Patina or Paint?

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by waynet

Now that is a great idea Sir. Would a Lacquer sealant job be a poor choice?

If you sprey it with lacquer/clear "paint" that could give it a cheesy look that may actually ruin the surface. The paste wax would not destroy the original paint.

[itslow]

A proper paint job is time consuming and expensive, and there's not much worse than a poorly done paint job.

Leave the patina.

[Lanny]

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankWest View Post
I was told by a guy with a truck with NO paint ON HIS 1929 TRUCK to use Johnson PaSTE WAX ON MY CAR. iT WAS THE BEST ADVICE i EVERY GOT.
bEAFOR THAT i WAS USING Gibbs OIL. lOOKED GOOD BUT ALL THE DUST STUCK TO IT.
With the paste wax iT LOOKS BEAUTIFUL and has ANTIQUE FINISH.
It is actually fun to polish small sections at a time..and boy does it shine...Real rich looking.


[QUOTE=waynet;Do you have an example to show?



Frank, waynet would like to see pictures of your vehicle and I'm sure many
here would like to see what your vehicle, as you describe it, looks like.




.

[FrankWest]

1933 original pain. There are scratches and some areas where primer shows but overall I like the look. I do little areas at a time and after several weeks the entire car is done then I redo it again and again. It is very satisfying.

[waynet]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

1933 original pain. There are scratches and some areas where primer shows but overall I like the look. I do little areas at a time and after several weeks the entire car is done then I redo it again and again. It is very satisfying.

Waxing over the entire Patina, as in our pickup, would actually enhance it's original look and protect bare metal? Is any rubbing down of body work with steel wool etc required prior to waxing. Your method would be interesting to know. Thanks.

[FrankWest]

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Originally Posted by waynet

Waxing over the entire Patina, as in our pickup, would actually enhance it's original look and protect bare metal? Is any rubbing down of body work with steel wool etc required prior to waxing. Your method would be interesting to know. Thanks.

no steel wool....don't remove any original paint, just wax over it.
as I said. I originally used Gibbs oil as a finish. The oil actually hide scratches in the original paint giving it a nice finish, but the oil attracted dust. The johson wax provide a more lasting finish. Without wax my car has a dull original paint finish.
Funny thing..If you ever saw the movie Bonnie and Clyde with fay dunnaway, The cars in that film look like they were painted with a paint brush..Very poor paint job for major budget film.

[FrankWest]

wash your car/truck let dry then apply very thin amount of wax,let it sit for 1/2 or so then buff off. If you put too think a coat you will have a hell of a time buffing it off.
People, including myself have forgotton how to paste wax. so you have to learn again.
apply very very thin coats and they buff off. Buffing is best achieved with cotton undershirts or similar material.
They guy that told me about this process was a genius and has greatly affected my antique car appearance. I will find his name and share it here.

[STEVE O]

Never tried it but sounds good. Does it turn white in rough areas where you can't rub it off? Thanks

[RalphG]

I did use steel wool but only on areas where the paint was down to metal and had slight surface rust. It smoothed down to bare metal and then I did a "rattle can" spray of the clear varnish you can buy in any hardware store. Only on areas where the paint was thin or gone. Any original paint I used Turtle rubbing compound to shine up the original paint. Then regular car wax. I'm happy with the results and its not rusting any more. The clear coat has not peeled or cracked but then this car is stored indoors all the time.

[Ken/Alabama]

Just enjoy it.

[Pat's Ride]

In my opinion leave it for now. When the patina wave subsides consider painting it. I enjoy my F100 because I don't worry about where I park, or who parks next to me. With the 38 I'm much more careful. The 38 gets more attention and it is a bit more favorite of mine.


[IMG][/IMG]

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Leave it be but I would spray it with a clear matte finish to hold it …..

[waynet]

Originally Posted by TomT/Williamsburg

Leave it be but I would spray it with a clear matte finish to hold it …..

Will a clear matte take to bare metal and eventually start to peal?

[FrankWest]

The genius that told me about the paste wax was Dave Allder. I think he may be on the forum? Not sure.
He waxed his truck which had almost no paint, and everyone loves the look.
Don't spray with clear coat it will look cheesy and can even ruin the original paint.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by STEVE O

Never tried it but sounds good. Does it turn white in rough areas where you can't rub it off? Thanks

apply very sparingly, then wait 1/2 hour or so and buff off. It will not leave white residue unless you apply too thick a coat then you will have to buff and buff lard to remove the excess.
Apply just a very thin coating of wax.
Just very lightly run your applicator/or old sock over the wax in the can then apply. I usually do 2 square ft or so at a time.
I purchased a stack of polishing towels but like the feel of old undershirt's "cotton" material. It does a better joy. If I keep polishing my car I will soon be walking around with No undershirt. With this technique, you can lose your shirt, literally.

[aussie merc]

Its your truck do what YOU want some would Paint others will leave alone ihave my opinion and thats what it is MY OPINION BUT its your truck so please yourself and enjoy

[JayChicago]

I agree with aussie merc. Do what YOU like.

It’s a tough decision. As we see from all the comments above, there are pros and cons each way. When I am faced with one of these tough decisions, I usually do nothing. I wait some time in the hopes a clear way to proceed will come to me later.

[FrankWest]

Remember once you repaint you can't go back. Wax or Gibbs oil you can clean off and then repaint if you are not satisfied.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by waynet

Will a clear matte take to bare metal and eventually start to peal?

Rust OLeum spray can of 2X Ultra Cover Matte Clear will stick to
about most anything you spray it on.
The trouble with spray cans, is the recoat-time listed on the back
of each can.
Small things can be done by the manufactures recoat times listed
on the back of the can. (recoat within 30 min OR wait 24 hours).
BIG things are a lot harder to keep the recoat times on.
If you recoat in an hour or two or five, you can get paint wrinkles, so
read the recoat times listed on back of the spray can.
Also, temperature and humidity has a lot to do with how well
spray paint turns out.

I've Never tried this product listed below, but sounds like it is pretty
easy to use, and sticks to most everything you spray it on, and lasts
quite a long time. Might just work for what you want to do.

https://carcarereviews.net/nexgen-ceramic-spray.php




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[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Pat's Ride

In my opinion leave it for now. When the patina wave subsides consider painting it. I enjoy my F100 because I don't worry about where I park, or who parks next to me. With the 38 I'm much more careful. The 38 gets more attention and it is a bit more favorite of mine.


[IMG][/IMG]

LOVE the 38 std look!!!