Loose hub?

[vern hodgson]

Removed the wheel to work on brakes. One axel shaft, with the roller bearing in place can be moved bout a quarter inch up and down, is this a serious problem and how is it fixed? 29 special coupe.

[Mike V. Florida]

Front or rear?

[vern hodgson]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Front or rear?

Rear, passenger

[Dollar Bill]

As you referenced "axle shaft" am assuming you are referring to rear end. Quarter inch is too much - Time for R&R to determine if it's bearing, race or axle that is worn.

[Charlie Stephens]

I am still not sure what you are looking at? Do you mean that the rear axle sticking out of the rear end housing can be moved? Maybe a picture? If this is what you are looking at it may not be a problem. I don't understand what you mean about the roller bearing being in place.

Charlie Stephens

[Mike V. Florida]

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The axle in the rear will move in the axle housing with the wheel and hub removed.
With the hub installed on the axle with the axle key and nut in place there should be no movement of the axle/hub assembly.

[Jacksonlll]

It's a floating axle design. All the axle does is turn the wheel, and hang onto it. That's why it lasts so long. No vertical load on it.

[john charlton]

Technically it is a 3/4 floating axle . The axle shaft apart from transmitting drive also stops the wheel/hub exiting the rear end . Fully floating like my 1942 WW2 Ford Jeep the hub is supported by taper roller bearings and all the axle shaft does is transmits drive only .

John in lovely weather Suffolk County England .

[captndan]

Exactly what my 31 is doing. I'm ordering the axel repair kit. Hope that works.

[vern hodgson]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

It's a floating axle design. All the axle does is turn the wheel, and hang onto it. That's why it lasts so long. No vertical load on it.

No photo avail. Looking at berts catalog 2015, pg.6, item a1225s. The description says worn axle housing will affect the brake operation. As the hub rotates the bearing would always be loaded to the top, seem if there were play (vertical) in the axle housing to roller bearing the wheel would move about the axle in a concentric pattern as opposed to a circular pattern. I have not removed the hub as yet (no puller) but in grasping the axle I can move the hub and roller bearing up and down, so looking at berts catalog, it seems that the part 1224 is what I need. If so, can this be done on the car or must the rear end be removed? Any one have experience with this? I have not found a good diagram of how this all goes together. Hope this explains all this

[vern hodgson]

Also, the drum on the driver side, is separated from the plate??? That carries the lug nut studs. So the drum sans lug nuts and the lug nut plate are two items, when you install the rim that then holds both pieces together, what is going on here? Sorry no photo until I can get back to the car.

[vern hodgson]

Originally Posted by vern hodgson

No photo avail. Looking at berts catalog 2015, pg.6, item a1225s. The description says worn axle housing will affect the brake operation. As the hub rotates the bearing would always be loaded to the top, seem if there were play (vertical) in the axle housing to roller bearing the wheel would move about the axle in a concentric pattern as opposed to a circular pattern. I have not removed the hub as yet (no puller) but in grasping the axle I can move the hub and roller bearing up and down, so looking at berts catalog, it seems that the part 1224 is what I need. If so, can this be done on the car or must the rear end be removed? Any one have experience with this? I have not found a good diagram of how this all goes together. Hope this explains all this

Actually I think I mean eccentric pattern

[Tom Wesenberg]

Pictures would help top determine that you have a Model A rear end rather than some later one, but the hub and drum must be held together by swaging the 5 studs.

The rear end needs to come apart and the axle housing is machined on a lathe to accept the new bearing race. For sure 1/4" is way too much movement.

[vern hodgson]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Pictures would help top determine that you have a Model A rear end rather than some later one, but the hub and drum must be held together by swaging the 5 studs.

The rear end needs to come apart and the axle housing is machined on a lathe to accept the new bearing race. For sure 1/4" is way too much movement.

That's what I was afraid of, ugh.

[vern hodgson]

Originally Posted by captndan

Exactly what my 31 is doing. I'm ordering the axel repair kit. Hope that works.

Have you removed the rear end from the vehicle?

[captndan]

Originally Posted by vern hodgson

Have you removed the rear end from the vehicle?

No I have not. I don't see any reason to do so. I'll have the new sleeve and bearing in a couple days. Look at Les Andrews book.

[Russ/40]

For clarification: There are two repair possibilities. One is for the bearing surface on the housing, which requires removal of the housing. The other is for the hub. When the hub bearing surface is worn, a sleeve is installed inside the hub and a smaller OD bearing with the same ID as the original replaces the original bearing. Usually one or the other repair is needed, sometimes both. If I was going to remove the housing, I would go ahead and buy a new hub, instead of the hub repair.

[vern hodgson]

Originally Posted by captndan

No I have not. I don't see any reason to do so. I'll have the new sleeve and bearing in a couple days. Look at Les Andrews book.

Do you envision it as a drive in sleeve? Is your housing worn or can you tell? How much play was in your bearing?