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Old 10-28-2018, 08:21 AM   #21
hazelhoff
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Default Re: Weard leaks

J.Franklin, maybe you are right. I filled her up with clear water and there are only two small leaks left, front right. So i will follow your advice and retorque the head first.
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:13 AM   #22
30 Closed Cab PU
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Default Re: Weard leaks

If after the retorque and still uncomfortable or still leaking, perhaps contact Bardalls or a distributor of Bardalls and ask their opinions. ask if it should be flushed out, if yes ask about proper flushing. If using white vinegar or something caustic a final flush of distilled water/baking soda to neutralize .




And/or contact a Model A restoration shop or motor rebuilder withsame questions.
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:39 AM   #23
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Default Re: Weard leaks

After re-torquing the head, start the engine and go through at least warming it up and see if the radiator is plugged. I would be more concerned with that than degradation of the copper head-gasket. The Bardahl may now be a lump in the system somewhere. What was the thinking in putting the engine together and then not finishing by running and torquing a few time? That is a procedure I have not been informed of yet. May have merit, but I fail to see any logic there. Perhaps we can all learn.
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:32 AM   #24
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Default Re: Weard leaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by J Franklin View Post
Why do you think the gasket is bad? I am saying do not remove the head until you have a running engine and know you need to change the gasket. At least 2-3 heat/cool/re-torque cycles.
"
#9 hazelhoff
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Re: Weard leaks
1crosscut,
You are right. not intended for permanent usage. Too bad there were no instructions on how to apply. Dutch description make it look like you can leave this stuff in.
This stuff seems to be very agressive. I drained the sysstem and will have to put a new headgasket in.
----------------------------------


He seems to think the Bardalls is active/aggresive, and is concerned about it slowly causing damage that will show up in the future. One of the reasons I suggested calling a distributor or Bardalls.
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Old 10-28-2018, 11:22 AM   #25
100IH
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Default Re: Weard leaks

As others have said; Heat is an essential part of the head gasket job. Heat and cooling cycles. Not just warm, Hot, then re -torque after cooling. After this process, then you can judge the job technique and materials.
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:46 AM   #26
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Default Re: Weard leaks

Run the engine, get it good and warm! Turn if off, let it cool and re-torque the head. This is done by loosening and re-tightening the head bolts. For the bolt by the distributor, use a crows foot to save having to pull the distributor. Let us know how this goes!
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:57 PM   #27
hazelhoff
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Default Re: Weard leaks

Once more an update, the gasket is leaking all over the place again when filling up. Today I removed the head. Water all over the place ! Even one cylinder was attacked !
The Dutch product description basically says you should leave the Bardahl in. The American product instructions say you have to drain it after running for 15 minutes.
Believe me, Bardahl eats your head gasket ! Spefically the asbestos. It is dangerous to your system !
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Old 12-15-2019, 09:52 AM   #28
hazelhoff
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Default Re: Weard leaks

So, you guys think it is OK for the head gasket to leak some drops of water after installation ? Will it end after a few runs/retorques ?
Do you want to apply some locktite sealant extra to the standard copper gasket around the water holes ?
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:54 AM   #29
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Default Re: Weard leaks

I have found that when using a copper gasket, if you use a liberal application of Permatex Copper Spray, you will not have any weeping of coolant, either from studs or from the edge of the gasket. This does not mean you can skip the required re-torque sequence. The mess you get glueing the gasket to head and block surfaces when using composite gaskets is a non-issue with copper gaskets.
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Old 12-15-2019, 12:12 PM   #30
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Default Re: Weard leaks

I don't think that it should leak after installation of new head gasket.

Everyone seems to have a different way of going about installing a new head gasket. If you are putting in new studs check each one to see if it goes into the water jacket. I put a bit of Indian Head shellac on the threads going into the block on each stud.
I use two light coats of copper coat spray on the copper head gaskets allowing the solvents to flash off between coats. Install the head while the gasket is still a bit tacky.
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Old 12-15-2019, 03:48 PM   #31
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Default Re: Weard leaks

Have you milled the cylinder head? Most used heads I have found are not flat and need to be milled. This could cause your leaks.
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Old 12-16-2019, 06:43 AM   #32
hazelhoff
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Default Re: Weard leaks

Yes, the block and the head were milled !
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Old 12-16-2019, 08:08 AM   #33
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Default Re: Weard leaks

If it is only seeping through the filler material in the gasket you can put in some stop leak like others have said. If the gasket isn't hemmed on either end there's always a chance coolant will seep through.
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:19 PM   #34
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Default Re: Weard leaks

Mine Gott. Why did you put in this additive in the first place - Leaking? now leaking still so it is the additive. I am sure no stop leak that has been around for 50 - 70 years eats head gaskets. When you pulled the head, why did you not drain the coolant first. Did you study the old gasket for signs of damage or failure. What were the results? The old gasket might indicate problems in the surfaces that still exist. Non hardening sealers are OK around the studs threads and the gasket holes but not locktite.
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