8ba Cylinder sleeves

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by Unshined2

Rookie question here.... can a person pull the sleeves and resleeve them. Or do you just bore out until the sleeve is gone?? As an insurance policy could you pull the sleeves and inspect the block for major problems and resleeve. Or is it too cost prohibitive?

The 40-41-42 engines had steel, what we call tin can sleeves, They are .040 wall. You can press those sleeves out and press in new ones if you can find any. Engines with cast repair sleeves are usually 1/8 or 3/32 wall and are pressed in pretty hard. I have bored them out by boring them to an eag shell thick and peeled them out. If the wall checks out with a dial bore guage you should be able to press in a new repair sleeve. I usually put a little lock tite on the wall before pressing in new sleeve. I also leave a step on the bottom of the bore for the sleeve set on. Walt

[Unshined2]

I see, I did not realize this as I havent come across any 40-42 engines. Thank you for nicely explaining this to the inexperienced.....

[Finn Flatty]

Great excitement for this topic, fellows.
One possible trait could also be going back to standard size, as my machinist thinks he might be capable of drilling old sleeves away and I could acquire new sleeves. This would be a safe bet for sure. I'm also trying to get info of the possibility of sonic testing (I live in Finland).
Enclosed a snapshot of an EAB head, that Ol' Ron mentioned, I have a pair of these in my garage.

-Pasi

[Ol' Ron]

Straigtpipes
The best way to run a 2GC is to use the Merc intake and bore the carb intake ports out to match the 2GC carb. Major improvement in throttle response and top end. Use with converted GM dist and get economy as well.

[Straightpipes]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Straigtpipes
The best way to run a 2GC is to use the Merc intake and bore the carb intake ports out to match the 2GC carb. Major improvement in throttle response and top end. Use with converted GM dist and get economy as well.

Yes, I did bore the intake to match the carb. Also, I am running Bubba's Chebbie distributor. This is in my 35 coupe. Performance is equal or better than running dual carbs. I do like that L-100.

[chuck stevens]

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George, The last I knew, Phil- the 47 Mercury convertible guy, was planning a trip through NE pennsylvania next year. I will keep you posted on anything I hear. My 40 todor is slooowly coming together. I never set a completion date, it just doesn't work. Have a good Holiday, keep warm, Chuck S.

[~~Walts37~~]

I do not have any idea how sleeves work but my builder instead of just doing the bad cylinders that had been sitting in a pasture with water in a couple cylinders for 20 years decided to add sleeves to all 8 cylinders to help with any overheating. He purchased 2 sets of sleeves with pistons and rings from a ford tractor parts place as they were much cheaper and put all back to original. I think he had to go 20 over on the rod bearings. I have been using this engine with out any problems of overheating what so ever for the last 8 or 9 years. Except for coil, points, battery and a new starter spring. Still starts right up from standing on the floor. Does any of this make since or has my builder been blowing smoke? ( just curious)

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Unshined2

Rookie question here.... can a person pull the sleeves and resleeve them. Or do you just bore out until the sleeve is gone?? As an insurance policy could you pull the sleeves and inspect the block for major problems and resleeve. Or is it too cost prohibitive?

another rookie question....With all the horror stories of damage under the sleeve, has anyone ever just inserted a new sleeve into an old sleeve rather than risk damaging the block more.

[JSeery]

Can't insert a sleeve into a sleeve for many reasons. No reason that a block should be damaged removing a sleeve. As an example on 8N tractors the cylinders are sleeved. When you rebuild them you remove the existing sleeve and install a new sleeve. They are thin wall sleeves so it does take the proper equipment. On a thick wall sleeve, believe Walt answered with an approach.

[supereal]

Years ago it was a common practice to pull the sleeves when all bores were sleeved, and install larger pistons. Removing and replacing sleeves is not an amateur job, in any case. The factory did install sleeves to salvage an otherwise good block. At our shop, we usually find an engine with only one or two sleeves had a "sand hole" in the cylinder wall, or damage from a loose wrist pin. The job isn't cheap unless compared with finding a usable replacement block these days.