headlights

[MrTube]

So, every often moving the headlight switch causes super dim headlights with high current draw which blows the fuse mounted near the starter.

If you turn them off fast enough and keep trying you won't blow the fuse. I was able to fiddle with it enough to get it to just draw the normal amount of current and as long as I didn't mess with the switch, it didn't have any issues driving around.

Any ideas? Obviously something in the switch must be shorting to something, but not causing a dead short.

Curious if any others have had such a problem.

[Aerocraft]

I suggest that you carefully examine the switch at the bottom of the steering column. Gar Williams

[MrTube]

On another note, Can anyone tell me the light output and current draw differences between the various headlight bulbs Bratton's offers?

I'm looking at the standard, I think 30/50CP bulbs vs 25+25W Halogen and the 35+35W halogen.

I find it difficult if not impossible to compare 3 bulbs one of which states light output and the other two state power draw.

I'm hoping I can run a pair of the 35+35 halogens off of the generator, but I have no idea if the generator can even come close to keeping up with them at cruising rpm?

[Special Coupe Frank]

Any repro parts in the headlight system ? (From the switch all way out to the Headlamps themselves ?)

[MrTube]

Figured out what the problem was. I *think* the wrong switch base was installed. Nothing on it made sense in relation to the lights.

At any rate, I installed a new harness from Snyders. Now everything works except I have binding from the OFF position to either direction. Is this due to how the repro switch base is made? Or should I order a repro switch housing to go with it?

I was thinking of taking the base out and using a dremel to ramp\soften the sides of the OFF position.

By "switch base" I am referring to the bakelite \ plastic base which holds the contacts.

[Special Coupe Frank]

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Use original parts wherever possible, including the switch housing.

Don't see any issue with dressing the "bakelite" to ease the "off" detent; just se a light touch with the Dremel...

A dab of Vaseline on the sliding surfaces wouldn't hurt either.

[kenparker]

Just went thru that problem on a friends car last week. Same problem. Turned out to be the Bakelight Ring with the 8 or 9 brass indents were just fine. The three round Nibs that rotate when you turn on the lights were not round. The tip of them ( the part that acturally fits down into the Brass indent) was flat. You could not "feel" the clicks. It was one of those cheap repop parts.

Replaced the Switch Can (proper name????) with and original and now owner is happy as Pig in a Mudpuddle.

Moral of this story is check the round thingees inside the "can". Ken

[MrTube]

That sounds about right.

It jams off and then once you get it out of "off" you don't really feel anything going from low to high or back to low.

[Jim Brierley]

I also use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. When a fuse blows you are done, a circuit breaker will come back on in a few seconds. You can get one that fits right in place of a fuse.

[FL&WVMIKE]

MrTube ...........................
I'm glad that you found your problem. Next time, just don't assume that it is "obviously" in the switch. It could be anywhere in the circuit.
I had that same thing happen in my '34. Luckily, I started looking at the other end, and I found that the little prong, where the base of the bulb connects, had bent over and was touching the inside of the bulb housing. I was lucky. It was the first place, I looked.
MIKE

[MrTube]

Mike,

I didn't realize I didn't post the complete story. The other side of it was I found all 3 filaments were lighting on all 3 settings of the switch. This is what lead me to replacing the switch. Someone had taped up one of the wires and jammed it into the black separator at the base of one of the headlights, this was the intermittent short.

I have no idea whats with the switch plate I took out. Its a mess. I am happy to have ALL new cloth covered wiring in the vehicle though. Some of the old stuff was in pretty bad shape. The job took me around 2.5 hours.

[Randini509]

I'm having a similar problem, but i disconnected both headlights, and when i turn the switch on either way it blows the fuse. Horn works fine, never blows it. The circular plates in the bottom of the steering stem looked fine, i dunno whats goin on... but its annoying not having headlights..

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Randini509

I'm having a similar problem, but i disconnected both headlights, and when i turn the switch on either way it blows the fuse. Horn works fine, never blows it. The circular plates in the bottom of the steering stem looked fine, i dunno whats goin on... but its annoying not having headlights..

My guess would be the headlamp repro terminals are too large in diameter and can touch the conduit and short to ground.

[Randini509]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

My guess would be the headlamp repro terminals are too large in diameter and can touch the conduit and short to ground.

Even without the headlights plugged in though? i disconnect them and turn the switch and the fuse still blows

[Joe K]

Has it ever worked correctly or is this something new?

How many "fingers" do you have on your light switch? It should have 3 if it is a later model switch (from March 29 onwards)

All the lighting harnesses sold today have buttons set up around the three finger switch. Earlier switches have 4 fingers and will cause problems when used with the later harness.

Joe K

[Randini509]

I just started driving and working on the truck, my father passed away and i got the truck. Not sure if the issue is new or old. it has the three brass fingers where the headlight plugs in.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Randini509

I just started driving and working on the truck, my father passed away and i got the truck. Not sure if the issue is new or old. it has the three brass fingers where the headlight plugs in.

Those 3 brass contacts may be too large and touching the conduit, even if it's not plugged into the headlamp. The conduit is usually touching ground somewhere.

[Joe K]

Tom may be correct. The way to get past this is to pull back the wires from the conduits and get them out in the air. You may find other issues with the cloth insulation.

Also open your switch body on the bottom of the steering column and check out those switch fingers.

Gosh so many things this could be.

Joe K

[Randini509]

Now the frickn fuse blows when i hot the brakes! This thing is going to make me nutS!

[Joe K]

You may be getting closer - check out that tail-light. Try disconnecting it completely. Then see if you have issues with the headlights.

(what may be happening is a short in the tail-light somewhere - when you put on the headlights it lights the running light in the tail-light.)

Gosh though.

Joe K

[Randini509]

will do, had to walk away from it for the night.... lol

[Tom Wesenberg]

Disconnect the 2 wires from the brake switch and check each terminal to ground with the switch OFF and pulled ON. You should never show continuity in off or on. Some repro brake switches have had shorts to ground. If the switch checks out then look at the taillight.

Do you have the teacup light, or the drum taillight?

The drum light has a very different way to run power to the brake bulb, and I can find a picture if you want.

[Randini509]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Disconnect the 2 wires from the brake switch and check each terminal to ground with the switch OFF and pulled ON. You should never show continuity in off or on. Some repro brake switches have had shorts to ground. If the switch checks out then look at the taillight.

Do you have the teacup light, or the drum taillight?

The drum light has a very different way to run power to the brake bulb, and I can find a picture if you want.

This is the tail light i have. Except mine doesnt have the "STOP" printed lens on it.

[jrelliott]

For 6V operation 32/50 cp headlight draws 3.9A for 32 cp and 5.3A for 50 cp, 35W bulb is 5.47A and 25W is appx 4.2A. Need to figure how much Current will be drawn when running headlights, tail lights, dash light and any other accessories. Putting in the higher candle power bulbs everywhere can draw more current than the generator can handle. This is one of the reasons car manufacturers went to 12V. Changing to Led lights for tail lights helps with current draw.

[Randini509]

well....getting closer. Model A runs like a champ now. Disconnected the brake light relay by the battery, can put on the brakes now without pooping a fuse. But... i can turn the headlight switch one way, lights come on no problem. Switch it the other way fuse pops.....

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by Randini509

well....getting closer. Model A runs like a champ now. Disconnected the brake light relay by the battery, can put on the brakes now without pooping a fuse. But... i can turn the headlight switch one way, lights come on no problem. Switch it the other way fuse pops.....

Sounds like a short may be in the plug at the base of the headlamps. Also make sure the adjustment screw in the rear of the bucket isn't too long and hitting the socket.

[Randini509]

Prrrrrroblem solved! I have headlights and tail-light again! but i need a new brake light switch. That was more than the problem though. i pulled the headlight wires out of the socket and filed the round brass pins (that were so big the were almost touching), into triangle type shapes with a flat triangle file. Fired it up, flipped the switch left to right, high beams, lo beams, license plate and taillight working no fuse blowing but.. like i said i need a new tail light switch then my model a is finally dialed in!