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Old 03-11-2013, 07:10 AM   #1
peter ryan
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Hi there i am new and from Australia, i need a couple of answers please. My mate and i are trying to get a distributer and the head out of a Model A and we are having trouble removing them, any ideas will be welcome dissy seams to be stuck in tight and we have pushed a scrapper into most of the head gasket.
Thanks in advance, regards Peter
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:21 AM   #2
Ross/Kzoo
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Welcome to FB.

Go to the "Search this Forum" on the main Model A page and type in "stuck distributor" and there you see many responses.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:26 AM   #3
Mitch//pa
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welcome
you can try cranking the engine over with the spark plugs in and the compression will sometimes loosen the head. the head can come off with the dist and then you can usually tap the dist out from the bottom with head on bench. also make sure you loosened the dist hold down nut and set screw
there are tools available also for removing the head and dist from the suppliers and be careful the dist breaks easily...
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:15 AM   #4
dave in australia
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I'd follow Mitch's method. Plugs in, remove head nuts. and wind over without turning ignition on. The problem with using a metal scraper is that you can scar the deck or the head without realising it until it's too late. I've used wood wedges on engines that are sitting under the bench with success as well. Also try some penetrene or mouse milk around the studs the day before to help free things up. Try a hot air gun on the head near the distributer after applying some penetrating fluid.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #5
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I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs and head nuts put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?

Last edited by foxfire42; 03-12-2013 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:57 AM   #6
Al 29Tudor
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Welcome to the Barn. It is a great site.
I'm new at this as well but when I had to remove my head, I backed off all the head nuts several turns. Then I tapped all the nuts all the way around several times in every direction to loosen any junk and rust between the stud and the head. Once the head was loose from block it was not too difficult to work the head off the studs.
Al
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #7
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Using one of these will help lift the head loose without prying with anything that will tend to damage the head or block surface. If it is still "stuck" when the head and block are separated, at least there is enough space between them to put a block of wood under there to help assist in lifting it off the rusty stuck bolts.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:29 AM   #8
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If the engine will run, put the nuts back on but leave loose like about 1/16 inch and start the engine . Of course drain it first. Start the motor, it will stop when the head pops loose. If it keeps running don't over heat it and try something different. If you are taking the studs out take your time if they seem tight. Penetrating oil, a small hammer, paraffin and heat can be your friend.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxfire42 View Post
I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?
Good way to bend a rod.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:24 AM   #10
pat in Santa Cruz
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some heads come off easily, and some are so difficult the head needs to be cut up to get it off. Fortunately, the latter solution is extremely rare. In 42 years of working on A's, I've seen two instances of that. It sounds like yours is a fairly typical tough spot. A head puller will serve you best, either the one pictured above or the one Gord makes. Search the archives or the sticky thread for head pullers and you will find their contact info.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:28 AM   #11
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I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?
This is the method I've always used (in 50 years) to loosen tight heads, with no adverse affects. I respect James Rogers's experience and advice, though.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:13 PM   #12
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I recently heard about the rope trick from an old timer mechanic. I was told that after removing the plugs put some rope into the cylinders then turn the engine over. Can anyone add to this? Any negatives?

Negative,is it's a good way to bend a rod. If you do it that way to careful and do not use the starter. I know some have done it that way, but if it is stuck hard and you use the starter, good by rod.

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Old 03-11-2013, 05:08 PM   #13
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We have a guy in our club who welded chain to two spark plugs, screwed them in the head and lifted with a hoist. He had the front of the car lifted off the ground and the head didn't budge. Not sure how he managed to finally get it loose.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:32 PM   #14
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We have a guy in our club who welded chain to two spark plugs, screwed them in the head and lifted with a hoist. He had the front of the car lifted off the ground and the head didn't budge. Not sure how he managed to finally get it loose.
My first head removal years ago was exactly the same thing. With the front in the air overnight it still wasn't coming loose. I had to put a thin edge on a chisel and keep tapping all around the gasket. Someone way back when had use shellac on both sides of the gasket.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:20 AM   #15
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Default Re: peter ryan

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We have a guy in our club who welded chain to two spark plugs, screwed them in the head and lifted with a hoist. He had the front of the car lifted off the ground and the head didn't budge. Not sure how he managed to finally get it loose.
With tension on the head soak the studs and gently head the head, the next morning the head was loose, it worked for me.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by dave in australia View Post
I'd follow Mitch's method. Plugs in, remove head nuts. and wind over without turning ignition on. The problem with using a metal scraper is that you can scar the deck or the head without realising it until it's too late. I've used wood wedges on engines that are sitting under the bench with success as well. Also try some penetrene or mouse milk around the studs the day before to help free things up. Try a hot air gun on the head near the distributer after applying some penetrating fluid.
What's mouse milk?
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:53 AM   #17
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What's mouse milk?
Penetrating Oil
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:04 PM   #18
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Penetrating Oil
Must take a lot of mice.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:24 PM   #19
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Must take a lot of mice.
That milking machine is something to see!
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:29 PM   #20
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Peter time to try a "Gord's easy Head Puller" 100% history of head removal Made in Canada Try one
Have a Great Day Gord. B by the Bay gbaverstsock@bmts.com
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