Shocks

[Dusty]

Now that I have the Tachometer problem fixed its time to move on to the next project. Has anyone here used Snyders tube shock kit? Is it hard to install and how is the ride? I presently have no shocks at all...thanks

dusty

[Ray64]

Dusty you can get a great set of rebuilt shocks for about the prices you pay for the tube ones and they look great and ride good Call John Holland up near Akron Ohio and talk to him. Phone call isnt a lot.1 330 483 3896

[KGBnut]

I haven't used Snyder's, but I do have modern tubular shocks in mine. I have Ken Davis's kit and am very happy with it. http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html Keep in mind, you will get a notably stiffer ride with tubular shocks.

Like you, I ran for a while with no shocks...what a nightmare. I would have liked to put in original style shocks, but would have needed to buy, not just the shocks, but all the linkages.

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by KGBnut

I haven't used Snyder's, but I do have modern tubular shocks in mine. I have Ken Davis's kit and am very happy with it. http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html Keep in mind, you will get a notably stiffer ride with tubular shocks.

Like you, I ran for a while with no shocks...what a nightmare. I would have liked to put in original style shocks, but would have needed to buy, not just the shocks, but all the linkages.

Yep that's the problem, $55.00 to rebuild your cores and you hope all the cores you send are good and you know that's not likely. The average cost I have seen is about $25.00 to $35.00 per core. Now you buy the shock arms and all the stuff to link it together. Best case is you might have about $400.00+ and that's if you don't have to chase any more cores.

$325.00 for the Snyder's shocks and they are hydraulic. Would the hydraulic be better than the gas? also how hard where they to install? Also do you know if Kens shocks are gas or hydraulic, man the price is right.

thanks
dusyt

[CarlG]

Ken Davis tube shocks are what I use. I think they are great, and won't break the bank. See link in post #3

[Jordan]

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I also use Ken Davis shocks. They made my ride a lot better, and I had original style shocks on before. A lot of people here in texas use them.

[Terry, NJ]

I had the problem too. I'm working with 46/48 backing plates so I fitted a piece 2"X2"X 1/4" angle iron as a lower shock bracket. You will have to grind a radius with a full size 7" angle grinder about 3/4" into the piece. This radius accomodates the curve of the axle housing which allows for more "meat" around the bolts and allows you to tip the bracket 3 deg to forward so the top doesn't chafe the body of the shock. Locate and drill the 2 7/16 mounting holes(The two rear axle bolts) and a 5/8 bolt hole to mount the shock on the opposite flange. That is the main part to be fabricated. Go to your favorite bolt supplier and get 4 1 1/2 X 7/16 grade 8 bolts and 2 3"X 5/8 and 2 3 1/2 x 5/8 bolts, 6 5/8 nuts. ( I like tractor supply) When all that is done you can go to Auto Zone and get a pair of Monroe Gas-matic # 59017 shocks (I could not find hydraulics) You will need to drill a 5/8 hole in the back of the rear crossmember, at the top corner, Use the 5/8 X 3 1/2 with a nut on each side of the frame. I tack welded a nut on the bracket for the bottom bolt (3" X 5/8) Bolt the shocks on and away you go. I should also say that this system was in use on my coupe. I just copied it for my Town Sedan, Total cost for two rear shocks, About $50.
Terry

[Barney]

Hi Guys,
I have a question. Does anyone know the shocks of this company?
http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp

Are they better than the rest of Repro scrap because you can not even adjust?
The price would be correct if the quality is right.

Greetings Barney

[Kevin in NJ]

How are your springs?

With no shocks and good springs then the car should feel like it will not hold the road much above 30 MPH. If the springs are dead then it will not bounce much and hold the road better.

The front springs tend to be more of a problem than the rear.

With the front you can kind of gauge the wear by the axle's position in relation to the front splash apron. From the factory photos you will find the front axle sits such that you will see about 1/2 the axle from the front with 1/2 hidden by the splash apron.

More often you will find the axle very well hidden behind the front apron.

What I have found is people with no shocks and the front axle settled way up behind the front apron do not seem to have issues with the car wanting to bounce off the road above 30 MPH. On the other hand, if the front axle is showing below the apron then the car is a nightmare to drive above 30 MPH. The bouncing off the road is personal experience with the cars in my family. The other cars are from all the local cars that I ask the people questions at the car shows, there are lots of cars with settled front springs to ask this question.

When you look at the edges of your springs do you see orange rust dust? Orange rust is always a good clue of a loose part or lack of lubrication. If you see orange rust dust around the spring perch mount then you know you have a loose spring perch. For the spring that means the leaves are dry and will not work very good.

[ford31]

I have the Ken Davis on my pickup very happy with them,would not change,mine are several years old,I undrstand his newer version may have softer shocks ones on my pickup are or were red

[Terry, NJ]

Originally Posted by ford31

I have the Ken Davis on my pickup very happy with them,would not change,mine are several years old,I undrstand his newer version may have softer shocks ones on my pickup are or were red

I would scratch those KD shocks and see what color they were originally! My Monroes were yellow and I painted them black, maybe you can find a number on them some where. Probably Monroe or Gabriel.
Terry

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by ford31

I have the Ken Davis on my pickup very happy with them,would not change,mine are several years old,I undrstand his newer version may have softer shocks ones on my pickup are or were red

The ones he sells now are blue. But I painted mine black.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jordan

The ones he sells now are blue. But I painted mine black.

Same here.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

The rear shocks in the Snyder kit work well on my roadster and they are a good installation. The fronts I don't use because of a hard ride. I replaced them with rebuilt originals and the total ride is much better.

[Barney]

Hi there,
I would like to ask again: Does anyone know this company?
http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp

The company is located in Oregon. Someone's coming from there?

Member "shuttlebuggy" and I would like to know more about this company. Maybe someone has already experienced.
Thanks and best regards, Barney

[Deluxe Delivery Don]

2 years ago I had them rebuild my set of originals and have been extremely pleased with the results. I would recommend them.

[Dusty]

I talk to Ken tonight and he seems to be a very knowledgeable guy, I order a set of his shocks. I just don't think I can go wrong with the price, can't wait to get them on and give the ole girl a try before the snows flies.

thanks to all that helped

dusty

[ford31]

I think they were red,will need to do scratch to be positive,probably his first generation,but most that ride or drive truck thinks its great little stiff for wife but she had knee replacement Monday maybe she can ride in it again but still is a model a

[Blessyouboys]

Originally Posted by Barney

Hi there,
I would like to ask again: Does anyone know this company?
http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp

I know of them. Their reproduction shocks are not adjustable and not rebuildable.

IMHO, you would be better off buying properly rebuilt originals.

[KGBnut]

One recommendation I forgot to mention earlier.

When putting Ken's shocks in the rear, I found that the original nuts that secure the bolts through the backing plates on my '30 Coupe have a built-in spacer to fit into a tapered recess. The nuts that came with Ken's kit didn't, and the new bolts are a different thread, so you can't reuse the old nuts (If I remember correctly - originals: fine-thread, new ones: coarse-thread). I made some small spacers to compensate. I would strongly recommend that you take the time to get longer bolts the same thread as the originals, drill a cotter pin hole through them, and reused the original nuts.

That being said, I'm very happy with Ken's shock kit and would definitely do it again.

Ken (no relation...)

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by KGBnut

One recommendation I forgot to mention earlier.

When putting Ken's shocks in the rear, I found that the original nuts that secure the bolts through the backing plates on my '30 Coupe have a built-in spacer to fit into a tapered recess. The nuts that came with Ken's kit didn't, and the new bolts are a different thread, so you can't reuse the old nuts (If I remember correctly - originals: fine-thread, new ones: coarse-thread). I made some small spacers to compensate. I would strongly recommend that you take the time to get longer bolts the same thread as the originals, drill a cotter pin hole through them, and reused the original nuts.

That being said, I'm very happy with Ken's shock kit and would definitely do it again.

Ken (no relation...)

The same bolts that hold the radius rods and the forward half of the backing plate work there like a charm. I just bought 4 of them from Snyders and used them instead of the bolts that came with the kit.

[Bill Goddard]

Originally Posted by Blessyouboys

I know of them. Their reproduction shocks are not adjustable and not rebuildable.

IMHO, you would be better off buying properly rebuilt originals.

The shocks from M&S Hydraulics are adjustable and rebuildable. I have a set on my bench now. M&S sent me a set of "O" rings and oil supply to rebuild them myself. They also replaced a shock assy that was defective for free 6 yrs after the previous owner installed them. They were great to work with. Bill G

[fredski53]

With the Ken Davis shock kit, can it be installed with the body ON the frame? Looks like the rear mount bracket needs two holes drilled into the cross member.

[duke36]

We installed a Brattons kit (Black shocks) which is the same as the Snyders kit and found the fronts too stiff. We used VW shocks on the fronts and the kit rears were fine. Installation is OK except the rear drums need to be pulled, frame drilled and the bracket holes cleaned of powder coat. Not to sure about the later kits with the clamps on the (later) radius rods which could bend or deform. The shocks at an angle can assist with the ride according to our shop supplier.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by fredski53

With the Ken Davis shock kit, can it be installed with the body ON the frame? Looks like the rear mount bracket needs two holes drilled into the cross member.

No holes drilled anywhere for the rear shocks.

[Chris Haynes]

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I use Armstrong shocks. They come on MGB's. Easy to find on eBay. Bolt pattern is the same as Model A. re-position the arm to line up with the A shock link mount.

[KGBnut]

I installed the Ken Davis set on my 1930 Coupe. I did so with the body on the frame. The top brackets in the rear were a little tricky to reach, but very doable.

The only holes you need to drill are two 3/8" holes in the FRONT axle.

[Bill G]

3/8" doesn't seem like much but will drilling the holes in the front axle weaken the axle? I have been considering getting the KD shocks and have wondered about that.

[slammin]

After studying all the different shock kits, I decided to fabricate my own. Having your own machine shop comes in handy. I didn't want to do anything to the car that couldn't be reversed so I didn't want to drill the holes in the front axle. I made angle iron brackets and mounted them with U bolts. I still need to fab the upper mounts, using the holes from the original shocks. Then I'll tackle the rear end.

[Bikerider58]

Hard to say on rebuild cost, I did not check other than various posts. I wanted original, but after checking around went with modern gas tubes.
Ebay seller m.a.c.s.fabrication, no drilling. Used front backplate bolts for rear with shock mount, worked great.
KYB gas shocks seems to work great. Surprisingly smooth at speed.

[daveymc29]

Originally Posted by Barney

Hi there,
I would like to ask again: Does anyone know this company?
http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp

The company is located in Oregon. Someone's coming from there?

Member "shuttlebuggy" and I would like to know more about this company. Maybe someone has already experienced.
Thanks and best regards, Barney

When I click on your site I get Apple Hydraulics on Long Island New York.
If there is a rebuilder of merit in Oregon I'd be willing to give them a try. Please let us know what you find out.
[email protected]

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Barney

Hi there,
I would like to ask again: Does anyone know this company?
http://www.antiqueshockabsorbers.com/new.asp

The company is located in Oregon. Someone's coming from there?

Member "shuttlebuggy" and I would like to know more about this company. Maybe someone has already experienced.
Thanks and best regards, Barney

Originally Posted by daveymc29

When I click on your site I get Apple Hydraulics on Long Island New York.
If there is a rebuilder of merit in Oregon I'd be willing to give them a try. Please let us know what you find out.
[email protected]

Ya gotta love it when someone digs up an old thread. Barney posted that link ~5 years ago and Barney himself hasn't posted on Ford Barn in 4 years. It's no wonder why the link is bogus...