removing manual fuel pump going to electric

[wildturkey46]

If I remove the manual fuel pump, use a block off plate, install an electric pump, is there anything else I need to do? Someone told me once I need to plug a hole in the bottom of the pump location. Is that right? He said I woul loose oil pressure if I did not plug the hole. If I do not do this I must keep the manual pump and run an electric also in tandem. Comments?
Thanks........Dale

[Mart]

What year or type is your engine? I believe it makes a difference if it is 8ba or pre 8ba.

Mart.

[wildturkey46]

It is an 8ba

[19Fordy]

On my 8BA I removed the push rod and DID NOT plug the push rod bushing hole when I installed my electric fuel pump. The oil pressure was not affected at all. You do not have to plug the bushing on an 8BA. The only other thing you should do is install a oil pressure senstive pressure switch that will automatically shut of the electric fuel pump when the engine oil pressure drops should the car be invoveld in an accident. A "SEARCH" will reveal tons of info. Lots of folks also run an electric pump to "prime" their mechanical pump.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

If you do put in an oil pressure switch to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stops, how do you get it started again with no oil pressure in the system until the engine is running? The switch will not let the electric pump turn on again.

[bobscogin]

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Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

If you do put in an oil pressure switch to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stops, how do you get it started again with no oil pressure in the system until the engine is running? The switch will not let the electric pump turn on again.

I installed a momentary push button switch circuit to power the pump in order to prime the carb. An option is a special switch that has 2 sets of contacts. A normally closed contact that feeds power from the starter solenoid through the switch so the pump runs during cranking, and a normally open set that kills the pump at oil pressure loss. I prefer the momentary switch that lets me fill the carb bowl.

Bob

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

If you do put in an oil pressure switch to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stops, how do you get it started again with no oil pressure in the system until the engine is running? The switch will not let the electric pump turn on again.

Perhaps I didn't do a very good job of explaining the pressure switch. This will really answer the question.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=549126

[40cpe]

Isn't there a switch that interrupts power to the pump when it senses an impact or upset? Pro and con of each?

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Isn't there a switch that interrupts power to the pump when it senses an impact or upset? Pro and con of each?

Most fuel injected cars and trucks, at least Fords, have inertia switches that cut power to the fuel pump upon vehicle impact of about one "G". IMO, these are easier/simpler and possibly cheaper to install versus an oil pressure cut off switch.

[bobscogin]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Isn't there a switch that interrupts power to the pump when it senses an impact or upset? Pro and con of each?

Ford uses an "impact" switch to shut off the pump. It's a metal ball that sit's in a funnel shaped piece and bridges contacts to create continuity. If the vehicle gets impacted, or overturns, the ball gets knocked out of the funnel, interrupting the circuit. They work, but in my opinion it's the type of switch that is best used in the vehicle for which they're engineered. They're sensitive to ride and handling dynamics, and location in the vehicle, so may not always be compatible with those same dynamics in older vehicles.

Bob

[oldford2]

Oh Boy, this is getting complicated! You never said why you wanted to remove the manual pump. Many of us have installed an electric pump to fill the system and have it on a switch controlled at the dash. If you just get a new alcohol proof manual pump you will be good to go. Call Kenct for one

Then maybe add an electric pump for backup with a manual switch.
John

[Roadie]

I recently emptied the sediment bowl to clean out some sediment and tried to re install it using the old (cork) gasket (8BA).

The pump would not pull fuel from the tank. I'm thinking that the seal is not tight.

After putting a vacuum tester on the line from the pump to the carb I found that it would not generate a vacuum. I then put a low pressure air hose to the inlet side of the pump and could feel air coming out from the sediment bowl so it's obvious that it is not sealed. I ordered some seals from Macs, both cork and neoprene. Also ordered a new screen which should arrive next week.

I find it very difficult to try and install the sediment bowl with the seal without cocking the seal off center before securing the clamp. Problem is, there's not enough room to see or insure that the seal is centered because the oil filter is in the way. Also, how do you get the screen into the mix without it fumbling around? Would it be better to just remove the fuel pump and install the bowl on the bench where I could be sure to get a good seal? If I need to remove the fuel pump, which way is easier to remove and re install? Is it better to remove the pump stand from the engine block, or just the pump from the stand (where the rear bolt is damn near impossible to access)? How about re installing?

Any ideas?

Thanks for all your great info

[FlatheadTed]

The gasket / seal should be a tight fit ,and glued in so you can fit the rear bolt and filter in with bowl removed ,

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by wildturkey46

It is an 8ba

How about for a 21 stud 37 engine?

[Ralph Moore]

Originally Posted by oldford2

Oh Boy, this is getting complicated! You never said why you wanted to remove the manual pump. Many of us have installed an electric pump to fill the system and have it on a switch controlled at the dash. If you just get a new alcohol proof manual pump you will be good to go. Call Kenct for one

Then maybe add an electric pump for backup with a manual switch.
John

I like the addition of a real filter in the bowl. Is that one of Ken's modifications?

[oldford2]

Yup,
That's how Ken sends them out. A very neat arrangement and fits perfectly. That hole in the filter just fits your pump. Just go to Car quest or NAPA (3039) and a spring at your real hardware store.


A neat, low cost setup
John

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by oldford2

Oh Boy, this is getting complicated! You never said why you wanted to remove the manual pump. Many of us have installed an electric pump to fill the system and have it on a switch controlled at the dash.

I agree. I figure two pumps are better than one so there is always a backup if one fails. I do just as oldfor2 said, use my mechanical pump most of the time except when it's vapor locked, then I turn the electric on momentarily to "prime" it and then back off. Always have a backup.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by oldford2

Yup,
That's how Ken sends them out. A very neat arrangement and fits perfectly. That hole in the filter just fits your pump. Just go to Car quest or NAPA (3039) and a spring at your real hardware store.

Here's the filter from C&G: https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...=142&t=1004&tn=

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Here's the filter from C&G: https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlv...142&t=1004&tn=

The hole in the filter is slightly small,scrape it out a little with a pen knife or make some slits inthe edge of the hole with a razor blade so you can push it over the nub on the pump. ken ct.

[41Fordor]

Can the glass bowl pump be used in place of the metal bowl fuel pump? Is one more prone to vapor locking? I carry a spare metal bowl pump, but even after sitting for two hours and swapping pumps, mine still wouldn't start.

I did a search and am installing an electric pump on the frame rail near the tank with a manual switch; and a relay so it can only be energized when ignition switch is turned on. I figure it will only be used for priming and emergencies.