Converting to an alternator

[jon laing]

I am interested in converting my stock 39. Sounds like Ed Whitney has a good kit. How do I contact him? Jon Laing

[Steve Staysko]

http://www.ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

529 S. Raymond Ave. Fullerton, CA 92831 | Phone: (714) 773-1611 | Toll Free: (800) 713-1611
Fax: 714-773-4963 | Email Us: [email protected]

[G.M.]

I don't know how to contact Ed Whitney or remember what he uses. I had a friend that bought 2 converted GM alternators that were 6 volt POS ground. They put them on and tried them for 2 weeks and removed them because they didn't work as good as their alternators on the short driving they did. They gave both of them to me. I tried one and didn't like it either. With even the smallest stock 35, 36 generator pulley the engine RPM has to get to high before it charges. A lot of these conversions us a VERY small pulley to get the RPM's up. With a small pulley the belt don't get much surface area to be driven so the belt must be over tightened. Not good on the alternator bearing or the water pumps. I took one to an old electric shop and they said if the installed a 24 volt stator it would charge at lower RPM's. I had one done at a cost of $35.00 and it worked perfect with the smallest stock pulley charging almost at idle speed. I have my idles set a little over 350 RPM's so at 450 they charge. This pulley's diameter is just about the OD of the fan mounting holes. I also had the other one done and gave it back to the son. The problem I had was I didn't like the looks of the GM alternator on my old Fords. So I got into a real project and built seven 6 volt alternators into the 2 brush generator shells. If I recall the 3 brush shells were a little to small in diameter to get the alternators I used into. I used a Nipendenso one. I didn't use the entire alternator I bought new parts from the electric shop using only the parts I needed. I ground a lot of the outer shell off and had to mill 4 slots down the entire length on the inside of the shell for the ears on the alternator shell. These ears in the generator shell slots keep the alternator from rotating. I used reverse polarity bridge rectifiers and a Tempco adjustable voltage regulator. All of the electronics are mounted to the inside of the rear brush cap with a plug to plug into the alternator. There is a small hole in the cap that I can go in with a small screw driver and adjust the maximum output voltage. I made 2 extra caps sand can replace them on the engine if ever had a problem but after a number years and a lot of miles no problems. I had to make shaft adaptors for the front of the alternator shaft through the front generator bearing with the front of the shaft to match the pulley. I also modified some brush holders because the ones for that alternator were part of the 12 volt NEG ground regulator. I spent more time building test equipment than building the alternators. I couldn't find the alt pictures in this computer will post pictures later. G.M.

Looked in my other computer and only found a few pictures??? Don't know where they went, haven't looked at them for a few years. here's the few I found.

[37 Coupe]

I think Ed Whitney uses a Kawasaki alternator but I may be wrong. I have one on my 37 Ford and have been using for 6 years now,6 volt positive ground. It is not really a kit but you send him the front and rear of the generator you have he supplies a newly machined aluminum tube.All said and done it looks like your original generator if that is what you want it to look like. I have always been told here on the barn that the pulley I supplied would be to big a diameter to charge,it is the standard diameter for 37 Ford 85 hp. I have always kept an eye open for the smaller 60 hp pulley but this has always kept battery charged.

[TJ]

Guys that try to use the "one wire" type alternator may have problems with the alternator failing to "excite". In a flathead the RPM does not get up high enough to make it self "excite". With a flathead you always use an "exciter" wire from a switched ignition source to have the alternator "excite" right at the time the motor starts.

[FlatheadTed]

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I use a diode on my stock 6v generator and it charges at idle one or two amps ,I wondered why the battery wasn't going flat with moving the car around the W shop .

[jon laing]

I keep calling Whitney's phone numbers but get no answer. Is he still in business? Jon Laing

[4dFord/SC]

Originally Posted by jon laing

I keep calling Whitney's phone numbers but get no answer. Is he still in business? Jon Laing

He still advertises in the V8 Times.I've had one of his units for 8+ years with no problems. Have never needed an exciter wire.

[TJ]

4dFord/SC, if you have the correct diameter pulley, the exciter wire may not be needed. I recommend the exciter wire as many do not know that the alternator has to reach a certain RPM before it self excites.

[BILL WZOREK]

TJ:

That sounds like a Girl I use to know in Highschool !!!!!!!! lol LoL lOl

No matter how you spell it >>> THAT'S FUNNY <<< ^ ^ ^

[4dFord/SC]

Originally Posted by TJ

4dFord/SC, if you have the correct diameter pulley, the exciter wire may not be needed. I recommend the exciter wire as many do not know that the alternator has to reach a certain RPM before it self excites.

Could be. It's slightly smaller than the original, but does the job. I think it may have to rev to 1800 or so to kick in, but a couple of gooses on the gas pedal take care of that.

[TJ]

Bill, I knew one like that too!

[Talkwrench]

TJ can you explain that "exciter" wire a bit more or have a diagram? I use a 3 wire but as said there is no charge at idle , the revs do need to come up for it to kick in. This is not so good when you have a thermo fan, as you can imagine it only comes on at idle in traffic..