Good techniques for restamping frame?

[34pickup]

Does anyone have and good ideas on how to keep the stamped numbers in a straight line when stamping the frame rails?
Don't bother to tell me not to do it.

[39topless]

1Corinthians 6:9-11

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 34pickup

Does anyone have and good ideas on how to keep the stamped numbers in a straight line when stamping the frame rails?
Don't bother to tell me not to do it.

Clamp a straight edge to the frame. A piece of angle iron works well in that it will give you a "back stop" of sorts top help steady your hand.

[34pickup]

Thanks Kube. I will practice that method a couple of times on scrap first.

[34pickup]

Originally Posted by 39topless

1Corinthians 6:9-11

For my purpose, this isn't wrong.

[Roger W Gerow]

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You must remember these numbers were stamped by hand and with no straight edge or angle iron. If you use this method they will look machine stamped and a trained eye will notice the difference. I've seen some that the individual number was stamped at an angle instead of vertical. Just saying.

[bobs1938ford]

I restamped the frame on my 38 and was surprised on how hard I had to hit the stamp, really had to hit it. Used a lead hammer.

bob

[rotorwrench]

I have to restamp data plates for aircraft parts after they have been modified or upgraded. Folks that did free hand stamping back in the day had to know the positioning of there stamps VERY well. If they did it a lot then they got good at it. I use masking tape as the bottom line since not all surfaces are flat. I mark where the centers of each number need to be, based on the width of the characters, directly on the tape. I have center marks on each of my stamps. You can get a feel for when the character just touches the tape when positioning. After I have them aligned I giver er a good pop with the hammer. If a person has more time, they can get more elaborate about their layout but I've found that I get better results if I don't over think about what I'm doing and just concentrate on keeping things aligned in all three axes.

Reproduction stamps are getting more expensive. A person has to take good care of them. They are easy to damage even if well heat treated.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I have to restamp data plates for aircraft parts after they have been modified or upgraded. Folks that did free hand stamping back in the day had to know the positioning of there stamps VERY well. If they did it a lot then they got good at it. I use masking tape as the bottom line since not all surfaces are flat. I mark where the centers of each number need to be, based on the width of the characters, directly on the tape. I have center marks on each of my stamps. You can get a feel for when the character just touches the tape when positioning. After I have them aligned I giver er a good pop with the hammer. If a person has more time, they can get more elaborate about their layout but I've found that I get better results if I don't over think about what I'm doing and just concentrate on keeping things aligned in all three axes.

Reproduction stamps are getting more expensive. A person has to take good care of them. They are easy to damage even if well heat treated.

Rotorwrench,
As usual you offer great advice. I did not elaborate as to the entire method I have used in the past but let's just say, I am certain you and most others would agree I over think it. Hey, I am a retired tool maker - that's what we do

[rotorwrench]

This world would still be in the dark ages if it weren't for folks that are obsessive and compulsive to some degree. I try not to be for the sake of sanity but it's always borderline for me.

[Bored&Stroked]

Nothing wrong with an extreme level of perfectionism . . . I suffer from the same plight. There are times to mitigate it - just not that many!

[34pickup]

Thanks for the tips. To those who frown upon doing frame stamping, I am not changing anything, that would be illegal; I am just adding an additional stamp.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

This world would still be in the dark ages if it weren't for folks that are obsessive and compulsive to some degree. I try not to be for the sake of sanity but it's always borderline for me.

"OCD" Who, me? HA! I consider myself one of the fortunate ones that although having OCD, I have managed to make it work for me for the most part.
Being a tool maker was the perfect career and restoring '39 & '40 Fords to the level I expect of myself has also been a great place to harness this plight of mine.
Rotorwrench, it is apparent by many of your Fordbarn responses that you suffer from this to some degree as well. Your previous comment in regard to "...the sake of sanity..." is so accurate.
I truly believe those that do not have OCD will never understand fully those of us that do. I also am guessing they are overall healthier.
Not crossing that border you reference is difficult most of the time

[51 MERC-CT]

Do the same as they did in the factory, a couple of shots of your favorite alcoholic beverage

[flatrod]

Where can I find the star that begins and ends the vin number?

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by 34pickup

Thanks for the tips. To those who frown upon doing frame stamping, I am not changing anything, that would be illegal; I am just adding an additional stamp.

Hi Everyone, Well it would be amusing if, twenty years from now, someone stumbles on this thread, and discovers the answer to their mystery of why this frame is the way it is.

As for the star, I found a reference in an old thread... http://www.mcmaster.com/#symbol-stamps/=g4yw66 Looks like it may be a "Symbol M1"

[40cpe]

I can understand 34pickup's desire to place the number in a different location. When I installed the MII crossmember in my '40 (back in the late '80s) the "hat" for the top spring pocket was directly across the original VIN. I stopped the weld before it got to the VIN and resumed on the other side so as not to destroy the original VIN. For my own satisfaction I stamped the VIN on the frame just ahead of the firewall. If it became necessary the welded piece could be removed to reveal the original VIN.

[34fordy]

I would think that a block of wood or steel tightly wedged between the top and bottom members of the frame, would create a more solid surface and not require nearly as much WHACK with the hammer. I believe it would leave a more consistent mark from the stamp.

[hotcoupe]

i have used a piece of paper and a pencil held at a low angle, to make a tracing of the old numbers for a pattern. then just position your pattern, tape it in place and use the images of the numbers to position the stamp. works for me.
tom

[rotorwrench]

These old frames get rusted out. I see no reason why a person can't do a re-stamp after a related repair. I don't condone fraud but there is room for non-fraudulent use of stamps in my book.