Rear hub won't turn

[Wareagle]

I know, wrong place to ask...but! I changed the brakes over to juice. All went well until I installed the tire on the right rear. Wheel turns free until I tighten the lug bolts. Any ideas on what to be looking at? Hubs and drums are all new from speedway. I ask same question on the HAMB and got no answers.
Thanks Jim

[brokenspoke]

You have to clearance the outer part of the brake drum

[brokenspoke]

I would suggest going over to the HAMB, and search for monthly banger meet. The procedure is there to clearance the brake drums

[larrys40]

lots of issues that can be possibilities in doing these conversions. brake drum/backing plate issues, etc. I don't want to reinvent the wheel so I think checking out the HAMB is a good start suggestion.
Larry

[rocket1]

I would compare the right rear drum and brake assy. to the left rear assy. which is working properly,this might show you what the problem is.

[BlockBuster]

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If you're using juice drum and backing plates on your A axles you need to clearance them both. Dennis Cling has a wonderful how-to packet that explains it all.

[dwollam]

Also, are you using the adapter/spacer between the hyd. drum and the wire wheels? Very much needed for the wheels to seat properly.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Wareagle

I know, wrong place to ask...but! I changed the brakes over to juice. All went well until I installed the tire on the right rear. Wheel turns free until I tighten the lug bolts. Any ideas on what to be looking at? Hubs and drums are all new from speedway. I ask same question on the HAMB and got no answers.
Thanks Jim

Did you use a kit of scrounged parts? what parts did you use?

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by dwollam

Also, are you using the adapter/spacer between the hyd. drum and the wire wheels? Very much needed for the wheels to seat properly.

I doubt this problem is keeping the wheels from rotating but here is an illustration: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...=1#post1286293 . My bet is you will find the drums are rubbing on the backing plates.

Charlie Stephens

[Wareagle]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I bought the early Ford hubs and drums from Speedway. Backing plates the were the 41 style. After taking several dimensions, I do believe the hubs are locking up on the backing plates. I will have them cut down 1/8" and see if that is enough clearance. I did use the wheel adapters for the wire wheels.

Thanks again for all the help.
Jim

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Wareagle

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I bought the early Ford hubs and drums from Speedway. Backing plates the were the 41 style. After taking several dimensions, I do believe the hubs are locking up on the backing plates. I will have them cut down 1/8" and see if that is enough clearance. I did use the wheel adapters for the wire wheels.

Thanks again for all the help.
Jim

Before whacking up the hubs and drums...put some red paint on all the outward projections of the brake parts themselves, put the drums and wheel on, tighten the wheel bolts to where the wheel will not turn, remove the wheel and hub and see just where the red paint is on the inside of the brake drum...if no paint, then that is not your problem.

Pluck

[brokenspoke]

If you put a axle shim on the axle it will move the drum away from backing plate

[Wareagle]

I had the drums cut 1/8" and it did turn better but still a little tight. Where does one find axle shims? It's getting better but still needs a little tweeking. Thanks again for all the help.
Jim

[john in illinois]

I had to clearance the rear drums. I did a 2 part clearance. took some off backing plate lip and some off the valley in the lip on the drums. You can use machinist dye or paint to see where it is rubbing. In my opinion shims are not the best way to do it. You lose the solid contact between axle and hub taper.

John

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

I had to clearance the rear drums. I did a 2 part clearance. took some off backing plate lip and some off the valley in the lip on the drums. You can use machinist dye or paint to see where it is rubbing. In my opinion shims are not the best way to do it. You lose the solid contact between axle and hub taper.

John

I agree on the axle shims....when I did mine I machined the axle bell where the backing plate mounted to move the backing plate away from the drum