What's the trick for installing lower spring on motor mount

[Dollar Bill]

As you can see in the photo, the stud isn't long enough to install the spring. Not sure how to compress it to get the nut started.

I tried to install the bottom spring first and then the top ones but I didn't have enough clearance to get the top springs in place.

Previous installation had a 1/2" thick chunk of rubber instead of the lower spring. And I would like to put it back the way it was originally designed.

Top springs are 1-1/2" uncompressed -They came in the motor mount kit from Snyder's.

[Bob C]

Ford discontinued the bushing in Jan 29 and used a flat washer also
some of the upper replacement springs are to long, see the link
to Marco's site about the proper length springs. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm

Bob

[green30coupe]

With the engine out I used a 6" C clamp to compress the springs enough to get the nut started. Doesn't take much pressure & I used a rag to keep from scratching the paint on the motor mount and bottom of the cross member. (Had to kinda fit the clamp between the cross member and tie-rod.)

[larrys40]

The front engine mount is covered in the service bulletins pretty well. Make sure your two springs underneath the yoke aren't the type that are too thick and allow the engine to sit up too high. Usually the snyders ones are OK I believe. As Bob said the bushing is not used any longer and should have a flat washer with the spring underneath and castle nut to follow underneath of it. It appears your stud is fairly new... is it possibly one of the repro yokes or a stud that has been replaced too short.

You eventually want to have some space 1/32-1/64 space between the coil springs top and bottom to allow the engine to float slightly up or down... and in addition the crank should align from the front through the front crank cover/front spring/crank bearing assembly for the crank to align properly into the front crank nut.

You might have to try another set of springs and/or adjust the length of them slightly to get what you need on them... keeping in mind the spring coil gap and alignment of the crank to the crank nut on the crankshaft.

Again, a flat washer, spring and castle nut on the bottom side, no brass bushing.
Larry

[SeaSlugs]

well in your photo is that with the engine to yoke bolts snugged or finger tight and the weight of the engine compressing the springs on top? if the engine is still present how loose are the rear bolts? maybe push down on the engine while attempting to put the spring on?

but yes it could be a repro yoke or a short replacement stud...

[huddy]

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I found it was easier to do with the rear mounts loose (I have FAMs on the rear) and the transmission mount (FAM again) removed. I used a floor jack on the oil pan, with a large piece of wood to distribute the weight. I jacked the engine just enough to clear the front mount so it could be fitted into the crossmember. I then installed the mount by putting in the lower spring first, with the nut tightened just far enough to stay engaged. I then installed the upper springs, maybe in an unconventional manner. I used a strap ratchet through the engine mount holes, pulled one side up first, put the spring in, then repeated on the other side. Next installed the engine mount bolts, and finally tightened the lower nut until the crank hole lined up correctly.

[RonC]

Yes you must loosen the rear engine to motor mount bolts. That will allow proper engine alignment.

[Bill in SoCal]

Originally Posted by RonC

Yes you must loosen the rear engine to motor mount bolts. That will allow proper engine alignment.

After loosening the bolts, I recommend that you remove one bolt on each side (both upper bolts). This helps reduce stress on the motor mounts and housing. Bill

[Dollar Bill]

Thanks guys for all of your advice.

I removed the bushing as Bob indicated and was able to get the nut on.

[walt jones]

With front engine mount bolted in place including both upper springs, leaf spring and leather spacer. The lower engine mount stud will appear through the front crossmember as it does in Dollar Bills picture. The spring seems to long to get a nut on the stud. What worked for me to get the nut on was to place a board under the rear of the engine then exert upward presure with a jack,this tipped the front of the engine downward enough (you dont need much)to be able to get the spring on and a nut started on the stud.
Good Luck,

[James Rogers]

The simple solution is to insert the crank handle into the crank nut and pull up till the nut will thread on.

[Dollar Bill]

Great idea James! Wish I'd of thought of it - Simple and effective.

[glenn in camino]

Patience