Starting the Pan Drop Adventure

[sethkestenbaum]

This evening I started the process of "dropping the pan" in my 1929 Phaeton. Step 1 - Drain Oil. Done. Now I am letting the car drip overnight. Tomorrow or Saturday the real fun will begin. Once the pan is off, I'm expecting to find 40 years of sludge.

I figured that I would post a few notes/links/photos to Fordbarn as I go --- PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE ADVICE/HINTS. I've got copies of the Les Andrews instructions and some past Fordbarn posts to help me along.

http://oldcarroadtrip.wordpress.com/...pping-the-pan/

Ahooga,
Seth

[Mike in NRN IN]

Nice blog.

Keep us posted and it looks like you got the 'enjoy' part right!

[MikeK]

Make sure you have an assistant to take pictures 'cause you certainly won't be handling the camera once you start that job!

[Mitch//pa]

clean out the valve cover area also

[foxfire42]

Perfect timing for this thread. I'll be tackling this same project in a few days. Thanks in advance for saving Seth and me time and no doubt mistakes I would make.

[Del in NE Ohio]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

turn the wheels all the way to the right or left and tie rod magically moves out of the way!

[Keith]

To remove the drip pan baffle inside the oil pan to clean under it place a large cardboard mat on the floor of the garage. Stand on a step ladder about 3 feet off the ground and let the pan fall straight down on the open end. The baffle will pop out and cleaning under it is simplified. To re-insert just line it up and press it in by hand. Remember do not forgot to put it back in.......

[sethkestenbaum]

This evening I lifted the car, removed the side pans, hand cleaned them, hand sanded them to clean/scuff, and started coating them with primer. I ran out of primer. Just this has taken me a few hours.

It was interesting.... the bolts used had cotter pins (which surprised me a little) and the ears used to connect the side pans to the oil pan bolts were all torn up. I also had to recruit a family member to help out as I couldn't reach both the top and bottom of the bolts and they were spinning.

I'm off to pick up some more rattle-can primer and some rattle-can black engine enamel. I'm hoping to get the primer done tonight and a the enamel tomorrow. If the combo looks good, that will be what I do for the bottom of the oil pan.

I also have to order the value cover gasket and the return pipe gaskets.

[roccaas]

The $5 full face shield at Harbor Freight is nice to have.

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by sethkestenbaum

This evening I lifted the car, removed the side pans, hand cleaned them, hand sanded them to clean/scuff, and started coating them with primer. I ran out of primer. Just this has taken me a few hours.

It was interesting.... the bolts used had cotter pins (which surprised me a little) and the ears used to connect the side pans to the oil pan bolts were all torn up. I also had to recruit a family member to help out as I couldn't reach both the top and bottom of the bolts and they were spinning.

I'm off to pick up some more rattle-can primer and some rattle-can black engine enamel. I'm hoping to get the primer done tonight and a the enamel tomorrow. If the combo looks good, that will be what I do for the bottom of the oil pan.

I also have to order the value cover gasket and the return pipe gaskets.

Seth,

Just curious,....what is the gas tank date and engine number?

Thanks, Dudley

[Duffy1]

Do not forget to support the oil pump before you drop the pan . Do a search and you will find instruction for doing this . Once you have the pan off before you do anything else I suggest sieve through the oil on the bottom of the pan and see if you have any pieces of babbitt in the oil.

[sethkestenbaum]

I've updated to blog.... http://oldcarroadtrip.wordpress.com/ . It includes some photos from my removal of the side pans.

Dudley, the tank date is 4/5/29. I'm a little hesitant to share the engine number, but it is in the 1,3XX,XXX range. The car also has a three-brush powerhouse which I believe is consistent with early 29s.

[Art Bjornestad]

For an easy way to put the pan back, Cut the heads off a few longer bolts and screw them into the block. The oil pan and your new gasket will be guided into the correct location and the gasket will also be lined up.

[d.j. moordigian]

Thanks Seth,

I was curious because of the bolts / nuts / cotter pins, for the engine pans
set-up. I was thinking that was for a much early car.

[sethkestenbaum]

A while back someone posted a photo/instructions for how to get the oil pan seals set up and prepped for the pan. I've spent a few hours searching fordbarn, but haven't been able to find it. Does anyone have the link or could the poster repost? Thanks

[Smurkey]

You will probably want to remove the oil pump screen and give it a rinse in some kerosene/check for gunk clogging it too.

Steve

[1crosscut]

I would suggest using a fuel proof paint for the splash pans. At least the one on the passenger side under the carb.

[sethkestenbaum]

The PAN IS DROPPED!

A few interesting things that made my life easier and then a few questions:

1) Fearful of the pan getting dropped/bent, I took a big piece of packaging foam, put it on a small jack, and supported the pan with the jack once I only had a few bolts remaining. This enabled me to SLOWLY lower the pan and not bend the edges of it. I didn't support the pump (as Duffy suggested), but by using the jack method I was able to reach in and take it out by hand without the pump falling into the pan. This was a "happy benefit".

2) Del in NE Ohio's suggestion to turn the wheel to help get the tie rod out of the way was very helpful. I wasn't able to get the front few bolts until I did this.

3) Roccaas's suggestion for the face guard inspired me to use an old set of safety glasses... This was great.

4) The pan and pump are now in plastic bags waiting for me to do more. I get to do some tomorrow and much next week.

A few questions:

1) The oil pan was held in place by some bolts with washers and locking nuts and some bolts with only locking nuts or only washers. What is correct?

2) What solvents should one use when cleaning the bearings to check for clearance?

3) What solvents should one use when cleaning the valve chamber?

4) How should I "protect" the open underside of the car over the week while I am not around the car?

Thanks --- I'll shoot some images and post them probably tomorrow. - Seth

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you are inside the garage, the open bottom should be fine. No dust or insects should get to it.

I use gas for cleaning parts. If you have a lot of sludge then I use a narrow putty knife to remove most of the junk first.

The pan should just have bolts and lock washers all around. Some people have added flat washers to better support the side pan tabs.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Seth, Dog here, we proud of you, Buddy! Idea: Buy you a small pet MONKEY to hold nuts for you, THEY GOT THUMBS! Buster T.