15 inch wheels on 1941

[1937hemi]

I am planning a long trip with my 41 coupe and want replace my 600-16 tires with 15" tires. Car is all original with drum brakes and I want wheels that somewhat maintain the look of original and my 41 hub caps fit onto.

Vintiques, US Wheel and Wheel Smith all make steel wheels with 5-1/2 bolt circle that my original hub caps will fit onto and they come in several widths and different backspacing. But I need help with what size wheel do I need for width and backspacing so that the tires fit in the fender well correctly.

[cas3]

ford 1/2 ton pickups way up in to the 70's all fit. dont know about the back space, but go to a junk yard and mount one to see

[1937hemi]

It's getting harder to find anything left in junk yards around by area. I think instead of junk yard wheels I would just as soon buy a new set - I just don't know what backspacing and width would allow the wheels to set in the fenders correctly

[TJ]

I just did this on my '40 coupe I used 15X5's on the front and 15X6's on the back. Got them from Summit and got Wheel Vintiques wheels. Got the standard back spacing. I did get a pair of U.S. Wheels first and sent them back. The quality was terrible and there was no way my stock hubcaps would fit, even though I was told they would fit.
You can also look around and find some 15X5 and 15X5 1/2 early Ford pickup wheels, but most have questionable bolt holes and many with rusty rims. You would spend just as much or more saving old rims as you would to buy new ones.
For tires I'm running 235X75 on the back and 195X65 on the front, but I also have a dropped axle on the front which necessitates the smaller tires.

[corvette8n]

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223285

Here is the issue with the wheels I bought from Jegs. I had to take my front hubs to my local NAPA and they drilled out the old studs and got some longer ones that were pressed in after he machined off some of the long shoulder. Someone had already changed out the rear studs which are newer and longer.

My original hubcaps fit but not the outer trim rings, also the rims are powder coated grey. I'll have to look up my rims but I believe they were 3-3/4 or 4 inch back spacing. The 15" wheels lowered the entire car by about an inch. The speedometer wasn affected that much, I use a speedometer app on an old android phone mounted to the dash with a magnet.

[Ggmac]

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Jeep of the 70s . Not as easy as it use to be finding . Good luck .

[slowforty]

235x75 on the back look good but they are a bitch to get on and off. I would recommend 205x75 all the way around

[grumppyoldman]

Keep in mind the 600 / 16 will have a larger dia. than the ones you are looking at. I would get a rear tire close to the same dia. to keep down the RPM at hiway speeds. Al

[skidmarks]

If you want the stock hub cap. Use 1956 to 1966 ford pickups. Or 48 mercury.

But tracking them down might take some time. I use to find them in junkyards.
Otherwise like said, buy new ones

[1937hemi]

If I go with 6" wide wheels does anybody have an idea of what back spacing I should use so that the tire is centered in the fender and not rubbing on anything. It looks like wheels come in 1/4 or 1/2 in increments starting with 3-3/4 inch.

If I keep with what has been suggested about tire size and keeping with something close to the diameter of a 600-16 it will have to be a 225/75 which is only 1/2 inch shorter. Speedo change should be minimal

[TJ]

My back spacing is 3 3/4" on the 6" wheel

[1937hemi]

Thanks everyone for your input

[cmbrucew]

I am running 205x75R15 all around on crager mags
Bruce

[Charlie Stephens]

Be sure to plan ahead for your hubcaps.

Charlie Stephens

[42guy]

I have been using Ford 1\2 ton wheels for years No problem fitting on my 1942.

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by 42guy

I have been using Ford 1\2 ton wheels for years No problem fitting on my 1942.

Me too on my '37 .

[fordor41]

ditto on the 235/75's on the rear. I always thought 195's were a bit small on front.I went with 205's on the front. also kept my speedo pretty close.

[19Fordy]

Here's the info. on my 40. Perhaps it will help you.
The front tires do not rub the fenders when cornering. Since then I have installed the MT Products Lincoln brake kit on all for wheels. Using narrower front tires and/or removing leafs from your stock front spring may also enable you to "fine tune" your drop. The 40 Ford rear wheel mounting to wheel mounting distance is 59 and 1/2 in. I think the 41 is the same. The front axle is the same as a 41 Ford so I assume the front WMS to WMS is the same as a 40. I am sure you can find comparable radial tires to the bias ply I used.

My 1940 Build Info.

Front suspension; Magnum 4 in. dropped axle with matching Magnum dropped steering arms. The axle is 3/4 in. narrower than stock axle to allow better tire/fender clearance. Front spring is POSIE #2040 39in spring with reversed eyes. Also Posie front shackles.
Front has tube shocks and stock 1940 sway bar. Tube shocks were on th car when I bought the car in 1963. Bottom of shock attaches to perch bolt; top of shock attaches to vertical support that is bolted to frame rail. ( This was a kit that was sold many years ago and sometimes comes up on ebay.) I think similiar kits are available today from Chassis Engineering , TCI, etc.) I did not have to split the wishbones since the trans is stock 1940 trans with stock torque tube driveline and completely stock rear end with 3:78 gears. Rear spring is stock and not reversed. Rear shackles are replacements, but same as stock. Front tires are 5:60 x 15 Coker wide whites (2 3/4 in. white wall) on stock 15 x 5 1/2 early Ford truck rims (total rim width is 6 1/2 in.). Tire dia. is 25.88 in. Rear of car has BF Goodrich (from Coker) 7:60 x15 with 3 3/8 white wall. Rear tire dia is 28.66in. Rear rims are 15x6 from SOLIDS with 4 inch back spacing and 3 inch front spacing for a total rim width of 7 in. Bolt pattern of all wheels is stock 5 x 5 1/2 in. Bottom of front chin pan below grille is about 4 1/2 in off the ground. Because car sits so low two jacks are needed to lift front end in case of flat tire. One jack first lifts frame and then another jack goes under axle to lift wheel. One jack will not fit under the nose of the car as it is so low and you have to use 2 jacks so as not to crush the front sheet metal when lowering the car. On rear of car you need to first jack up the frame and then use another jack to jack up the axle housing in order to change a tire as it is a close fit. After installing the axle and front spring I had to shorten the tie rod by about 3/4 in and make the drag link about 3/4 in longer and rethread it 11/16-18 RH thread. When rewelding the tie rod, I cut it in the middle, inserted a solid piece of round stock, assembled the tie rod and welded all the joints. Right now the car "sits right" but the fluid from the rear end runs forward into the drive shaft since the car sits at such a rake. There is a baffle available for this problem but the rear and torque tube must be removed to install it. Since originally writing this, I have removed the rear end and installed this baffle and a new style neoprene seal in the clamshell. Clamshell is filled with cornhead grease. No leaks so far.

[RKS.PA]

I put 205/75's all the way around on my '39, but did have to change the "turtle" to get the speedometer exactly right. Wonderful ride and handling!!! Also like the look v. 600/16. Good luck!

Dick.

[George/Maine]

Other ways to change tire and wheel sizes.
US Wheels and Wheel Vintics 16" 6" 5 1/2" 3.750 or 4' BS
Coker WWs 235-70-16" Dia 28.80 Radials
If you buy there hub caps may not clear the rear axle.
The 3.750 BS may clear better.