Do not believe in nuts for tank cleaning

[Bruce in southern OH]

If you read the forum and have been told to put nuts, chain or other items in your gas tank to remove rust, it will not work, it might clean an area around your fill, but it can not get around baffles. Several people have added cleaner, solvent, miracle agents, but there is nothing better than to open the can of worms. Don P. was good enough to show me what is hiding in my old 34 tank, we cut the top off today and tomorrow to sand blaster, thanks for heads up Don
( make sure to fill with water before you attempt this!!!)

[jkeesey]

We trained our local radiator shop how to do just that. He rewelds them where its not visible and pressure tests it.

[Al K.]

Hi, that metal is pretty thin. (Ask me how I know) What welding method are you planning on using? Mig tig brazing? Thanks Al K.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Don, did as you just said on his 36 tank, I plan to do the same. We will treat metal after blasting with sealer, then weld, then add more sealer and turn tank on top and spin/turn to treat metal that was welded, best we can do, thanks Bruce

[Woodie1]

WOW. Never would have thought they would look that bad inside.

[Bruce in southern OH]

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I had this truck running with a filter, now I know I would need a filter the size of gas tank. Remember you can seal this crud, Ken in CT probably sees the results of this kind of tank all the time!!!!

[Don]

Helping Bruce out ,trying to save a hard to find tank,we cut it on the seam being careful to just cut thru the top metal and not the lower flange, I used my mig welder on my tanks. And had no problems moving around to prevent heat warping ,the metal will be double thickness and should have no burn thru if careful,Takes a little time but well worth the effort to save a hard to find tank. Of course Bruce will coat the inside with a suitable sealer before welding up,then pour some in and turn tank slowly to seal weld seam

[m.e.pouncy]

I recommend you replace it with a dual line fuel cell and put a 2012 Ford Coyote engine with a 6 speed in it..maybe a 4" chop...just sayin...

[jkeesey]

I think I just passed out over that last post.

[Bruce in southern OH]

I will stick with the little flathead V8, treated old gas tank and top speed of 45MPH, no chop, going slow and easy down the road!!!!!!

[Roger/Sacramento]

I like the idea of throwing a couple of cans of bolts, nuts and some sharp small rocks into the tank with some paint thinner or such and rig up a carousel. Let it run for a day and see what happens. Cheap and not a lot of work.

[Don]

Don't really think this would have worked on this tank with all the baffles ,even getting a good sealer would have been a hit or miss thing.,even on the 35/36 the baffle openings were to small for bolts or whatever to pass thru.

[1937pickup]

Interesting viewing inside your gas tank-leared a lot from the pictures.

[jimTN]

Muratic acid works fine and will get rid of all the rust.

[Sid the Maineiac]

Bruce, you were very fortunate to have the help from a real gentleman and someone
who believes in doing things right .Don is one of those rare people!

[keith oh]

Larry Parker in Zanesville Ohio opens, cleans and rewelds fuel tanks and is reasonable on price. 740 453 6752

[Fibber Mcgee]

I had the same thing on my 49 F1 but the baffles were rusted through so I just replaced the tank. I turned my old tank into a parts washer in my shop.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Sid, you are right on with description of Don, very thorough. I did take the tank, tank top and the two 34 doors to have blasted today. I will post the photo of tank after I get it back, one of bare metal and then one with sealer. ( will have to get some POR here locally for that job ) Hope someday to make it WAAAYYYYY up north, Bruce in southern OHIO

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by jimTN

Muratic acid works fine and will get rid of all the rust.

I have several tanks here now that were ruined with Muratic. It is too strong and very difficult to neutralize. Phosphoris is a better product however for some reason the Terne and Phosphoric counteract one another as I find it will not pickle the rust well.

Originally Posted by Roger/Sacramento

I like the idea of throwing a couple of cans of bolts, nuts and some sharp small rocks into the tank with some paint thinner or such and rig up a carousel. Let it run for a day and see what happens. Cheap and not a lot of work.

Roger, how do you propose to get all those items to get into ever nook & cranny with the tank baffles in place. We have cut open a couple of tanks after they have been tumbled for a day strapped to a tractor wheel just to see if it is effective. Many obscure areas never we even touched by the all the nuts & rocks. Those "obscure areas" always had rust on them.

.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Woodie1

WOW. Never would have thought they would look that bad inside.

I can show you many that are that bad. Here lately it seems the 1 out of every 3 or 4 we are getting are pretty bad inside where they are not worth restoring. Awhile back one person wh had one not worth restoring bought another tank that looked good inside down through the cap & gauge openings. He had it painted and installed and within a few miles of driving it was making sediment again. We cut it open and it was rusted on the top behind the baffles where it could not be seen. He lost $400 in paint work as it all went away when we put it into hot caustic. You just never know.