Putting Electric Fuel pump in the tank of my 42

[edhd58]

I remember when I bought my new tank for the 42 Fordor I had to use a "modern" sending unit. I am wondering if anyone knows of an in tank fuel pump that I can use?? I've gone thru 2 electric inline and a couple mechanical rebuilds. I am just wondering if a in tank will be more reliable??

[supereal]

I use the inline electric pump sold by C&G. 11A-9350 E-6 for six volt systems, E-12 for 12 volts. The one in my '47 has lasted, without trouble, for 25 years. The in-tank pumps arrived when fuel pressure was raised as injection systems arrived, and the pumps were controlled by the ECM. The inline pump should be mounted close to the tank with a filter between them. High pump failure rate is often due to debris in the tank.

[my4dv8]

In tank pump in for fuel injection only to allow for surge and high pressure.

[42guy]

I have my electric pump mounted near tank for 16 years. Like Supereal states use a good filter at inlet to pump.

[19Fordy]

Ditch the "in tank" idea. If you do a SEARCH on FUEL PUMPS you will get lots of great info.
Install an inline pump as close to the tank as possible, followed by a filter, then the pump and then another in line filter up near the carb. I also installed a petcock in the fuel line near the tank to shut off the fuel when needed.

[big job]

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So put the fuel pump where it belongs . To me in tank pumps is the stupidest ugg.
now pickups do you know you have to take the body off for most newer trucksl. We just did one yesterday good thing for a lift in the shop. I have a F8 337 and the fuel pump for these is a student loan. So a napa 6vt pump right there at the line at the front up to
the carb. works perfectly turn key da da da fires right up. Sorry, my new years wish is
to get the so called "modern" crap out ya minds. As a trucker I drove these things way
before most were born with no problems : 1978 blizzard a 1951 F6 9 ft plow 3 weeks
plowing 20 miles state road just pecking away no food wimpy defrosters, ok green stuff
leaking out my eyes. That flathead never let me down ya wipers could not keep up it was constant ice scrapers and the heat, my breath made more heat in the cab. Sometimes we did not know where the road is. I try to stay in the center and my father
behind me with F8 with 10 ft plow push it over, stop, go to fathers, F8 oh is got heat and his wipers and defrosters are working. so i'm only saying for the young ones this was trucking / no cell phones / no electric fuel pumps / no fuel injection / no nothing but we getter done... oh no radio either oh back then whats a 4x4. all we had was chains: . Proof them flatheads don't need modern juck sam

[edhd58]

i've been fighting vapor lock since I got it running.
The original pump has been rebuilt and died twice, and now the electric one has too.
As far as in tank, the car has an access hole from Henry in the trunk, that allows nearly instant access to a "pump/sending unit". The last elec pump that went bad has NAPA in big letters right on the side.
As for trucks having to remove body parts, i let the dealers do that kinda crap, but no dealers around to work on these old cars. AND i hate like hell to have it die in traffic at a stop light from vapor lock, and that has happened a few times. The napa pump was just in front of the tank and just after the inline filter. SO I am looking at options to solve the problem.
like one of the smartest people i know said, if you keep doing what youve always done youre an idiot to believe youll get different results.

[drolston]

Two failed mechanical pumps probably means cheap diaphragm and valve materials that can not stand up to the alcohol. Get the expensive rebuild kit. But even a perfectly functioning mechanical pump will vapor lock on modern gas.

The electric pump back near the tank is the only solution to vapor lock, if you use gasahol. Two failed electric pumps seems very unusual. Could be a cheap product or just bad luck, but stay with the rear mount electric pump. The pump should be lower than the tank, in a protected location, away from any exhaust pipe. On your '42, that would be inside the frame rail, in front of the left rear wheel, right where the gas line runs.

On my '41, I kept the course filter that came with the pump on the fuel tank side of the pump and put a big fine filter after the pump. That way the pump will continue to provide flow when the big filter starts to build up flow restriction. The electric pumps will push like hell, but do not suck worth a darn.

[fordor41]

I've used $30 fuel pump from Autozone for 20 some years on my '41 and only had one go bad. luckily we had a spare in the trunk ready to go. Unluckily we were in a traffic jam on a highway in S.C.! Ditto on fuel filters.

[edhd58]

I think I may have discovered the reason the electric pumps have had a short life.
See if any of you agree.
I was talking to a friend that drag races. He said he learned a long time ago to only have the fuel pump on a dedicated circuit.
Mine is currently powered through the switch, which puts power to the coil along with a voltmeter.
I told him the voltmeter bounces either from the points voltage fluctuations as they open and close or from the fuel pump, I wasn't sure which one.
He told me I need to do a dedicated circuit, relayed with a switch. He said the fuel pump needs a steady non-nonfluctuating voltage source.

Anybody else agree with that? I kinda think he may be on to something.

[19Fordy]

True. Mine is a dedicated line with a toggle switch. Oil pressure sending unit is on left end of T. Pressure shut off switch is on right end of T.
When engine stops running and oil pressure drops, fuel pump shuts off. Looks like this.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by edhd58

Anybody else agree with that? I kinda think he may be on to something.

I would only run a fuel pump off of a dedicated circuit, and better yet using a relay. Another consideration is using an impact cutoff to kill the power in an impact. A switch is easy to come by from about any fuel injected car, I use the 5.0 mustang ones.