cooling system

[30 A Ripper]

Never had an unpressurized cooling system before. Always had a temp gage & overflow can.

Fellow who sold car said steam out cap is usually overfilling radiator....

Radiator cap seems to be a loose fit and has an internal tube projecting above the last core piece & going to the frame level. Guessing some kind of overflow.

I've been starting and running it about 5-6 minutes daily as I work on various stuff and experienced no steam.

Can't drive until insurance obtained, so (2) 10-15 minutes test run during purchase. First had some steam at his house and second none at my subdivision.

Not sure how to proceed as really can;t tell where water level is inside the radiator.

Help is appreciated,
Dick

[Jordan]

steam means the temp is getting above 212* & is overheating.

[700rpm]

You should be able to see water in the upper tank when you remove the cap. Fill it up, but not all the way to the top. The water will find its own level as you drive. But if you're steaming, you've got a problem somewhere in the cooling system.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Late timing will quickly make steam. Be sure the timing is set correctly. When the timing pin drops into the dimple in the cam gear the rotor should be positioned exactly as shown. Loosen the screw under the rotor to change the rotor location, but be sure all the freeplay in the rotor is in the CCW position.

[Mike V. Florida]

Along with timing (my #1 thought) a clogged radiator will also cause steam.

[txturbo]

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Easy way to check the radiator is to place you hand on the center of the core. If it's hot the radiator is ok....if it's cold it's clogged. Then you can move your hand outward toward the edges until you feel it getting hot. That will tell you how much of it is clogged. Radiators tend to clog up in the center first and then work their way toward the edges.

[30 A Ripper]

thanks for all the thoughts. I think my approach will be:
1. check and fill to see water in upper tank (thinking if seller not advanced enough & caused steam).2.feel radiator for cold spots & increase to 10-15minute daily startup& do rad center test.(seller said rad was rodded).3.Will check timing after ensuring spark rod operating fully & correctly.
Dick

[Mitch//pa]

actually you want your water level approx at the same height as the baffle in the upper tank. more than that it will push out the overflow.
along with all the good advice and things to check from the boys another test is a hydro carbon tester or a leak down

[txturbo]

Sounds like a good plan....report back after doing the things on the list and we can go from there

[30 A Ripper]

guess I'm not sure how that horizontal pin "drops" into the dimple. am I somehow pushing on it while rocking the car in third gear ( I don't have a hand crank tool and have been warned about the weak water pump shaft).

pardon my ignorance but could you expand on "be sure all the freeplay in the rotor is in the CCW position". Am I rotating the rotor CW, holding it tight against whatever stop and then tightening something down. Now I know I'm confused..
Thanks, Dick

[Bob C]

You may want to check out the timing instructions on Marco's site, they are the best.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

Bob

[700rpm]

You need to get a crank. An absolutely essential tool, and they're cheap and plentiful.

[TDO]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Late timing will quickly make steam. Be sure the timing is set correctly. When the timing pin drops into the dimple in the cam gear the rotor should be positioned exactly as shown. Loosen the screw under the rotor to change the rotor location, but be sure all the freeplay in the rotor is in the CCW position.

What kind of dist. am I looking at. I don't recall seeing a rotor button like that. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by TDO

What kind of dist. am I looking at. I don't recall seeing a rotor button like that. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong.

It's an original stock distributor, but I balance my rotors by removing some excess plastic and adding a couple screws and nuts on the light side. A balanced rotor makes for longer bushing life and more even points opening.

[Rock Hornbuckle]

Keep in mind that 80 degree water will show vapor on a cold day. Be certain that it is steam, and not just vapor.

[30 A Ripper]

Sorry if this is a dupe cause I just lost what I typed <G>

Demo ride for son and grandson was not good last nite. Started easily but ran rough at spark lever position at 9 and radiator belched a large amount after maybe 5-600 feet. Then leaked as went worriedly around block and home...

My findings today before and after a 10 minute idle:
Change from several weeks ago; #1 Plug gap still @ .035 but now heavy with what appeared to be carbon, but timing right on per Toms photo with rotor trailing edge just at #1 cap position & TDC. Rotor and point gap not rechecked. Filled radiator to 1/4" over baffle.

Started easily. Maybe imagined it ran not quite so rough at idle. Exhaust leak at #1 position of manifold is on my to-do list.

Radiator was warm to touch everywhere except bottom center.

Made a 20 second sound bite and would upload if I knew how. Clear is the exhaust leak at #1 on manifold but am unsure what aa "A" should sound like.

I would like to get engine running better before embarking on a radiator expense. If necessary right now, I could pull the exhaust manifold and install a new gasket and/or mess with carb idle & GAV again (but hopefully not have to rebuild right now).

Thanks,
Dick
Lakeland Florida

As a sidenote, looks like I didn't catch the oil burning before buying and wife kicked me from garage<G>.

[DUNN1929]

A Ripper,

The sound bite is good but video is better. You might want to video the whole thing while it's running and upload it to youtube. Then add a link here to have the barners help you diagnose the problems. If this sounds overwhelming to you I'm sure your son or grandson could help with the upload.
I know it is frustrating not having the answers, but if the barners could see and hear things I'm sure they could help you find a solution very quickly.

Just my opinion.

[30 A Ripper]

I'll look into it

[TerryH]

You have not mentioned the GAV control inside the car, under the gas tank on the right side. Most Model A's like that set about 1/4 turn open when driving the car...open more to start and warmup. If it is too closed could also cause the car to run hotter...too lean. A lot of Model A radiators end up being partially clogged due to several factors. Once I had mine carefully rodded it never ran hot again. A Model A with a clean, adequate radiator, and properly tuned does not run hot, even in the summer going up hills.

[30 A Ripper]

seller assured me radiator was rodded. I now doubt it was a good job from the hand placement check for heat. Ie bottom center not warm/hot.

would like to get running better before getting into the rad.

#1 plug was sooty indicating rich mixture so I'll try Gav adjustment. somewhere I have a step by step procedure.

Thanks for info and motivation, Dick Lakeland Florida