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Old 05-30-2016, 03:43 PM   #1
flatrod
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Default 55 Bird master cylinder

My master cylinder is leaking again, its the old single master cyl. What would be a good choice to change it to a dual cylinder master. Its an all stock original Bird and I hate to change it, but tired of dealing with leaks.
Any good recommended choices?
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Old 05-30-2016, 04:52 PM   #2
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Did you rebuild the last one or replace it with a new one?
If someone knows of a replacement dual version that is an easy fit I might be interested too.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:00 PM   #3
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

I can't find the thread now, but somewhere along the line I saw what to use. I think it was an early Mustang for drum/drum. It was early, like the first year required. 1968? Maybe you'll have more luck than I did in a search.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:40 PM   #4
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

The first one was the original rebuilt, the second was a new one that I had bought 20 some years ago for a different project. I lubed it up before installing knowing it has sat for years. It just started leaking from sitting over the winter. If there's nothing that is a easy fit, I'll try to rebuild it again.



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Did you rebuild the last one or replace it with a new one?
If someone knows of a replacement dual version that is an easy fit I might be interested too.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:50 AM   #5
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

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Originally Posted by flatrod View Post
The first one was the original rebuilt, the second was a new one that I had bought 20 some years ago for a different project. I lubed it up before installing knowing it has sat for years. It just started leaking from sitting over the winter. If there's nothing that is a easy fit, I'll try to rebuild it again.
Same will apply to your T-Bird part numbers are listed too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXfXKlj2D1I
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Old 05-31-2016, 03:40 PM   #6
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

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Thanks JeffB2 I will look into putting a 67 Mustang master cyl on.
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Old 06-01-2016, 02:35 AM   #7
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

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Thanks JeffB2 I will look into putting a 67 Mustang master cyl on.
Always check the depth of the piston and compare the new to your old one at the parts store.
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Old 06-09-2016, 02:35 PM   #8
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

I have the absolutely correct master cylinder -- and the four wheel drum dual conversion master cylinder -- both BRAND NEW!!!!!!
If you haven't addressed the issue yet, feel free to give me a call --
Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935 .... New York......
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Old 04-28-2018, 07:29 PM   #9
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

I assume you sold these. Can you provide part numbers or description so others can locate them from suppliers?
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:28 PM   #10
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

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I assume you sold these. Can you provide part numbers or description so others can locate them from suppliers?
The one in the video is an Autozone part number M1485 this is a rebuilt $43.99 including the core charge,so you are thinking why a rebuilt? That is because even though you can but a new one for about $10 less most are made in China or India and quality not all that great many of the rebuilds are Bendix OEM cores and the quality is better,look on the under side for the brand you may have to look at several.
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:29 AM   #11
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Unhappy Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

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Originally Posted by flatrod View Post

My master cylinder is leaking again, its the old single master cyl. What would be a good choice to change it to a dual cylinder master. Its an all stock original Bird and I hate to change it, but tired of dealing with leaks.

Any good recommended choices?
This is always a good subject to start a heated debate...

1stly...

Is the car a dedicated resto, show or driver?

A dual master cylinder will fail just as quickly as a single due to lack of service (keeping the brake fluid changed). That is what is causing failure if the replacement parts are of quality.

If the car has a Midland Booster and you are keeping it four wheel drum, I would have an original MC sleeved with stainless steel and a QUALITY overhaul kit. You can do the same with wheel cylinders.

But most importantly of all, please do not use the DELCO-MORON Corvette style MC so popular with all of the brake changeover sellers.
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:09 AM   #12
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

I feel your pain.
For years I was having constant problems with leaky wheel cylinders due to internal corrosion.
Now, I bleed the brakes every spring before even moving the cars.
Brake fluid attracts moisture and it settles in lower areas of the brake system and eventually causes rust.
Sleeving with sst inserts would certainly eliminate much of that. I just recently got a cost of $125 per cylinder, MC would probably be slightly more.
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:50 AM   #13
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Kultulz, its a unrestored original car, its driven very little. When we got it, it had been sitting in a garage nearly 25 years. All the brakes were shot. So all new old stock Ford parts were used. All the wheel cylinders are holding up fine, just the master cylinder won't stop leaking. As much as I don't want to, I will sooner or later have to go to the dual master.
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:04 AM   #14
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Even the best rubber products only have a shelf life of 20-years, ie fluorocarbon or fluorosilicon elastomers. More likely the shelf life would be 10-years for the average nitrile rubber brake part. If the cylinder is in good condition, with new parts, it should'nt leak. If it has any defects in the bore then it can leak no matter what type of master cylinder you have.
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:56 PM   #15
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Rebuild it, then use DOT 5 fluid. Problem solved
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:58 PM   #16
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Brake rubber is not what it used to be, just my opinion. I drive my car all year round even though it gets very cold by me. So moisture build up is less of an issue.


Read up on DOT 5 brake fluid before you change to it, make sure all your parts are compatible with it. I know that there is a lot involved if you want to do it right.
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:45 PM   #17
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

I seem to have just as much trouble with Dot 5 as I did with Dot 3. Apples and oranges, nothing lasts forever.
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:43 PM   #18
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

I have an 67 ElCamino I took everything off of, blew out, and changed over to DOT4. Seems to be holding up well, and it's been 5 or 6 years.
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Old 01-11-2019, 02:55 PM   #19
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Maybe I should have stipulated years ago when I answered this originally --
but I have both the CORRECT master cylinder BRAND NEW ---
and the 4 wheel drum dual conversion master cylinder BRAND NEW ---
all the time; and everyone is always welcome to call me anytime....
Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... West Hempstead, New York.....
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:44 AM   #20
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

White post restorations does sleeving in brass with lifetime warranty unless you use Dot 5.
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:43 PM   #21
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Unless you use DOT 5...that's interesting.
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Old 01-16-2019, 09:51 AM   #22
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Someone once told me that the original brake light switch (on my 56 Bird and probably on your 55) doesn't like DOT5. The switch is pressure actuated from the brake fluid and may corrode due to it.

To get around this, many suppliers provide a 'manual' switch that works directly off the brake pedal.
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Old 01-16-2019, 08:58 PM   #23
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Default Re: 55 Bird master cylinder

Highly recommend the mechanical (manual) switch. When adjusted correctly, the brake lights go on as soon as you hit the pedal. Put one on my 56 Bird and made a similar switch for my 54 Ford. Save your rear end!!!! CASCO has the kit .


You keep the hydraulic swtich and wiring in place as a back up.




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Someone once told me that the original brake light switch (on my 56 Bird and probably on your 55) doesn't like DOT5. The switch is pressure actuated from the brake fluid and may corrode due to it.

To get around this, many suppliers provide a 'manual' switch that works directly off the brake pedal.
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