it with the gas cap off.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If the car ran fine before the distributor plates change (upgrade is a loosely used term), then I'd look there for the problem. If other changes were made at the same time, then they might also be the problem, so it'll take more diagnostics to locate the problem.

I like to do the easiest checks first, like pull the coil wire and check for a nice blue 1/4" spark by holding the coil wire next to a head nut, while cranking with the key on.

[Duffy1]

I did the same modification . First ,the wire from the bottom plate was touching the housing causing a short . After I fixed that the cheap condenser went out . I have since replaced the cheap condenser that came with the dist.with a more robust one from NAPA . The one from NAPA has a longer wire which can rub against the rotor or housing when you move the spark advance. Not good . I am in the process of rebuilding my old dist .and will most likely use it as my primary dist .with the modern one as a back up . Live and learn.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree and have found most distributors with problems are the ones that vary from the original design.

[Karl]

Given the advent of the problem with the change of parts they would be the most likley cause. However I had exactly that problem with the coupe when I first got it and it turned out to be a faulty ignition switch which would jiggle off after a few miles! Took me a while to track it down !

[Jason in TX]

It could be the ground wire, but that is odd if it just stops without moving anything.

I have had the

1) faulty ignition switch that giggled off. wiggle key and it started again

2) small piece of rust in needle of carb. fuel slowly trickled into bowl filling it. When you drove it, it used the fuel in bowl faster than it could fill, so car would die (run out of gas in bowl) While I was scratching my head, gas would trickle into bowl again, and it would start after a minute or two, doing the same thing a few minutes later.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

A chunk of old gas gauge cork inside the gas tank will do the same thing, after it sets it will move off the hole a little. Have had more then one do that.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by fordgarage

Therein lies the problem, no kidding.
Rebuild it with the correct stock parts and it will be fine.

Amen.

[visionary]

Actualy it does sound like a bad condenser, because as it cools down the car will restart.
Are you running a 6 or 12 volty system? the reason i ask is if your running a 12 volt system you may need a ballast resistor to drop the voltage but i'm not certain.
just a thought.

Good luck
Scott

[28Annie]

Just recently had the same symptoms after "upgrading" my upper distributor plate. Would run good for a few miles & then die out just as you described. Gas flow was good but spark was not strong & blue. Testing with the volt meter was producing inconsistent results. After a few head-scratching hours & the help of a knowledgeable friend we checked the armored ignition cable & the wire was broken inside the housing where it screws into the distributor. The wire strands were just close enough to make a weak contact so I still had continuity. When I installed the rebuilt distributor the wire took just one twist too many & broke. I've since been educated that if I ever remove the distributor again, remove & re-install the armored ignition wire by rotating the actual distributor prior to setting the distributor shaft in place.