32BB 4cyl. timing.

[sonny]

Hey guys, I got my truck running today after a total rebuild. New pistons, rods, valves everything. The truck is spitting at idle out of the exhaust. I feel that the engine timing is a little too much advanced, by the way that it cranks over. I used Macs "nu-rex" tool to set the timing, by the way it's a slick, quick little tool. It gets you real close, real quick. The carb is rebuilt and seems fine. New plugs, points etc. I only put 10 miles on it today plus alot of idle time. Should I give it more time? Anything else I should be checking? The engine sounds great and for a 4cyl. has good power. Thanks in advance.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by sonny

Hey guys, I got my truck running today after a total rebuild. New pistons, rods, valves everything. The truck is spitting at idle out of the exhaust. I feel that the engine timing is a little too much advanced, by the way that it cranks over. I used Macs "nu-rex" tool to set the timing, by the way it's a slick, quick little tool. It gets you real close, real quick. The carb is rebuilt and seems fine. New plugs, points etc. I only put 10 miles on it today plus alot of idle time. Should I give it more time? Anything else I should be checking? The engine sounds great and for a 4cyl. has good power. Thanks in advance.

This is a few things Ive found on B engines. First off, I have seen model A front covers on B engines. There is a differance. The timing pin is in a diffrant postion. The Model A engine is timed on TDC. The B engine is timed 19 degrees BTC. The B dist has counter weights that advance 8* at a higher that Idel speed. There is no hand operated advance lever like a Model A-- i don't know how this nu-rex tool works but you have to make sure the timing is right. On all the A and B engines I build, before I install the head I find TDC and make a rugged pointer bolted on the front cover and file a notch in the front pulley at TDC. I put a dob of white paint on the pointer and file mark, now with a timing light I can tell where the timing is. The lights with a dial on the them makes it easy to tell total advance. Walt

[sonny]

Thanks Walt, I guess I'm Going to have to play with it. I know that all the parts are origional, but do you think the timing would make it spit at the exhaust?

[columbiA]

If the timing is fairly close,you can fine tune it by loosening the screw on side of breaker plate & moving plate a few degrees to advance or retard timing.If water is spitting out the exhaust after its well warmed up,it may be the head gasket leaking a bit.Try retorqeing it several times to 55 lbs after its cooled down.

[Frank Miller]

Are you running a B distributor? What constitutes a rebuilt carb? It means different things to different people. I am assuming all other electrical components check out ok.
Check here to make sure you have the right timing cover. If all else fails there may be more help on the Model A forum. Not that the guys that chimed in aren't knowledgeable. Their information is spot on.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm

[sonny]

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The only thing that has not been replaced on the carb. is the housing. The carb seems fine, only that I have to unscrew the choke knob out about a half turn. It is the origional dist. with new points, condenser, rotor and cap. I just checked the front cover as to your pics. and it's the 32 cover. Points set at .20, new plugs, wiring harness etc. I rechecked the head torque and it's good. It's just that when I go to start it, it will spin ok until I give it some choke, then it will drag like it's too far advanced. starter and battery are good.

[1932BB]

Whaddaya know! The exact same thing happened when I started my BB after a long restoration. A hunting miss at idle. It took me awhile but I found that the mounting tab on the condenser was loose and wobbling in the solder connection. Not noticeable until the condenser was removed. Run a ground wire to the condenser body when your BB is running. Maybe that's it!