30/31 bango ring & pinion condition

[pookie55]

As i'm not a pro at the model A differential i have a few questions for all the pro's on the barn..

First i had to brake down my truck's rear axle due to the right axle shaft thread's were not repairable(i tried).Axle nuts were only torqued down to 35 & 27 lbs. when i tried to re torque them-the threads just laid down.
For a mere $50. dollars i purchased the entire rear Bango assembly with drive shaft & complete drum/brake assembly.

Second when i removed the axle housing from the left side i found 3/4 in. thick grease in the bottom of the bango... upon further review and complete disassembly i see there is no axle drive shaft seals on either side(reason for grease in bango).also throughout axle housing.

Third do i need to replace the race & bearings while i have the rear apart?
Does the race have to be removed to install axle drive shaft seal??

Also the ring & pinion looks good to me. I did not want to remove the bango from the torque tube unless it was really necessary.

I'll post the pic's if possible or there in my truck parts pic's

[Dave in MN]

Setting up a rear end assembly correctly is a bit complicated.

For all the info you are looking for and more, go to Tom Endy's Tech Articles for the Model A Rear End Assembly. Follow this link:

http://www.santaanitaas.org/technica...tech-articles/

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

Setting up a rear end assembly correctly is a bit complicated.

For all the info you are looking for and more, go to Tom Endy's Tech Articles for the Model A Rear End Assembly. Follow this link:

http://www.santaanitaas.org/technica...tech-articles/

Plus 1 on Dave. You may want to shim that drive shaft pinion position to get proper mating with the ring gear. I would expect to remove the torque tube if you've changed any of the moving parts in a differential.

And don't forget Ford made a MAJOR revision to the differential carrier dimensions during production. You can shim here too to compensate. Tom tells how.

Axle shaft seals CAN be installed without removing the bearing races (which are closer to the banjo.) But why bother? A long punch or even a 3' 3/8" steel rod can "walk" the race out of the trumpet. And you tap new ones in similarly (but gently.) If you're apart on the rear end replace anything suspect that you can afford. I prefer Timken 28156s but AutoZone and NAPA has aftermarket bearings and races for about half the money. And, except for proven performance from Timken, there isn't that much difference quality wise between ISO conforming bearings.

You'll need "layout die." I like black magic marker myself (it lays down in a thinner coat.)

Gosh. I wish I was there - this sounds like FUN!

Joe K

[pookie55]

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thanks for the info guy's..
especially tech articles.
I have now removed both axle shaft seals and cleaned both trumpets than reinstalled seals..Now waiting for bango gaskets from snyder