Drag Link on a '40

[philipswanson]

I was wondering if the nuts go up or down? I have seen pictures both ways. What about the rubber boots on the outboard ends? Doesn't seem like we need them with the steel hats in place.

[19Fordy]

Yes, keep the rubber boots. Nuts are on top. On this 40 steering arms are dropped along with a 4 in. dropped axle and Posie reversed eye spring. i added another nut to perch bolt to protect the threads. But the install is the same as stock. Here's a look see.

[philipswanson]

Thanks!

[TJ]

Originally Posted by philipswanson

I was wondering if the nuts go up or down? I have seen pictures both ways. What about the rubber boots on the outboard ends? Doesn't seem like we need them with the steel hats in place.

The rubber boots keep out dust , dirt, and water. The steel hats do not.

[philipswanson]

I only got one rubber boot with the new drag link. Does this go on the outboard end? It seems like this thick rubber boot would take up space and keep you from bottoming out the studs??

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by philipswanson

I was wondering if the nuts go up or down? I have seen pictures both ways. What about the rubber boots on the outboard ends? Doesn't seem like we need them with the steel hats in place.

Unless it's been modified, you have not seen a '40 with the nuts on the bottom. The tie rod ends are tapered so fit in one direction only.
There is a piece of rubber approximately 3/16" thick - very similar to a reinforced piece of heater hose, that goes between the steel cupped washer and the mating surface of the drag link and tie rod. This authentic assembly works quite well at keeping foreign debris from entering the tie rod ends.
Rubber boots? Not correct but what is typically supplied with replacement tie rod ends.

[19Fordy]

Kube, Thanks for that very helpful info. Wonder if a slice of heater hose could be used, if needed?

[philipswanson]

Thanks Kube, very helpful. Yes I saw those packaged too.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Kube, Thanks for that very helpful info. Wonder if a slice of heater hose could be used, if needed?

That's what I use... the reinforced stuff. I get it at NAPA

[V8COOPMAN]

Fact of the matter is that even if the tapered hole in the spindle arm were tapered such that you could install with the nut on bottom, the drag link won't clear the bottom of the '37-'40 wishbone, as the drag link would sit too high mounted ATOP the spindle arm. This is one reason to be very careful when buying "round-back" spindles ('37-'41) to use on a '37-'40....quite a few (but not all) '41 spindles have the drag link hole tapered opposite of the '37-'40 spindle, making them useless on a '40. There is a '41 drag link shaped such that it would work on a '40, seen below. DD

[JSeery]

Not useless if original is not a consideration. You can ream the hole in the direction you want only reaming to the center. Common Hot Rod trick.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Not useless if original is not a consideration. You can ream the hole in the direction you want only reaming to the center. Common Hot Rod trick.

Common, but still Mickey Mouse.
The face of the nut, ends up taking the half of the load bearing surface lost in reaming backwards. It will fail when on the road because few hot rodders check for loose tie rod end tapers. It will get loose sooner than later.

[19Fordy]

Pete, I agree with you but, do you think it would be possible to make a tapered hollow steel shim to fit inside the OEM taper and thereby eliminate "slop" and the poor fit you describe?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Pete, I agree with you but, do you think it would be possible to make a tapered hollow steel shim to fit inside the OEM taper and thereby eliminate "slop" and the poor fit you describe?

I think (but what the heck do I know) I would just get the proper spindle and be done with it. They're still plentiful and reasonable. In fact, any serious old Ford guy ought to have a bunch of spare spindles in his stash. DD

[19Fordy]

OK V8, you got my attention. Now I gotta go out and find some spare 40 spindles 'cause I don't have any.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Pete, I agree with you but, do you think it would be possible to make a tapered hollow steel shim to fit inside the OEM taper and thereby eliminate "slop" and the poor fit you describe?

Yes, it COULD be done but that will be a very small sleeve with close tolerances.
A challenging machining job.

A much easier way is to use the early Ford truck tie rod ends and just ream the spindle arm all the way through backward. They have a 3/4 NF thread and the taper is big enough to back ream the hole and get full contact through the arm.
This approach will need a new piece of tubing for the rod though. If going this route, I would use 4130 tubing with 3/16 wall. Use jam nuts instead of splitting the tube ends and using clamps. Safer.

[fordor41]

Originally Posted by Pete

Common, but still Mickey Mouse.
The face of the nut, ends up taking the half of the load bearing surface lost in reaming backwards. It will fail when on the road because few hot rodders check for loose tie rod end tapers. It will get loose sooner than later.

I installed a tie rod end into my pitman arm reverse of what it should be for clearance. Was on my '41 ford for 24 years and never loosened up.