The Ford Barn

steve-cook · 10-08-2011, 06:31 AM

I have pulled the hub/Brake drum using the correct puller off my 1940 ford in the past it took some effort but felt correct.

I just pulled them off my 38 let me start by saying the hub nuts did not feel very tight, when I pulled the hub off with the correct puller it did not even require a wrench turned the wrenching flats of the puller with my hand on both sides.

Also the hub/drum on one side seperated after being pulled off it appears to have had some "work" done on the wheel studs with welds done to hold them in place, it does not appear that the hub/drum on this side will ever stay together as one unit.

I guess what I am asking is the seperated hub/drum one any good with it not being able to stay together as a unit and what should I look for to ensure the other is good.

richard crow · 10-08-2011, 08:16 AM

what proulbey happned was some one changed the hub or studs. when they did this they pushed the studs out side to in side .this is the wrong way as the studs are sweged on .if the drum is to be used or a new one used the studs are pushed from the inside & then swedged. when replacing the hub & you want to use the drum again you have to cut the back of the studs & push from inside out . use a die grinder or center punch & drill about a 1/4 " then drive with a drift.by pushing the studs the wrong way you inlarge the holes in the drum & even swegeing the new studs wount hold the drum tight. as far as the hub coming of so ez. when you tighen the axle nut use recomened torque .drive car a few miles & retorque.just look at the axle thread & nut thread to be sure it can take the recomened torque

steve-cook · 10-08-2011, 09:03 AM

I believe you may be correct on how they were removed richard crow, after looking closer it appears that maybe the holes were drilled to easily fit the new studs then the new studs were welded into place.

I am considering replacing the hubs and drums any suggestions on where to buy them a quick search online I found this place but seems pricey maybe I am just cheap.

http://www.thompsonsgarage.com/home/home.html

Russ/40 · 10-08-2011, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richard crow

what proulbey happned was some one changed the hub or studs. when they did this they pushed the studs out side to in side .this is the wrong way as the studs are sweged on .if the drum is to be used or a new one used the studs are pushed from the inside & then swedged. when replacing the hub & you want to use the drum again you have to cut the back of the studs & push from inside out . use a die grinder or center punch & drill about a 1/4 " then drive with a drift.by pushing the studs the wrong way you inlarge the holes in the drum & even swegeing the new studs wount hold the drum tight. as far as the hub coming of so ez. when you tighen the axle nut use recomened torque .drive car a few miles & retorque.just look at the axle thread & nut thread to be sure it can take the recomened torque

I read your removal technique with interest. The published technique is to cut the swedge out from the outside for stud removal. Your technique, although a bit labor intensive, does not require any special tooling other than a drill bit. Very clever! I presume you are able to press the stud out without any distortion of the drum?

PeteVS · 10-08-2011, 02:44 PM

I used a pair of "Made in USA" new drums on a '48 rear (using a pair of '40 hubs.) The hubs had to be drilled to accept new (longer) studs. Yes- the drums were pricey, but they're beautiful and can be turned more than "Ford" drums. Also, the NEW drums do not have to be swedged meaning that drums are easily removed for routine brake work or inspections. Seems like that would take care of all your stud/weiding/drum issues. I highly recommend them. (Got mine from Richard Lacy, Early V8 Garage.)

As far as your hubs just about falling off, I'd recommend that you use valve grinding compound to lap the hubs onto the axles, being sure to keep any of the compound out of the wheel bearing area. Then, clean them meticulously and tighten them very, very tight.

PeteVS · 10-08-2011, 07:14 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Steve PM'd me asking if one can lap hubs onto the axles with the axles still in the rear. Does anyone have experience doing this?

10-08-2011, 06:31 AM	#1
steve-cook Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Garner, NC Posts: 87	Hub/Brake Drum seperated on removal I have pulled the hub/Brake drum using the correct puller off my 1940 ford in the past it took some effort but felt correct. I just pulled them off my 38 let me start by saying the hub nuts did not feel very tight, when I pulled the hub off with the correct puller it did not even require a wrench turned the wrenching flats of the puller with my hand on both sides. Also the hub/drum on one side seperated after being pulled off it appears to have had some "work" done on the wheel studs with welds done to hold them in place, it does not appear that the hub/drum on this side will ever stay together as one unit. I guess what I am asking is the seperated hub/drum one any good with it not being able to stay together as a unit and what should I look for to ensure the other is good.

10-08-2011, 08:16 AM	#2
richard crow Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,770	Re: Hub/Brake Drum seperated on removal what proulbey happned was some one changed the hub or studs. when they did this they pushed the studs out side to in side .this is the wrong way as the studs are sweged on .if the drum is to be used or a new one used the studs are pushed from the inside & then swedged. when replacing the hub & you want to use the drum again you have to cut the back of the studs & push from inside out . use a die grinder or center punch & drill about a 1/4 " then drive with a drift.by pushing the studs the wrong way you inlarge the holes in the drum & even swegeing the new studs wount hold the drum tight. as far as the hub coming of so ez. when you tighen the axle nut use recomened torque .drive car a few miles & retorque.just look at the axle thread & nut thread to be sure it can take the recomened torque

10-08-2011, 09:03 AM	#3
steve-cook Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Garner, NC Posts: 87	Re: Hub/Brake Drum seperated on removal I believe you may be correct on how they were removed richard crow, after looking closer it appears that maybe the holes were drilled to easily fit the new studs then the new studs were welded into place. I am considering replacing the hubs and drums any suggestions on where to buy them a quick search online I found this place but seems pricey maybe I am just cheap. http://www.thompsonsgarage.com/home/home.html

10-08-2011, 02:44 PM	#5
PeteVS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: FP, NJ Posts: 2,770	Re: Hub/Brake Drum seperated on removal I used a pair of "Made in USA" new drums on a '48 rear (using a pair of '40 hubs.) The hubs had to be drilled to accept new (longer) studs. Yes- the drums were pricey, but they're beautiful and can be turned more than "Ford" drums. Also, the NEW drums do not have to be swedged meaning that drums are easily removed for routine brake work or inspections. Seems like that would take care of all your stud/weiding/drum issues. I highly recommend them. (Got mine from Richard Lacy, Early V8 Garage.) As far as your hubs just about falling off, I'd recommend that you use valve grinding compound to lap the hubs onto the axles, being sure to keep any of the compound out of the wheel bearing area. Then, clean them meticulously and tighten them very, very tight. __________________ Don't never get rid of nuthin!

10-08-2011, 07:14 PM	#6
PeteVS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: FP, NJ Posts: 2,770	Re: Hub/Brake Drum seperated on removal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Steve PM'd me asking if one can lap hubs onto the axles with the axles still in the rear. Does anyone have experience doing this? __________________ Don't never get rid of nuthin!