1936 floorboard screws

[50droptop]

Does anyone know of a source for these screws and washers? They are for securing the wooden floorboard. They have the ends machined down to help alignment/starting. Also, they’re different from the wood floor support screws. I’ve checked McMaster with no luck. I’m one floorboard set short.

[Bob C]

Maybe here. https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/ford...hp?number=3141


https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=3141

[rustythumb]

bob is out of stock- what a shock!

[Kerk]

Call Joe's Antique auto parts. Has them in stock! tel.#508 278-3980
Ux bridge Ma will ship same day! Kerk. Sorry do not have catalogwith the 800 Handy .. Kerk

[50droptop]

Originally Posted by Kerk

Call Joe's Antique auto parts. Has them in stock! tel.#508 278-3980
Ux bridge Ma will ship same day! Kerk. Sorry do not have catalogwith the 800 Handy .. Kerk

I’ll give them a call in the morning.

Thanks again all for the info!!!

[Ray in La Mesa]

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They look the same as Model A screws, might try Model A suppliers.

[DavidG]

Through '32 models they were 12-24 screws, starting with the '33s they were increased to 1/4-20.

[TJ]

The 1/4X20s can be found at a local Ace Hardware store. They won't be the black finish, but they do the job and are hidden under the floor mat. Some Ace stores also carry the recessed washers.

[deuce lover]

TJ is correct.Ace has them- zinc plated.

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Through '32 models they were 12-24 screws, starting with the '33s they were increased to 1/4-20.

my 36 pickup is 12-24

[50droptop]

These are 1/4-20. I’m back home on Monday and will check out the local Ace Hardware. Also putting together an order for Joe’s Antique Auto....they’re on my list in case the Ace route falls through.

[FrankWest]

are the correct screws flat heads or dome heads?

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by TJ

The 1/4X20s can be found at a local Ace Hardware store. They won't be the black finish, but they do the job and are hidden under the floor mat. Some Ace stores also carry the recessed washers.

just a a dab of black flat paint.

[50droptop]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

are the correct screws flat heads or dome heads?

Mine were domed head.

[FrankWest]

I should say oval head.
I was able to purchase slotted oval head counter sunk 1/4 20 stainless steel. on ebay.
Nice screws, but won't take gun bluing and have to paint. But that is ok, at least they look authentic. My car has mostly oval head, black, but need a few extra, car vendors only sell flat head? I think the originals are oval head? but maybe the manufacturer used flat head too? Don't know. Tried looking up in the green book, but still are looking. To bad they don;t have an index labeled Floor. Maybe I am getting too old?

[Don Rogers]

The screws were flat head machine screws. When properly installed with counter sink washers they are flush with the floor.

[DavidG]

I second Don's comments. Oval head screws make no sense as they would only create high spots on the floor mat which would lead to premature wear through.

[RKS.PA]

Originally Posted by Don Rogers

The screws were flat head machine screws. When properly installed with counter sink washers they are flush with the floor.

Counter sink washers are essential to keep the wood from splitting under pressure. Made my own replacement set of boards.....easy and much cheaper than from Mac's. Used the old ones as patterns for my '39.

[50droptop]

Just to clarify how my ‘36 was when I disassembled it. The screws that held the wooden floorboard supports were indeed flat head screws with counter sink washers. However, the screws that held the wooden floorboards (driver and passenger side) on either side of the transmission cover were oval head with countersunk washers. I don’t disagree that the oval head would sit up slightly higher under the front mat, and could possibly lead to premature wear, but this is how that car was assembled. Due to the similarities of these bolts to other Ford bolts (bottom threads smoothed to aid alignment-can be seen in the photo posted) and their consistent use on both floorboard sides; I have every reason to believe these are the original bolts Ford used in this application.

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by 50droptop

Just to clarify how my ‘36 was when I disassembled it... but this is how that car was assembled... I have every reason to believe these are the original bolts Ford used in this application.

Hi Everyone, This is gonna sound snarky, sorry.

50droptop, a person can believe what they choose.

For example I believe that with very few exceptions over eight decades every vehicle has been tampered with to deviate from the condition when it was originally assembled. Even on the absolutely most original car you can imagine, would you expect it to still have the oil drain plug washer from the factory? Maybe that's a bad example but it starts the thought process.

In the nine years I've been a member I've read many accounts here on FordBarn of owners believing that because something was on the car when they got it, it must have been on there from the moment it was built.

One real life example: I judged cars for originality/correctness at an event over ten years ago. A '35 Sedan owner, I'd guess about 70 years old who could trace the ownership of the vehicle from new within his family, had a lot of difficulty being told his steering wheel was not of the type that would have been on the car new. "Uncle would never have changed that." And "It's always been on there." Were his thoughts.

But I believe it's a physical impossibility for him to have knowledge of every incident in the time that passes from when the car was assembled to today.

Then again, the judges could have been wrong, or the car could have actually been assembled with pieces different than the typical example.

The bottom line is it's your car and to me that means you have every right to make it in a way that pleases you.

Adding: But Don Rogers and DavigG's information is literally good enough to bet the farm on. Those two have over 100 years combined experience with the vehicles. Each one has spent weeks researching the archives for the actual, factual, information.

[FrankWest]

The flat head screws for the floor sound right enough because flat is what a floor should be. I had a mixture of flat and oval head on my floor. There is one interesting detail on the extreme right lower screw hole. There is one FLAT head screw that is permanently rusted in place. Perhaps this one is an original factory installed, that could never be removed As the two prestigious gentleman stated...Makes good sense to use flat head screw on the floor.

[Don Rogers]

One further note regarding floorboard screws........Ford Pickups/Panel Deliveries/full size trucks in 1935 and 1936 used 12-24 flat head machine screws and recessed washers to hold the floorboards in place. Passenger cars, during this time period, used 1/4-20 flat head screws and washers.

The 12-24 Flat head screws came in two lengths...(8) 24696-S2 1" to hold floorboard #1 in place and (10) 24704-S2 1 1/8" to hold floorboard #2 in place.

The (8) 1/4-20 screws were 1 1/4" long and held the left and right passenger floorboards in place.

[DavidG]

The truck/passenger-car difference in thread size was obviously not something done with simplifying the job on the assembly line in mind.

[tubman]

This is an excellent reason why I don't care to have my cars "judged".

Just drive 'em and enjoy them.

[VeryTangled]

As for me, I drive too. Judging bums me out most of the time. Just put 2K miles on my 35 beater.


Edit: Still I prefer to use correct fasteners. I have to replace a couple of hundred on my car thanks to the previous owner and his shops.

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by VeryTangled

As for me, I drive too. Judging bums me out most of the time. Just put 2K miles on my 35 beater.

I drove my '51 500 miles round trip to go to my 59th high school class reunion last month. The car performed great, but none of my classmates noticed it. I guess all of the car guys died. I thought I would be a hit, showing up in the same kind of car I was driving to school in 1959, but nobody cared. I did, however, get great satisfaction by doing it.

[DavidG]

How did a simple question about the head configuration of a screw turn into a question about the virtues or lack thereof of authenticity?

[tubman]

"To each his own."

[Tinker]

Bought mine from Roy. Not sure the fordbolts situation as of late.

[tiger.1000]

David...ANSWER to your question....too much weak beer !

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by tubman

I drove my '51 500 miles round trip to go to my 59th high school class reunion last month. The car performed great, but none of my classmates noticed it. I guess all of the car guys died. I thought I would be a hit, showing up in the same kind of car I was driving to school in 1959, but nobody cared. I did, however, get great satisfaction by doing it.

Last week end someone was visiting someone in my cul de sac and driving his new Hummer around. I was going to drive my 1933 ford around to "impress" him. But then I realized that he probably would not even care about seeing my car, so I kept my car in the garage. Enjoy you car and forget what others think.
Several years ago, I had a young man tell me that he wouldn't watch any movies made before 1980. crazy world.. Old is bad...New is good.

[Don Rogers]

David, Here's another oddity...The speedometer cable to firewall(dash) clip on 1935/36 passenger cars is held in place by a 1/4"-20 x 1 round head machine screw (26547-S2). But the same clip on pickups and panel deliveries is held in place by a 12-24 x 1" round head screw (26547-S2). I know this because I tried in vain to force a 1/4" screw into the 12-24 clinch nut hole in my 35 panel delivery firewall.

[FrankWest]

Question...
My green book has pictures of screws in the back of the book.
They have listing of screws used...
I don't even see 1/4 20 1.25 screws listed? I see 1/4 20 .75 these are used for transmission floor cover, right.
Are these green parts books limited?

[Don Rogers]

Frank, By the time the green bible was published 12+ years after 1935/36, a lot of the special fastners were either obsoleted or superseded by more common "fits-all" fastners.

If you look at fastener listings closer to the 35-36 time frame, you will see these screws listed.

[FrankWest]

Thanks

[FrankWest]

thanks

[DavidG]

For those with pre-WWII Fords who are interested in the original details, like Don, Kube, Michael, myself, and others, the green book, published in 1948, is the last place we look for reliable information regarding how those cars and trucks were put together. Reprints and originals of the pre-WWII chassis and body parts catalogues are readily available at reasonable prices with only one exception (the 1933 catalogs are extremely rare in original form and were never reproduced) and even in that instance the catalogues of the 1934 model year include the information covering the '33s.

[FrankWest]

Thanks

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by tubman

"To each his own."

And yes of couse it's "to each his own" as you always seem to wind up saying here on most of these debate type posts. It's not always about being correct for judging purposes. For me, It's about keeping my cars as correct as possible regardless of what the judges say, and I totally love driving my cars. Just drove 1448 miles to and from a great EFV8 Club Central National Meet in Auburn, Indiana, and my 35 fordor odometer now reads 74,900 original miles, of which I have driven it 33,900 of those miles in the last 7 to 8 years.

Regarding the original post, every original 35 Ford that I own now, or have owned in the past, has/had flat head screws with countersunk washers holding the floor boards in place, including those on either side of the sheet metal transmission cover.

[FrankWest]

Thanks, it makes good sense that flat head screws are used on a flat service. My 1933 had a mixture of flat head and oval head, they all look very old. I wonder if oval head 1/4 20 1.25 screws were originally used somewhere else on the vehicle and some were mistakenly dropped into the flat head screw bucket? Either way, Flat head is the way to go. I too have no intention of showing my car but just want it to be as close to original as possible, except I installed a brass tim gear after my original composite one was shreaded

[rottenron36]

I have the same screws as pictured, and a 36 pickup. They are too big, my floor is stock.

[DavidG]

Go back and re-read post #22 and you will note that certain '35-'36 commercial vehicles used #12 screws, not the 1/4" screws used on passenger cars.

[rottenron36]

Thanks, 12-24