Gee Whizz...A New 'Barner

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Over on the Hamb there is a member Fortunateson from British Columbia and IIRC he is just getting into flatheads.



For all things hydraulic brakes get in touch with the Early V8 Garage
http://www.earlyv8garage.net/
Call: (626) 338-2282
1217 N. Azusa Canyon Road,
West Covina, CA 91790-1004

Contact VanPelt Sales, LLC for transmisssion parts and a wealth of flathead info on their web site.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/
1081 B, OH-28 B, Day Heights, OH 45150
(513) 724-9487

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"Fortunateson" is also a member right here on the Ford Barn.
Look for the "Search" in the black band, at the top of this page,
click on Search and a menu will drop down, then click on "Advance Search"
then type in "Fortunateson" and then get ahold of him.



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[Gee Whizz]

...so, spent some meaningful time in the shop on the Coupe today. I was preparing the car for the hydraulic brake upgrade - doing stuff I can do myself and WD40 everything I can see to prep it for the mechanic. I was also on the hunt for some casting number which I found along with a tag from an engine rebuilder in Saskatoon Saskatchewan where the car was originally from. On the tag is says; General Automotive Supply Co. Saskatoon Saskatchewan (will check if these guys are still around), Cylinder Rebore; .060, Mains; 020 and Rods; 010. I also found some casting numbers on the top right side back of the block, looks like "B" "0" "B" and a bit further to the left "7"? Gonna have to research these numbers! I have yet to find any disappointing issues or, issues that I'm not able to manage at least - so far so good!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Gee Whizz

...so, spent some meaningful time in the shop on the Coupe today. I was preparing the car for the hydraulic brake upgrade - doing stuff I can do myself and WD40 everything I can see to prep it for the mechanic. I was also on the hunt for some casting number which I found along with a tag from an engine rebuilder in Saskatoon Saskatchewan where the car was originally from. On the tag is says; General Automotive Supply Co. Saskatoon Saskatchewan (will check if these guys are still around), Cylinder Rebore; .060, Mains; 020 and Rods; 010. I also found some casting numbers on the top right side back of the block, looks like "B" "0" "B" and a bit further to the left "7"? Gonna have to research these numbers! I have yet to find any disappointing issues or, issues that I'm not able to manage at least - so far so good!

Hey Glenn .....It's good to see that you've managed to push your posts over to the north side of ten. I suppose that puts you fully right in the middle of this mess with the rest of us.

The majority of those cast-in numbers on blocks do not hold any significance that anyone still alive is aware of, except "59" maybe.

It is interesting to find one of those rebuild tags on an engine. At least it gives you some idea of exactly what the engine is, and also lets you know that it has been rebuilt at some time during the total mileage of the car.

If you are serious about changing over to hydraulic brakes, some of us sure would like to hear your plans, as well as a relatively detailed plan on the parts that you intend to use. There are so many avenues available today that were NOT around back in the day of using junkyard parts for brakes, and quite a few of us have been well through this hydraulic brake converting. I'm sure that several of us would love to share advice and tips....just some things that we have learned the hard way maybe, that work well, or don't work well during these upgrades or conversions. You are going to find a few folks that recommend you contacting & purchasing from a particular V8 Ford brake specialist, and quite honestly, his product and engineering are top-shelf, but his products are not meant for those with empty wallet. Just suggesting for YOUR sake that it may be a good idea to run some of your ideas with some of the troops here. Also be forewarned that 99.7% of those "Super Brake" type of specialty brake stores have no clue about the functioning of old Ford Lockheed-type brakes, especially when you figure-in the 25 year-old snot-nosed kids in the back whanging-away on your pride and joy with a 12 lb. hammer. NONE of them are equipped to turn a rear brake drum any more. NONE of them know where to obtain the only replacement drums worth purchasing. NONE of them have a clue as to how to PROPERLY separate a drum from a hub. And if you plan on retaining your 'wide-five' wheels, hydraulic brakes for you is a do-able deal, but it will take some very specialized knowledge to put together a workable package. Surely that kid-mechanic in the WalMart garage, or that little shop on the corner, ain't the guy!

Again, welcome to FordBarn! DD
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[pistonbroke]

Gee Whizz, If you ever get as far south as Olympia Give me a shout. Love your ride. Tim

[big job]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Truck clearance lights?

International cab clearance lights Have them on my model T

[Gee Whizz]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Update on my search for Rumble seat parts, I've located a nice regulator with the glass channel and Rumble seat hinges so, I'm of on a flying start. I'm going to concentrate on getting the rear window worked out for now so, the biggest challenge is locating the panel that holds the regulator. If anyone know where I might find one, DM me - thanks, Glenn

[Fortunateson]

Hey! I’m on here as well...

[jhswolf]

Welcome to the Barn! That is a very beautiful car! Good luck with it.
I started out here last year. Having been a Brand X'r for so long, I too am new to the flathead scene. The folks here are so willing to help a newby like me. You've come to the right place.
John

[Fortunateson]

So I went over to Glenn’s place today to check out his car and to lend a hand. The car is indeed in very good shape. Glenn is very excited about this project. I took my brake drum puller over and as soon as he saw it and I saw the wheels I realized that I forgot that he had wide fives.

I was checking out the engine and after hearing he was considering ordering some retro heads from H&H. I told him I thought his heads were aluminum but he said that he thought they were just painted... I asked if he had a magnet and he got one and we tested the heads. At first Glenn wasn’t believing but I placed the magnet further away from the studs, nuts, and generator. I was right and now he’s saving about $1100 US! He is very happy. Says he’s looking for and Offy hi-rise 2x2. Here are some pics....

Well I can’t seem to get the pics to load but will try again later...

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

I was checking out the engine and after hearing he was considering ordering some retro heads from H&H. I told him thought his heads were aluminum but he said that he thought they were just painted... I asked if he had a magnet and he got one and we tested the heads. At first Glenn wasn’t believing but I placed the magnet further away from the studs, nuts, and generator. I was right and now he’s saving about $1100 US! He is very happy. Says he’s looking for and Offy hi-rise 2x2. Here are some pics....

Well I can’t seem to get the pics to load but will try again later...

Fortunateson .....If you'll e-mail those pictures to me at the e-mail address BELOW, I'll post 'em in this thread. DD

[email protected]

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[Fortunateson]

Here they are...

[Gee Whizz]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Well, that ain't too hard to do. The tires are 5.50 R16 Excelsior Stahl radials on 1940 4" wheels on front, and 7.50 R16 Excelsior Stahl radials on '42-'48 Ford 4-1/2" wide wheels. I think 7.00 R16s on the back would be perfect if it were to happen again. DD

Might you know or be able to find out what those wheels were originally off or where I might locate new vintage-style 16" steelies without contemporary holes, slots etc. I'd like to run 16 inch rims with 5X5.5 drums - seems that's the most likely scenario going down when I do my hydraulic conversion - can't find NOS 5 Wide drums at the moment and I speculate they will be pricy! Thank you.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Gee Whizz

Might you know or be able to find out what those wheels were originally off or where I might locate new vintage-style 16" steelies without contemporary holes, slots etc. I'd like to run 16 inch rims with 5X5.5 drums - seems that's the most likely scenario going down when I do my hydraulic conversion - can't find NOS 5 Wide drums at the moment and I speculate they will be pricy! Thank you.

Glenn .....Those pictured wheels are original Ford 16" X 4" wheels. The fronts, with 5.50-R16 are 4"-wide, 1940-'41 Ford passenger car wheels.

The rears with 7.50-R16 are also original Ford, 16" X 4-1/2" wide, 1942-'48 Ford passenger car wheels. I actually believe that 7.00-R16 tire size would look a little better than the 7.50s seen here on Heard's '36.

Below is a picture of the SAME wheel with the 7.50-R16 mounted on the '36 3-window. Even the 7.50 is NOT too wide for the 4-1/2"-wide Ford wheel.




NOBODY is reproducing "wide five" brake drums. Chances are that you will never find '37-'39 bolt-on NOS drums, which bolt-on to the hubs. '36 wide-5 drums/hubs are one piece. It also makes a difference (IN FRONT) whether you have '35 or '36 spindles. Remember that I said earlier that doing the hydraulics on your car is DO-ABLE, but '35-'36 front brake drum/hubs/spindles are weird, and might be difficult/expensive to come-up with DO-ABLE parts. Staying with the 5 X 5.5 drums/hubs is a very smart idea.

You can likely find nice (non-rusty) stock Ford wheels at "The Early Ford Parts Store" in San Dimas, Ca. They have extensive quality used parts available.... Link BELOW!


https://www.earlyfordstore.com/

The ONLY reasonable 5 X 5.5 brake drums/hubs are those made by "Boling Brothers". One of our members here on FordBarn (Krylon32) is a dealer for Boling Bros., and offers a 10% discount for FordBarn members. Click on the Boling Bros. link BELOW. Read this site carefully...lots of diverse options. READ the entire list at left side of the site. 5 X 5.5 hubs begin with year 1940 pieces. THESE brakes are the much-more desirable "Bendix Self-Energizing" design....far more effective than the Ford Lockheed brakes.

https://www.bolingbrothers.com/brake-kits-1937-1948/

I am willing to help you with advice and any details if you like!

Dick D (DD)

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[Fortunateson]

Hey Glenn, I have 5 ‘35 wire wheels but unfortunately they’ll be going on my ‘32...

[Gee Whizz]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

Here they are...

Thanks for posting those pics! Received an e-mail from Richard at Early V8 Garage today to let me know my Hydraulic Conversion Kit is in the fabrication schedule and could be shipped by end of Feb - that's great news! Going to chat with Wicked Customs tomorrow - they'll be doing the hydraulic brakes for me. I'm now into the process now of converting to 12V and replacing a bunch of sketchy wiring, the dimmer switch, brake light switch and starter switch. All the switches work but, all the connections are very sketchy and the wiring is all wrapped with black electrical tape, several mystery wires hanging in the air, think I'll replace a lot of it as I go through the process of getting to know and building trust in this new relationship!

[Gee Whizz]

Thank you for the information. I did speak with Richard at Early V8 and you are right, I couldn't find any wide five drums, mine are 37-38 drums and are in great shape but, I've decided to go with 5X5.5X16 rear and 5X5.5X15 (if I can find them) in the front. Richard has already been able to determine that the running front suspension and running gear are all 37-38 including the steering box so, this little Coupe was well on it's way to Hotrod status when I bought it. So, it seems all the early upgrades were improvements so, overall, I'm pleased with the car. Now just to get the hydraulics and 12V upgrades done so I might be able to enjoy the car this summer!