Tie Rod & Drag Link Ball Joints

[Bob Bidonde]

The function of the ball joints is to enable the front suspension to deflect without adversely affecting the steering.


How many revolutions do you tighten the end plug to compress the spring in a ball joint?

A popular "how to book" notes the spring should be compressed 25%, but this seems to be too much in my opinion. Here's why:
> The spring is 1" long;
> The plug has 16 threads per inch, so each revolution of the plug compresses the spring 0.063";
> 25% compression of the spring reduces its length by 0.25", and that's 4 revolutions of the plug;
> The plug will be too far into the tie rod / drag link for the cotter pin to engage it!

My practice has been to bring the plug into contact with the ball, then tighten the plug two revolutions (0.13") and tighten further to align the cotter pin.

Is there any literature such as a Ford service bulletin or Dyke's manual that indicates how much to tighten the end plug?

[Kurt in NJ]

I researched some, I was taught to tighten to coil bind when positioned to least worn area--- full lock usually-- then back off about 1/2 turn, --- though the use of wrong or "GYP" parts may require different adjustments--- modern tie rod ends are very close to coil bind when new though there is no adjustment

[Russ/40]

The above leave me even more confused. To me, I have the reverse problem. Seems to me I cannot get a cotter pin in without driving the plug all the way in. Doesn't seem to be possible to compress the spring only 25% and still cotter pin it. I dont feel the problem is repot parts, as inspection seems to see matching characteristics of all parts.

[Synchro909]

If you’re adjusting the ball joints with the steering in or near the straight ahead position and you can’t get enough tension, it is likely your balls are worn - wait, let me rephrase that! It is likely the steering balls on the car are worn.

[Jerry Kzoo]

Bob,
My interpretation is that 25% compression would need to be calculated by taking 25% of the length of the spring when fully compressed vs. the 1" length of spring uncompressed. This would end up being much less than .25".
With round reconditioned balls I have found that the plugs are close to flush with the ends of the tie rod and drag link and just able to get the cotter pin installed.


Jerry

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Synchro909

If you’re adjusting the ball joints with the steering in or near the straight ahead position and you can’t get enough tension, it is likely your balls are worn - wait, let me rephrase that! It is likely the steering balls on the car are worn.

OFTEN, during the day, I "re-adjust" my balls, when they feel uncomfortable.
Bill Ahhhhh!

[old31]

OH Geeeez. Thats more information than I want to picture in my minds eye. Yuck!

[katy]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The function of the ball joints is to enable the front suspension to deflect without adversely affecting the steering.


How many revolutions do you tighten the end plug to compress the spring in a ball joint?

A popular "how to book" notes the spring should be compressed 25%, but this seems to be too much in my opinion. Here's why:
> The spring is 1" long;
> The plug has 16 threads per inch, so each revolution of the plug compresses the spring 0.063";
> 25% compression of the spring reduces its length by 0.25", and that's 4 revolutions of the plug;
> The plug will be too far into the tie rod / drag link for the cotter pin to engage it!

My practice has been to bring the plug into contact with the ball, then tighten the plug two revolutions (0.13") and tighten further to align the cotter pin.

Is there any literature such as a Ford service bulletin or Dyke's manual that indicates how much to tighten the end plug?

Not sure if this applies to Model As or not, but my 1965 Ford Truck shop manual says: "Tighten the threaded plug in the end of the socket until the spring is fully compressed (ball seat bottoms on spring seat). Then back off the plug approximately 1 turn to the point where the slot in the plug lines up with the cotter pin holes in the drag link. Install a new cotter pin through the end of the drag link to lock the plug.