The Ford Barn

poolplayer1 · 04-18-2019, 10:07 AM

Just finished rebuilding my ford 302 engine and hope to get it running by the weekend. I need some suggestions on type of oil to use for break-in.
Should I use conventional 30w oil or a 10w40 oil.Also,should I add a Zddp additive to the oil for better break-in? before anything,I was thinking about priming the oil pump first with a primer tool and drill to get oil to the rockers.
For those of you that have rebuild your engines before,what is the best way to approach this break-in job.Thanks for all your help.

39deluxecp · 04-18-2019, 11:17 AM

the only time I use a ral break-in oil is witha flat tappet racing cam. otherwise use the oil you plan on using in the engine after break-in. use the zddp. prime the oil pump , you can also leave the spark plugs out and crank the engine with the starter until oil is pumped to rockers. I had my own engine rebuilding shop in the 80's, and perfect circle at that time said to break in the rings, firat accelerate to 70 or so, then let off throttle down to 30 MPH. do this 5 or 6 times and rings are good to go. neve had oil consumption problems breaking in engines that way. run the break in oil 500 miles and put in regular oil

5851a · 04-18-2019, 11:21 AM

If it's a new cam and lifters I would do what the cam manufactures suggest on the oil. I always do the prime the pump thing anymore and use Lubriplate assembly lube on bearings. When you do the priming thing you will know it when the filter and passages are full. Some like to rotate engine while priming but I haven't so far and been ok. I like to get it set up so it fires and runs instantly.

rotorwrench · 04-18-2019, 12:40 PM

This link is abut as good as any for flat tappet cams.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...-in-procedure/

If you have a roller cam then the procedure is less tricky but stuff still has to be properly bedded in.

Flathead Fever · 04-18-2019, 01:21 PM

If it has a new flat tappet camshaft, the lobes are soft . Breaking in the camshaft is done to work harden those lobes.. A little like forging a part makes it stronger. We use to run them at about 1500 rpm for 20-minutes with break-in lube on the lobes. That helps work harden the camshaft's lobes and seat the lifters to the lobes. If you do not break-in the cam the lobes can wear away and go "flat" and your valves will no longer happen. After the cam is broke in you want to drive it around varying the rpm, this changes the load on the rings, and helps them break-in. I remember there were different procedures for different types of rings but I don't remember what they were. Everybody use to say not to drive the vehicle over 50 mph for the first 500 miles. I'm not sure that really matters? Then you change the oil after 500 miles to get the break-in lube out of there and any junk floating in the oil that might have been from the machining and assembly process (there should not be any unless your a hack builder). Right now the best oil to use with flat tappet cams is oil designed for diesel trucks. They still have to put all the good anti-wear additives in that oil because of the extreme pressures caused by the high compression ratios. I suggest Delo 15W40 diesel oil if you have a flat tappet camshaft. Walmart is the cheapest.

You want the engine to start immediately and run it up to 1500, maybe even 2000 rpm. I'm not sure which it is, its been over 20-year's since my last engine build. You do not want not to be fussing around with the timing trying to get it to start or cranking it to fill up the carb.

Most guys spin the oil pump driveshaft to bring the oil pressure up. Also fill the oil filter up before spinning it on. I had one 289 that would not prime? I had primed the oil pump before assembling it to the engine? I pulled the oil filter off and took an oil squirt can and jammed it up in the block through the oil filter adapter and back filled the oil pump with more oil. After that it, it primed and started pumping, Stick the distributor back in and use a timing light while just cranking the engine with the key on. You don't want any fuel in the carb yet because you don't want it trying to start. The timing mark will light up even though your just cranking the engine. That will tell you if you have the distributor in correctly and the timing is close to where it needs to be before you start the engine. 10 degrees is a good starting spot. Later on you can go back and reset the timing because it will probably change with the higher running rpm. Now Pre-fill the float bowls with fuel if you have an electric fuel pump. If not, I use a little tiny funnel made for Radio controlled toy car gas tanks. I fill the bowls through the vent tubes. If you have a Holley you can pull the site plugs and fill the bowls to the bottom of the plugs. Move the carb linkage until you start to see the accelerator pump start squirting. Give it several squirts. It should start up in just a couple of rotations. Don't worry about adjusting the idle rpm or anything except turning the idle speed screw to run the rpm up to the manufacturers suggested rpm for breaking in the cam and let it run for 20-minutes. Watch the temperature and oil pressure and check for leaks. Afterwards set your timing and idle a/f mixture and go for a ride.

Always set points first if you are using them. Then the timing and last the air fuel mixture. It has to be dome it that order. That is because dwell (point gap) changes the timing but timing does not change the dwell. Timing effects the fuel mixture but the fuel mixture does not change the timing. That is why we adjust the carb last.

The very best way to do adjust the carb is with a little propane bottle. I should have mentioned this before. Before you try and start the engine lightly bottom out the A/F mixture screws and back them out 1 1/2 turns so that they are all set exactly the same. After the engine is broke in check your fuel float level , set that first before any carb adjustments. Run the propane bottle over the carb while its idling. You can use starting fluid or carb spray with just a light spray but the propane bottle is the hot ticket. If the idle goes down that means the engine is already too rich and it could not handle any more fuel. If the idle goes up with the propane the engine was too lean and it liked that extra fuel you were giving it. You make small adjustments, 1/8 turn at atime to all the A/F screws at the same time keeping them all turned exactly the same amount. When the idle does not change with the addiction of a "little" propane you are real close to having it set perfect.

Because an old fashioned carbureted engine cannot make air fuel adjustments for temperature and atmospheric pressure changes (they run different on a cloudy day or a different altitude) like modern cars you set the air fuel ratio a little to the rich side to compensate for that stuff. Maybe an extra 1/4 of a turn out on the air fuel mixture screws from where you had it set with the propane.

Later on you will want to dial that carb in with the correct jets, power valves and accelerator pump settings. It will make a big difference in how your engine runs and what kind of gas mileage you will get. Another lesson for another day.

Flathead Fever · 04-18-2019, 01:47 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

One other thing to watch for. Watch this minute long new engine startup video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LONT1oboJrs

poolplayer1 · 04-18-2019, 02:22 PM

Thanks to all of you guys for your great help and advice.I really appreciate all of your input. Hopefully I will get it running this weekend.Will post later to let you know how it all come out. Flathead Fever,I did watch the video and I hope I don't get that knocking noise when I first start the engine. I probably will get some lifter noise until it breaks in.

Flathead Fever · 04-18-2019, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

Thanks to all of you guys for your great help and advice.I really appreciate all of your input. Hopefully I will get it running this weekend.Will post later to let you know how it all come out. Flathead Fever,I did watch the video and I hope I don't get that knocking noise when I first start the engine. I probably will get some lifter noise until it breaks in.

Sometimes the lifters do make noise until they finally fill up with oil. I use to put them in a pan of oil over night with the little oil hole facing up and so the air could escape out of them. You would see real tiny bubbles moving really slow through the oil. By the next day the lifters would be full of oil and you didn't have any clicking noise when you started the engine.

I'm mostly hanging out over with the flahead guys on the Ford Barn these days but I grew up with Mustangs and 289s in the late 1970s. I've had thirteen different early Mustangs. I love those 289s and 302s. I did horrible terrible things to those engines in my youth and only blew one up in my first Mustang. Dropped a valve right through the piston at about 7000 rpm after the valves floated. Called my friends to help push it the two-blocks home. That was on Christmas eve 1977. Spent Christmas day tearing the engine down. The only parts salvageable in that engine was the intake and the valve covers. Spent all summer long riding a Honda Mini Trail 70 to work while I saved up to build a new engine.

fordor41 · 04-18-2019, 09:32 PM

When I rebuilt my 302 (1980/ flat tappet) I contacted Comp cams and they said to prime the engine, I used Brad Penn 10W30+ break-in oil, run up to 2000 RPM for 20 min, dump the oil/filter, refill oil/ new filter and run for 500 miles. Then dump that oil and go with whatever oil I wanted. I went with Mobil 1 10W-30. No problems

JeffB2 · 04-19-2019, 12:11 PM

You can rent the oil primer tool from your local Autozone for free.

poolplayer1 · 04-23-2019, 02:59 PM

Ok guys,got my engine all primed up,ready to go but I do have another question regarding crank and water pump pulleys.Right now,I only have a 1 groove crank pulley and a 2 groove water pump pulley. I am going to install a vintage air ac system in this car.Am I going to need a 3 groove crank pulley now to be able to accommodate the ac belt.Or,can I get away with just getting a 2 groove (I think its called a 2 sheave) crank pulley. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

fordor41 · 04-23-2019, 10:13 PM

Check for added space in front of engine with a 3 groove. 3 groove starts to get pretty long.

poolplayer1 · 04-24-2019, 09:59 PM

Thanks fordor41 for your suggestion.I will take a look at how much space I have so that I won't have any problems.

KULTULZ · 04-25-2019, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

I am going to install a vintage air ac system in this car.Am I going to need a 3 groove crank pulley now to be able to accommodate the ac belt.Or,can I get away with just getting a 2 groove (I think its called a 2 sheave) crank pulley.

What does the kit manufacturer recommend? You may have to be careful of pulley size (speed) and sheath size (belt).

JeffB2 · 04-30-2019, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

Ok guys,got my engine all primed up,ready to go but I do have another question regarding crank and water pump pulleys.Right now,I only have a 1 groove crank pulley and a 2 groove water pump pulley. I am going to install a vintage air ac system in this car.Am I going to need a 3 groove crank pulley now to be able to accommodate the ac belt.Or,can I get away with just getting a 2 groove (I think its called a 2 sheave) crank pulley. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Been down that road you will need a 3 groove for the A/C on the 302.

04-18-2019, 10:07 AM	#1
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 399	Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question Just finished rebuilding my ford 302 engine and hope to get it running by the weekend. I need some suggestions on type of oil to use for break-in. Should I use conventional 30w oil or a 10w40 oil.Also,should I add a Zddp additive to the oil for better break-in? before anything,I was thinking about priming the oil pump first with a primer tool and drill to get oil to the rockers. For those of you that have rebuild your engines before,what is the best way to approach this break-in job.Thanks for all your help.

04-18-2019, 11:17 AM	#2
39deluxecp Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: s/w Iowa Posts: 111	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question the only time I use a ral break-in oil is witha flat tappet racing cam. otherwise use the oil you plan on using in the engine after break-in. use the zddp. prime the oil pump , you can also leave the spark plugs out and crank the engine with the starter until oil is pumped to rockers. I had my own engine rebuilding shop in the 80's, and perfect circle at that time said to break in the rings, firat accelerate to 70 or so, then let off throttle down to 30 MPH. do this 5 or 6 times and rings are good to go. neve had oil consumption problems breaking in engines that way. run the break in oil 500 miles and put in regular oil

04-18-2019, 11:21 AM	#3
5851a Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: NE Iowa Posts: 1,664	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question If it's a new cam and lifters I would do what the cam manufactures suggest on the oil. I always do the prime the pump thing anymore and use Lubriplate assembly lube on bearings. When you do the priming thing you will know it when the filter and passages are full. Some like to rotate engine while priming but I haven't so far and been ok. I like to get it set up so it fires and runs instantly.

04-18-2019, 12:40 PM	#4
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,432	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question This link is abut as good as any for flat tappet cams. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...-in-procedure/ If you have a roller cam then the procedure is less tricky but stuff still has to be properly bedded in.

04-18-2019, 01:21 PM	#5
Flathead Fever Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Yucaipa, CA Posts: 1,095	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question If it has a new flat tappet camshaft, the lobes are soft . Breaking in the camshaft is done to work harden those lobes.. A little like forging a part makes it stronger. We use to run them at about 1500 rpm for 20-minutes with break-in lube on the lobes. That helps work harden the camshaft's lobes and seat the lifters to the lobes. If you do not break-in the cam the lobes can wear away and go "flat" and your valves will no longer happen. After the cam is broke in you want to drive it around varying the rpm, this changes the load on the rings, and helps them break-in. I remember there were different procedures for different types of rings but I don't remember what they were. Everybody use to say not to drive the vehicle over 50 mph for the first 500 miles. I'm not sure that really matters? Then you change the oil after 500 miles to get the break-in lube out of there and any junk floating in the oil that might have been from the machining and assembly process (there should not be any unless your a hack builder). Right now the best oil to use with flat tappet cams is oil designed for diesel trucks. They still have to put all the good anti-wear additives in that oil because of the extreme pressures caused by the high compression ratios. I suggest Delo 15W40 diesel oil if you have a flat tappet camshaft. Walmart is the cheapest. You want the engine to start immediately and run it up to 1500, maybe even 2000 rpm. I'm not sure which it is, its been over 20-year's since my last engine build. You do not want not to be fussing around with the timing trying to get it to start or cranking it to fill up the carb. Most guys spin the oil pump driveshaft to bring the oil pressure up. Also fill the oil filter up before spinning it on. I had one 289 that would not prime? I had primed the oil pump before assembling it to the engine? I pulled the oil filter off and took an oil squirt can and jammed it up in the block through the oil filter adapter and back filled the oil pump with more oil. After that it, it primed and started pumping, Stick the distributor back in and use a timing light while just cranking the engine with the key on. You don't want any fuel in the carb yet because you don't want it trying to start. The timing mark will light up even though your just cranking the engine. That will tell you if you have the distributor in correctly and the timing is close to where it needs to be before you start the engine. 10 degrees is a good starting spot. Later on you can go back and reset the timing because it will probably change with the higher running rpm. Now Pre-fill the float bowls with fuel if you have an electric fuel pump. If not, I use a little tiny funnel made for Radio controlled toy car gas tanks. I fill the bowls through the vent tubes. If you have a Holley you can pull the site plugs and fill the bowls to the bottom of the plugs. Move the carb linkage until you start to see the accelerator pump start squirting. Give it several squirts. It should start up in just a couple of rotations. Don't worry about adjusting the idle rpm or anything except turning the idle speed screw to run the rpm up to the manufacturers suggested rpm for breaking in the cam and let it run for 20-minutes. Watch the temperature and oil pressure and check for leaks. Afterwards set your timing and idle a/f mixture and go for a ride. Always set points first if you are using them. Then the timing and last the air fuel mixture. It has to be dome it that order. That is because dwell (point gap) changes the timing but timing does not change the dwell. Timing effects the fuel mixture but the fuel mixture does not change the timing. That is why we adjust the carb last. The very best way to do adjust the carb is with a little propane bottle. I should have mentioned this before. Before you try and start the engine lightly bottom out the A/F mixture screws and back them out 1 1/2 turns so that they are all set exactly the same. After the engine is broke in check your fuel float level , set that first before any carb adjustments. Run the propane bottle over the carb while its idling. You can use starting fluid or carb spray with just a light spray but the propane bottle is the hot ticket. If the idle goes down that means the engine is already too rich and it could not handle any more fuel. If the idle goes up with the propane the engine was too lean and it liked that extra fuel you were giving it. You make small adjustments, 1/8 turn at atime to all the A/F screws at the same time keeping them all turned exactly the same amount. When the idle does not change with the addiction of a "little" propane you are real close to having it set perfect. Because an old fashioned carbureted engine cannot make air fuel adjustments for temperature and atmospheric pressure changes (they run different on a cloudy day or a different altitude) like modern cars you set the air fuel ratio a little to the rich side to compensate for that stuff. Maybe an extra 1/4 of a turn out on the air fuel mixture screws from where you had it set with the propane. Later on you will want to dial that carb in with the correct jets, power valves and accelerator pump settings. It will make a big difference in how your engine runs and what kind of gas mileage you will get. Another lesson for another day. Last edited by Flathead Fever; 04-18-2019 at 01:42 PM.

04-18-2019, 01:47 PM	#6
Flathead Fever Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Yucaipa, CA Posts: 1,095	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) One other thing to watch for. Watch this minute long new engine startup video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LONT1oboJrs

04-18-2019, 02:22 PM	#7
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 399	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question Thanks to all of you guys for your great help and advice.I really appreciate all of your input. Hopefully I will get it running this weekend.Will post later to let you know how it all come out. Flathead Fever,I did watch the video and I hope I don't get that knocking noise when I first start the engine. I probably will get some lifter noise until it breaks in.

04-18-2019, 09:32 PM	#9
fordor41 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: elmira,ny Posts: 1,517	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question When I rebuilt my 302 (1980/ flat tappet) I contacted Comp cams and they said to prime the engine, I used Brad Penn 10W30+ break-in oil, run up to 2000 RPM for 20 min, dump the oil/filter, refill oil/ new filter and run for 500 miles. Then dump that oil and go with whatever oil I wanted. I went with Mobil 1 10W-30. No problems

04-19-2019, 12:11 PM	#10
JeffB2 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Phoenix,AZ Posts: 1,417	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question You can rent the oil primer tool from your local Autozone for free.

04-23-2019, 02:59 PM	#11
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 399	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question Ok guys,got my engine all primed up,ready to go but I do have another question regarding crank and water pump pulleys.Right now,I only have a 1 groove crank pulley and a 2 groove water pump pulley. I am going to install a vintage air ac system in this car.Am I going to need a 3 groove crank pulley now to be able to accommodate the ac belt.Or,can I get away with just getting a 2 groove (I think its called a 2 sheave) crank pulley. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

04-23-2019, 10:13 PM	#12
fordor41 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: elmira,ny Posts: 1,517	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question Check for added space in front of engine with a 3 groove. 3 groove starts to get pretty long.

04-24-2019, 09:59 PM	#13
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 399	Re: Rebuilt ford 302 engine break-in question Thanks fordor41 for your suggestion.I will take a look at how much space I have so that I won't have any problems.