Head Re-Torquing

[Bruce of MN]

I have torqued my head nuts, using the proper sequence, but didn't have the distributor in place, so that the armored cable clamp is not now under the nut.

Do I need to untorque the nuts in the sequence, put on the clamp, then re-do it or is there a smart short cut?

[1931 flamingo]

I would think if you drained the water level down, undo that particular nut, install clamp, retorque, run to get hot and retorque ALL you would be good to go. JMO
Paul in CT

[Special Coupe Frank]

If you have not filled the cooling system and run the engine yet, then you should be able to back-track through the sequence from #14 back to #8, install the cable-clamp, then re-tighten # 8 thru #14.

Does your engine have one of the thick cast clamps or the thin sheetmetal strap-clamp ? If it has one of the thick clamps, you definitely need to get something under that nut, as there is usually not enough fine threads on the stud to adequately tighten that nut ( it runs out of thread before sufficiently clamping the head down ).

If you've already filled and run the engine, then you'll at least have to drain the cooling system, then proceed as above...

Good luck !

[Kurt in NJ]

When the car was new and the popout was being replaced the nut would be removed, the popout replaced ,the coolant would not be drained, the nut would be tightened "good and tight", most of the Mechanics would not know what a torque wrench was let alone own one ,---even in the 70s i was laughed at for looking up torque specs and using a torque wrench to assemble an engine when the other workers were using an impact gun.

Replacing the popout paid 1.3 hour, replacing the headgasket paid 0.7 hour, rebuilding the engine including babbitting the mains paid 20 hours ---that even included taking it out of the car!!

Lowering the coolant lecel below the headgasket is prudent, just removing the 1 nut, torquing the 1 nut , then retorque all after running .

I work "flat rate" --but on Mercedes Benz, most jobs can be done properly in the flat rate time, many other cars have flat rate times that require "cheating".

[Barry B./ Ma.]

Very good Kurt. That's what I would do to. I've removed that nut many times with coolant in and never lost a drop then retorqued that individual nut.

[Chris in CT]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

No, just torque the subject nut.

[Mitch//pa]

(QUOTE)I work "flat rate" --but on Mercedes Benz, most jobs can be done properly in the flat rate time, many other cars have flat rate times that require "cheating".[/QUOTE]


i don't drain them either and never had a problem leaking coolant. i worked flat rate for 15 years for ford and always had to cheat to feed my family. i guess with mercedes prices and labor rate your good to go but i know you still cheat some. lol

[Bruce of MN]

Thanks to all. I believe I'll just remove the one nut and retorque. The motor hasn't been filled or run yet.

[Special Coupe Frank]

If the motor is dry, you should be okay.

Good luck !