How would you fix severly pitted crossmember metal?

[hotcoupe]

You could buy one from me, and hang that one on the wall.
Tom

[G.M.]

I would braze it. G.M.

[Ziggster]

I think I would weld in some of the deeper ones and just use body filler on the rest. I always wondered why people didn't clean up the pitting on "show" cars. I'm surprised somewhat that there haven't been more responses. I repaired an off-road bumper that was badly pitted with just body filler. Really bad sections were cut out and replaced, but that was just simple flat sections.

[Ziggster]

Not sure on how to upload multiple pics...

[nickthebandit]

Try metal spraying, sandblast clean first. I have used this method in the past, and had good results.

[DavidG]

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If the cross member is structurally sound, welding or brazing pits (as opposed to welding cracks) does not seem to be an effective use of one of our most valuable and limited resources, time.

[34pickup]

Originally Posted by DavidG

If the cross member is structurally sound, welding or brazing pits (as opposed to welding cracks) does not seem to be an effective use of one of our most valuable and limited resources, time.

David, I am retired. Time is the one thing I have more of, or at least a lot more of it than I do money or talent.

[Automotive Stud]

That's heavy steel, you won't warp it. Fill it with mig and grind smooth.

[Carl]

Originally Posted by Automotive Stud

That's heavy steel, you won't warp it. Fill it with mig and grind smooth.

Use JB Weld. Its an epoxy with hardener.

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by 34pickup

Do you think leading would work?

Leading should work fine, would be harder than epoxy or body filler.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Personally, I’d do as deuce roadster suggested and v cut the cracks and weld, and use a GOOD filler for the pits

The most ideal fix would be filling each pit using a TIG welder and grinding back smooth, but for the time involved; I wouldn’t go that route.

I know it's pricey, but Belzona 1212 or 1111 is the way to go for epoxies.

Honestly, those pits aren't the worst I've seen. Snag with a front X member is is can be seen to some degree.

[tubman]

Tim,

I have heard a lot of good things about Belzona. I have looked for it on-line and it looks like Belzona has the market locked up. Do you know where to get it in reasonable quantities at reasonable prices? Amazon lists the 1111, but says it is "Currently Unavailable".

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tubman

Tim,

I have heard a lot of good things about Belzona. I have looked for it on-line and it looks like Belzona has the market locked up. Do you know where to get it in reasonable quantities at reasonable prices? Amazon lists the 1111, but says it is "Currently Unavailable".

Haha. They don't make it easy. You need to call their corporate customer service and they put you in touch with their local salesman and get it directly from them.

He recommended going with 1212 over 1111 since 1212 comes in smaller qualities and smaller price. 1212 also allows for application on less than "surgical clean" items and still works.

I think I paid $160 shipped for 1212. I only need the smallest amount (rot hole on the outside of a flathead block's water jacket. Once opened, it has a 5 year shelf life.

I know it's more money, but I want to do this job right and only once, so it was worth it to me to spend extra money to get the best stuff.

[aussie merc]

pitting the devils curse check the depth of the pitting any thing over 25% will need to be filled with weld [bondo devcon etc are basicly all the same fillers NO STRUCTURAL STRENGTH ] it takes time to spot them out but there arnt any short cuts that work